Archive for the 'Fabrications' Category

Wardrobe mix: patterns and solids

Tuesday, April 14th, 2009

The ratio of solid colours to patterns for the tops, knitwear, jackets, skirts and frocks in your wardrobe depends entirely on your individual style and aesthetic preferences. I see fully functioning wardrobes that are 90% patterned, and I know uber-stylish lasses who stick to solids. There is no generally applicable formula.

As far as clothing goes, I generally have a mix of both with a preference for solids (70% solid and 30% pattern). I’ve found that with a larger selection of solids, I can have fun with accessories like patterned scarves, checked pants, animal print bags and floral pins. I also like to use texture and colour blocking as a way of making my ensembles look interesting. Solids lend themselves better to those looks. Above all, I tire of a pattern more easily then I do of a solid colour, which is why I prefer to see less of it when I open up my closet door.

As much as I love the pure, clean-cut and versatile edge of solids, my wardrobe would feel bland without patterns. I love the surge of excitement that I get when I see one that I adore. And it’s always love at first sight (patterns never seem to grow on me – I either love them or I don’t). My favourite pattern of all time is polka dots in all its variations. There’s just something so fun, fresh, modern, graphic and retro about a spotty vibe. Next would be geometrics and after that abstract florals.

Over to you. What’s your mix of patterns and solids in your wardrobe, and are you happy with that mix? Do you feel you need a change? Do you even like patterns, and if so, which ones are your favourites?

Knitwear alterations

Friday, January 16th, 2009

I recently had a new piece of knitwear taken it at the waist. I took it to my alterations lady, who overlocked the side seams and re-steamed the garment for $10. I’m impressed with the results. It’s made a huge difference to the fit of the garment, making it less boxy and more streamlined. After the alteration it looks good both as is and belted at the waist.

Knitwear can be successfully altered at the side seams by a competent seamstress. In fact, I’ve never tried this, but you’ll probably be able to narrow the width of knitwear sleeves in the same way. This got me thinking. Are there ways to shorten the sleeve and hem lengths of knitwear? I’ve always thought that this can’t be done, but now I’m not so sure.

Make a bold statement with tartan

Thursday, October 30th, 2008

We see tartan, or Scottish “plaid” every year and this season is no exception. It’s trending a little more at the moment because of the strong ‘80’s revival and, for the most part, I’m enjoying the vogue.Jessica Bennett Gellar

I adore tartan skirts, scarves and shoes. I’d love to get a funky red tartan pencil skirt to wear with my biker jackets but haven’t found one yet. I like some tartan dresses, and also quite like the idea of tartan skinnies. Tartan coats and jackets can be fun and daring if the cut and colours are flattering.

But I’m not into tartan blouses, or button-down shirts. They bring back bad teenage memories of shoulder pads, dreadful frills, lurex thread and barn dances. If tartan tops in the 80’s weren’t bad enough, they continued to be one of my dreadful looks through the early ‘90’s when I sported the grunge vibe with an oversized tartan shirt and Doc Martens. It’s a look I can’t do again.

Tasteful tartan pieces make bold statements, which is probably why I’m attracted to them. Ignore what the magazines say and wear only one tartan piece at a time (the same way you would wear ruffled items and animal print). I’ll give tartan another bash if I find that pencil skirt. Does tartan tickle your fancy?

High-Waist Plaid SkirtBDG Fitted Buffalo Plaid TunicWool Plaid BlazerHigh-Waist Plaid SkirtAqua Women's Long Sleeve Plaid Ruffle ShirtKettle Black Flannel Shirt

Jackets, skirts and shoes in tartan appeal to me more than shirts. The latter are too much of a blast from the past.

10 ways to add texture to your ensemble

Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008

I adore clothing, shoes and accessories with interesting textures because they add aesthetic appeal and depth to an ensemble. Textures generate charm because they create contrast (the same way bold colours can do so). A monochromatic outfit looks infinitely better when the items are texture-rich.

