How to Prioritize a Shopping List

We diligently edit and review our wardrobes and put together a flexible shopping list, but we simply can’t afford to purchase everything at once. As a result we are forced to prioritize the items on our list. I think of shopping list priorities in terms of 3 levels. The highest priority items are at Level 1. These items are must-haves. Level 2 items are also important because they will have a big impact on the effectiveness of your wardrobe, but you can get by without them at a push. Level 3 items are not all that crucial. You may want them desperately, but in your heart of hearts you know that they are really just “nice to haves”.

Here are my thoughts on what should go at each level. Later I’ll throw in some examples of “what’s priority and what’s not” from my own shopping list. 

LEVEL 1 – Must-Have Items

  • Items that satisfy a climatic need: You’ve moved from Florida to Boston and you don’t have a Winter coat. All of a sudden you need a coat capsule, and the sooner the better. 
  • Items that satisfy a dress code need: You’ve started a new job and are not allowed to wear jeans to work. Your need for dressier non-denim bottoms shot up because your wardrobe of jeans and denim cutoffs will not work.
  • Items that satisfy a fancy occasion need: You have nothing to wear to your friends lavish wedding next month because your normal attire won’t do. Your hunt for a formal outfit is top priority. 
  • Wardrobe Essentials: Your wardrobe essentials are workhorses. Replace the ones that you frequently wear as soon as there is a wardrobe hole. 
  • New bras and undies when your size has changed: Underwear is instrumental in achieving good fit. Weight loss and gain means readdressing your bra and panty sizes before you readdress the rest of your wardrobe. 
  • Haircut: If you are unhappy with your do, it’s top priority to find a hair solution.
  • Eyewear: If you wear specs daily, it’s top priority that they are updated and the best that you can afford. 

LEVEL 2 – High Impact Items

  • Items that complete wardrobe capsules: Sometimes it’s a question of adding a few extra pieces to existing mix-and-match wardrobe capsules in order to extend their remixing potential. It might mean adding a couple of patterned tops, toppers in extra colours, light coloured bottoms, a few dresses, or a pair of two toned shoes. 
  • Items that change up the landscape of your wardrobe: Sometimes all it takes is a few on trend pieces to elevate the rest of your wardrobe. For example, when one of my clients added a modern black leather jacket to her wardrobe, her existing skirt, trouser and dress ensembles looked instantly updated. The same can be said of a pair of new-look baggy trousers, a statement tuxedo blazer with a low stance, a pair of pointy toe ankle strap pumps, boyfriend jeans, bomber jacket, or snake skin booties. 
  • Items that refresh your seasonal look: These are the pieces you add to your existing wardrobe within a fashion season to refresh your style.
  • Comfortable Shoes: Happy feet are always a high priority when you have fussy feet. 
  • Changes to or Duplication of Wardrobe Essentials: Although I listed them as Level 1 priority, they can also be next important. Sometimes, you want to change up the mix of wardrobe essentials while you continue to love and wear the ones in your wardrobe. For example, add a pair of black cigarette pants to your assortment of black essential bottoms capsule, which at the moment consists of a pencil skirt, wide leg trousers, harem pants and straight leg jeans. 

LEVEL 3 – Low Impact Items

  • Elusive Items: You all have items on your list that are hard to find. You look for them every season but are out of luck, and to some extent you’ve given up looking. They are not top priority anymore, but you’d welcome them into your wardrobe if you stumbled upon them. This is precisely how I found my ink blue military coat that I bought last Autumn. It found me! 
  • Items that satisfy a less important trend: There are trends that you love, so they get top purchasing priority because you want to try them right away. Then there’s the rest which moves further down the priority ladder.
  • Nice to haves: They are not a necessity and often a duplication of existing items. To some extent, they are part of your signature look so you’re always interested in adding more of the same to your wardrobe. Or you have a weakness for the item and love buying that type of thing. 
  • Loungewear, workout wear and wardrobe basics: Underwear requires annual replenishment unless your size has changed, in which case it’s Level 1 priority. Basics like socks, hosiery, sleepwear, camisoles, shapewear and sports gear also require annual attention, and for that reason they are usually Level 3 priority for the rest of the year. 

