My rants are minimal because it was particularly easy to find stylish, flattering options for myself and my clients this season. Perhaps mainstream retail collections are improving. This came through in one of the comments about yesterday’s post on my raves for Spring and Summer 2009:

“It seems right now there is a return to flattering clothing for all shapes. I see this in a lot of your list items, and I’ve been very glad about it, as evidenced by my AmEx bill”.

But I can always muster up a few complaints because there is no such thing as a perfect retail season. It’s impossible to please everyone.

Here are my general rants:

• A weak start to the season: Clothing product mixes weren’t overly compelling despite their superb pricing structures. But I feel that fashion got more exciting as we hit mid season.
• Another poor footwear collection: I’m tired of seeing 4 to 5 inch heels as the fashion norm (sorry to sound like a broken record). We’re entering our fourth year of having little choice when it comes to heel heights. Heels this season were once again either super flat or sky scrapingly high. Not so fab seeing as a good footwear season is about ample variety. Bring back comfortable and fashionable lower heeled shoes. PLEASE. It can’t be that hard!
• Sleeve length frustrations: The industry’s obsession with cap sleeves was disappointing. I’m glad we’re moving into a cool weather season where I hope to see plenty of elbow and long sleeved tops and jackets.

More specifically:

• Casual maxi dresses: I have not had a change of heart on this one. Ankle length,  casual frocks worn with flat sandals do not make it through my filter. They look like nighties. But as I’ve said before, I won’t hold it against you if you love the look.
• Some harem pants: The styles with super sagging low crotches look unattractive, but I’ve got my head around the styles with regular crotch lengths.
• Leg shortening ankle-length pants: Pants that end somewhere between the end of the calf and ankle bone are desperately unflattering UNLESS they’re extremely tapered and sleek at the hems like skinnies or leggings AND worn with high, high heels. The reason the latter works is because heels and the tapered effect of a silhouette visually raise the length of the hemline, elongating your look.
• Jumpsuits: I’m not as wildly opposed to this style as I am to the first three, but I’m generally not a fan. Loo practicalities aside, there’s something too matchy-matchy and pajama-like about the top and bottom part of an outfit in identical fabric, especially if it’s in a knit. Just not my cup of tea.

Missed opportunities:

• Cropped elbow length V-neck cardigans: There seemed to be a shortage of universally flattering V-neck cardigans this season. Loads of cru-neck availability, but few V-neck. I wonder why.
• Higher rise jeans: The situation is improving but it’s still not enough, especially in the premium denim category. Let’s hope Autumn is better.

Bring on the rants for Spring and Summer 2009 ladies and don’t hold back. We’re putting this topic to rest today. What have I missed and do your rants differ to mine?

The pictures speak for themselves. I won’t be surprised if these silhouettes trend again next season, which means I’ll rant about them all over again.

If you live in the Northern hemisphere you’ve seen the last of the warm weather collections for 2009. Even as many of us fight through a heat wave, retail stores are about to stock up on Autumn and Winter merchandise. Absurd I know, but that’s the nature of the crazy retail cycle.

You know the drill. YLF closes every retail season with a “best and worst”. Raves today, rants tomorrow. I would also like to hear your closing thoughts on the last six months of fashion.

Here are my general raves:

• Superb recessionary pricing structure: In all my retail years, I’ve never seen a fashion season as heavily discounted as this one. So many bargains!
• Brilliant accessory selections: Accessories are the fasted and cheapest way to inject a bit of new into an existing wardrobe. Scarves, bracelets, belts, handbags, hose, headbands, watches, wallets, hats, pins, necklaces and earrings have been particularly strong this year. What a clever retail reaction to our tough economic climate.
• Delicious 80’s revival of fashion: Designers have taken inspiration from “the decade of anti-fashion” and made it killer. I’m blown away with how creatively and successfully the best of 80’s styling has been re-interpreted.