A recent Nordstrom catalog did a brilliant job of summarizing ways in which you can add texture to your Autumn and Winter wardrobe. Here’s the lowdown (their categories, my words):

  1. A feminine blouse with ruffles creates a strong contrast against wools and tweeds. If ruffles aren’t your thing, try blouses in iridescent fabrications, lace, jacquards or satin.
  2. Booties with patent, mock croc, sueded or distressed leather trims do wonders to enhance an outfit.
  3. Coats made of mottled tweeds or abstract jacquards stand out. So do coats with leather trims and fabrics with sheen and luster.
  4. Cheeky pencil skirts with kick-pleats, cascading waterfall ruffles and front ruching details look three-dimensional. Purchase them in interesting fabrics and you’ve taken texture to the top.
  5. Trousers in menswear fabrics like checks and tweeds are retro and scream Autumn.
  6. Soft knit sweater dresses are luscious against stiff, structured woven sateen trenches. Add sueded boots and you’re in business.
  7. Cropped jackets in leather, tartan, velvet and boiled wool look particularly good against stiff jeans.
  8. Hosiery is the easiest way to add texture to a skirt or frock ensemble. Think delicate florals, geometric shapes, antique lace, crocodile patterns or micro fishnets.
  9. Simpler embossed or quilted satchels are a nice change to plain leather handbags with excessive hardware. I love cracked patent, but rice-paper pleather is just as fab.
  10. Statement jewelry like cuffs with oversized stones, antique brooches or vintage glass rings are alternative ways of adding decorative texture to your look.

For some reason Nordies have left scarves off their list. I’m adding them in because they can add a super contrasting texture to an outfit. I personally like something soft and silky with leather or pleather jackets.

I love outfits with interesting textures. It’s my preferred way of dressing because I’m a sucker for nice fabric. One of my personal wardrobe rules is that if I’m going to buy an item in a neutral colour, it has to be textured. It prevents me from getting bored with the item and gives rise to neutral ensembles with loads of sass.

Tweed and Patent with Denim Shine with Denim
Ruffles with Wool
Satin with Leather

Mixing and matching textures to create a contrast: (1) tweed and patent with denim, (2) shine with denim, (3) satin with leather and (4) ruffles with wool.

The pros and cons of knits and wovens

Wednesday, August 27th, 2008

It’s important to distinguish between knits and wovens in your wardrobe. Knits are fabrics like jersey, mesh and knitwear. Wovens are fabrics like denim, twill, tweed, raw silk and satin (refer back to my detailed post if you need to refresh your memory on the differences). Each fabric has a set of good and bad properties and there is room for both in your wardrobe.

The pros of knits:

  • Predominantly casual
  • Comfortable to wear and always stretchy
  • Easy to launder
  • Relatively inexpensive
  • Often wrinkle-resistant (e.g. mesh)

The cons of knits:

  • Lack a certain “crispness”
  • Never as dressy as a woven
  • Shrink and stretch-out
  • Look shabby fast (less stable fabric composition)
  • Can cling in the wrong places thereby spotlighting muffin top

The pros of wovens:

  • Tend to look “crisp”
  • Offer a smarter appearance and luxurious integrity
  • Add structure to an outfit
  • Look pristine for longer, seldom shrinking and losing shape
  • Have a rigid fabric composition that combats muffin top

The cons of wovens:

  • Not as soft as knits
  • Don’t always stretch and sometimes feel restrictive
  • Can be laborious to launder (dry clean and press)
  • Wrinkle quite easily
  • Relatively more expensive

Knitted tops are ideal for busty gals because they stretch comfortably over the bosom (no woven gaping). They also tailor the waistline in ways wovens won’t unless they’re altered, or contain a  stretch component. Wovens are a must for all bottoms because they create structure. Knitted bottoms are for lounging and gear only.

I have a strong preference for wovens. I love the way they look and last. I’m usually sporting woven tops, jackets, dresses and skirts. I often wear knitwear and sometimes knitted tops, but I always wear woven bottoms. I seem to be in the minority with my woven preference here in the US. Do you prefer wearing knits, and if so, why?

Your floral preference

Tuesday, May 20th, 2008

As predicted, there have been loads of floral designs on skirts, dresses, tunics and tops this season. I think there is a floral for everyone, even if you don’t like prints.

I tend to like floral patterns that are abstract or geometric. Sometimes they are nicest when the actual floral design is a little hard to discern. I don’t like florals that look like Sanderson floral upholstery, or ditsy country-flower prints. I tend to tire of this type of print quickly. I might like the freshness of the vibrant colours at first glance, but I’ve had enough of the look after two minutes.

If you prefer to keep your clothing print free, there is also the option of floral printed shoes. I like this option and last season’s Faryl Robin shoes are still going strong. Do you like floral patterns, and if so, what kinds?

