Archive for the 'Autumn 2009' Category

80’s Fashion redeems itself

Friday, December 18th, 2009

Three hard core years of 80’s fashion revival. Three years! That’s a whopping total of six fashion seasons and there’s more on the way. Skinny jeans, flat ankle boots, neon, oversized blazers, shoulder pads, waist-cinching belts, high-waisted pants, rah-rah skirts, off-the-shoulder necklines, sack dresses, flat oxfords, banded tops, plastic jewelry, bat-winged sleeves, ankle length pants, leg warmers, leggings, baggy tunics, Ponte pants, cobalt blue, bright fuchsia and pointy toed stiletto pumps.

Wow. What a tribute to what was known as “the decade of anti-fashion”.

I think that designers have done a brilliant of job of reinterpreting the good parts of 80’s fashion, making it more modern and more flattering than it was 25 years ago. Aside from my initial wobble with the rebirth of skinny jeans right at the start of the trend, I am all over everything that has an 80’s element. Initially, many of my clients were dead set against all silhouettes that remotely resembled the decade. But I’m proud to say that’s changed because fabric technology and good design has come a long way. And adjusting our eyes to new looks helps.

So ladies, after three years and counting, have you warmed to the resurgence of 80’s fashion? Did you like it from the word go? Can you manage it in small doses? Or do you wish it would disappear?

Wearing booties with skirts and dresses

Thursday, December 17th, 2009

It’s fun to follow trends and keep track of how they either evolve or fade away each season. I’ve kept a close watch on the “booties” or “shooties” trend which resurfaced along with the resurgence of 80’s fashion. The trend was a fringe statement three years ago but has grown into a mainstream look. Fabulous.

Booties and shooties started out being described as peds that looked both like a shoe and a boot. I’ve found that over the seasons, this definition has become a little loose. What I used to call an ankle boot is now also being described as a bootie. So to keep things simple in this post, I’m going to refer to all styles of ankle boots and booties as booties.

Wearing booties under boot cut and wide leg pants or jeans is a no-brainer. Even though you cover up most of their style detailing this way, it keeps the leg line long and that’s instantly flattering. Wearing booties with skinnies or straight leg bottoms showcases more of the ped and is a little more daring. Wearing booties with skirts and dresses is the most daring combination simply because high vamped shoes cut the leg line, especially when there is a strong contrast between the colour of the shoe and the colour worn on the leg.

Patent Mind BootieKinna Ankle BootieVanessa-leather-bootieRosegold

I love a fashion challenge. If you would like to experiment with the trendiest option, here are some guidelines for wearing this “of the moment” fashion ped with skirts and dresses:

  1. Adjust your eyes to the look: It’s always the first step! We have been brainwashed to believe that high vamped shoes do not work with skirts and dresses. True, this pairing often looks dumpy. But by adjusting the rest of the variables of an outfit, AND by getting the right style of bootie, you’ve bent body type guidelines and made the look work.
  2. Keep the leg line one colour: The easiest way to achieve a longer leg line is by keeping the hose and booties a similar colour. So black booties with black textured hose is a simple solution. Add a dress in a similar colour into the ensemble mix and you’ve created an even longer leg line.
  3. Keep it heeled: Even if it’s only an inch or two, the extra height helps to balance our proportions. Stacked three to four inch heels are best for this look, but never fear. Unless I’m sitting down, I don’t wear heels that high and you can make the look work with lower heels too. Short flat booties are not a no-no, but it’s a hard look to get right.
  4. Expose the knee cap: As with mid-calf boots, shortening the hemline just a tad is important. Remember that you can cover up with hosiery if you prefer more leg coverage.
  5. Choose a flop proof style: Booties that are cut low and fit close to the ankle tend to look more flattering (like the pair on the left above, and the round toe BC bootie). The Clarks “Cone Sweet” bootie is an excellent style to wear with dresses and skirts because it fits close to the ankle and actually has a low-ish vamp.

Once you’re confident sporting booties with skirts, you can move to YLF graduate school. This means dropping the second guideline and wearing the look with a high colour contrast between the foot and the leg. If you’re already sporting the advanced version, well done. It took me a while to graduate to that level, but I’m there now and enjoying every minute of it.

My guess is that the pairing of booties with skirts and dresses is here to stay, so don’t feel that you’re coming in on the end of a trend. It won’t be too late if you get cracking this season.

BC Footwear Swear Clarks Cone Sweet

Two of my favourite booties right now, both of which are in the YLF store.

