Fall & Winter 2019: Vibe and Silhouette

It’s on to themes and silhouettes for 2019 after the colour palette forecast yesterday. Remember that trends last for years, and even decades, these days, and that Doing Your Own Thing (DYOT) is the most important trend of all. Some looks are mainstream, while others are fringe. Pick what’s to your taste from the buffet of trends and sport things YOUR way.

From my perspective, these are the most important looks of the season, and the seasons to come. Many trends are a continuation of what we’ve been seeing for a couple of a seasons, and are simply gaining mainstream momentum.

Most of the fashion inspiration is taken from the ‘80s and early to mid ‘90s, with a smidge of the ‘70s thrown into the mix. Here are the most current and fashionable vibes and silhouettes.

Long Blazers

Blazer lengths that cover the bottom and hips, and extend onto the thighs, are where it’s at for now. The idea is to wear them with anything, so dresses and skirts across various lengths, full-length and cropped pants and jeans across all sorts of silhouettes, and shorts too. This takes me back to the ‘90s right away.

Full-length pants

The runways are ALL about full-length pants and jeans and very few bare ankles. Tailored and slouchy, regular lengths and scrunched lengths, hard and soft fabrics, patterns and solids, casual and dressy vibe, and very few skinnies. Retail insists on cropping pants and jeans until the cows come home, but that’s not what’s happening on the runways. Hopefully we’ll see a larger assortment of full-length bottoms this season.

Midis and Maxis with Movement

Skirt lengths are knee, calf and ankle covering and generally worn with hosiery, socks or leg warmers for warmth. 95% of the silhouettes are A-line and flared in some way for ease of movement. Many of the hemlines showcase some sort of asymmetrical interest. Straight, pencil and form-fitting skirts and dresses are few and far between.

Wide Pants

Pants and jeans are tailored with movement like bootcuts, roomy and very roomy all the way down, or pleated up top and tapered at the hems with ample fluidity in the middle. Roomy straight legs or narrow wide crops are popular, and cropped to around the ankle or scrunched over the ankle and very long in length.

High Rises

Rises are high, or very high. Waistbands finish just under, on, or over the belly button. Think the ‘80s. Flat fronts are as popular as pleats and paperbag waists. The idea is to showcase the waist by tucking, semi-tucking, wearing a short top, or wearing a top or topper that belts in the same position as the waistband of the bottoms.

Plaid on Plaid on Plaid on Plaid

Fashion is besotted with every form of check and tartan across all sorts of colours and wardrobe items. Subtle, garish, bright, neutral, and the variations in between. Plaids are pattern mixed with all sorts of patterns and with other plaids. The sky is the limit when it comes to plaid.

Animal Print

It’s another season of animal print everything and especially in earth tones and footwear. Leopard, cheetah, tiger, pony, giraffe, zebra and snakeskin patterns reign supreme, and in non-neutrals too. Like plaid, animal print is remixed with all sorts of patterns and colours.

Tailoring and Straight Slouch

Today’s fashion is a wonderful mixture of waist-defining form-fitting silhouettes AND unstructured waist-surrendering silhouettes. Gorgeous tailoring, subtle fluidity, roomy fluidity, and oversized slouch, so take your pick. Drape, architectural drape, or showcasing the contour of your body just as you want to.

Sharp Shoulders and Puffy Sleeves

The ‘80s sharp shoulder has been trending for a while but is not mainstream like it used to be. I’m not sure it will ever be maintream again, but at least we have the option. Puffy sleeves that are gathered on the crown and tapered at the wrist are completely mainstream, and a much easier silhouette to layer under outerwear than the exuberant sleeve detailing we’ve been bombarded with over the last few seasons.

Trouser Suiting

Another ‘90s influence. Suiting with all sorts of pant silhouettes is huge, and completely mainstream in solids, plaids, pinstripes, florals, animal print or any other pattern that you like. Some of the blazers are longer length, but many are regular hip bone length. The idea is to wear a pants suit as a fast fall-back outfit in all sorts of settings with dressy heels, sneakers, oxfords, or dressy flats. Combine it with a tee, blouse, shirt, or pullover. Wear a tailored suit, or a more relaxed oversized suit. This is your answer to a comfy and warm holiday look when you’re not into dresses and skirts. Pant suits are a lot more handy, versatile and comfortable that you think.

Gothic Florals

Big moody florals on dark and earthy backgrounds are abundant, and you’ll find them in every wardrobe item. You can combine them with solids, or pattern mix to your heart’s content.

Lots of Colour, Lots of Black

The ‘80s were about brights from head-to-toe, while the ‘90s were about black from head-to-toe. The opposing colour spectrums happily live side by side today, and you can pick and choose. There is no right or wrong colour combination. The only thing that makes it wrong is when you’re not at peace wearing it.

