Peak Premium Denim

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Angie is co-founder of YLF and its resident fashion stylist.

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Outfits Ensembles Trends Advice

Peak Premium Denim

— by Angie

on January 12, 2015

The premium denim trend has been going strong for over a decade. It took one of the most common wardrobe items in the world and made it into a coveted luxury item. Premium jeans are marketed as a cut above the rest, as jeans that feel magical when you put them on, that don’t bag out, and that look good all day, day after day. And based on the popularity of premium denim brands, the superior fit, fabrication, workmanship, silhouette and fashionability justified the premium price for many people.

My experience with premium denim jeans has been that for the most part they lived up to the hype. Until recently I would have said that they couldn’t be beat. But that has changed.

For one thing, non-premium denim is improving. The Loft, Ann Taylor, Levis, Lane Bryant, NYDJs, Cookie Johnson, Eileen Fisher and KUT from the Kloth generally offer much better fits for curvy and extremely curvy body types and plus sizes. These days, straighter cuts from J.Crew, Madewell, Banana Republic, the Gap and Boden can fit just as well as premium denim (if not better), are equally well made, and go the distance laundry cycle after laundry cycle. All for a fraction of the price.

At the same time, premium denim is losing its advantage in some areas. I’ve found the sizing of premium denim for skinnies and straight legs to be smaller than ever at the moment, often sizing out clients who are larger than a US size 10. The fabrications are not as substantial as they used to be, and many are fashionably distressed to the extreme, making them less versatile and robust than you’d like for the price. It’s not uncommon for styles to have doubled up on their percentage of stretch which causes the shape to bag out during the day. Very few are made of 100% cotton, which makes truly authentic denim hard to find.

All that said, premium denim does offer more silhouette, fabric and wash variety than non-premium denim, thereby making it more exclusive. If you want a hot off the press fashion forward jeans silhouette, or something different from the mainstream offerings, premium denim is probably your best bet.

Unless, of course, fast fashion giants like Zara, H&M or Forever 21 have beaten the premium denim houses to it.

On the whole, my clientele has become less interested in premium denim over time. After all, if they can achieve a more flattering and comfortable fit with similar quality at a quarter of the price, why not? They would rather spend their budget on other wardrobe items. Premium denim hasn’t gone away, but it is a smaller component of their denim capsules.

I used to be a devout premium denim gal, but like many of my clients, I’ve added lots of non-premium denim into my wardrobe. It fits and feels fab. Some of my favourite pairs of jeans are premium and others are non-premium, which speaks to my love of high-low style. I will continue to purchase premium denim when it gets me the exclusivity in fabric and silhouette that I’m looking for. But I’ll snap up a non-premium pair just as happily when they fit the bill.

Bottoms · Casual Wear

93 comments · Add a comment

Forum conversations about this post

A shoutout for some non-premium denim — by Janet
Intel on GAP'S Resolution jeans? — by merwoman
Premium Jeans for the Bigger Bum — by deb
WIW: A whole lotta jeans — by Suz

gryffin

Veteran

I don’t think I’ve ever owned a pair of premium denim, only because I used to love Lucky Brand jeans. Honestly, I feel like I could have been their fit model. Recently they’ve changed most of their composition to material that has so much stretch it doesn’t feel like a “jean” anymore. Thank god I’m a duplicator, so I have a small stash to keep me for awhile. But I am so sad since now I’ll have to find a different line. I did buy the Gap always skinny skimmer jeans, sized up, for a fab boyfriend/slouchy skinny – but I’m hoping my old lucky brand boot cuts hold up for a few more years!! So I’ll be watching your jean recommendations!!

January 12, 2015 at 3:29 am

kkards

Veteran

angie, i’m with you about 1/2 of my jeans are premium and half are the gap, (denim, for those of us old enough to remember, is really where they started). one other thing to call out re premium denim, at least here in the US, most of it is made here, and that’s a big part of why it has a premium price.

January 12, 2015 at 3:44 am

Diane G

Well, I’ve never bought premium denim. I think the most I’ve given is probably about £35 and more often only about £25. I only have 6 pairs of jeans too and that includes dark straights, lighter bf’s and white. Mind you I’m not always 100% pleased with the fit and end up altering my jeans. Maybe if I tried a higher price I may have got a better fit, who knows? Interesting how the market is changing though.

January 12, 2015 at 3:56 am

skylurker

Veteran

good to know, Angie, thanks.

I’m not sure how popular they were in Europe, I’ve never heard the term “premium” here and the brands are not widely distributed (besides, they are really expensive, probably more than in the US).
For most people jeans=Levi’s jeans and the minority that’s passionate about denim are more into raw jeans than “premium”.

I’ve tried them and am very satisfied with my AG jeans, but I went back to EU brands because they’re half the price for similar quality.