Boyfriend blazer 101

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

Don’t be scared of the boyfriend blazer! It’s a hip item that’s a must if you have an arty, creative, casual and eclectic dimension to your style. The silhouette spells modern AND retro, and it’s more versatile than you think. Boyfriend blazers are great layered over T’s, knit tops and blouses worn with jeans or slacks. But they work equally well layered over little frocks and pencil skirts. If you can’t get your head around the boxyness of the style, you can either rein in volume with a belt, or choose a silhouette that shows your waistline.

As always the devil is in the details when it comes to finding a flattering silhouette. Here are some guidelines to help you find the right boyfriend blazer:

  • Colour: Solid black or charcoal grey are the obvious choices, but pinstripes, false plains, or any neutral will work.
  • Styling: Stick to single breasted styles because they’re flop proof. A long lean line is created in front of the body when a single breasted style is left un-buttoned, which is super slimming. Double breasted cuts are adorable and very ‘80’s, but harder to wear.
  • Fit: For an authentic boyfriend blazer look, you’re after a bit of boxyness in the waist area. But slimmer cut styles are available if you’d prefer to define the waist. Either way, make sure that the fit is snug through the shoulders and that the garment drapes well. It’s important to keep a strong shoulder with this silhouette, especially if you’re going for the boxy look. This will give your outfit the necessary structure.
  • Length: Lengths will vary from shrunken styles that graze the hip bone to longer lengths that cover the bottom. The taller you are, the longer you can go. If you’re extra petite, opt for a shorter length. Wearing heels with the look will also help to elongate the leg line.
  • Button positioning: I see this style worn open unless it’s belted. For this reason the stance of the jacket (where the highest button on a jacket hits the chest) should be high in order to add structure to the shoulder line. Lower stances work on tall gals and larger bust lines. But if you’re after a flop proof look, opt for a jacket with a stance positioned just under the bust or a couple of inches below that.
  • Sleeve detailing: Boyfriend jackets are all about scrunching, or rolling up sleeves to show lining detail. Contrast lining is fun but self colour lining works just as well. Both add an interesting textural dimension to the outfit.
  • Fabrication: Woven wool blend suiting fabrics are great, but so are cotton blends, tweeds and herringbones. Knitted blazers are also available for as extra casual look.

I adore my woven single-breasted black boxy boyfriend blazer with self colour lining. I personally prefer the item with volume because it looks more androgynous. I opted for the self colour lining because its more versatile (can be dressed up or down). But if you’re after a more casual look, contrast lining is the way to go.

If you still can’t get your head around the boxy 80’s boyfriend blazer, there’s room to cheat. Sport a regular fitted suit blazer and roll up or scrunch up the sleeves. Bobs your uncle.

Boyfriend BlazerSashimi Boyfriend BlazerABS Luxury Collection 'Armando' Square Shoulder Boyfriend BlazerPrinted Boyfriend Jacket

An assortment of boyfriend blazers, some are shorter and more tailored than others. The voluminous aspect of the boyfriend blazer is forgiving, relaxed and comfortable, yet you gain a bit of dressy structure because it’s a jacket. I have trendier Mums and gals on the go in this item and they’re happy as clams because it’s a nice change to the cardigan. Surprisingly, my older modern classic clients are loving the look too.

Sleeveless dressing in chilly weather

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009

This sounds counter intuitive, but there is method to the madness. Obviously, after a certain fall in temperature you’ll want to wear sleeved garments under sleeved layers. But before it gets really cold, sleeveless garments can work beautifully, even if you tend to feel the cold quickly like I do.

Sleeveless dresses and tops layer exceptionally well. No fabric bunching. No cutting off the circulation to your arms. Pure comfort. With it being a tunic cardigan season, sleeveless tops and blouses are practical items to wear under long sleeved knitwear and indoor jackets. And the same sleeveless items will double duty for warm weather worn on their own.

We haven’t reached freezing temperatures in Seattle yet, so I’m still wearing sleeveless dresses, knit tops and blouses layered with cascading or boyfriend cardigans, pullovers and cropped jackets. In the chillier mornings and evenings I’ll add a trench or wool coat on top of those layers. My feet are deliciously warm in boots with socks or hose and I’ll also throw in a scarf from time to time. Inside I peel off my coat but leave on the layer that’s over the sleeveless item. Easy.

It won’t be long before I’m in long sleeves most of the time, but for now layered sleeveless dressing makes sense. Do you wear sleeveless items in colder weather like I do?

