How to Create Flattering Proportions with Jackets and Outerwear

I’ve written many posts on jackets and coats over the years, and I’m sure I will add more over time. After all, jackets are fab, and some styles have a high longevity quotient. Here’s a summary of the posts to date all in one place for easy access. 

Fit & Proportion

As with most clothing these days, you need to assess items across three different fit categories: body con, tailored and oversized. Believe it or not, but body con jackets do exist! Body con coats do not make sense, so I’d stick to tailored or oversized fits for outerwear. Remember to shop across petite, regular and tall departments to achieve perfect fit, and be sure to do the sit-down tests before making a purchase.

Here are guidelines on how to fit a tailored jacket. Once you have a handle on the basics of tailored jackets, you will find it easier to assess body con and oversized jackets too. Boyfriend jackets are generally oversized, and here are guidelines on how to fit that silhouette. Trapeze jackets are a different animal and require their own set of fit guidelines.

Sometimes jackets will not button up without pulling across the bust and midsection, but will fit perfectly everywhere else. That’s not always a deal-breaker in my book. We wear jackets unbuttoned most of the time so leaving it unbuttoned to create a great fit is a reasonable solution. Of course, outerwear MUST fit correctly when buttoned up because you are braving the elements and need insulation. Here are guidelines on how to fit coats, puffer coats, and capes

If you find woven jackets uncomfortable and constricting, opt for a style with stretch. These days you can find most styles of jacket — from classic blazers to denim — with ample stretch. If that still does not satisfy your needs for comfort, opt for knitted jackets in Ponte knits, jersey and fleece. They are particularly fab for a full bust. Sweater coats are another option, and here’s how to select a flattering style. An oversized woven coat, especially in a cocoon style, is another way to prevent that “straightjacket”  feeling. 

Silhouettes & Styling 

Fur jackets, faux fur jackets and trapeze jackets are retro and therefore always in style. I consider a moto or biker jacket to be an iconic classic, and therefore also always in style. Jackets with strong shoulders seem to waft in and out of fashion. That said, I think we might be at the point where they have become a perennial fringe trend. 

I believe that the right leather jacket is completely appropriate in some office settings. Striped jackets have become a mainstream look and here are tips on how to style them. Cropped jackets are available every year and look particularly great with skirts and dresses. Denim jackets worn over a skirt or dress look fabulous when they are snug and short. Bomber jackets are the new rage and my guess is that they are here to stay as a mainstream staple. And here are five ways to style a vest, which is essentially a sleeveless jacket.  

Trench coats are another iconic classic. They do not need to be beige, Burberry and double-breasted. Trenches come in all sorts of styles, colours, fabrics and lengths, so choose a look that works best for you. I have three that I’ve had for years and still wear regularly. Single-breasted coats and trenches tend to be more versatile, look great worn open, and flatter a full bust. That said, these days, it’s fashionable to wear double-breasted coats, trenches and jackets open, but the method works better with beltless styles. And double-breasted button positioning tends to look more flattering, especially on a full bust, when the buttons are positioned more closely together

Lots to digest! If there are further fit, proportion and styling challenges regarding jackets and outerwear, post them in the comments section and let’s get them sorted.

Link Love: A Jacket for Life

“My grandfather had just five jackets in his whole life, but those were holy jackets. So he looked after those jackets like sons.” I loved this quote from the J.Crew short film about the Vitale Barberis Canonico Mill, where fabrics for their Ludlow suit are produced. A sweet ode to suits, dressing up, and good-quality fabrics.

In Chanel’s latest digital film we hear Mademoiselle Coco explain the concept behind the timeless Chanel jacket: she wanted to “enable women to move with ease, and not change their attitude or manner, depending on their dress”. Quite a revolutionary idea in 1954!

Fab Links from Our Members

Marlene1 was intrigued by these ads from a 2006 Gap campaign over at Coffee Stained Cashmere. Would you wear these looks today?