January 12, 2015 at 4:00 am

Sihaya

Veteran

I’ve always thought about owning premium denim but never gone there yet. Like you point out Angie, I’ve had great luck with Kut from the Kloth, Gap, and Banana Republic. Strangely jeans are hard to fit and so when I find ones that do, I stick with them until they stop making them.

January 12, 2015 at 4:34 am

Karie

(website)

Veteran

Gap jeans fit me better than any other, so I will stick with those. Even less expensive than that, Old Navy Diva’s fit me exceptionally well. I do have a pair of TR Brianna’s that I love, but I got them at an outlet center. If I’m going to spend a lot of money on jeans, I’d just as soon shop the outlet centers as I really don’t care if I wear a style of jeans from one or two seasons ago – they just don’t change that much from year to year. And with the exception of my Brianna’s, which are a boyfriend style, I find the premium brands to be too tight in the waist size that should fit me.

January 12, 2015 at 4:49 am

Ann

(website)

Thanks do much for this post Angie! I had budgeted in a pair of premium denim jeans for this year, having never owned any and being frustrated by so-so quality of others. But I’ll keep this in mind and look for non premium brands you listed. Then I can shift that budgeted money elsewhere

January 12, 2015 at 5:08 am

Joyce B

Veteran

I have mostly non-premium jeans and a few premium. As you said, it is very hard to find good premium ones for a curvy figure. I managed to find a few but what I mostly wear are my Kuts (thanks to your recommendation) and my NDYJs.

January 12, 2015 at 5:21 am

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

I have had similar mixed luck – sometimes premium, sometimes Gap. I have never managed with Zara denim – it always bags and stretches so I have just given up. I did buy some R13 denim on ebay and right now they are my favorites.

January 12, 2015 at 5:21 am

Ruth M

Active Member

This is SUCH useful information for me – thank you, Angie. I have yet to find my perfect pair of jeans, though I do have several pairs that are good enough. I did try on a couple of pairs of premium brand jeans in store last year, but the fit was not so much better compared to cheaper standby brands here (Next, M&S, occasionally GAP) as to allow me to pay the much higher price. It is encouraging to know that I won’t necessarily have to pay “top dollar” to get jeans that are right for me. The lesson for me from your post today is to keep trying on across a variety of brands and price points, whilst also paying attention to the label to check fabric composition.

January 12, 2015 at 5:29 am

Eliza

Veteran

I have both types of jeans, but have always purchased by fit, comfort, style and fabrication. I am equally happy with my non-premium jeans and agree that some premium brands almost skew towards junior with their cut and lots of distressing.

I wear denim frequently and like to have a range of options. Mixing it up works very well for me. I really don’t notice quality differences based on price. I just avoid too much stretch in the fabric. Interesting topic, Angie. Kudos to the brands that have stepped up at a good price point, too.

January 12, 2015 at 5:36 am

Joy

Veteran

For summer weight jeans, I like premium denim best although my white jeans are Kuts and BR. As a rectangle, I have jeans that I love, stretchy but don’t get baggy, from H&M and Hudson and Paige. However, I usually look at Kuts first for new jeans. They have lots of variety, although the fabric is often thicker and more cotton rich ( a good thing).

January 12, 2015 at 5:37 am

Laura

(website)

Veteran

I’m wearing a pair of Kut from Kloth jeans right now and I’m happy as a clam! Other than Kuts, my next favorite is Lucky Brand – I think that used to be considered premium denim, but no longer sure that’s the case?

Actually, the only for-sure premium denim I have in my closet is a pair of True Religion Camerons, and I don’t like the fit on me as much as the Kuts.

January 12, 2015 at 5:38 am

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I’m a definite high-low jeans shopper. I have both in my closet, and my favourite pairs include some premium (Rag & Bone Dres, Citizens of Humanity Racer skinnies, True Religion all-cotton Cameron BF) and some non-premium (Kut from the Kloth white skinnies, Banana Republic slouchy skinnies, BR cream skinnies.) I think with jeans, you really have to try them on and put them through their paces, and many times you’ll do just as well with a lower priced brand.

January 12, 2015 at 5:39 am

bettycrocker

I wear NYDJ because they fit me so well and I like the way they feel. I buy them on sale, as I think the regular price is too high. After all, at the end of the day, they’re just jeans.

I do agree that you really have to try them on.Once you find a pair that works, you then need to see how well it washes and wears.

January 12, 2015 at 5:45 am

amiable

Veteran

I can only remember buying new denim once (on clearance at Target), but my all time favorite pair of jeans are old beat us Seven For All Mankind jeans. And I understand the hype – they fit so perfect (though they do get older and more beat up regularly – so I doubt they’ll make it even through this year). In fact, whenever I shop, I watch for premium brands at GoodWill, and I suspect I’ll keep it up. But I’ll also not snub the “normal” brands. Thanks!

