Tailored single-breasted jackets and blazers that are left un-buttoned are usually more flattering. They create a natural vertical line that elongates the silhouette, and draws the eye up-and-down. Leaving a jacket un-buttoned is also more comfortable and shows off interesting layering detail.

Bustier gals and gals who are a little broader in the shoulder can battle with jacket-button closure. The jacket fits everywhere else, but can’t button up. Going up a size means that the buttons will fasten, but that the shoulder line, sleeve length and torso are sloppy. An experienced and superb seamstress can alter anything, but jackets are tricky and expensive to alter (especially if they have lining). In this instance, alteration is often not worth the price and effective results are not guaranteed.

So I’m giving you the go-ahead to purchase a jacket or blazer that doesn’t close across the bust area, if it fits perfectly in all other respects. Obviously, outerwear trenches, coats, parkas and gear need to button up for practical reasons. There is little sense in braving the elements for aesthetics. But I’m fine with leaving other types of jackets unbuttoned as a cost-effective, stress-free and comfy solution.

Button-down woven shirts weren’t popular in the comments on the knits vs. wovens post a few days ago. Lack of comfort, tricky fit, severe look and overly formal appearance were the complaints. But I’m sticking up for the item today because there are many ways you can make the right one work in your wardrobe.

YLF forum member Julia was the inspiration for today’s post. She gave an old yellow striped button-down shirt new life by layering it with fun items and combining key accessories. The lesson is that we shouldn’t think of a button-down shirt as a wow-top that stands alone (unless it’s an Anne Fontaine). Instead, think of it as a vehicle that enables other items to shine.

Button–downs are great when layered under waistcoats and knitwear, belted in at the waist or peeping out from under tailored jackets. I like to tuck them into pencil skirts, pop the collar and scrunch up the sleeves. I also like to wear them un-tucked over skinny jeans with heels and a statement necklace. I’ve just purchased a grey and white baby pinstripe button-down shirt with exaggerated white French cuffs and collar. I can’t wait to belt it under my biker jacket with pearls.

Go beyond the conventional, strict, masculine button-down shirt. The right shirt can look soft, pretty and delicate if the cut, colour and fabrication is just so. My wardrobe wouldn’t function without fabulous black, white and cream button-downs. They aren’t a wardrobe must, but they can add style and spunk to your look if you’re creative with your outfits. They are also a great way to bridge the gap between different items. I encourage you to give them a second chance

J. Crew usually does a wonderful job of integrating an assortment of basic button-downs into their collection.

Skinny belts that are too long can still work if you use this shortening technique. It’s nifty and one I’m sure you’ve seen before.

Wrap the long, dangling end around the part of the belt that’s on your waist and pull it through to create “a knotted effect”. Pull the knot tightly and the belt stays put all day.

If the ends of the belt are too short to knot, but long enough to dangle, use double sided tape or Velcro adhesives to keep the belt end in place. Having belts professionally shortened by a cobbler is another route to go. But if you’re short on time like I was last week, knotting works just fine.

Some jobs have a strict dress code (e.g. formal wear in the legal profession), require a uniform (e.g. the military), or involve special clothing (e.g. the crocs and scrubs worn by hospital staff). These work environments definitely simplify the daily dressing routine. Dress codes in other professions are often more lenient. This is especially true in creative industries like advertizing, fashion and interior design.

I’ve spent my career in these more flexible office environments, and I’m still often taken aback by some of the outfit choices that I see. While I can appreciate daring looks in the evening and on weekends, my belief is that modesty is the best policy in most work environments. Here are my guidelines on what is inappropriate at work: 

• Strappy and strapless tops: But sleeveless tops with built-up shoulders are fine. If you’re going to wear something strappy or strapless to work, keep it covered with a jacket or cardigan so that it acts as a layering piece instead of the focal point.
• Mini-skirts and short-shorts: Anything shorter than two to three inches above the kneecap is too short. Remember that skirts ride up when you sit down so do the “sit down test” before you commit to a shorter hemline. In some situations, you’ll get away with a shorter skirt if you pair it with leggings or opaque tights, especially if you’re petite.
• Super low necklines: Camisoles usually solve the cleavage issue, but not always. Bustier gals can’t help but sport a bit of cleavage with camisoles and that’s perfectly fine. Well endowed ladies look best in lower necklines which makes a spot of cleavage unavoidable.
• Overly tight clothing: Tailoring is superb but excessive clinging is not.
• See-through items: Wearing something sheer to work requires a bra and camisole. If you can’t make a see-through item opaque for work purposes, don’t wear it.

Unless your dress code enforces “the hose and closed-toe shoe rule”, I’m all for bare legs and pretty open-toed sandals in professional settings. In my mind there’s nothing immodest about revealing the lower leg and part of the foot. There’s a lot of subjectivity here though, and norms vary by industry, culture and geography. What are your views on modesty in the workplace and office appropriate attire?