For the creative types among us, how about making our own clothes, shoes and accessories out of food, asks Karie. I’ll take the German chocolate bubble dress, pretty please.

Kat at Corporette talks about how to look professional in flats. Angie thinks she nailed it and obviously, fully supports looking fabulous in flats!

If anyone still has doubts about whether or not it’s worthwhile to tailor a garment, Gaylene thinks the pictures in Sally’s post should provide the definite answer.

Annagybe points us to this article about Native American fashion that is truly authentic.

Missey is exploring colour theory to come up with new clothing combinations for her existing wardrobe, and is feeling inspired by the Pantone Spring 2013 colour guides from Brandi.

Last but not least, Vildy enjoyed this Guardian interview with Pedro Matos, the Darfur Sartorialist, in which he talks about his life as a street photographer in Darfur. 

Wear Relaxed Banded Tops over Full Skirts

Wearing relaxed tops with full skirts is one of my favourite outfit combinations at the moment because the proportions feel fresh, modern and new. My clients are generally excited about the look because it’s comfortable and easy to put together. A looser top also dresses down a full skirt, which makes it more versatile. 

The photos below show an assortment of relaxed untucked tops worn with full skirts. The crucial part of the top styling is its banded bottom. That’s the part that creates outfit structure because it reins in the volume of the top and the flare of the skirt. This tiny bit of structure hints at a waistline, which makes the outfit flattering to my eye. The banded top also allows for easy semi-tucking.

The tops here are standard length, and pulled up a bit to create a shorter effect over the skirt. Their soft drape does help create additional structure, as does scrunching a long sleeve. The necklines are crew, but scooped, boat and V-necklines also work. 

Although most of these skirts are above the knee, the relaxed banded top concept works for longer skirts too. Relaxed tops that are not banded will work with full skirts when they are cropped. The much shorter length highlights the waist thereby adding structure to the outfit. 

While I still love the classic combination of a formfitting top tucked into a full skirt, I haven’t sported it for a while. I’m all over these new proportions this year, and will wear them until it’s time for a change. How about you? Do you like to wear a relaxed top over a full skirt. If you haven’t tried the combination yet, does it appeal to you? Or do you find it frumpy and juvenile?

Lightweight Washed Chambray SkirtCollection Box-pleated Skirt In Circle Jacquard

Eyelet Trail SkirtReversible Ruffled Mesh and Taffeta Circle SkirtPleated Cotton Blend Jersey-Mini-Skirt

Flared SkirtFlowing Mid-Length Skirt

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Roundups

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Nordstrom Roundup: 15 Fab Frocks

Dresses with sleeves and ample length are in a perpetual shortage, and good fit is another challenge. That said, not all hope is lost. My clients have been purchasing dresses this year and here are some of the favourites. 