January 12, 2015 at 5:48 am

Jjsloane

Veteran

I have always hemmed and hawed over premium denim (when I wasn’t sized out which is usually the case). I’ve had Paige, Cult of Individuality and 7 for all Mankind. I buy on discount so not usually the most current cut. Many years ago when premium denim was just starting to be more available I spent what I thought was a ridiculous amount on some David Kahn jeans but they did fit so much better than anything else I had at the time. It has definitely changed and for the better.
As you wisely point out, there are jeans for every body at every price point and not all are better just because they cost more. My J Crew matchsticks and Gap always skinnies never let me down and I can stuff my closet with different sizes and colors for a comfortable (to me) price. I tried the Rag & Bone dres because they look so good on Suz, but I just didn’t find them special enough on me to justify the price (even on sale). I will not rule it out, and often drool over the newest styles and washes, but since there are options a pricier pair really has to deliver for me to warrant it. For now I’m happy in H&M, J Crew, Gap, Cookie Johnson and my ebay 7FAMK josefinas.

January 12, 2015 at 5:54 am

lisap

This is so timely, I can’t tell you. I was laying awake in bed last night thinking about starting thread today about jeans, and what the big deal is with premium denim. Well, here is my answer. And as I suspected, it’s not the be-all and end-all anymore. For all the money I spend on other items of clothing, I have never spent on premium denim. Some kind of mental block or something, but I never felt like I “needed” to try them. I can walk into the Gap and pull my size off the shelf every time, without trying them on, and walk out happy. When CM does a jean (every once in awhile) I’ll buy them, and they are great too. The first time I actually spent time trying on some premium denim was last week – at your urging:) Well, I tried on Seven, Frame and Citizen, and felt absolutely ZERO difference between them and the Gaps I was wearing. Sure they were nice, but the denim was no different than anything else. The Frames were so distressed I actually put my foot through a hole in the thigh while trying them on – not cool. Anyways, this is a really interesting analysis and I appreciate your thoughts here. I also do well with NYDJ, although BR jeans don’t seem to work on me.

I’m still looking for “the pair” right now – not sure where I’ll end up!

January 12, 2015 at 5:59 am

viva

Veteran

Like Suz, I’m a high-low denim shopper, but when I buy premium I tend to buy it on major sale or (like Amiable) thrifted. I tend to rely on JCrew for the bulk of my jeans collection, but I also have the AG Nikkis (bought with a deep discount) and Paige flares (thrifted). My local consignment shop is an excellent source for premium denim, and last week I bought a pair of like-new dark blue JBrand bootcuts that fit like a glove, better than any JCrews have ever fit me. And for $35.

It definitely comes down to fit, for me, but I like to search for the best price on premiums.

January 12, 2015 at 6:04 am

JayS

Veteran

Is there such a thing as semi-premium? If there is, that’s my sweet spot. My favorite denim is the Pilcro Stets..an Anthropologie brand. I have 6 pairs and have been wearing them for 4 or 5 years. They do vary the fabric content with each new season so they don’t always work for me.
Other than that, premium denim seems to work better for me. I recently scored a pair of R & B Dres at the Rack for under 80 bucks. I love, love, love them. Thinking about duplicating them at full price…

January 12, 2015 at 6:10 am

Nebraskim

Veteran

I’m totally sized out of premium denim at a size 12-14. The last time I was thin enough to wear premium/designer jeans was in 1986 when I had a pair of Brooke Shields Calvin Kleins, which I did love. My gripe with some brands’ new fabrication is the addition of polyester, which makes fabric cheaper by reducing the cotton content, but also makes it feel hot or cold, depending on the weather; attracts lint like crazy; and makes the jeans bag and stretch. I have learned the hard way to pretty much walk away from any denim with polyester content. Spandex/lycra is fine; polyester, not so much.

January 12, 2015 at 6:10 am

MrsK

Active Member

Thank you Angie, this has really helped me think about premium denim in a new way. I’ve been in need of new jeans for some time, and have tried many pairs of premium jeans only to be disappointed and wonder what I’m doing wrong, because 10 years ago they were so amazing and today, I can’t find anything that’s right in the premium world whereas my Gap and Banana Republic “placeholders” are hitting it out of the park in terms of fit and quality. My biggest complaint with premium denim right now is the fabric, it’s too thin and stretchy and not actually what I think of as denim. I want the weighty, substantial denim of my youth!

Because premium denim was so *life-changing* for me in terms of looking good in jeans, I have been married to the idea that my new perfect jeans MUST BE premium. Meanwhile, I already have the perfect jeans in my closet, I just needed to give myself permission to call them perfect!

