The psychology of style

As a fashion stylist with training in both psychology and fashion design, I found myself marrying both directions in a discipline I call “fashion therapy”. I stumbled across an article in Psychology Today that really resonates with this philosophy. My views on the true meaning of style are captured perfectly by the author:

“style is a life-affirming expression of your character and spirit, a conviction that you are worth knowing, worth looking at and can present yourself well”.

I believe that personal style has two aspects: the internal and the external. Your personality and attitude towards life makes up the internal part; and how you physically present yourself to the world makes up the external part. They are inextricably linked. Time and time again, I’ve seen what a little magic on the outside can do to bring out the magic on the inside. I see this happening with my own clients, forum members and my underprivileged clients at Dress For Success (where I work as a volunteer dresser).

In a world of varying body types, countless retailers and overwhelming clothing choices, it’s no wonder that many of us are lost when it comes to dressing and grooming our bodies in the best way. So, in an effort to create clarity within this fashion chaos, we started youlookfab.com. Dressing well and the ability to express a great sense of style through clothing are things that can be learned. As the author in the article states:

“Fashion is in the clothes. Style is in the wearer”.

This is why we question the latest fashions and discuss how they can be worn with style. Even though I talk about fashion every day, YLF is more a style blog than a fashion blog.

Yves Saint Laurent said “fashion fades but style is eternal”. Coco Chanel said “Beauty is no guarantee for happiness, strive instead for elegance, grace and style”. When we look good we feel fabulous, but by the same token, feeling good is an essential ingredient of good style.

Are you long-waisted?

When the distance between your shoulders and natural waist is longer than average, you are long-waisted. Gals who fit this description should wear clothing that shortens the torso, raises the waistline and lengthens the legs. Here are a few guidelines:

  • Wear a waist-cinching belt in a contrasting colour. This breaks up the length of the torso. Belts that match the colour of your bottoms are particularly effective.
  • Wear high belted style jackets, coats and blouses. Wrap blouses are especially good.
  • Layer with contrasting top colours to visually break up the torso.
  • Wear tops that taper above the natural waist like empire lines.
  • Wear tops tucked into pants and skirts with mid to high rises to raise the waistline.
  • Look for tops with horizontal detailing like stripes, yokes and exaggerated collars. This raises the eye upward and the waistline too.
  • Wear skirts at the knee and with a heel to balance out the leg line.
  • Wear pants extra long and with heels (my PPL theory).
  • Avoid pants with cuffs. They shorten the leg line and draw the eye downwards.

As usual, this is about restoring balance by putting the emphasis in the right place.

Lauren by Ralph Lauren Patent Leather Belt French Connection 'Calamity' Blouse Diane von Furstenberg 'Tokalau' Printed Silk Jersey Wrap Dress

Left: An empire blue top with waist-cinching white belt over a pair of white pants shortens the torso beautifully. Middle: A top tucked into a high-waisted pair of pants or skirt does the same. Right: The empire line shortens the length of the torso by focusing above the natural waist.

Clamdiggers: the Summer skinny

Clamdiggers are the warm weather alternative to skinny and straight leg jeans. They are a capri that fits snugly through the thigh and knee, finishing somewhere just below the knee, or on the widest part of the calf. They’re worn in the same way as skinnies but at a ventilating cropped length.

Dress clamdiggers up or down with heels or flats and a top that works for your body type. They are an obvious choice for rectangles and inverted triangles, but don’t think that you can’t wear the look if you’re a little curvier at the bottom. My hot hourglass and pretty pear shaped clients sport clamdiggers with style when they wear the right combination of top and shoe. Sleek shirt dresses, tunics, baby dolls, voluminous tops, welted tops, knitted tops and wrap tops work beautifully. Add a jacket for a sophisticated edge and Bob’s your uncle. I love a smart casual look with an unexpected twist.

I can’t wait to haul out my clamdiggers. An arctic Seattle Spring has left them hibernating for longer than usual. But a clamdigger-friendly heat wave is supposed to be on the way. On the other hand, I might want to haul out my orphan dress. Oh no. Which should I wear?

Skinny CapriStudded Denim CapriSlim Capri

Cropped Matchstick JeanCurvy Capri JeanStretch Capri Pants

Clamdiggers are my favourite style of cropped pant because I prefer a streamlined look. I get loads of mileage out of my dark denim pair because they look great with knee high boots in Autumn. No tucking!

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Strappy stacked sandals

This look is in its second season. We’re talking about a soaring three-inch-plus chunky heel with wide foot straps. It’s the high fashion look to wear with raised hemlines, clamdiggers and skinnies. I can appreciate the 70’s inspired sandal style, on someone else. I’m never sporting strappy sandals again, let alone a style with soaring heel heights (although chunky heels are my preference because I find them extra stable). But if you can walk comfortably in shoes like these, then by all means give them a bash. They add a high fashion edge to an outfit that is modern and appealing.

Frye Dolly BuckleFrye Gerry Metal BeadsSilk Striped Knot Dress

Colour palette for blondes

Establishing a general colour palette for blondes is a little trickier than the no-brainer reality that brunettes look great in blue. There are several variables that factor into the equation. The first one to consider: what kind of blonde are you? Tow-head, ash blonde, dark blonde or strawberry blonde? Complexion and eye colour are next.

Over the years, I’ve drawn the following conclusions:

  • Strawberry blondes and tow-heads wear muted brights, ice-cream tones and dirty colours better than ash blondes
  • Olive skinned dark blondes get way with wearing pastels and look particularly good in white and brights
  • Ash blondes wear clean, cold and warm colours equally well, but tend to get washed out by insipid shades
  • Most blondes look good in black, but occasionally dark slate grey or ink blue is a softer and more flattering choice
  • Pale skinned blondes can look super in white if it’s appropriately contrasted with a strong colour like black or a bright
  • Cream is a good choice for blondes that have cream strands running through their hair
  • Blondes with blue eyes wear blue well and blondes with green eyes wear green well

I’m a rosy cheeked, short-haired ash blonde with creamy complexion and green eyes. I partially highlight my hair with ultra-blonde streaks, which is why I wear cream well. I look best in strong, sour bright colours like fiery red, canary yellow, citron, lime green, emerald green, fuchsia, cobalt blue, and bright turquoise. I look equally good in black and white combinations, ink blue and a dark olive green. I look a little blah in brown, but it comes alive when I add red, yellow, cream, white or black into the mix. I look dreadful in pastels, beige, light grey, muted brights and antique colours and avoid them like the plague. What type of blonde are you and which colours do you wear best?

Canary YellowBright TurqoiseFiery Red

Dark Olive GreenCreamBlack & White

As an ash blonde, these are some of the colours that work well on me.