When dressy wardrobe items are pristine and pill-free, they come into my wardrobe promoted and ready to work their threads off. But after excessive wash and wear they start to look shabby and lose their professional polished luster. I’m not ready to pass them on because they’re still flattering and comfortable. So I demote them instead, thereby allowing them to work for the non-professional, more casual side of my wardrobe.

Here are some recent examples:

• Brown and black, knee-length tweed coat: This used to be my favourite dressy wool coat. But it’s pilling and getting threadbare so it got demoted to dog walking.
• Black sateen trench: For years I wore this trench to death, taking it along with me when I traveled around the world. But it’s no longer black-black and the buttons and belt are worn. So I found a new black trench for everyday work wear and demoted this one to wear to casual occasions with Converse sneakers.
• White button-downs: I have a thing about white button downs needing to look perfectly crisp and angelic for work. When they start losing their colour or get stained, they get demoted to layering pieces for casual outfits.
• Patent pointy-toed, low heeled cream boots: The patent on the toes is coming off and the heels are all scratched up. I’ve had these boots fixed up by a cobbler more times than I can remember but I can’t let them go because they’re unique, good in bad weather and extremely comfy. Now they see the inside of a movie theatre a lot more often.

I demote dressy wardrobe items for myself and my clients on a fairly regular basis. I was wondering whether this is something that you do too.

I love editing our lives. It probably stems from being a bit of a control freak, but that’s the way I’m wired. I thrive when my environment is neat, clean, organized and uncluttered. Seeing perfect piles of colour-coded clothing in our wardrobe puts me on an absolute high! I like to know exactly what we have and where to find it at the drop of a hat. This makes me feel in control of my life, which in turn relieves my stress levels. Odd but true.

So I’m especially perky this week after spending a good few hours editing our closet (I get stuck into Greg’s side too, since we share a walk-in wardrobe). For me editing is an ongoing thing, which makes it easier and faster. But every so often I  do a more thorough sweep. While I was doing that over the weekend I got to thinking about some of the less obvious benefits of the process:

1. It clarifies what you have: It’s easy to forget what you own especially when limited closet space forces you to keep wardrobe items all over the show. Your memory is refreshed when you sweep regularly. No unnecessary duplications and not wearing items because you forgot you had them.
2. It encourages you to wear items that you haven’t worn in a while: When I clean out my closet, I come across items I haven’t worn in months or even a year and it makes me want to wear them again.
3. It sparks off a sense of creativity: I come up with new ways of combining clothing, footwear and accessories when I go through my closet. The process sharpens my style tools.
4. It keeps the space neat and organized: Our closet is always tidy, but a monthly edit makes it even more so and that makes my toes tingle.
5. It forces you to reorganize storage space: Your wardrobe can outgrow a storage space. For example, my handbags and boots required a better storage solution which meant that I had to rearrange storage space within the walk-in wardrobe in order to accommodate the extras.

I prefer a small wardrobe because it’s easier to manage and it forces you to be more strict about new additions. Something has to go before I can add anything else. Apart from our coats, underwear, socks, sporting gear and Greg’s shoes, all clothing, footwear and accessories fit into our small wardrobe and I want to keep it that way.

Do any of these additional benefits resonate with you? How often do you edit your wardrobe? Do you enjoy the process? Do you find it hard to let stuff go? Do you forget what you have? Are you happy with your storage solutions?

I’m drawn to do-and-don’t lists. You have the option to disagree and come up with your own set of style rules which makes for a worthwhile exercise. It caused quite a stir when I posted on Charla Krupp’s list of forbidden fashion for the over 30’s (from her New York Times best seller “How Not To Look Old”, a book I enjoyed). The overall YLF consensus was that age 30 is too low as a cutoff point for the items mentioned on the list. Situational context, body type and persona play a huge role when sporting a so called young item with effortless style, and there are exceptions to every rule.