January 12, 2015 at 6:11 am

jackiec

Veteran

I’m also a high-low denim shopper. I practically live in jeans, so paying premium is usually still cost effective for me (although I almost always buy on sale). I always have my eyes open for the next non premium “it” jean. I love my American Eagle denim, just as well as my premiums.

January 12, 2015 at 6:22 am

Diana

Veteran

My experience with premium denim is just like yours. I used to be very devoted to it, and thought the fabrics and cuts were superior. However, more recently I’ve also bought jeans from KUT and Gap and the like, in addition to premium brands such ad CoH and vince. I agree completely with you on the decrease in fabric quality lately (across the board in price terms I think). The too much stretch is annoying, but the thing that bothers me most is that almost all jeans have a substantial amount of polyester now. This annoys me in particular because for some reason stretch poly almost always makes me itchy, so I avoid it at all costs. As a result my jeans shopping has definitely slowed down.

January 12, 2015 at 6:23 am

Diane G

Funny but a lot of you talk about NYDJ brand, which to me is a premium brand, as here in the UK they cost an a lot. Must be because it’s a brand made in the US. Or maybe I’m just cheap!

January 12, 2015 at 6:24 am

Diana

Veteran

ETA: one thing I loved about the old premium denim was that the fabric felt like velvet. (And yet it was still strong and substantial, with just enough stretch for comfort but it didn’t feel *stretchy*, you know?.) I would pay a lot to find that fabric again!

January 12, 2015 at 6:26 am

lisap

I also appreciate learning that the premium denim sizing has changed. I did find I had to try on bigger sizes in these brands . I’m thinking it has to do with the surgence of the Asian market (and the sizes they require) as the biggest consumers of luxury branded merchandise .

January 12, 2015 at 6:28 am

christieanne

Veteran

My very favorite jeans are black denim from Target Mossimo line of all places. Of course they are discontinued and the new replacements have too much spandex. My fave pair is primarily a thick cotton denim straight leg. I wish I had duplicated them 5 times over.
It’s good that the lower end denim makers have stepped up their game as jeans are not going away anytime soon in the fashion market.

January 12, 2015 at 6:30 am

Laurie

Veteran

Early in my time here at YLF 4 years ago, I learned what premium denim was- I had never even heard the term. I bought a pair of Paige Hidden Hills bootcuts, and I have to say that they are still one of my favorite pairs of jeans in my closet. it is the only pair of jeans I have ever paid that much for, and the only pair I’ve ever bought that weren’t on sale. I always get compliments when I wear them. Mostly I have Gap and Loft, BR fit a little too straight. NYDJ, when on sale at Rack, are a good bargain and good fit for me.

January 12, 2015 at 6:37 am

giddyup

Active Member

I will throw in another angle for supporting some premium denim brands. Many many premium denim brands are made in the US and many from denim made in the US. Also, I will say that not all weaves of denim are equal at all. Ever have jeans with twisted seams? It can be attributed to the weave of the denim.

January 12, 2015 at 6:43 am

Tanya

Veteran

I am definitely a premium jeans gal, I have started wearing them about 12 years ago and never looked back. Jeans are extremely important to me, as I wear them almost every day with my casual lifestyle so this is one of the clothing categories that I splurge on. I own many pairs of jeans, more than 20, and about 90% of them are premium. I own most of the major premium brands and have been very happy with them. I have some pairs that have been going strong for about 10 years – mostly various bootcuts/flares that have been lurking in the back during the skinny craze but coming out to play more with the recent silhouette changes.
I have gotten rid of only a few pairs throughout the past 12 years, and that has exclusively been due to sizing, never quality. My one and only disappointment has been very recent: a pair of Citizen’s skinnies that has been a couple of months old and barely worn ripped at the knee for no particular reason.
The non-premium pairs I won have been an experiment of some kind – they were either an unusual color, pattern, or something else risky that I wasn’t certain of how often I will wear. A couple of times it turned out I really liked the idea and worn a certain non-premium pair a lot so I upgraded to a premium pair of the same nature ( this happened with black tuxedo sand blue denim moto skinnies).
I guess I am in a big minority based on the comments but I remain faithful to premium denim. Today there are more sales and deals then ever and most of the time I find that one can score premium denim on sale for a price equivalent to regular denim at full price, so this is how I purchase most of my denim. Having said that, my denim capsule is huge and pretty much complete so I can not imagine wanting a new pair soon unless something new and very different comes out soon.

January 12, 2015 at 6:50 am

Phoebe

Veteran

As Diane said, premium jeans are extremely expensive in the EU, and since I couldn´t find any difference to normal jeans, I stay with good quality EU jeans and save my fashion money for designer handbags and shoes (where I can really notice a difference between cheap and expensive).

