How to Wear Colours That Don’t Love You Back

We all have flattering colours that make us look fresh, healthy and vibrant by complementing the colours in our hair, eyes and skin tone. And then there are the colours that makes us look dull, overpowered, sickly or severe. 

Personal colour analysis by a professional (often an image consultant) is one way to pinpoint a set of colours that works well for us. Another is to work through a book like “Color Me Confident” by Veronique Henderson and Pat Henshaw. If you are battling to find colours that work and feel overwhelmed by all the options, then this will be an interesting process and a helpful starting point. It might help you to build a wardrobe around a few focused colour palettes and simplify the mix and matchability of your pieces. 

But what happens when you don’t like the colours that were suggested to you, while the colours that you love don’t make the list at all. Or when you like to reflect seasonal trends in your style but the fashionable colours aren’t on the list? Fashion is about fun, and where is the fun in excluding colours from your repertoire?

Colour relativity to the rescue!

We see colours in relation to each other and not as isolated variables. Colours “change” when they are surrounded by other colours. And I don’t mean we just think about them differently, I mean that we actually “see” something different. Greg brought up some interesting optical illusions when I mentioned that I was writing about colour being relative. It’s such an interesting phenomenon that I’m going to go on a little tangent.

Consider this picture.

Illusion 1

See the gradient in the inner rectangle, how it goes from light to dark? Well, there actually isn’t a gradient at all. That is actually one uniform colour. Your brain is telling you there is a gradient because of the surrounding colours, but it isn’t there.

Here’s another optical illusion where we get the colours wrong:

Illusion 2

See the two different shades of grey on the A and B squares? Another trick question, because those squares are exactly the same shade of grey. This is so hard to believe that you might be tempted to save that image onto your computer and check for yourself. Try it! Or click here to see the deconstruction of the illusion.

Greg tells me that all of the cells on our retina that “detect” colours are connected. So what one cell “sees” is directly affected by what the cells around it see. In addition to that the brain tries to compensate for lighting conditions and often makes mistakes (like the second illusion above) when doing so.

Now, I’m not at all suggesting that we should be wearing grey checks and gradients. These optical illusions really just illustrate how colour perception is way too complicated to be represented by a single set of good colours. The important thing is that imperfections in our perception of colour open up many possibilities.

Here are three simple strategies that use the relativity of colour to make it possible to wear colours that aren’t on your list.

Combine Them with Your Best Colours

Recently I mentioned that although grey is not one of my best colours, it springs to life and becomes flattering if I wear it with a sour shade of citron and bright white. It’s like waving a magic wand over the grey. Same goes for a muted blush pink that only works when I wear it with a crisp pastel pink, tomato red, or black and white. 

Wear Them in a Smaller Surface Area

One of my clients loves black, but it does not love her back. She feels that it is harsh and aging against her complexion. So she sticks to wearing black on smaller surface areas like handbags, belts and footwear, keeping navy and shades of grey as her dark neutrals for clothing. She’ll also wear black when it’s incorporated into a pattern with her best colours like French blue, purple and teal.

Similarly, I look awful in burgundy, but I will wear it in small surface areas when it’s incorporated into a pattern, like in the burgundy in this twinset.

Wear Them Away from Your Face

Wear colours that don’t look fab against your face on the bottom half of your body. One of my clients wouldn’t dream of wearing stone and dove grey as a top or topper because the shades wash her out and make her look sleepy. But she’ll happily wear them in a skirt, jeans, pair of trousers, or as footwear.

Think further than the confines of your prescribed colour palette. Your so-called “best” colours are merely a starting point. Like so much of the advice we hear about style, they should be seen as guidelines, not rules. You can wear pretty much any colour you care to if you wear it in the right way.

Theory Finds and Comfort Footwear

I’m a big Theory fan because their brand is exceptionally crisp, clean, simple and angular. And the quality is generally impeccable. I have many Theory pieces that I love every time I haul them out. They are pricey, but so far I’ve found the investments worth it. The brand runs small, so you might need to size up. 

These versatile Theory pieces for Fall can be mixed and matched with cheaper items, if you fancy the idea of high-low style. And because happy feet are a must in my world, I threw in some comfortable footwear options that complement the Theory pieces.