More specifically:

• Dresses and tunics: Stores have generally shown an excellent assortment if you were prepared to dry clean, hand wash and wear sleeveless. I’ve managed to do major frock and tunic shopping with clients this season, which is not the norm.
• Leggings: We’ve seen the best selection of leggings ever: zippered, studded, ruched, embossed and stirrup styles in all sorts of fabrications, colours and leg lengths. The perfect accessory to dresses and tunics and a totally fabulous look.
• Biker inspired styles: Tough edge fashion looks continue to trend and they are close to my heart. The huge assortment of both subtle and overt motorcycle detailing on all sorts of wardrobe items has been inspiring. Something for everyone.
• Boyfriend items: I’m not drawn to boyfriend jeans, but enjoyed boyfriend-inspired items like cardis, jackets, watches and shirts. I got a nostalgic kick out of the shoulder pad trend in boyfriend blazers and hope to find a version that works for me.
• Volume: Banded tops, sack dresses and cascading cardigans have been winning waist-less pieces. They are an excellent way to camouflage muffin top and add a fun, arty element to your look.
• Silver grey: This has been the season for grey. As popular as black and white, I’ve enjoyed seeing grey function as another versatile neutral.
• Sea of green, yellow and turquoise: It’s nice to see how this fresh Summer palette has been embraced by retailers and consumers.
• White items: Warm weather is about adding white items to ensembles. With the fab selection of white tops, jeans, dresses, skirts, shoes and accessories, it’s been easy to incorporate an instantly fresh Summery look into your style.
• Gladiators: The sandal of the season has been stellar, making it possible to refresh past season’s outfits with the addition of this single item. Even I managed to get a comfortable pair, which was a tall order.
• Colourful non-patent handbags: Loads of magnificent handbags in matte fabrications and interesting textural tones have made a welcome change to the sea of patent we’ve seen over the last three years.
• Deeper assortment of higher rise jeans: While there is still a shortage of fabulously fitting jeans with higher, girdling rises, stocks have improved. Let’s hope this trend gains momentum next season.

Bring on the raves, ladies. I’m excited to hear your impressions.

The house of Valentino came out with a collection of sculptured handbags that was second to none this season. Just for fun, here are my insanely unaffordable dream handbags that represent the very best of Spring and Summer 2009. Perhaps I’ll find them on eBay one day.

It’s fun and necessary to keep our fashion and style feet moving each season. Kendall Farr puts it well in her new book, “Style Evolution”:

The remixing of silhouettes, retooling of proportions, experimentation with new fabric technology and treatments, new combinations of color, print and texture allow new currents to break through fashion’s surface. This is, of course, why “new” is so much fun – and who wants to stop having fun with clothes at any age?”.

So true. I thoroughly enjoy trying and retrying new trends, remixing existing wardrobe pieces and pushing my fashion envelope. I’d be really bored with my outfits if I didn’t. In some instances the look isn’t completely new, but more of an evolved and often improved version of a look that I’ve sported before. Either way, my style feels refreshed when I dress a little differently each season.

This is how I recharged my look for Spring and Summer 2009:

• Strappy sandals: This sounds absurd because strappy sandals are a common Summer wardrobe staple. But for years I haven’t been able to find a pair of sandals that go the distance AND look fabulous. I found three pairs this year and I adore wearing them with skinnies, leggings and dresses.
• Frocks, frocks and more frocks: Our atypically beautiful Seattle weather has made me more dress focused than ever. I’m particularly into the unstructured sack dress, layering it over leggings and under cascading cardigans or a denim jacket.
• Stirrup leggings and zipper leggings: Controversial, but stirrup and zipper leggings were my hands down favourite looks this season. I feel that I can take on the world in those outfits. I’ve hardly worn my blue jeans and clamdiggers because I’m frock and leggings crazy (but my white bottoms are still in full seasonal swing).
• Silk safari jacket: This earthy style in a muted green is a stretch for my style, but I like the change as long as I can wear it with pearls.
• Neutral shoes: I’ve hardly worn bright shoes this season after being all over the look for years. My red and yellow heels have come out to play a few times, but that’s it.
• Wristlets and day clutches: These were new styles for me to sport during the day and they’ve become my go-to bag this year.
• Micro cross-body bag: After years of suffering from aching neck and shoulders as a result of wearing large cross body bags, the small cross body bag is a pain-free revelation.
• Bracelet: I found one that I loved and it’s been fun opting for a chunky bracelet instead of a necklace.
• Gold hardware: Never thought it would happen, but I’ve started to incorporate the tiniest bit of gold hardware into my clothing and accessory assortment. This is a biggie.
• Raiding Hubby’s wardrobe: After successfully incorporating Greg’s T-shirt and webbing belt into recent outfits, I’m excited to scratch around more on his side of the closet to see what else will work.
• Wayfarers: I am not in the habit of wearing sunglasses, but I’m trying.