January 12, 2015 at 6:52 am

Beth Ann

Veteran

I’ve learned (from you) to constantly reevaluate retailers and trends. My white jeans are Earl Jeans. Now, years ago, Earl was semi-premium, and I would have been sized out. They must have been sold, because there they were, in my local Carson’s (BonTon), the fit was generous, and the fabrication, while decent, far from “premium.”

As you know, I’ve had good luck with Levi’s — some (not all) of their fabrications are more like the true denim of old. Curiously, while traveling out west, I noticed that practically all of the European and Asian tourists were wearing Levis. I so wanted to take pics, because their styling was fabulous. I suspect they bought them while in the US, and part of the appeal was “wearing American in the Rockies.”

January 12, 2015 at 7:00 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Lots of people doing well with non-premium denim, which I expected.

Gryffin, it’s unfortunate when a brand doesn’t make their items like it used to.

kkards and giddyup, good point about premium denim being made in the US, and Vernon, CA to be exact. That’s a good reason to support the brands.

Skylurker, premium denim is very popular in the US, and less so in Europe. Interesting, Levis is an expensive premium brand in Europe, which is not the case in America.

Diane, it wouldn’t surprise me if NYDJs are premium in the UK. They definitely are not in the US. Just like Levis (see my comment to skylurker).

Laura, Lucky jeans, as far as I know are not premium. Those KUTS are amazing jeans, aren’t they. I have three pairs in white.

Suz, Diana and Eliza, exactly. High five. Why are they putting polyester into premium denim? My old pair of premium denim jeans – six years old – are velvety, just like you said, and have lasted very well.

Jjsloane, you look fantastic in all those non-premium pairs of jeans.

That’s great info, Lisa. Keep us posted.

JayS, I’m not sure. Lucky seems to fall into that category too.

Tanya, I’m glad that you’re still doing well with premium denim.

January 12, 2015 at 7:02 am

Lauren

I have a mix of both premium and non premium denim. I love my Hudson jeans but I also love the super cheap jeans from American eagle. They fit well and I always get the high waisted style, which isn’t all that high waisted but helps me avoid the dreaded muffin too. As long as I don’t wear them two days in a row, I don’t have any issues with the jeans becoming baggy. The denim quality is nice and thick. I also like the jeans from White House Black Market but those are more expensive.

January 12, 2015 at 7:12 am

Elly

Veteran

I’ve never owned any premium denim. Recently I’ve become a fan of GAP jeans, which is funny because my #1 fit issues are that I have a curvy behind and thighs and most of their styles fit me off the shelf. It’s almost sad to hear that premium denim isn’t what it used to be, because if it was I would certainly consider buying wardrobe essentials from premium brands (for me, bootcut dark jeans and straight legs) for the longevity factor. The other time I would consider premium denim is to find a fit I’m not finding in “regular” denim offerings — specifically, a good fit in a BF jean or a skinny jean. However, I in general can’t afford to invest wardrobe dollars in $200+ jeans, so they’d have to be the $100-150 dollar offerings or bought at less than retail.

January 12, 2015 at 7:13 am

Laura

(website)

Veteran

Angie, your remark about buying Kuts in white made me remember that the reason I tried several non-premium brands was because I wanted white jeans. Paying premium denim prices for white jeans, when combined with a MOTG lifestyle, didn’t make much sense. I would have been a nervous wreck wearing $200+ white jeans around our two boys! In buying the Kuts in white, I found that I liked the non-premium brands just as well and started buying non-premium for regular jeans as well.

I did forget about the AG Nikkis, which someone else here mentioned. I own those and LOVE them. That is one pair of premium jeans that has totally paid off in cost-per-wear for me.

January 12, 2015 at 7:21 am

Thistle

Veteran

I have never invested in premium denim, so I can’t speak to it. I have liked my Levi’s, JLo’s and Kut’s so much I was never tempted to even try, especially as I primarily wear jeans on casual weekends chasing a preschooler and now have a baby in the mix.

Not even sure they sell premium denim around here. One of the most popular places to buy jeans by me is a store called Farm and Fleet or its rival Fleet Farm.

January 12, 2015 at 7:23 am

UtahDesert

Active Member

Since I buy denim either secondhand or heavily marked down I don’t make a sharp distinction between premium and non-premium. For example, I’d never heard of Habitual when I came across a pair of pre-worn black skinnies that were perfect for me, but now I watch out for that brand. Best-fitting and most flattering for me right now is Hudson. (They make my flat butt look curvy. At least a little.) But I’m also wearing Paige and Lucky, and although I seemed to have sized down from my black Citizens of Humanity, I’d love to find another pair at a good price. I always check out NYDJ at Nordstrom Rack, because I like their fit and their feel and the variety of colors I find there. Currently I have a pair of dark green coated NYDJ skinnies on my shelf (my only 2015 purchase so far) just waiting to be combined with a black tuxedo jacket or possibly even a pink jacket as my new semester classes start up.