  1. Tadashi Shoji Sleeveless Mesh Stripe Jersey Dress: If I needed a sleeveless black dress right now, this would be it. So, so, so romantic. I LOVE the flare and sheer panels. Perfectly alluring and covered at the same time. The fabric is thick and gorgeous. Wear a lacey black bra for acceptable bra strap coverage, or stick to a strapless bra. My client looked so much better than the model in this dress, and took my breath away. 
  2. Tadashi Shoji Mesh Stripe Fit & Flare Dress: This is the sleeved version of the above dress. Thanks, Tadashi. 
  3. Adrianna Papell V-Neck Shutter Pleat Sheath Dress: Gorgeous! Hides lumpage and bumpage, and isn’t too short. Fitted, yet not too body con. Comes in four colours and black.
  4. Adrianna Papell Print Asymmetrical Chiffon Dress: I much preferred this frock sans the belt, so size down and have a ball at the buffet table. Very forgiving, pretty neckline, and fab asymmetrical cut. 
  5. Suzi Chin for Maggy Boutique Sleeveless Fit & Flare Dress: Hello Grecian Goddess. It looks best on those who can fill out the bust line. The front hangs a little low, but a lace insert does the trick. It moves gracefully and keeps you cool on a scorching day. 
  6. Donna Morgan Print Jersey Shift Dress: Pull on and go with a pair of metallic flats or sandals. Easy. 
  7. Eliza J Pleated Print Dress: A romantic tea length dress. Remember that you can swap out the bowed belt if that’s not your cup of tea. 
  8. Maggy London Print Blouson Jersey Dress: Fab blouson dresses are hard to find because the fit is tricky. This one, although short, is quite flattering. 
  9. Isaac Mizrahi Stripe Fit & Flare Dress: A classic Summer striped frock. Love the diagonal lines on the skirt. 
  10. Suzi Chin Print Faux Wrap Dress: An abstract floral wrap that is begging for a curvy lass with a full bust to fill it out. Nice length too. 
  11. Tahari Pleated Print Twill Dress: I love this dress. It’s pretty, practical, retro, and flared. I’d swap out the belt and wear it with pointy toe flats. 
  12. Suzi Chin Print Sheath Dress: I’m not particularly fond of this type of grown-on sleeve, because I find a more cut away sleeveless bodice more flattering. But many of my clients do like a grown-on sleeve and this dress has a good fit. A happy Summer floral.
  13. Maggy London ‘Galaxy’ Print Sheath Dress: Here is the same cut in a galaxy print. 
  14. Eliza J Side Three Quarter Sleeve Drape Jersey Dress: Imagine a black bomber jacket over this dress. Sensational. 
  15. Eliza J Print Shift Dress: A sack dress that’s breezy and showcases your gams. I’d be all over it if it were a few inches longer.

Think denim jackets, motos, cropped blazers, bombers, vests and trench coats as layers over dresses if you’re after extra coverage. Cardigans are not your only option.

Sleeveless Mesh Stripe Jersey DressPrint Jersey Shift DressPleated Print DressPrint Blouson Jersey DressStripe Fit & Flare DressPrint Faux Wrap Dress

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Shop Express for Affordable Corporate Wear

Whenever I have a client who is on a tight budget and is starting their corporate or business casual wardrobe from scratch, we head straight to Express. In fact, regardless of budget, they are a great destination for business casual wear, business formal wear, modern classic trousers, tailored jackets, or suits for women of all ages. It’s hard to believe that a junior store that stocks skimpy club wear also makes good corporate wear, but there you have it. For the price, the fabrications, cut, drape, quality and longevity of these items cannot be beat. It’s great value. 

Express generally makes two cuts of corporate trousers, namely the “Editor” and the “Columnist“. Editors are usually suited to a curvier figure because they are roomier all over. They have a great wide waistband, mid-length rise, and the fabrics are thick. This makes them drape so well. If necessary, a waist adjustment is a small price to pay. Columnists are cut slimmer and straighter and usually suited to a less curvy body type. The waistbands are narrower and the fabric less thick. Both trouser styles have stretch, are available in short, regular and long lengths, and across many colours. The odd pinstripe and check too. They cover sizes 00 to 14, and are machine washable. They run pretty true to size, but smaller than corporate wear from Ann Taylor. The pants retail for $59 to $79, but you can often get them on sale. They were 40% off last week and my client came home with three pairs of Editors. 

Warning: The Editors and Columnists are available in a variety of fabrications and colours. Although the cuts are pretty consistent across the board, I’ve found that different fabrications can slightly alter the fit. 

Once you’ve sorted out which pants fit best, you can find jackets in the same fabric, and occasionally a pencil skirt. And while you’re at Express, you might want to try their Essential Shirts if you’re after a very tailored fit. One caveat: I’ve found that their shirts are not so fab on a full busted figure. 

If you’re doing an interview loop and you don’t have a suit, check out Express. My only wish is that they covered plus sizes. Hopefully they will at some point in the future.