Replenishing my own jeans capsule this year was Level 1 priority because white jeans and faded blue jeans are wardrobe essentials and workhorses. Replacing my black and white flat oxfords with sci-fi silver darlings was Level 2 priority because the style integrity changes the landscape of my wardrobe, and my need for comfortable shoes is always high. Purchasing a white clutch, floral blazer and white moto vest are Level 2 priority because they are seasonal refreshers. Purchasing white tuxedo button down shirts as a new wardrobe essential are also Level 2 priority because I still love my basic white button downs. Items like the perfect modern classic ink blue wool blazer and low heeled knee-high dressy cream boots have been on my shopping list for years, and are at this stage Level 3 priority. As are trends like ankle strapped shoes and geek chic eyewear. 

I am continuously helping my clients to prioritize the items on their shopping list, not only because of budget constraints, but also because of time constraints. Purchasing items that are top priority first is the most effective use of time. And if top priority items become hard to find, we move onto Level 2 priority items because you just can’t purchase something that isn’t available.

Do you think explicitly about priorities in your shopping list. And if so, how do you prioritize?

Ensemble: Casual Vest with Skirts, Pants and Fun Shoes

The casual vest is a great idea for three reasons. First, it’s an ideal warm weather layering piece. Vests are the breezier option when jackets make us overheat. Second, vests are less restrictive than jackets, allowing for more arm movement. And third, they look cheeky. 

Here’s a casual vest formula that you can probably pull together with existing pieces in your wardrobe. The only item that you might need to purchase is the vest itself. All three vests can be worn over each of the tops. And those combinations can be matched with any of the bottoms and pairs of shoes.

The components of the formula:

  • Vest: Think utility vests, moto vests and military vests. Wear them tailored or oversized. Light shade neutrals get my top vote because they look particularly good in warmer weather. I prefer this style of vest worn open, but that’s not a must. 
  • Layering Piece: Go dressy with a silky blouse, or choose an androgynous layer like a button down shirt. A pullover, turtleneck or tee, either fitted or slouchy, are other options. And layering a vest over a sheath dress works extremely well. Choose solids or patterns. Tuck, semi-tuck or untuck the top. 
  • Bottoms: Think pencil skirts, flared skirts, jeans, cropped pants, cigarette pants, slouchy pants and shorts. Choose a bottom that works with the top half of the outfit and add a belt if desired. Fit and flare dresses can work under vests too.
  • Footwear: Set the mood with the shoes. Pointy toe pumps for a dressy vibe. Ballet slippers for a trendy look. High tops for the sporty gal. Simple booties for the no-nonsense lass who gets cold feet. And lace-up buckled boots for the steampunk tomboy. 

Finish off the outfit with accessories and a bag of your choice. A messenger bag is fab, but not your only casual option. Sport a daytime clutch, hobo or satchel if that’s more your cup of tea. 

As with all of the formulas, it’s your job to substitute the items with ones that are in line with your style persona. I’ve stuck to a neutral palette with a few on trend pastels because the combination feels fresh for Spring. But by all means throw in brights, earth tones and jewel tones. Or keep the palette completely neutral. 

Vests are a high Summer item for us Seattleites. Often, we need a lightweight sleeved jacket in Summer because it doesn’t get all that hot around here. But I really like the idea of a white moto vest to wear with faded blue and white jeans. Wearing the moto over my frocks will spring a little life back into them. And wearing a warmer under layer is a toasty option. My mind is ticking as I pop a casual white vest on my Summer shopping list.

Link Love: A Peek Into the Past

If you’d like to explore European designers and clothing styles throughout the centuries, then Europeana Fashion might be your cup of tea. This digital archive, scheduled to debut in May 2013, will offer online access to databases from museums and private fashion archives from 12 countries.

The Musée Galliera in Paris is currently showing “Models’ Bodies: The Crux of Fashion” — an exhibition that focusses on the model’s role in the fashion industry, with materials spanning the entire 20th century.

This year Missoni, the Italian fashion house famous for its graphic zigzag patterned knitwear, celebrates its sixtieth birthday. To mark this festive occasion they have released a short video that mixes looks from their hologram-inspired Spring ’13 collection and pieces from the house’s colourful archive.

Fab Links from Our Members

Need some music to cheer you up on rainy days? Laurinda just stumbled upon an idea by designer Dong Min Park: the Rain Drum Umbrella, an umbrella that creates different drum sounds.

Angie always suggests to her clients to size up in hose, or wear branded Commando hose in their regular size. She thought that Sally’s rundown of hosiery that does not cut into your waist and reduce blood flow was a good one.

From beach holidays to European business trips… Caro informs us that Travel Fashion Girl has a whole series of inspiring Polyvore sets that might help you out while putting together your next travel capsule.