Charla’s list of Top 25 Clothes That Just Gotta Go is also food for thought. She does not attach an age to this list, but her book is targeted at the over 40’s.  Charla feels that no matter how attached you are to these pieces, they have to go because they make you look dated and old lady. Holding onto them for lounging purposes won’t do either. Here’s the list with my two cents for each item:

1. Holiday sweaters with bells and appliqués: Hard one. I realize that this is tradition in some American households especially in child friendly settings.
2. Granny/Mommy necklaces that tell you how many grandchildren you have: Another hard one. Making the exception to wear unstylish sentimental items occasionally is fine in my book.
3. Souvenir T-shirts: They can make fun lounging items and comfy sleepwear.
4. T-shirts with meant to be funny sayings: Same as above. If it makes you smile when you’re at home and out of the public eye – why not.
5. Overalls: Agreed. There is superb maternity wear to choose from these days, so give dungarees a miss.
6. Acid washed jeans: Look at our Kyle and you’ll soon change your mind. If you’re uber polished and the rest of the outfit is fabulous, I say go for it.
7. Ripped jeans: Generally I’m not into torn and overly distressed denim, but Kyle’s jeans were subtly ripped and she absolutely wore them with style.
8. Shoulder pads: They are coming back into fashion so I say never say never.
9. Flannel shirts: The oversized grunge variety are awful, but Ralph Lauren makes a tailored range every holiday season and they can look great.
10. Muumuus: They aren’t my cup of tea either but you’ll get away with the look in Hawaii.
11. Photo handbags: It’s fine to sport not so fab looking sentimental items occasionally. I’ve also seen stylish designer photo handbags that I’d sport in an instant.
12. Flesh colored hose: I’m not a fan, but if a dress code requires it that’s fine by me.
13. Penny loafers: No way. Loafers can be trendy or traditional, and absolutely stylish. It’s a very Euro look and when my ballet flat days are over, I’m onto fab looking loafers for sure.
14. Oversized blazers: Structured jackets are always flattering, but trendy unstructured styles get my vote too.
15. Mommy robes: I must admit I’m not sure what this is. Anyone care to enlighten me?
16. Thin-gold-chain necklaces: They’re not the height of style, but they’ll work if you prefer dainty gold jewelry and the rest of your ensemble is current.
17. Elastic-waist pants: Structured pants with waistbands are definitely best for public dressing, but by all means wear elastic-waist lounge pants at home.
18. Granny undies: Wearing the best possible bra is a must, but if you like to wear big knickers and shapewear, go for it.
19. Baggy sweats: Great for lounging at home.
20. Bearlike, full length fur coats: I’m against any type of real fur so I can’t comment objectively on this one.
21. Short shorts: I say wear them at home if they keep you cool when it’s desperately hot.
22. Cargo pants: I have clients built like string beans in their late 40’s sporting this look with style. It can be done.
23. Stockings with reinforced toes: It won’t make a difference if you wear closed-toe shoes.
24. Three piece suits with vests: An androgynous look can look stunning when worn with edge and sass.
25. Backpacks: Versions that are gear get my red light too, but the trendier basic Euro staple has made a fashionable comeback and we’ll probably see more people sport the look.

I would agree with much more of this list if Charla excluded lounging. I do advocate lounging with style, but there are times when you want to be really comfortable at home because it’s extremely hot or cold, or when you’re feeling under the weather. These are times when you’re out of the public eye and forgoing a bit of style won’t harm your style quotient. The danger arises when lounge dressing becomes the norm for all aspects of your life. This is probably why Charla is stricter about these items than I am – eliminating the item completely eliminates the temptation of wearing it at any time.

Over to you. What are your thoughts on the items on Charla’s list?

Time and time again I work with clients who have no full length mirror. But it’s essential that you have one. You need to judge your outfit in its entirety, seeing the full silhouette and judging whether the bottom half of your look works with the top half. Heaven forbid you’re walking around with pants that are too short because you can’t see all the way to the hem.

Ideally, a mounted or free standing, full-length mirror should be close to your closet. Great places for it to live are inside the closet itself, in the bedroom, or on the bathroom door. If it is in another part of the house, that’s ok too. At least you have the option of viewing your ensemble from head to toe before you venture out.

Consider purchasing a full length mirror immediately if you don’t have one already. They don’t need to be expensive and the smallest of apartments can store one successfully. No more climbing onto baths, sinks, chairs and tables to see the rest of you. It’s an easy problem to solve.

The January issue of Glamour magazine (the one with Brittany Spears on the cover) is worth a look. It has an excellent, illustrated seven page article on how to successfully mix-and-match ensemble pieces that most of us already own. The same pieces are dressed both up and down, which is key to a making a small wardrobe work.