  1. Theory Laura Mixed Media Jacket: A mixed media piece that looks as good dressed up for the office with a pencil skirt and patent pumps, as it does remixed with faded denim and biker boots. 
  2. Theory Elizabeth Wool Blend Coat: We haven’t talked about it yet, but this is the coat shape for 2013. Masculine, unshaped, low stance, and good drape. That’s the best shade of camel I’ve seen in years. 
  3. Theyskens Theory Paction Fruma Slim Stretch Pants: Sport a pair of fluid straight leg trousers to the office as a way of changing up your bootcuts and skinnies style. These went into my shopping cart because they are full length (FINALLY), and I fancy the idea of dark blue trousers to wear with my many black tops. 
  4. Theory Jillian Wool Sweater: The fit of this pullover is stunning. Tailored, yet roomy, and very comfortable. 
  5. Theory Avano Stretch Wool Pants: It’s awfully rare to see ruby coloured trousers. A breath of fresh air amidst a sea of grey and black. 
  6. Theory Dancey Woven Blazer: Here’s the blazer to match the Avano trousers. A one button closure with a low stance is the trendiest blazer styling at the moment. 
  7. Born Zowie Boot: A tough shootie to wear with jeans and pants. Also available in brown. Read the rave reviews. 
  8. Söfft Abbott Pump: Low-heeled, interesting, and pointy toed. Super cushioning footbed, and also available in textured cinnamon, copper and pewter. You might need to size up.
  9. Pikolinos Verona Oxford Pump: A colourblocked heeled oxford to wear with skirts and dresses. Fun with a moto jacket and textured hosiery. 
  10. Arche Musaca Boot: Feels like butter and a sleek second skin on the foot. Check out the deep red.
  11. Everybody Fedora Bootie: A tailored Beatle bootie with an edgy zipper. Check out both shades of burgundy. 
  12. Corso Come Model Bootie: Ladylike, refined and modern. I wish they weren’t so high so that I could wear them. Please wear them for me. 
  13. Tsubo Fie Bootie: A pointy toe with a roomy toe box. Slightly sporty but still pretty dressy. Also available in black and brown

We’ve been starved of dressy brown footwear options for years, but they’re available this season. Make sure you grab a pair if they were a wardrobe hole.

Theory Laura Mixed Media JacketTheyskens Theory Paction Fruma Slim Stretch Wool PantsTheory Dancey Woven BlazerEverybody Fedora Bootie

My Shopping List for Fall 2013

Fall collections are in stores and I couldn’t be happier about it because Autumn is my favourite season. Living in Seattle, we have nine months of what I think is cold weather, which makes the next four months the most important shopping period of the year. I’m excited to put together my flexible Fall shopping list, which includes items to fill wardrobe holes, new trends and replenishment items. I’m sure there will also be a few unexpected delights along the way.

After kickstarting my cold weather wardrobe with five pieces from the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale, this is what I have on my list so far: 

  • Pink Wool Coat: This was the first item on my list after Celine’s 2013 Fall Collection in Feb. I bat for Team Pink, and am happy to go either powder pink, bubblegum pink, or bright shocking pink for my next colourful Winter coat. We need bright coats in our forever grey climate so this is a must. I’m not sure whether I want a trendy oversized cut, or a ladylike tailored silhouette. Either way, it’s going to be fun mixing pink with black, white, grey and tomato red. 
  • Round Shouldered Top or Topper: This interesting shape of sleeve and shoulder line is huge on runway shows, but it’s still fringe at retail. And the prices of these items are high because of the current exclusivity. I’m not sure I want to spend lots of pennies on this trend just yet, but we will see how the season shapes up. 
  • Long Sleeved Wool Sheath Dress: Apparently knee-length sheath dresses with long sleeves are trending for Winter. If that’s the case, I am so in if the fabrication has a warm handle (i.e. feels “Wintery”). I’m also in if it’s a two-piece dress because I love that trend too. 
  • Ink Blue Trousers: They must be wool, full length, fluid, and tapered at the hems to combat nasty weather. I think I just found them at Theory, and want to wear these with lots of black and white. 
  • Fitted Turtlenecks: This wardrobe essential needs seasonal replenishment because I wear my turtlenecks into the ground. I need one in ink blue and another in Winter White. Possibly cashmere, but merino wool will work just as well. 
  • Dark Blue Handbag: I just passed on my ink blue snake skin bag with shiny hardware so this is a wardrobe hole. I want a dark blue bag with minimal hardware and in a very modern shape to complement my black tops and toppers. 
  • Flat White Beatle Booties: A gal has to have an impractical pair of flat white booties to stay sane and make her smile during our long rainy season. 
  • Heeled Black Booties: These must be high-shine, low heeled, dressy, sleek and with a fairly pointy toe. 
  • Dressy Knee-High Boots: I’ll take any colour at this point, except dark brown. It’s really hard to find dressy boots with a low heel that are comfortable and fit my 13 inch calves. I’m willing to pay a pretty penny for them if only there were options to choose from. This remains a highly elusive item, so thank goodness I have a pair of tall black patent boots in their eighth year that I can wear into another season. 

I’m always in the market for warm and fun knitwear, but don’t have specific styles in mind other than simple turtlenecks. I’m also toying with the idea of a patterned pencil skirt, patterned trousers, solid wool trousers, embossed straight leg jeans, a red leather jacket, and a short woolly jacket (as long as the weights are warm and don’t feel like Summer pieces). I am not on the market for casual footwear, blouses, shirts, basic jeans, scarves or underwear because I am more than covered in those departments. 