Corduroy

I think of corduroy as a ‘70s and early ‘80s fabric, and it’s back with a vengeance across all wardrobe items. Hello corduroy suiting, coats, boots, pants, blazers, hats and wide crops. It’s a very casual fabric that is texture-rich and warmer than denim.

Teddy, Aviator, Shearling and Maxi Coats

All sorts of faux fur toppers continue to trend in jackets, coats, waistcoats and gilets across all solids and patterns. Roomy aviator and shearling jackets across neutrals and non-neutrals in hip-length boxy cuts that cover the butt are a throwback to the ‘90s, and a fun way to refresh your topper capsule. Calf-length maxi coats in tailored and cocoon shapes are popular and complement the midi and maxi skirt and dress trend.

Belting

There is SO much belting on the runways all of which highlight the waist. There are belted tops, jackets, gilets and coats. High-rise jeans and pants are worn with wide belts, and dresses are belted at the waist with a broad belt, ‘80s style.

Prep School

There’s a school uniform look that combines shirts with ties and blazers, dresses worn over shirts ‘90s style, and sleeveless pullovers worn over shirts and blouses with flared skirts and trousers across colours and patterns. Add fun socks, oxfords, Mary Janes, a satchel or crossbody, and Bob’s your uncle.

I like it all, but to varying degrees. I am the least interested in long blazers, gothic florals, belting, animal print, lots of black, and corduroy. I am the most interested in full-length pants, aviator toppers, midis, prep school, wide pants, trouser suiting, sharp shoulders, puffy sleeves, plaid, maxi coats, tailoring, and high rises. Which of these vibes and silhouettes are you feeling for Fall & Winter?

Boden Markham Cord Trench Coat

ei8htdreams Danielle Split Sleeve Blazer

pushBUTTON Wide Leg Wool Pant

Eloquii Cropped Moto Jacket

Fall & Winter 2019: Colour

This season I’m going to report on the trends for the next six months differently. Instead of one post, I’m breaking things up into five separate posts and devoting all week to the topic. That way the info is easier to digest and we can focus our conversations in the comments section. Let the trend games begin.

At this point I’ve seen most of the Ready-to-Wear collections for Fall 2019. Each season a set of cohesive and interesting themes eventually emerge through the chaos and drama that struts down the runway. Not one hit wonders, but themes that have staying power for years, and sometimes for decades. 

Here are some things that stood out at a high level:

  • Complexity and uncertainty continue to describe the state of current fashion. You’ll find it all on the runways if you look hard enough.
  • Maximalism is front and centre, which means wearing it all together to create a harmonized whole. Wearing complex silhouettes and combining them in one outfit, layering all sorts of pieces to create interesting proportions, accessorizing to your limit, pattern mixing, texture mixing, patchwork, embellishment, remixing high-contrast colours and clashing colours, sporting statement make-up, and adding nail polish and rainbow hair.
  • The lack of diversity across the body type and age of the models was disappointing, and looks dated.
  • The emphasis is on creativity, juxtaposition, and comfort, so there is little regard for creating conventionally flattering proportions.
  • The absence of Athleisure.
  • Sneakers are worn with EVERYTHING.
  • Pant, skirt, jeans and dress silhouettes are wide and roomy. Skinnies take a back seat.

Remember that despite what’s happening on the runways or in trend forecasts, retailers will continue to supply the market with body-con skinnies, stretchy leggings and Athleisure as long as consumers buy them. Designers do not have the power to control trends as much as we do collectively as consumers.

THE MOST IMPORTANT TREND: Do Your Own Thing (DYOT)

I used to call this the Individualism trend, but I’m changing it to DYOT. There is no one way to be stylish, and fashion is an overwhelming melting pot of sartorial choices. Increasing diversity in fashion with each passing year means that there is something for everyone, and that’s a good thing. Trends are no longer seasonal and fads no longer exist. Trends are becoming harder to define, and at some point they will be irrelevant. That’s why creating a signature style, milking the one you have, or evolving it over time is the most important and relevant trend of them all. Wear the trends, don’t wear them, pick the ones that tickle your fancy, remix them, or reinvent them — it’s all good. Do your own thing!

On to the colours. Imagine them in any wardrobe item, make-up colour, nail polish, or hair colour:

1. Earth Tones

Earth tones have been coming down the runway for years so the writing was on the wall. Finally, a long time since their last fashion moment, earth tones are mainstream at retail. They are THE palette for the season.

Think spice colours and all sorts of browns like mustard, turmeric, curry, rust, burnt orange, cognac, chestnut, saddle, toffee, coffee, cinnamon, milk chocolate, dark chocolate, tan, sand, taupe, khaki, stone, maize, oxblood, burgundy, bronze, tortoiseshell, gold, and animal patterns in these earthy shades.