Getting the biggest bang for your fashion buck means paying keen prices and making wardrobe items work overtime. This article shows you how to do it. My favourite tips were:

• Wearing a black turtle neck under a white button down shirt
• Pairing an arty printed T with trousers, a denim jacket and Converse sneakers
• Slipping blouses under sheath dresses
• Opting for pale shoes (I’m biased because pales shoes work well with  my hair colour)

The article points out that adding different accessories to an outfit makes it look and feel new. I wholeheartedly agree. The accessory, handbag and footwear departments in any store are the first to tickle my fancy at the start of a new season. Based on many of your fashion and style resolutions for the new year, it sounds like we’re all going to pay closer attention to our accessory collections this year. I’m willing to bet that the accessory areas of departments stores will show a sales growth in our challenging economy.

I encourage regular closet sweeps and there is no better time to do it than early in the new year. I notice on the forum that some people got stuck in before my annual reminder. Brilliant.

Your goal is to have a small, fully-functional and efficient wardrobe. Trust me ladies, this is how you alleviate “what to wear” stress and save money. Here are the guidelines:

• Be ruthless: You’ll defeat the goal of the exercise if you’re not brutal about the process. Obviously, you need something to wear, so it might mean holding onto less-then-perfect items until you can afford to replace them.
• Create a holding zone: Store items somewhere (like in the garage or attic) if you think you might miss them later. These are the items you are unsure about passing on. If you haven’t missed these pieces after one year, find new homes for them.
• Keep a sentimental box: I’m not unreasonable. Unflattering items that are loaded with fond memories deserve a special place. We keep these items in a box in the garage so that they don’t clutter our small walk-in-wardrobe. Some of my clients have resorted to taking pictures instead of keeping the physical pieces as a way of optimizing space.
• Keep everything in sight and on hand: It’s not ideal to swap out seasons, or use more than one closet (that’s why I encourage a small wardrobe). Try to have all your clothes, shoes and accessories in one place. It prevents repetition and encourages ensemble creativity and variety.
• Create a closet system you can maintain: The crux is keeping your closet neat and manageable. There is little point in tidying up when your shelves are a shambles a week later. Create a storage system that works for you so that you know what you have at all times.

Once you have a fully-functioning wardrobe, adopt the ”one-in, one-out” principle. This forces you to keep things under control. Thereafter, the skill lies in updating your wardrobe with the right items and in the right quantities to keep your look current, appropriate and fabulous. Bring on the closet sweep!

Other posts in the closet organization category that you may want to consult:

• Your closet: inspiration or irritation?
• Wardrobe essentials
• Wardrobe favourites
• Wardrobe orphans
• Wardrobe golden oldies
• Fabulous unworn items: keep or toss?
• Closet Organization: Part 1
• Closet Organization: Part 2

Here is something I’ve read in fashion magazines, heard on television and seen mentioned in the forum: if you haven’t worn an item of clothing for over a year, pass it on.

I encourage closet editing, but I don’t agree with the strict application of this rule. If an item is dated, uncomfortable, ill-fitting or unflattering – by all means pass it on. But what happens to the items that are perfect, but are not in current circulation. Do they need to go? I don’t think so.

I suggest keeping items that are still in vogue, fit well, look good and that you enjoyed wearing before your preferences changed. Here are a few examples from my wardrobe:

• Premium bootcut jeans: I prefer to wear skinnies and straight legs, but these five year-old jeans are in mint condition and staying in my closet.
• Bias cut tweed jacket: I was into the “English countryside look” four years ago but have not sported it since. My funky tweed jacket was left orphaned for years until I renewed its life yesterday by matching it with a new black necktie shirt, slouchy grey boots and a bee-brooch. I’m glad I hung on to it because the cut is unique and flattering.
• Pinstripe pants suit: I haven’t worn my pants suit in a while because I’m wearing pencil skirts instead. But I adore my suit and the fit is impeccable. Perhaps I’ll haul it out for cocktails over the holiday season and re-invent it’s look. It’s also a handy outfit to have for more conservative situations.
• Formal dresses: I have a few vintage-looking cocktail dresses which are several years old. They don’t come out to play each year, but are fairly timeless and put out fires when I need a formal outfit in jiff. I’m not throwing them out any time soon.

It is important to be selective though. Don’t use this rationale to hoard questionable items. If in doubt, pass it on.

What’s your keep or toss rule?

Sometimes we know our wardrobe orphans will never work and we need to pass them on. My wide-leg pants, emerald green camisole and cocktail rings were such orphans and they’ve found a happy home at Dress for Success. Other times, wardrobe orphans get a second chance once we’ve worked out how to wear them. In my case, a potential orphan often gets new life when I’ve purchased a new piece to pair it with, like a pair of shoes, top or jacket.