January 12, 2015 at 7:25 am

Deb

Veteran

I’m so with you Tanya. Give me premium denim any day. I have a fab collection of premium jeans, in various cuts, washes, styles and colours. Most pairs are AG’s and a smaller number are C of H, but I like TR and 7FAM sometimes too. They all have superior fabric, they wash, wear, keep their shape well, have a great fit and look, and they last and last. The Americans make some of the best premium jeans….. they are a wardrobe essential for me.

January 12, 2015 at 7:28 am

RobinT

Timely information!! Thanks!
I’ve been fustrated lately with finding jeans to fit my body type..large waist, small hips & butt. I’m totally a comfort girl and at the same time my jeans must look flattering. So it’s always a hunt for the perfect pair of jeans. I had success with the Gap 1969 a few years ago. I bought Old Navy Rock Star Skinny last year but can’t replace the fit this year. I bought a Canadian Jean …Second Yoga jeans…love the fit & loved the dark demin colour ($125 approx) but after a handful of washings they lost their shape and bagged in the thigh. I still wear these but disappointed. My Loft jeans shrunk… I think I’ll have to reconsider of not putting my jeans in the dryer??
This winter I’ve branch off from demin to wearing cords….

January 12, 2015 at 7:29 am

Jamie

Veteran

I feel exactly the same, Angie. I probably have equal amounts of premium and non-premium denim in my wardrobe. What is more important to me is the quality of the fabrication and the fit.

January 12, 2015 at 7:30 am

Joyce B

Veteran

Angie, I also try to support what is made in the US.

January 12, 2015 at 7:33 am

bettycrocker

Yes, I think it’s great to support products made in the U.S. whenever possible. That’s another reason I like NYDJ jeans. Still, when it comes right down to it, jeans (as with anything else) have to fit properly.

January 12, 2015 at 7:52 am

Marilyn

Veteran

No premium denim for me. I pretty much live in jeans and GAP serves me well. I love some of their newer styles with stretch. I recently bought a pair of the Stretch and Recovery legging jeans in dark wash. They look fantastic, I can wear them for days and they don’t stretch out at all, and they are very comfortable. I can do a deep squat in them just as comfortably as in a gym pant. And, when bought on sale, you can’t beat the price point.

January 12, 2015 at 8:11 am

Firecracker (Sharan)

Veteran

I’m wondering what actually constitutes premium denim. It seems mainly a price distinction, especially given what you’ve written here about the convergence in quality between lower- and higher-end jeans these days, Angie. Tanya’s story is the one I would have expected to be mine. But I found that the premium denim I bought and loved didn’t last as long as I expected it to, not because of the quality, but because I outgrew the jeans! So I didn’t continue to buy premium denim once that happened. Also, what drew me to premium denim in the first place were the fit, the fabric, and the styles. Lately I’ve been able to find what I’m looking for in those three categories with less expensive brands. Initially when I tried on Kut fro the Kloth, I could not find a pair that fit me. Now I have a couple of them, and I wear their corduroys, too.

January 12, 2015 at 8:11 am

Firecracker (Sharan)

Veteran

I should say that now I don’t continue to buy premium denim exclusively. I do buy it, usually on sale–love my Hudson pair from Nordstrom Anniversary Sale.

January 12, 2015 at 8:16 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Good idea, JoyceB.

Firecracker, high five.

Laura, a good white jeans strategy. The AG Nikkis are my favourite premium jeans at the moment too.

January 12, 2015 at 8:32 am

eds

Active Member

I do have a pair of Paige Hidden Hills that looks great on, but I have really been enjoying the Ann Taylor curvy jeans. They fit like a dream and are so comfy. I do find each wash to be a slightly different fabric, which is frustrating because they are often not found in the stores and must be ordered.

January 12, 2015 at 8:55 am

lisap

This is really interesting, and I’ve been thinking about this all morning (while working out – lol) . Someone above mentioned how premium denim isn’t really available where she lives, and I think that’s probably the big reason I’ve never dived into that pool. There are maybe a handful of stores carrying premium denim in Winnipeg . They just aren’t readily available without a special trip to a boutique . Is it just me, or is boutique shopping a little too precious at times? No returns, tense environments where you’re the only one the store with snooty sales people etc…..
I think most of you who have great experiences with jeans in the $250-300 range are living in big urban US cities? (and that’s the price of premium denim in Canada, btw)

January 12, 2015 at 9:07 am

Transcona Shannon

Veteran

I only have one pair of premium denim in my wardrobe at the moment (the True Religion Cameron BF’s) and they were worth every penny. However, I think it’s more important to find jeans that work for your body type and your style which doesn’t necessarily equate to brand.