2. Greens

It’s not about blue — it’s about green and in all its renditions. Colours as light as mint, moss, and sage are as trendy as bright emerald, lime and apple green. British racing green is fab and so are teals with their bluish tinge. Any shade of olive and forest green is great too, although I think of those as earth tones.

3. Purple and Fuchsia

Purple is there in pastel lilacs and mid-tone lavenders, blue shades of periwinkle, rich renditions of orchid, and dark shades of cranberry and eggplant. There is fuchsia, which is a lot more pink than purple, but not quite shocking pink. It’s a warm cousin to orchid, a statement stain of beetroot, and rather yummy.

4. Bright Red

Many, many collections continue to highlight bright shades of red worn head-to-toe, or as a distinctive accent. Think warm shades of orange-y tomato red, and cooler shades of fire engine and Christmas red. Red was remixed with every neutral and non-neutral because it works with everything.

5. Neon

The ‘80s continue to influence current trends, which accounts for some neon coming through. Neon brights in yellow, pink, green, orange and blue are there, but as a fringe trend, and often as an accessory, trim or sneaker. Though head-to-toe neon is not a bad thing, and was represented too.

I like the colours for the season. I’m not a big wearer of earth tones and animal print, but enjoy shades of cinnamon and cognac leather worn with sour brights, dark blue, light blue, and shades of white. Gold is my metal. Apple green is one of my favourite colours, and I’m all over bright shades of red. I adore shocking pink so fuchsia has to be bright if I’m going to wear it. As an ‘80s devotee, I like neon and hope citron (= citrus + neon) comes back with a vengeance. What I like best about the season’s palette is that I’ll happily remix clashing colours, cool tones with warm tones, and all sorts of brights, which means busloads of versatility and little chance of wardrobe orphans.

Over to you. What do you think of the season’s colours?

Eloquii Moto Jacket

Acne Studios Onita Hairy Alpaca Outerwear

Asymmetric Pleated Skirt

Outfit Formula: Graphic Tee and Blazer

Wearing a graphic tee under a blazer with bottoms is a tried and tested outfit formula, and a very popular one across genders. The blazer adds dressy and tailored polish, while the tee adds relaxed playfulness. It’s a great juxtaposition. 

Graphic tees are gaining popularity across all age groups because their slogans are clever and emotive. More and more people want to take a stand with what they like or believe in, and will wear a slogan tee to convey just that. Wearing the blazer over the tee also creates curious mystery because the slogan is a little hidden. That part is quite fun too.

Here are four ways to wear graphic tees with blazers, although the sky is the limit. Choose any colour palette and a graphic tee that is meaningful to you. Instead of a graphic tee, I wear a very lightweight sweatshirt under a blazer. My blazers are on the fluid side of tailored so the layering works just fine. Tuck, semi-tuck or untuck the tee.

1. Suit and Sandals

Combine a graphic tee with a pants suit and Bob’s your uncle. Add sandals that pick up a colour of the tee. Sub the pants for a skirt suit if that’s more your cup of tea. Adding boots, loafers, ballet flats, pumps or oxfords would work equally well.

MKT Studio Vendime Blazer

2. Textured Party Black

The fabness of this look lies in the textures of the items. Shine, feathers, bling, a matte glow, and a dash of colour are a yummy integration. Combine a black graphic tee with dressy black pants and black blazer. I like the ‘80s sharp shoulders of this one. Finish off the look with dressy footwear, glam jewellery, and a texture-rich bag.

BALMAIN Single Button Tailored Blazer

3. Tartan and Animal Print

This is my favourite of the four because I love tartan and like the pattern mix. Combine a graphic tee with a checked blazer and blue or black jeans. Finish off the look with animal print footwear and a bag that works with the outfit. Choose any patterned blazer if checks aren’t your thing.

DSQUARED2 Tartan Pattern Blazer

4. Joggers and Sneakers

Combine a pair of joggers with a graphic tee and blazer that works with the palette of the outfit. These are printed and pattern mixed, but feel free to sub them for solids. Finish things off with sneakers because they work so well with joggers. Add jewellery, eyewear, watch and headgear as desired.

Rag & Bone Bonnie Blazer

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

Read More

Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

Read More

Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

Read More

Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

Read More

Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Team Shop or Team No Shop

This week’s poll is about your shopping preferences, or lack thereof. I’ve been in the rag trade for 27 years, and assumed that people in the industry would enjoy shopping. That assumption was completely wrong. You can absolutely take an interest in fashion and style, enjoy looking your best, be well turned out, keep up with trends, and be a successful retail buyer — but not enjoy shopping for your own wardrobe.