Shae Shawl Sweater CoatElla Moss Mabeline TankVince Dolman CardiganCorey Lynn Calter Katy Zip Tank

Of course, wearing long sleeved tops, blouses, shirts and dresses under long sleeved knitwear and jackets is fabulous. But hopefully this might inspire you to extend the life of your sleeveless items. We’re always trying to get the most from our wardrobes!

Another season of grey is too much of a good thing

Tuesday, October 13th, 2009

Grey in all its hues featured in abundance last Autumn and Winter. Dove and silver grey were carried through for Spring and Summer. Now we’re back to Autumn collections and there is even more grey. That’s a whole year of grey!

Grey has been a relatively new neutral in my wardrobe. It’s flattering as long as I wear it with white, cream, or a bright colour. But I have enough grey and black in my wardrobe at the moment and won’t be purchasing more items in these colours. So it’s frustrating when I see clothing items that I love, but are only offered in grey or black. I guess that’s one way of keeping my budget in good shape.

I don’t personally wear brown or any of the earth tones that go with that palette, but I’m missing it in stores for clients who do. If you don’t like grey, black and white, there is little for you to purchase in the neutrals department at the moment. Perhaps offering only one colour spectrum of neutrals is a conscious retail decision in our tough economic climate. Buying budgets are tight and stores need to keep their stocks lean.

I adore the versatility and softness of grey and will continue to wear the grey goodies in my wardrobe. But my tolerance for the colour in stores is wearing very thin. Too much of a good thing. Does anyone else feel the same way?

Add feminine touches to casual plaid tops

Monday, October 12th, 2009

Plaid shirts and blouses are everywhere at the moment. For the most part they’re super casual in cotton or flannel fabrications, but they can look dressier when worn in drapey silks, chiffons and polyester blends.

The trick to wearing flannel plaid tops is to add feminine touches. In other words, if you don’t want to look boyish wearing a flannel shirt like we did in the 90’s, add the following girly design elements and accessories to this season’s look:

  • Choose a tunic length: This really makes the style feel “new”.
  • Add a belt: My suggestion is to swap out the self- fabric belt that came with the tunic to prevent it from looking like a robe. Opt for a webbing or distressed leather belt instead, either low-slung or waist-cinching.
  • Keep the ruffles: You might be sick of ruffles, but having them on an otherwise masculine garment makes sense.
  • Mix in lace: Layer a lacy camisole under the shirt and if you’re daring, throw in the pearls too.

This item might not be your cup of tea if you can’t get your head around wearing flannel plaid. But it can be cute once you get the details right, which is why the plaid tunic forms part of MOTG formula #9. I have happy stylish clients wearing that formula combination right now. Promise!

Central Park West Griffin Plaid Ruffle Shirt Theory Seena Tunic Vince Oversized Plaid Shirt with Rolled Sleeves
Yag Couture Plaid Hooded Dress Shirt Hinge® Ruffled Plaid Tunicicon Yellow and Black Plaid Flannel 3/4-Sleeve Shirt

Tunic looks with ruffles, belts and lace. Fabulous over jeans or stretch knit pants with killer boots. But I’m one of the lasses who won’t we wearing casual plaid this season. I’ll wear a plaid top if it’s in a dressy silk fabrication and opt for a the denim shirt look instead.

I’m all ruffled out

Monday, October 5th, 2009

There are ruffles and frills on everything at the moment. You’ll see them on T’s, blouses, shirts, knitwear, bottoms, dresses, jackets, coats, skirts, shoes, boots, bags, scarves, underwear and necklaces. I adore ruffled items and I’ve been sporting them since I was a little girl. I like the textural integrity that a soft self-colour ruffle adds to a garment. It’s feminine, pretty and baroque looking.

But now that it’s a hot trend, fashion retail is killing the look. It’s reached the stage where you’ll battle to find a top with interesting, non-ruffle, style detailing. I have clients who do not fancy ruffles and it’s been a challenge to find them suitable tops, especially since some of these ladies are well endowed.

Variety is an important component of a great fashion season and so far, I don’t think we are getting that in the styling options for tops and knitwear. Too many ruffles. I’ll be happy to continue wearing the items in my closet, but I’m not purchasing anything else with ruffles this season. I guess I preferred ruffled items when they weren’t mainstream fashion.

How do you feel about ruffles? Have you noticed the epidemic in stores? For those of you who do not live in the US, are ruffled items a hot trend in your neck of the woods too?

How to dress for warm weather in Autumn

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

My favourite season is here! Most people blossom in Spring but I blossom in Autumn. Clear blue skies, fiery foliage, and the crisp, fresh nip in the air puts me into a fabulous mood each day. That, and the fact that I can haul out my boot collection.