If you, like Mia, always wonder what is in other shoppers’ bags then Canada’s Holt Renfrew department store offers you a chance to satisfy your curiosity on their blog.

Before YLF, Deborah wore one colour for many years. That’s why she particularly enjoyed this article on five people who are committed to wearing only one colour each… and it isn’t black!

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

Read More

Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

Read More

Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

Read More

Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

Read More

Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

How to Minimize Trouser Whiskering

In my guidelines on how to fit a classic pair of dress pants, I suggest a “grazing fit” over the hip and thighs. Not too snug and as far as possible, no whiskering. By whiskering I’m referring to the wrinkles created by fabric pulling around the crotch point, hip and thigh area. 

For years I’ve been fitting trousers on clients and fit models of all sizes and body types. And in my experience, whiskering is caused by two things:

  • Incorrect Fit: Fabric pulls across a body part when the fit is too tight. Or when the rise is too long or too short. Or when the cut is too straight. Or when the pocket linings get in the way. 
  • Overly Stretchy Fabric: Woven fabric with too much stretch is prone to whiskering, despite the fit. There is something about the way stretchy fabric drapes and clings that causes it to pull in an area that doesn’t look or feel too tight at all. 

Sometimes, it’s impossible to find a trouser fit that does not whisker, but the good news is that it can be minimized by following one or more of the tips below: 

  • Size Up: Find the size that grazes over the hip and thigh with few wrinkles or no wrinkles, which is often a size up from your usual size. DO NOT worry about the number on the label. Concentrate on achieving correct fit. If the waistband is too large because you sized up, that’s an easy alteration and well worth the investment. 
  • Choose Curvy Fits: These days retailers offer trouser cuts in both narrow and roomier cuts. Curvy fits are cut with more ease in the hip and thigh area to start off with, and can be the whisker-free solution for women with curvier figures.  
  • Choose a style with a shorter front rise: This sounds absurd, but sometimes a shorter front rise or a petite size can do the trick, especially if you are short waisted and/or short in the rise. 
  • Choose a style with a longer front rise: Sometimes, it’s not just about getting more ease in the hip and thigh area, but also about increasing the length of the rise. The extra coverage adds even more ease that “girdles” at the same time. This is especially effective if you are long in the rise. 
  • Choose sturdy fabrics: This is not always the case, but tailored trousers that are cut in weightier fabrications can whisker less than styles made in flimsy fabrications.
  • Choose fabrics with less stretch: There is no need to eliminate stretch altogether because some stretch can improve the way trousers drape over curves. But too much stretch can be a problem when it clings and pulls no matter what. 
  • Choose welted and slanted front pockets: Pocket lining can cause whiskering.This post on front trouser pocket styles that flatter with visuals will refresh your memory. 
  • Choose styles with front waist pleats: This one is counterintuitive, but hear me out. Granted, front pleated trousers can be unflattering on a wide midsection, but they can also be flattering on a small waisted and curvy bottom half. Pretty pear shaped ladies, I’m talking to you. Trousers with structured waistbands and waist pleats add ease on the hip and thigh area, which is one of the ways to avoid whiskering.
  • Choose styles with elastic waistbands: There are many fashionable and trendy baggy and slouchy trouser styles with elastic waistbands and tapered leg silhouettes.The elasticated style is cut with extra ease through the tummy, hip and thigh area, which once again minimizes whiskering. 

Finding a pair of trousers that fits can be time-consuming and difficult. Hopefully it’s a question of putting just one, two, or a few of these tips into practice, and all of a sudden you like wearing trousers all over again. Feel free to bring up additional trouser fit challenges in the comments section and let’s get you sorted.

Your Position on the Pattern Party

Wearing patterned items and pattern mixed outfits was extremely popular in 2011 and even more so in 2012. Runway shows and retailers showed an explosion of patterns and virtually every catalogue and lookbook showcased pattern mixed outfits in some form or another. It was quite the Pattern Party. 

As I look onto Spring and Fall 2013, patterns and pattern mixing are still strong trends, although probably not as as strong as the two preceding years. After all, parties do eventually come to an end. So my question is whether you’re all pattern partied out, or do you still have pattern energy to spare. 

I’m slightly pattern partied out and need to rest up. I have lots of patterns across all items in my wardrobe that I will happily continue wearing. Patterns make me happy, pack that extra punch, and I especially enjoy wearing patterned belts and footwear. I also enjoy pattern mixing my outfits. But after I’ve found my floral jacket and replaced my worn out striped Summer pullover, that will be it. If I do add more pattern it will only be through footwear and belts. 

How about you?