You are on Team Shop if you enjoy shopping for your wardrobe. Shopping can take any form be it online, in brick & mortar stores, thrifting, clothing rentals, clothing swaps with friends, and even lots of online browsing. You are on Team No Shop if you enjoy fashion and style, keeping up with the trends, and being well tuned out but do not like shopping for your wardrobe at all. In a perfect world, your seasonal refreshers would be hand-picked for you by a your style angels every three months. The goods would be ready for you to wear at home, and each item would work flawlessly right away, and suit your needs and wants. You would never need to think about or do any shopping for your wardrobe again.

I bat for Team Shop because I love to shop, both in stores and online. I find the process relaxing, social, therapeutic and exhilarating. It’s the fun and unstressful part of my life. It’s a good distraction sometimes, and the hunt is almost as satisfying as wearing the item. Shopping is one of my hobbies, as well as something that I do professionally. I love to shop with others for their wardrobes even more than shopping for my own. I enjoy making the puzzle pieces fit, and helping people do something that they need to do, but don’t necessarily want to. You’d definitely be robbing me of a joy if I couldn’t shop for my own wardrobe and help others shop for theirs.

Over to you. Do you bat for Team Shop or Team No Shop? And tell us why. No batting for both teams, but feel free to sit this one out on the bench with comforting mac ’n cheese, a crunchy green salad, and lemon curdy pud for dessert.

Nordstrom, Remember Your Roots

I’ve shopped at Nordstrom since Greg and I moved to the US sixteen years ago, becoming a diehard fan of the department store. For myself, but also for my clients, who cover a wide range of body types, ages, preferences and lifestyles. Despite this diverse set of needs, we always end up at Nordstrom for something, be it a season’s worth of refreshers, or a single pair of knee-highs. Department stores are extremely handy to have on your shopping route, and I’m grateful that Nordstrom is on mine.

Nordstrom operates in a new retail reality that’s pretty mind-blowing. Many department stores have gone away. Online shopping has taken over the industry. Social media is driving the conversation, not merely following it. Consignment and thrift stores are gaining momentum. Personalized shopping packages are popular, and it’s possible to rent your wardrobe instead of owning it.

Nordstrom isn’t immune to all of this upheaval, and for much of the last decade the company has seemed on a mission to become more attractive to an audience hungry for budget fast fashion. No doubt feeling pressure from fast fashion retailers and fearing a declining relevance as the attention shifted from those with disposable income, to those with social media influence. They did so with pop-up stores and lines from social media influencers, but most importantly, through a change in their assortment. A shift to new brands, and new house brands at lower price points.

I’m all for moving with the times and expanding Nordstrom’s target market, but these changes came at the cost of the quality we were accustomed to seeing in Nordstrom merchandise. There just aren’t as many brands at Nordstrom who provide what used to be their staple diet: A cut-above-the-rest product that is value driven, reliably good, and fairly unique. And there are far more items where the fit is problematic, the fabric inferior, and the construction sub-par. Where the guts and the flair are taken out of an item so it can be sold at a lower price.

The biggest casualty has been stellar, value driven Nordstrom house brands like Classiques Entier, Sejour and Valette, with their gorgeous fabrics, thoughtful design and precision craftsmanship. Silhouettes were interesting, items oozed hanger appeal, and fits were magical. Prices weren’t budget, but they weren’t designer either, and you got what you paid for. My clients and I could rely on tried and tested Nordstrom house brands to provide important wardrobe building blocks and fill tricky wardrobe holes. We were prepared to pay more for the real value of a better product.

What I have also seen, alongside the shift to more disposable fashion at the low end, is a larger assortment of high price point designer wear. Of course, Nordstrom has always sold luxury, high status, exclusive brands and designers. But now it seems to be focussed on two ends of the fashion spectrum, with less in between for the value-driven customers who I think were Nordstrom’s loyal core.

Now, if these shifts were successful I would have mourned the loss of the brands I loved, but I would have also respected Nordstrom’s business decision. The thing is, I don’t think they have been successful. Nordstrom has been struggling to make sales targets. Markdowns are far more frequent, and stores have closed. In Seattle there are often more sales assistants than customers on the floor. 

So I’m left wondering about the wisdom of following the rest of the industry to a world of polarized price points. Budget fashion shoppers can get more, better fast fashion at any one of the number of retailers who do this so well. Shoppers looking for designer wear can go to more exclusive stores than Nordstrom. What made Nordstrom magical was the opportunity to get that value-driven core merchandise, with SOME fast fashion and SOME exclusive items to spice things up. You could go to Classiques Entier then shop the inexpensive B.P. department, and end up at Chanel on the ground floor.

Nordstrom, please stop chasing a customer who isn’t interested in you. Please bring your focus back to what you did so well — the product that lies between the extremes. Your loyal customers will return because these items were beautifully made, looked really good, and lasted over time. They were the reliable items we relied on Nordstrom to provide, season after season, year after year.