It cools down quickly in our neck of the woods, but that might not be the case for you. If it’s still hot at this time of year, it’s completely stylish to continue wearing Summer clothes into Autumn. But if you are starting to get bored with your Summer outfits, here are some ways to look more seasonally “Autumn”, even in warm weather:

  • Wear darker colours: Keep the fabrication Summer weight with cotton and silk blends, but wear more black, grey, brown, ink blue, earth tones and muted colours instead of white and acidic brights. But please don’t think that you can’t wear bright colours in Autumn, or black in Summer. Of course you can and I do it all the time. I’m merely suggesting a change from what might be routine in your style.
  • Change your accessories: Swap out tropical looking jewelry like shells and brightly coloured stones for more somber and dramatic looks. Tweed floral pins and brushed metals will do the trick.
  • Add a cotton scarf in Autumn colours: Pair a scarf in muted tones to a sleeveless outfit.
  • Change your handbag: Switch to black, brown, taupe or grey if you’ve been sporting a colour for Summer.
  • Change the shade of your toenail polish: Opt for rich, dark hues instead of bubblegum brights. It’s a nice salute to the new season if you’re still in sandals.
  • Wear pumps, loafers or ballet flats: Still too hot for boots, but cool enough for more foot coverage. Tweed, animal print and rich suede screams Autumn.
  • Keep jackets and knitwear lightweight: Waist coats, biker waistcoats and short sleeved or sleeveless jackets and cardigans are effective ways to layer in the heat.
  • Add boots of any length to short shorts, or super short miniskirts: This is daring and you’ll need youth on your side to pull it off, but it’s fabulous when the components are right. I tend to stick to clamdiggers with boots and add a breezy top as a more age appropriate take on this look.
  • Wear slouch boots with short dresses: This is my favourite way to introduce Autumn back into my style this season. I pair sleeveless cool wool sheaths and jersey frocks, or short sleeved silk dresses with mid calf slouch boots. The dresses are best a few inches above the knee for mid calf boots to work, otherwise you’ll look dumpy. I’ve found that doing the look sleeveless works well because it keeps you cool, but this is not essential.

It’s still hot in Hong Kong when Autumn comes around, but the stylish lasses there do a fabulous job of incorporating a seasonally appropriate twist to their outfits. Refresh your memories on how they do it.

Giveaway: Zina Painters Shirt

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

I recently mentioned the avante guard painters shirt as an item for fearless fashionistas this season, and you might be wearing one sooner than you thought! An interesting giveaway opportunity came our way and I’m excited to share it with you: the “one size fits most” painters shirt by boutique brand Zina of Beverly Hills. It retails for $245 at Neiman Marcus and looks quite haute couture.

The painters shirt is not for everyone because it takes courage to surrender your waistline to this extent. We’re talking major deconstruction if you wear it as is. But you’ve also got the option of pairing it with a waist-cinching or low slung belt if you’d prefer to rein in some of the volume.

There is definitely a place in fashion for eclectic pieces. I adore voluminous items and feel that they can look stunning when worn in the right way. What are your thoughts on this particular painters shirt? Would you wear it? How would you wear it?

To be eligible for the giveaway, please reply to this post and be sure to write “I would wear it” somewhere in your comment. We will choose the lucky recipient using a random number generator and get in touch using the email address you provide.

Entries for the giveaway will close on September 18 at 5pm (PST).

Painters ShirtPainters ShirtPainters Shirt

The Zina Painters Shirt. With this model’s proportions I would have belted the shirt a little higher in the waist, or on the natural waist, to avoid looking long waisted.

Double-breasted jackets: open and closed

Tuesday, September 15th, 2009

It used to be a faux-pas to wear double breasted jackets without buttoning up. Left open, you would get a weird fabric flopping thing happening around the torso and bust area making you look shapeless and unpolished. Buttoning them up was the only way to achieve a form fitting shape that showed off your waistline. Single breasted jackets, on the other hand, retain their shape along the contour of the torso when you leave them un-buttoned.

But deconstructed and boxy clothing is back in fashion and wearing double breasted jackets open is the “it” look. The jackets are also tailored accordingly. The upside is that when unbuttoned they create the same flattering vertical line down the front of the body. The downside is that it still means surrendering the waistline and taking some structure away from the bust area. Double edged sword.

Buttoning up tailored, double breasted styles is always flattering, but leaving them open is a fun new twist on the style. What do you think?

Boiled Wool Regalia Sweater-JacketElie Tahari "Shana" Double-Breasted JacketDouble Breasted Herringbone Jacket