Over to you. How did you refresh and evolve your look this season? Are you liking the changes that you made?

This post is earlier than usual because sale fever is ahead of time this year (I attribute that to our tough economic climate). You know the drill, below is a list of must-have items that cuts across all body types, age groups and budgets. It’s a question of finding the right style at the right price, AND, wearing it an appropriate and flattering way that works for you. So no “but”s or “I can’t”s unless you’re vehemently opposed to the aesthetic of the trend. Here we go:

• White bottoms: As the most logical and cost effective Summer bridging piece, white jeans, pants, walk shorts, clamdiggers, skirts or frocks are a no-brainer. If bright optical white is not your thing, try a variation like off-white or cream.
• White items: Think white or cream for tops, jackets, cardigans, camisoles, accessories, footwear, spectacles, sunglasses and watches. It screams “Summer is here”.
• An assortment of cardigans: Tailored V-necks with elbow length sleeves are especially flattering, but unstructured cascading cardigans have their place too. They work well over sleeveless tops, add coverage when needed and are super comfy, versatile, relaxed and practical.
• Day dresses: If you stick to pants and shorts most of the time, challenge yourself to mix it up and wear frocks. It’s the best solution in hot weather.
• Walk shorts and clamdiggers: These are your “go to” Summer jeans or pants.
• Leggings: I’ve tried to encourage adoption of this look and it’s been well received on our forum. I hope you give it a bash.
• Denim jacket: Great in either white, faded or dark denim blue, it’s the perfectly timeless casual cover-up for dress and skirt ensembles.
• Gladiators, or thong sandals: If I can wear this item, anyone can. Gladiators are my edgy preference, but pretty thong sandals are just as fab.
• Metallic shoes: The ideal Summery neutral. Whether it’s wedges, ballet flats or sandals, a metallic ped is flop proof in warm weather.
• Banded tops: Time to give the defined waistline a break and go for something unexpected. The right banded top has worked on all my clients so far. Stretch yourselves if there isn’t one hanging in your closet.

This list is deliberately more daring than last year’s list because it’s good to keep our wardrobes evolving. I’ve left off non-neutral shoes, handbags and accessories, assuming that you already have these covered. Summer is here – let’s get those wardrobes in shape.

If my previous posts weren’t enough to convince you that leggings are fab, here are some more reasons to give them a chance:

• They give short frocks and skirts new life: Leggings rescue items that are a tad too short, making them wearable and current.
• They can go casual or smart: Leggings are generally casual and look superb with flats. But they look just as good with heels and a fancy frock or skirt, thereby adding an interesting and arty dimension to an outfit.
• They are an alternative to jeans and clamdiggers: Choose leggings as an alternative to the casual bottoms that you normally wear.
• They flatter all calf shapes: Surprisingly, leggings add shape to unshapely calves like mine. They also accentuate and streamline a curvier calf. It’s a win.
• They cross all boundaries: They are suitable for all body types when worn correctly. Plenty of ladies in their 40’s, 50’s and 60s are rocking this look with sophistication and sass.

