We’re usually pulling together our outfits first thing in the morning, or laying them out the night before. In Winter time that means it’s dark outside and we’re relying on artificial light when we assess the outfit. The problem is that things might look very different in the light of day.

Since our daytime outfits will mostly be seen in natural light, ideally that’s what we should use when we assess the colour combination. I know I’ve been caught out thinking that a set of colours worked well on a dark morning at home, only to be annoyed later in the day when the colours didn’t work nearly as well in natural light. I find this to be especially true when combining tonal colours of similar intensity.

The same goes for purchasing items in stores. Make sure that you like the colours against your complexion in natural light. I’ve occasionally returned something because the colour that seemed so right in store lighting looked very different in the light of day.

The simple way to get around the problem is to plan ahead and assess outfits in natural light. Failing that, you can minimize the likelihood of a strange combination by sticking to known colour combinations, or choosing combinations that have higher contrast.

Blogger, personal stylist and photographer Ksenia Verstunina (24) moved from Russia to Istanbul five years ago. On her blog Agoniiya she writes about fashion and lifestyle, and you get to know “her new city” through her eyes. Fun! Ksenia’s style is a trendy mix of girly casual outfits with tomboy touches, and flirty, more dressy looks. She loves sneakers, statement jewellery, bright colours and lipstick, and adores a conversational print. Our blogger knows exactly how to flatter her figure, but also isn’t afraid to play around with looks that aren’t conventionally flattering.

“I prefer casual style, and comfortable pieces. It all depends on my mood, but I love to experiment with clothes. I get inspiration from fashion images, day-to-day life, and the people surrounding me. I absolutely love irregular outfit juxtapostions, and the fact that there is no ‘wrong way’ to do fashion nowadays. Everything goes. I was born and raised in Russia, and have been living in beautiful Istanbul for the last 5 years. I cannot say that my style has changed a lot, but I have begun to pay more attention to accessories, because accessorizing is a big thing in Turkey.  I’ve also realized even more how much I like sports shoes! And I love the climate in Turkey: we can wear what we want and don’t need to be wrapped up in a fur coat. That’s definitely a major advantage.”

This is a great example of the “new” defined waist with belted long cardigan look that was all over the runways for Spring/Summer 2015. Ksenia reins in the volume of her unstructured hooded cardigan with a loosely tied gold chain belt. Cinching the belt a little loosely, opting for a medium gauge knit, and wearing a thinner layer underneath helps to minimize bulk. Our blogger also creates outfit structure by pairing the voluminous cardi with baby bootcut jeans that are fitted on the thigh and knee. The patchwork-esque white splotches add a fun ’80s feel to the outfit. Simple black block-heeled booties tie in with the black and beige colour blocked bag. Ksenia’s gold bracelet echoes the design of the chain belt. The gold works well with her blond hair, and adds a refined yet tough touch to this casual outfit.

From classic or understated, to arty, eclectic or earthy, an animal print blouse is a timeless piece that works for virtually every style persona. Here, Ksenia built an on trend boyfriend jeans look around her statement blouse. I love the contrast between the rich golden browns of the tiger print and the light blue denim. Fresh and eye-catching. Together with the velvety finish of the blouse, the pajama-esque fabric of the jeans provides soft textural interest, which is then offset by the glitzy gold stud buttons on the top. Keeping the shorter length top untucked over slim fit boyfriend jeans creates flattering outfit proportions. The high-heeled peep-toe pumps have a thin ankle strap, and are low contrast against Ksenia’s skintone, which diminishes cutting horizontal lines. The deep brown hat adds playful charm. An oversized black clutch, bold red lip, and hard-edged earrings finish off the look. 

There’s nothing like a double dose of florals to brighten up a cold and rainy Spring day. For this arty casual look, our blogger pairs a sassy sweatshirt with black skinnies tucked into wellies. Both feature a bold, oversized rose print, but with different “intensity”. The pants have an all-over floral print in very vibrant colours, while the rose print on the sweatshirt is more subdued in colour and limited to the top half of the garment. I like the intentional contrast between the two. The classic grey coat is a belted style worn open to create a long line. The antique brooch is a sweet, feminine touch that fits the arty vibe of the look. The bright red newsboy cap and rain boots with motorcycle vibe add cheeky spunk. Ksenia’s black and beige tote makes its second appearance. Yay for Team Repeat.

A white-on-white outfit after my own heart. I don’t think I’ll ever tire of sporting white from head to toe. The effect is soft, clean, pretty, and Summery. Our blogger dresses up a pair of skinny jeans with a strict white button-down shirt. Leaving the shirt untucked, and rolling the sleeves, gives it that effortless, “borrowed from the boys” vibe. The big, multi-layered necklace, same style earrings and green nail polish provide girly contrast. Her choice in footwear makes the look extra fashionable. Ksenia is wearing three-strap Birkenstocks in off-white. I love how the chunky sandals ground the look, while creating a subtle colour contrast against the optical white of the clothes. Oversized sunnies and a neutral lip complete this tomboy look.

There’s something delightfully sixties about this look. It must be the combination of the hot pink, bouclé-effect on the coat, oversized sunnies, and our blogger’s ‘do. Ksenia is wearing modern volume on volume with a full pleated above-the-knee skirt and fluid fit, slightly cropped top. The crisp black and white is the perfect background for the shocking pink topper. The round shoulder and stand-up collar give the roomy coat structure. Black opaque hose and black suede lace-up booties that fit snugly around the ankle create a long leg line. A gold and white colour blocked crossbody with chain strap feature and oversized tassle echoes the pleats in the flirty skirt.