For example, my Ralph Lauren skinny BF’s are by far my favorite jeans since I purchased them last year. They fit me better than any other pair, have worn incredibly well and just get softer and more comfortable with each wear, don’t bag out AT ALL and cost under $100.

I also have to give a shout out to Jessica Simpson jeans. They work really well on a curvy shape, are very comfortable and cost somewhere in the range of $40 – $60. They do bag out a little bit but not overly so.

I am also less inclined to drop hard earned cash on premium denim when my weight and size fluctuates so readily. I think I would cry if I paid $250 for a pair of jeans only to find in four months they no longer fit.

January 12, 2015 at 9:07 am

Laura (rhubarbgirl)

(website)

Veteran

Funny that you posted this this morning, Angie, because last night I was doing research on Christopher Blue brand jeans and reading old posts on the forum. If you go back 4-6 years on the YLF forum there are a lot of folks very passionate about their high end denim. Recently, not as much.

Lucky Brand is an interesting case; until a year or two ago I would have called them premium because their jeans were priced over a hundred bucks, and you could only find them in their stores. Recently they seem to have made their brand available via discount retailers like Ross and TJ Maxx and lowered their prices. I found a pair of older (probably nearing a decade old) pair of Lucky’s at the thrift store last year and they are waaaay different than the current stock – 100% cotton and made in the USA (some current Lucky jeans are made in the US, but not all, I don’t think).

I keep waiting for Everlane to tackle denim; I’d probably be sized out or it wouldn’t fit my figure, but at least they’d manage to do an ethical, US made version of jeans, given their past reputation.

January 12, 2015 at 9:11 am

gardenchick

Veteran

Thanks for this! I have definitely found some great fitting non-premium denim options. Perhaps they’re not on the cutting edge of the trend, but that’s not really a shopping requirement for me.

January 12, 2015 at 9:12 am

Lisa

Veteran

I am a jeans gal and adore both premium and non premium denim. I do feel that the lines have blurred between the two and the fit and quality of some lines has gone down/up. My current favorite brands are: Joe’s, Paige, Kut from the Kloth, Lucky Brand and Gap.

January 12, 2015 at 9:21 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Very interesting.

With good reason, Laura, which is what prompted me to write this post.

Lisap, premium denim costs about $200 to $400 full price in the US. On sale is a different story. The best assortment of stock is available online.

Lisa, most of us feel like you about our denim. It’s fascinating.

January 12, 2015 at 9:21 am

Janet

(website)

Veteran

I own — and enjoy — a mix of premium and non-premium denim. One of the things I appreciate about some premium lines is that they often are cut a little longer in the inseam. So many jeans are just enough too short on me to rule them out with all but the flattest of shoes (Lucky, I’m looking at you, otherwise they fit me well).

My favorites of past years have been Paige jeans, but I feel like their cuts have changed and their sizing has gotten smaller — the new ones don’t seem to accommodate my thighs the way the old ones did. So I’m wearing my 3-4-year-old pairs to death.

I have Kut, BR, Gap jeans, and also AG, Paige, Hudson, and the JBrand Love Story jeans. I find jeans fit challenging enough that I’m open to trying brands across a broad price spectrum, but there are some that don’t work for me because they’re too long in the rise (NYDJ) or too straight to accommodate hips and thighs.

I’ve got to say that I’ve worn my premium denim often enough that it has easily justified the price! The Paige skinnies I’m wearing right now have to be down to pennies a wear.

January 12, 2015 at 9:30 am

skylurker

Veteran

I wouldn’t say Levis is an expensive premium brand, Angie.
They cost around 100€ while COH, Mother, AG…cost 250-300€.

January 12, 2015 at 9:46 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Ah, Skylurker. Interesting. I’ve seen Levis cost 250 Euro in Paris (7 years ago), and it costs $35 in the US. Perhaps things have changed.

January 12, 2015 at 9:48 am

merwoman

Veteran

Interesting! I spent several hours one afternoon trying on premium denim in my search for the Holy Grail of jeans. There wasn’t a single pair that fit me as well as denim from the Gap. Why pay more? I currently wear denim from GAP, BR and Joe Fresh. I could wish for improvement for the rear view – but I suspect it’s the raw material, not the jean.

January 12, 2015 at 9:51 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Janet, older premium denim – say 5 to 8 years back – generally fit better and was better quality. That’s why you keep on wearing your old pairs. My six year old J.Brands look great, and I still love wearing them. With the exception of my TR Camerons, Love Story flares, and AG Nikki’s (all bought in the last two years), I have not been seduced by premium denim at all.

Merwomen, I think more people would purchase premium denim if they fit as well. From dressing clients, it’s astounding at how much better a pair of non-premium denims *can* fit, especially if you’re curvy. So what you said makes a lot of sense.