As far as colours go, for neutrals, I’ll continue with my black and shades of white theme, while adding in more ink blue. I love my usual brights like citron, tomato red, shocking pink, and bright turquoise, but I’ve also enjoyed adding shades of blue to my wardrobe, from light pastels to French blue and cobalt. And then there’s the blush capsule that keeps on growing. Heck wouldn’t it be nice to have a pair of blush pink wool trousers to pair with my leather jacket? Maybe those will miraculously find me too. 

Over to you. What’s on your Fall and Winter shopping list?

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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A Strict Suit with Multiple Toppers

Boyfriend jeans, straight legs, cigarette pants, and slouchy trousers have ruled my style for what feels like forever. All the while, my bootcuts have been waiting ever so patiently. Well, now they’re getting some action. I woke up recently and desperately wanted to wear wider hems. I needed a change, and feel grateful that I can shop my closet to refresh my trouser style. 

I’m in the minority in loving a good suit. The simplicity and strictness of the style, the angular lines, dressy factor, structure, androgynous integrity, and decidedly less-than-whimsical attributes of a trouser suit appeal to me. I don’t feel frumpy, conservative, uncomfortable or unapproachable in a beautifully made modern classic suit at all. I feel powerful and modern. That’s why I choose to wear a suit even when it isn’t a requirement. 

Suit Full

Suit Side

I’ve had this charcoal pinstripe, all-season wool suit by Theory for years, and fall more in love with it every time I wear it. Its fluidity, luster of the fabrication, movement of the trousers, and overall high quality make it a joy to wear. Pop on a top, scrunch the sleeves, add the finishing touches and you’re good to go. 

Jumper Full

Jumper Full

Jumper Close

At the moment I’m into pairing my strict suit with soft pieces that drape, like this short sleeved citron mesh pullover that I bought at Club Monaco at the beginning of the year. The welt allows me to faux tuck the top over a belt which adds a relaxed vibe to the suit. Although I used to pair classic shirts and silky blouses with my suit, wearing roomy knitwear or a graphic T-shirt feels fresh and more fashionable. 

Grey is not my colour because it looks blah against my complexion. But as soon as I wear it with “my flattering colours”, I’ve injected life into the grey. That’s why it’s important to see colours in relation to each other and not as isolated variables.

I often choose citron and white to liven up grey. White is a bright that works well for my style, and here a white belt and low heeled pointy toe pumps (also seen here) add a trendy touch to the outfit. 

Bag

The new blue clutch was a birthday gift from a friend and it became a workhorse this season. The paper bag closure is fun and the colour launches me into orbit. The mid-tone, almost pastel hue feels on trend matched with grey, citron and white. The clutch shape injects newness into a classic suit ensemble. I finished off the outfit with retro specs, silver watch and wedding ring.

Citron Blazer Full

Citron Blazer Close

The beauty of a suit is that you can remix the trousers and jacket with other separates. I’ve created less formal outfits by swapping out the grey blazer with a citron blazer (also seen here) and a mixed media denim jacket (also seen here). The yellow blazer is tonal against the citron pullover, a little preppy, and less strict than the suit jacket. The denim jacket adds a slightly tough edge, a playful element, and dresses down the formal bottoms. And so begins another wardrobe capsule.  

Denim Jacket Close

Denim Jacket Full

I wore the denim jacket rendition out to casual supper with friends last night, while I’d wear the other two renditions while working with clients, at fashion week, or to a dressier restaurant or event. I wear my bootcut hems as long as they can go, skimming the surface of the ground. I love that elegant length and will not wear bootcuts any shorter. So I need dry weather for this outfit to avoid soggy hems. A sunny September has been forecast and if the weather plays along, these bootcuts will be seeing a lot of action.

Ba Bar

Fab Find: Nine West Junia Bootie

I love pointy toe footwear but I’m very particular about the shape and length of the point. If it’s too pointy, the visual effect looks overly severe. If it’s too long, your foot looks disproportionally long. And if a point is too short and round, it loses its elegance. I’m also not fond of pointy toe shoes that are chunky and/or platformed. Of course, I’m merely describing my own aesthetic preference, and there is no right or wrong pointy toe shape. 

The Nine West Junia bootie is a simple dressy ankle boot with a three inch heel and sleek ankle fit. Its pointy toe shape isn’t too long, stubby or severe. I found it quite comfortable, but the heel is above my comfortable height. It runs small so size up at least half or a full size. Apart from black, taupe and animal print, it’s also available in chocolate brown, which is an elusive shoe colour these days. I would not recommend this bootie for wider feet. 

Wear it with bootcut trousers, tapered trousers and jeans, cropped pants, boyfriend jeans, baggy shorts, skirts and dresses. Although tall boots are making a fashionable comeback, it seems the bootie trend is unstoppable.

Nine West Junia

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