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It’s one thing to sit by a shady pool drinking iced tea all day when temperatures soar, but it’s quite another to look polished, professional and pulled together in hot weather conditions. Believe it or not, it’s possible to be cool, calm and collected instead of a sweltering, sticky mess in extreme heat. I learned how to dress for these conditions while living in Asia and Africa for a large part of my life.

Here are some suggestions as we in the Northern Hemisphere head into summer:

• Fabrications: Look for items made of lightweight natural fibers like cotton, linen, muslin and silk. Fabric blends with a high content of natural fiber are just as good. To my surprise, I’ve found that super thin, man-made, gauzy, mesh-like fabrics work well too.
• Colours: Shades of white are great for reflecting heat, but dark colours and patterned items are ideal for camouflaging perspiration spots. Your choice may depend on whether your day is like Cape Town’s dry, windy summer, or Singapore’s unbelievable, year-round tropical humidity.
• Sleeveless: Some people find it cooler to cover up from the sun in lightweight fabrics, while others prefer to wear garments with less coverage. I’ve found that as long as I use sunblock, going sleeveless is hands down the coolest solution.
• Breezy dresses: A sleeveless, flowing, knee-length, knit or woven, A-line dress that’s fitted on top and flared at the bottom is very ventilating. Nothing too tight or clingy, just tailored in the right places and super airy.
• A-line skirts: A knee-length skirt that floats away from the body is cooler than a pencil skirt. Add a sleeveless top and its built-in air conditioning.
• Walk shorts: Shorts that end around the knee, or a little shorter, are not nearly as cool as skirts and dresses but at a push they’ll work too.
• Voluminous tops: You might not like the sound of this but trapeze tops, empire cuts and banded tops in both knits and wovens are brilliant in the heat. Forget about defining your waist when you’re desperate and stick to a strong shoulder line instead. Add a short streamlined bottom and you’re in business.
• Single layer: Find items that look good worn on their own, sans a cami, cardi or second layer. If the neckline gapes, have it altered so that you’re happy with the amount of cleavage exposed.
• Sandals: Open shoes like thong sandals and gladiators with fewer straps are ideal.
• Practical hairstyle: Opt for a do that works in heat and humidity. Keeping it shorter is the obvious answer, but tying back longer hair in flattening ways is another solution.
• Frequent showers: It really helps to come home and start again. Cleaning up and popping on a fresh set of clothes works wonders.
• Slower pace: Instead of rushing around, take your time and don’t be desperate to hurry everything along. It sounds ridiculous and I was dubious about this suggestion at first, but it makes a huge difference.

I do pretty well in the heat if I dress accordingly, take multiple showers and keep my hair super short. My main challenge is combating frosty air conditioned interiors when I’m dressed for the 90 degrees plus outside. Layering flimsy clothing with cardigans, lightweight jackets and scarves is not sufficient when it’s 68 degrees indoors. My exposed feet freeze which makes me instantly cold. What I usually end up doing is dressing for cooler temperatures when I’m going to spend time in AC and taking my sweaty chances when I venture outdoors. I guess I’d rather feel too warm than too cold.

Over to you. What have I left out? How do you manage your style and wardrobe in extreme heat?

It isn’t unusual to be doubtful about a trend and then change our mind when we find the version that works for us and figure out how to wear it well. Sometimes it’s also a question of allowing our eyes to adapt to a particular look. Some trends never work for us because they don’t suit our body type or style preference, and that’s  fine too. They will work on someone else and we can appreciate them in that way.

That said, in the last seventeen years of my professional fashion life I have come across a few recurring trends that I don’t find flattering on anyone. Despite being the the number one frock in stores this season in all its bohemian and 70’s glory, relaxed maxi dresses is one of these trends.

Casual ankle length frocks worn with casual flats for either day or night just don’t work in my book. It’s too much fabric for daytime and the look swallows you up if you’re short. They also resemble nighties when worn at night and look odd when sported with dressy heels. However, if you have a bit of height, I love the look of a dressy ankle length gown or skirt for formal occasions matched with dressy high heels. I guess my challenge is that I find it hard to accept the ankle length frock as a casual thing. It’s not only hard to wear (knee-length dresses are infinitely more flattering) but it screams “formal”.

The question of casual maxi dress wearability keeps coming up on YLF now that it’s getting warmer and the style is everywhere in stores and on the street. So I went back to try the look AND had clients do the same, but my perspective has not changed. Nevertheless, if you like the way casual maxi dresses make you look and feel, I won’t hold it against you! I feel strongly about the guidelines that I evangelize, but this case feels more subjective than most.

The two maxi dresses on the left are casual and I just can’t get my head around the look. The two gowns on the right are evening formal and super dressy. I love that look.

My Spring 2009 wardrobe updates are complete and it’s onto Summer. I don’t need to stick to accessories this time round but Summers in Seattle are short which means that purchases will be minimal. In this neck of the woods, it makes more sense to save pennies for the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale which is less than two months away.

One of my favourite looks is to mix retro 50’s and 60’s inspired pieces with modern style. So it was love at first sight when I saw this fun, ladylike sleeveless sheath. The frock is a little shorter than I usually wear which actually makes it more versatile since it double duties as a tunic. Fabulous.

I can wear this item in at least four different ways, dressed both up or down. From left to right (click on the pictures to see a larger view):

1. On its own as a frock: Add chunky pearls, a clutch and heeled metallic wedges and you’re good for a dressy occasion. Wearing a necklace with this type of roll neck collar is subtle but effective. It’s not completely visible when you look in the mirror, but noticeable from other angles to passersby.
2. Over leggings: I adore leggings and wonder why the look isn’t as popular in America when it’s around every street corner in Paris, London, Hong Kong and Israel. Refresh your memory on why leggings are fab and how to wear the look. I’m willing to bet you won’t be disappointed once you get your head around the trend. Much softer than denim, easy to wear and cheap as chips. What’s not to like.
3. With clamdiggers: I’ve taken off the pearls, added a floral pin, silver flats and a vegan tote. Dressed down, a little more casual but just as pulled together.
4. Layered over skinnies with a cropped cardigan: Blue or black straight leg, skinny and boot cut jeans would have worked equally well, but it’s about white jeans in Summer time so viola. Add a cropped cardigan, an interesting wristlet and low heels for a funky and physically warmer outfit (a good idea on a chilly Summers day).

This particular style and colour of tunic dress might not be for you, but simply substitute the item for one that is to your taste and apply the same formula. It’s a versatile piece that’s bound to give you more bang for your fashion buck.