Ksenia doesn’t shy away from colour. She wears pastels, warm shades, and jewel tones with equal exuberance. Here she is sporting an Autumn colour palette look that could come straight out of a magazine. Silky patterned trousers in a rich brown are dressed down by pairing them with a super faded denim shirt that is left wrinkled for an extra casual effect. Piles of pearls and chunky gold necklaces add more girly fun. The knee-length wool coat in a beautiful marigold amps up the chic factor. The cropped trousers are tapered to a flattering length, and showcase dark brown suede wedges that bookend Ksenia’s elegant cloche hat. A bronze tote adds sheen, and perfectly complements the Fall colour scheme.

Be sure to check out the rest of our blogger’s fab and fun outfits over at Agoniiya, but first let us know in the comments what you think of Ksenia’s on trend, casually polished style.

In my trend forecast for Spring and Summer 2015 I mentioned that defining the waist is making as much of a fashion statement as surrendering the waist with fluid and oversized fits. This does not mean that we are back to body con silhouettes. It is more about belting roomy silhouettes at the natural waist, or tucking fluid pieces into bottoms with structured waistlines. That way there is ample movement in the outfit, which is not the case in body con clothing. 

I’ve been pinning directional and trending outfits across all the shows for Spring 2015. Lets take a peek at how the waist was defined on the runways: 

1. High-waisted sash belt over cropped pants with layering tee and boxy cropped jacket.
2. Skinny belt over long, drapey and lightweight layers.
3. Double waist belt over a double shirtdress.
4. Waist belt and bow over ruffles.
5. Paperbag pleated trousers with soft tucked shell, ‘80s style.
6. Crisp tailored belted jacket over romantic ruffles.
7. Another crisp tailored belted jacket over ankle pants.
8. Fluid top tucked into a maxi A-line skirt.
9. Soft fit-and-flare dress.
10. Soft blouse tucked into a structured pencil skirt.
11. Dramatic fluid shirt tucked into an equally dramatic flared midi with skinny belt and strappy ballet flats. I want this outfit.
12. Tucked plaid shirt tucked into a flared midi with earthy waist belt.
13. Tonal High-Waisted Structure.
14. High-waisted wide legs with roomy shell top.
15. Ruffles tucked into ruffles.
16. Peplum blazer worn over a fluid sweater with slouchy capris and sneakers.
17. Belted colour blocked midi dress.
18. Dramatic sash over multiple avant-garde layers.
19. Soft blouse with a self fabric belt.
20. Another soft shirtdress.
21. High-waisted space age fabness.
22. Conventionally flattering skirt suit with webbing belt.
23. Broad gold waist belt with ruffles, shorts and flat oxfords.
24. Skirt over pants with tucked blouse and tuxedo jacket.

The clothing isn’t tight. For the most part there is a fantastic sense of ease and movement in the silhouettes. This is true on both the top and the bottom parts of the outfits despite the waist definition. Waist structure is achieved by silhouettes that are tailored on the hips and high on the waist when they aren’t belted. The combinations look fresh and complement the slouchy trend. 

I love the crisp belted jacket styles and will try those on when they hit retail. They might add a nice change of silhouette to my jacket capsule. But they aren’t without their drawbacks. First, they look best belted, which makes the look less versatile and more constricting. I’m used to keeping my jackets open so I’d need to get my head around that way of styling again. Second, they can bunch below the waist when you sit down, so you need a style that’s shorter or cut-away at the hem. 

I love shirtdresses and would wear a soft belted version in a heartbeat. But belting lots of layers at the waist is uncomfortable, a little bulky, and fussy because the layers shift around. I do like the idea of tucking fluid pieces into high-waisted trousers because I’m an ‘80s gal at heart. I also love wearing belted low rises and will enjoy the variety. Like I mentioned earlier this week, I love the look of fashionable slouch, but prefer a mixture of refined tailoring along with it.

I’m not sure how my clients will react to belting multiple layers or belted jackets. But I have a hunch that soft belted shirtdresses and tucking fluid blouses into structured bottoms will go down well. High-waisted bottoms can be very girdling and comfortable, and smooth out the midsection. Tucking into them however, shortens an already short waist, which gives gals with longer torsos a little more wiggle room. 

Over to you. What’s your take on the “new” defined waist?

Sophia Webster and J.Crew continue their collaboration, an interesting H&M book will hit the shelves next month, Rakuten launches a US fashion website, and more news from the style trenches this week.

• World-renowned fashion designer Oscar de la Renta passed away on Monday at age 82.
• Sophia Webster and J.Crew continue their collaboration with a seven-piece holiday footwear collection.
• Rakuten, the “Japanese Amazon”, has just launched a US fashion site that “blends shopping with entertainment”.
• A new book chronicles the history behind every H&M designer collaboration to date. 
• The Adidas Originals collection by Mary Katrantzou will be available on November 15, and this week we got a first look at the kaleidoscopic designs.
• Gap is teaming up with Kate Spade New York and Jack Spade for a limited-edition GapKids holiday collection.

Fun Fashion Fact

Did you know that British chemist Sir William Henry Perkin accidentally discovered the colour mauve while trying to find a synthetic substitute for the antimalarial drug quinine. He originally named it “Tyrian Purple,” but soon changed it to mauve or mauveine, which became the world’s first synthetic dye.