These are the items in my closet that went from drab to fab over the last year:

• Bootcut jeans: A pair of chunky, distressed pewter pumps and a welted tunic renewed the look of my bootcuts. I can once again feel great in these jeans, which means I can give my skinnies a rest from time to time.
• Cobalt blue patent snake-skin tote: I hardly used this handbag in its first year (my cream cracked patent tote was my go-to bag at the time). I bought a retro, cobalt wool coat last Winter which brought the cobalt bag to life. It is now among my favourites because I’m sporting a neutral, textured look more frequently and the cobalt bag offers a fabulous spot of colour, particularly against cream, white and black.
• Printed yellow and purple shirt: I wore this silky shirt with voluminous sleeves a few times and then promptly abandoned it for a year. But it became a favourite once I had the perfect denim skirt to wear it with. I receive many compliments when I wear this rather hectic shirt and I can’t for the life of me understand why I delayed the look. I suppose I’ve finally found a way to make it feel effortless.
• Silver sling-back wedge heels: These shoes competed with my cream wedges, which I bought at the same time. I initially favoured my cream wedges while my silver pair collected dust. But they became my go-to Spring and Summer wedge this year and work perfectly with just about all of my outfits. I now can’t imagine my wardrobe without them.

Perhaps you also have pieces in your closet that took a while to get into circulation. I’d love to hear about them because I’m pretty sure I’m not alone in reviving some of my orphaned wardrobe items.

Fashion evolves. Our bodies and lifestyles change constantly, and with them the contents of our wardrobe. Updating, replacing and duplicating clothing, footwear and accessories is a way of life. But alongside the items in our wardrobe that will only last for one season, there are others that have lasted a lot longer. Today we pay tribute to these wardrobe golden oldies.

These are the rules:

1. The items must be purchased first hand by you, or by someone else for you
2. Thrift store items, vintage pieces and hand-me-downs don’t count
3. Old items and sentimental pieces that you don’t wear don’t count

I’ll go first:

• Diesel denim jacket: It’s 8 years old and I’ve had it completely altered. Now that it looks updated, it’s back in full stylish swing. I am never giving this jacket away. It’s going to end up in someone else’s closet as a vintage piece when I’m 85.
• Prada handbag: It’s 10 years old and virtually looks new. It’s black, silver studded and the “baguette” style that was all the rage in the 90’s. I used to sport it all the time when it was new because it was my favourite piece back then. Today I have lots of favourites so it comes out less often. It’s still quite the show piece and attracts loads of attention.
• Chanel handbag: It’s 13 years old and was a gift from a manufacturer during my days as a fashion buyer. It seldom comes out to play. This is not the Chanel bag I’d have personally selected, but it’s a beautiful classic piece that will never date. I hope to use it more as I get older.

Now it’s your turn. What are some of the oldest items in your closet that are still in stylish circulation?

I like and wear everything in my wardrobe because it fits and flatters in the very best way (it’s imperative that I practice what I preach!). But there are items that I seldom wear, simply because I like them less than other items. They don’t look bad, they just rank last on my list of favourites.

• Wide-legged jeans: I have two pairs. One in dark denim and one in a pinstripe denim with cuffs. They are dramatic and fun but I’m not as drawn to them as I thought I would be. I prefer the sleekness of skinnies, straight-legs and boot cuts. These silhouettes make me feel extra fabulous, whereas wide-legs don’t. I’m becoming increasingly wary of wide-legged pants.
• Cocktail rings: I have a super collection of cocktail rings. Both semi-precious stones and pearls. I use to wear a cocktail ring every day, but stopped when I encountered problems with my wrists. My wrists improved and I am now out of the habit. I hope to get my head around this soon.
• Halter neck dress: I have a graphic black and cream, polka dot, low-waisted halter neck dress that blousons on the bodice and looks smashing. But it has to be 95 degrees plus for me to wear it on its own and it doesn’t look good with a cover-up. I live in Seattle and seldom frequent warm weather places. So this poor old dress decorates my closet between heat waves.
• Kelly green camisole: I adore the colour, but always seem to find that another colour looks better when I try to integrate it into an outfit. My ensemble tends to look Christmassy when I wear it. Perhaps I’ll find the right companion piece at some point. In the mean time it can keep my other camis company.

What are the least favourite items in your wardrobe and why?