If basic leggings weren’t your cup of tea, perhaps some of the new trends will get you on board. From extra-long, over the heel styling and stirrup detailing, to zipper trims, lace insets, button snaps and self-coloured textured designs. There’s loads of variety in stores at the moment so take your pick.

Be sure to look in both hosiery and clothing sections because you’ll find leggings in both store areas. You will find them in both cotton and nylon. I’m happy with either fabrication, as long as the leggings are thick and offer sufficient coverage.

Some examples of the new detailing. I have recently added a pair with zipper trims to my basic assortment and I’m excited to try the stirrup variety next.

I’m still a fan of Sweet Pea’s top collection. The brand is best known for their mock wrap and empire cut styles, which look good on several body types. The forgiving stretch of the fabric and the ruched integrity of their silhouette folds over curves instead of clinging to them (ideal for camouflaging muffin top). If you can find a pattern that you like, the tops are well worth a try because they’re lightweight and made of durable, non-crease nylon mesh. Easy to launder, flattering to wear and fun for Spring and Summer. A pretty flop-proof solution for us all.

Sweet Pea keeps things fresh by offering plenty of new styles each season. The silhouette that caught my attention was an A-line sleeveless tie-back tunic style. It’s slightly trapeze, pleated under the neck and made of one solid piece (no colour blocked hem borders which cut your long lean line). This style is good on small to medium bust size rectangles, inverted triangles and hourglasses. Loose, cool and forgiving around the midsection. It will even work on some adorable apples and pretty pears if you alter the length.

The neckline is not ideal for large bust lines or short necked lasses (V-necks are better). But don’t give up before trying because you may be surprised at the result. Add a long beaded necklace to this style to draw the eye up and down and emphasize the vertical.

These tops are fab under a cropped cardigan and white jeans, or on their own with clamdiggers. I like how they’re voluminous and tailored at the same time. Makes for a nice change to the multitudes of empire cuts and wrap styles (we need a little break from the defined waist). If these patterns are not to your taste, hang on. Sweet Pea is bound to offer alternatives throughout the season.

Tip: I’ve successfully doctored several Sweet Pea tops because the fabric does not fray. Cut a sleeve or hem to length at home with a pair of sharp scissors and Bob’s your uncle.

This is the second Spring season that I’ve embraced light grey as a neutral and I’m loving it. It’s softer and lighter than black, charcoal, navy and brown and just as versatile. Along with white it’s my favourite neutral for warm weather.

Silver grey sounds blah and boring, but to my surprise its cool and fresh integrity works beautifully. I like it best worn with white and/or a colour (bright or muted). And the white can be in the form of an accessory like a handbag or beaded necklace instead of an article of clothing. If you add black into the mix, be sure to add white at the same time too. This prevents your ensemble from looking and feeling Wintery.

As a fair skinned blonde who looks best in bold, sour colours, I used to think I looked dreadful in a silver grey. But I’ve found that wearing it with oomph through texture and sheen makes all the difference. If I wear light grey on its own, the fabric has to have luster and texture. And If I wear a flat light grey, I have to mix it with white and a bright. So it just goes to show that you cannot see colours in isolation. Wearing a so called dull colour in the right way can be flattering.

Flat silver grey brought to life when worn with white and a bright. If you wear muted colours better than brights, opt for that combination instead.

Textured silver grey items: a subtle herringbone on a waistcoat, sheen and ruching detail on an anorak and colourful embellishment on a silk blouse. All of these items are once again shown with white. White makes everything right!

We see this trend waft in and out of fashion and this season it’s back for tops and frocks. Grecian, breezy, cool, asymmetrical and alluring are words that come to mind when I see one shoulder dressing. I’m not particularly drawn to the style, but don’t mind it either. It can make for an interesting look.

If you fancy the vibe, you’ll need a strapless bra and minimal accessories. A cuff or chunky bracelet with a clutch gets my vote over anything else (wearing the wrist accessory on the arm that bares it’s shoulder). I’d also leave one shoulder dressing for evening settings like date nights, parties, clubs, dinner events and fancy functions. You’d probably get away with sporting a casual version of the look at a beach resort during the day, but that’s about it.