Bailey 44 'Clean Sweep' Dress Nicole Miller Metallic Silk Dress Diane von Furstenberg 'Caledonia' Printed Wrap Dress

These are my kind of florals, but busier and brighter designs can be just as fab and very Summery. Horses for courses!

Wash jeans in vinegar to set the dye

Monday, April 14th, 2008

Dark-wash denim can rub off onto shoes, clothes and skin. This is especially annoying when you’re wearing white. You’d think that merchandise would fail quality control standards if dye bled off garments, but sadly this isn’t the case. Instead you’ll find a swing ticket attached to the garment stating something along the lines of “garment dye may stain clothing”. So what is a girl to do when we’ve painstakingly found the perfect pair of jeans?

Stephanie recently shared the answer on the forum: soak those jeans in a bucket of vinegar and water overnight. The acidity of the vinegar helps to set the dye. Wash and hang dry afterwards and you’ll notice less bleeding the next time you wear them. I tried this in January with my ink blue denim clamdiggers from Zara and it has definitely helped. The dye has set a little more, and my hands aren’t blue after a day’s wear.

I believe that you get your money’s worth when it comes to jeans. I have two pairs of ink blue Diesel jeans that were expensive. They have never rubbed off onto my clothes, shoes, handbag or skin. I suppose setting the dye is just too expensive a process for the manufacturers to use on less pricey jeans.

Comfort breakthroughs

Friday, March 28th, 2008

Fashion goes in cycles, but fashion technology and comfort are always improving. Here are four breakthroughs for which I am eternally grateful:

  • Denim: I cannot imagine a fashion season without jeans. They are the quintessential basic.
  • Stretch: We enjoy Lycra, Spandex and Elastine in so many of our clothes and I still take it for granted. Think of how uncomfortable a bra would be without elastic.
  • Knitted fabrics: Living in a world of woven fabric would be dreadful. Knits give us comfort and choice. Imagine wearing woven socks and woven underwear!
  • Comfortable shoes: They are still hard to find, but they do exist.

Silhouettes and trends come and go, but technological advancement is here to stay. Which comfort breakthroughs make your world a happier place?

Fabrics 101: knits versus wovens

Wednesday, March 12th, 2008

Apart from animal hide, all fabrics fall into one of two categories: knits or wovens. It’s not the fiber content that distinguishes them, it’s the manufacturing process. Yarns like cotton, viscose, rayon, wool, polyester, velvet or silk can either be knitted or woven.

  • Knitted fabrics are produced on huge knitting machines that “knit” different yarns together. These machines use exactly the same hand knitting method to make fabric. They knit a row of plain and a row of pearl at the speed of light to create a “stocking stitch” effect. You’ll see the familiar stocking stitch pattern on knitted items if you look closely. All knitted fabrics stretch. T-shirt fabric, sweatshirt fabric, knitwear (fabric that sweaters and cardigans are made from), jersey, mesh, toweling, felt and La Coste fabric are examples of typical knitted fabrics.
  • Woven fabrics are produced on huge looms that “weave” different yarns together by interlacing threads both horizontally and vertically. Woven fabrics do not stretch unless Lycra, elastic or spandex fibers are woven into the fabric at the same time. This is how button down shirts and jeans get their stretch. Linen, denim, cotton twill, satin, chiffon, corduroy, tweed and canvas are examples of typical woven fabrics.

It’s important to distinguish between knits and wovens because each fabric type has a set of good and bad properties. See if you can distinguish between what’s knitted or woven in your wardrobe.

There’s no getting away from the shine

Tuesday, October 9th, 2007

Patent is everywhere and it’s the third season in a row. From handbags to shoes, wallets to belts and jackets to jewelry, there’s no getting away from major gloss and shine this season. I like patent best when it’s cracked, distressed and textured. It’s the newer and edgier version of high shine at the moment and I love it’s urban appeal.

The trend is taken to new heights this Autumn with entire garments made of patent. Less extreme, but equally eye catching, are skirts, pants and coats that glisten graphically with patent trim. It seems that high shine has gone from fashion statement to fashion basic in less than 18 months. It’s quite the look in men’s and children’s shoes as well.

Patent remains one of the biggest trends around and I’d be surprised to see it diminish next year. How do you feel about the shine?

Kenneth Cole Reaction 'Catch Phrase' OxfordKenneth Cole Reaction 'Eye Catching' Slip-OnTed Baker 'Capone' Loafer

Fashion forward patent and cracked patent men’s shoes.

 
 
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