Any takers?

Wearing structured clothing that defines the waistline is often flattering, but not when you’re self conscious about your midsection. On the other hand, your “extra bits” are effectively concealed when you’re all layered up with camisoles, tops and jackets, but that’s not as comfortable and airy as wearing a single layer.

The solution is the banded top. Although it has a roomy torso that hides the waist, the band reins in the volume and adds a tailored look. It’s forgiving and structured at the same time. A fab idea.

If I could provide a magic formula for selecting the perfect banded top, I’d shout it from the rooftops. But, like the elusive sweater dress, you’ll probably need to try several before you hit the jackpot. Hopefully these guidelines will help:

• Find your sweet spot: The hem of the band can end anywhere between hip bone and the top of the thigh, depending on the length of the top and how far it’s pulled down. Wearing the length a few inches above crotch point is a safe bet for shorter banded tops, but tunic styles need to be worn longer. Experiment with different banded top lengths, pulling each style both up and down until you find what works for you.
• Get the volume right: The beauty of the banded top lies in its voluminous mid riff that floats away from the waist line. That’s the part that makes it forgiving and comfortable. Look for tops with the right amount of volume: too much pouf and you’ll feel like a balloon; not enough and we’re back to tops that cling. Also, knits in this style tend to drape better than wovens, so look for those first.

I’ve seen the right banded top work on many body types, heights and sizes: from rectangles, adorable apples, inverted triangles, hourglasses and pretty pears, to petites, plus sizes and everything in between. It really depends on the style of the top and the rest of the outfit. So don’t brush past these styles in stores with the preconceived notion that they are unflattering. Keep your style evolving and give the banded top a bash. You might be pleasantly surprised.

The four on the left with dark backgrounds are shorter banded tops worn at hip bone length. The two on the right with light backgrounds are longer banded tops worn past the hip bone and as far down as the thigh. Remember to wear something sleek at the bottom when you sport volume on top (stick to boot cuts, skinnies, clamdiggers, straight legs or pencil skirts).

Cross body bags (or sling and messenger bags as I know them) used to be my favourite type of bag five to eight years ago. I loved this look because it was hip and hands free. But out of the blue, carrying a bag across my body started causing neck, chest and shoulder pain. I stopped cold turkey, passed on most of my sling bags and have hardly sported the look since. But I got all soft at the Macy’s sale last week when I saw something that had my name written all over it. I was prepared to give the look another chance. Enter my next Spring update: a cream cross body bag. Along with my other new off-white bag, this is my favorite of all the Spring updates thus far. I’m a bag lady at heart.

My previous cross body bags were quite large, and even though I keep the contents of my bag to a minimum, a big cross body bag does not work for me anymore. To my surprise, the smaller style works really well. I’ve worn the new micro version several times and no pain. I can hardly feel it’s on my body. I’m thoroughly enjoying the return of this handbag style to my ensembles. Along with wristlets, it’s made a nice change to the large flat totes that I sport daily.

Click here or on the pictures for a larger view of the outfits.

There are many variations on the cross body bag: large and small, plain and printed, casual and dressy or boho and classic – take your pick. This one errs on the dressy side, but even so, the integrity of the look is relaxed and modern. I can match up this particular style with both pants, leggings and frocks because it’s small, whereas large cross body bags seem to lend themselves better to pants, slacks and jeans.

A cross body bag of any size is an especially good idea for commuters on foot, and mums-on-the-go with kids in tow. It’s also a handy option for city travel, day trips and long shopping days. Zappos, Fossil, Nordstrom and Macy’s have great selections of cross body bags at the moment, which you’ll probably nab for a song. Mine was marked down from $129 to $42. Brilliant.

Other Spring 2009 accessory updates:

• Scarf and handbag
• Casual necklace
• Fun floral belt
• Floral pin
• Turquoise scarf