January 12, 2015 at 10:01 am

Sveta

(website)

Veteran

I have 3 pairs of Paige jeans which is the extent of my premium denim relationship. Bootcuts and flares were bought on sale so they cost me under $100 each. The last pair of straight legs I bough full price ($160-180 I think) because they were that elusive size 33 which you usually cannot find in a premium denim brands. That was when I was over tight skinnies and wanted relaxed jeans and they fit the bill. Unfortunately after my weight loss they became quite loose BF jeans on me.
I also want to add one aspect for the premium denim which was not mentioned yet – length. It is much easier to find longer jeans in premiun brands than in others – unless other brands make Tall sizes (which is a godsend!)
Right now I have 3 pairs of Paige jeans, a pair of cream BR skinnies (which are BF on me now), a pair of white JCrew Reid straight legs, a pair of Madewell straight legs, a pair of plai Kut jeans and a pair of Gap slim white BF jeans. I had to retire 2 pairs of Kut BF jeansde to a size change – faded blue Catherine BF jeans were my most favorite pair and very much mourned when I had to say goodbuy to them! I really like Kut jeans – too bad they skimp on the length in them so anything but BF jeans is too short for me
Even with my shart experience with premium denim I discovered the change in quality. My first pair of Paige Hidden Hills bootcuts from 2011 feels much more substantial in the fabric than 2 other pairs I got later…:-(

January 12, 2015 at 10:02 am

Gaylene

Veteran

I’m a bit bemused by the rationale that supports buying premium jeans because some of the brands are “made in the USA”. As a Canadian, does that mean I ought to start sourcing out Canadian manufacturers for my denim? Right now, I rely on fit and fabric–and some US brands do fulfill my criteria better than any of the Canadian brands I’ve tried on.

January 12, 2015 at 10:10 am

nishaa

just for my knowledge, Angie. . what’s the % of Lycra that will not cause it to bag significantly but will maintain some stretch. . I have levi’s with 2% Lycra, that do shrink on washing and get loose on wearing but the difference is so subtle. . . And no bagginess at all.

January 12, 2015 at 10:16 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Nishaa, I’ve found 1 – 2% Lycra works quite well. But air drying jeans is essential. You will ruin your jeans if you put them in the dryer. The hot air breaks down the elasticity of the fibres, which is what causes most of the bagging out.

January 12, 2015 at 10:25 am

Shawna

(website)

I have never owned premium denim and to me The Gap or Banana Republic jeans are the expensive ones and I don’t even have access to them in my town. It would take a special trip to the city for those. I buy cheap denim but always look for a good fit and no more than 1% lycra. I need a longer rise than average and longer leg length, though the trend of wearing jeans with heels has lead to longer leg lengths being readily available. I like a mid rise as the low rise is just too low for me and along with too much lycra leaves me constantly hiking my jeans up. I dislike all the trendy distressing but I am also tired of the super dark denim and long for some faded ones again. My most beloved style is a baby boot cut, faded denim mid rise, which isn’t easy to find at the moment.

January 12, 2015 at 10:38 am

Laura (rhubarbgirl)

(website)

Veteran

Europeans are paying a hundred euros for Levi’s? Holy cats.

Gaylene, there was a renaissance in US-grown and US-made denim in recent years very popular among fans of raw denim and that sort of thing – mostly in the LA area and in the Carolinas, a lot of repurposing of old textile mills and machinery that had been shut down or were about to close. Small companies, kickstarter campaigns, very hipster, etc. Kind of the jeans equivalent of locavorism and community supported agriculture. I don’t know if the same thing is happening in Canada or not – the local fiber sourcing would be trickier as it’s not like most of Canada has the climate to grow cotton, whereas it grows well in the southeastern US (and in the southwestern US if you have adequate irrigation).

January 12, 2015 at 10:45 am

CocoLion

(website)

Veteran

Count me on the minority team with Tanya and Deb. Premium denim still works for me. I have a vast collection from brands including True Religion, Rag & Bone, AYR, Paige, CoH, Mother, R13… I add to and edit my collection constantly. When I tire of a pair or it doesn’t fit quite right, I post them on eBay and they always sell quickly. I buy my premium denim primarily from Nordstrom and Shopbop. I am wary of purchasing denim from outlet stores including the Rack, because I know that premium denim lines manufacture jeans exclusively for outlet and discount stores. While still making them in the US, I believe they use lesser fabrics and I want to avoid this. Yes sometimes discount stores also feature older models, but it is hard to tell the difference until you actually purchase and wear the jeans. I do find premium on sale, but beware those marked down jeans might be the jeans that don’t work as well as they should. I am willing to pay full price for jeans that deliver. I recently purchased the Rag & Bone Kensington wash skinny jean. It’s been around a few years, gets excellent reviews, never goes on sale. It’s worth paying another $50-100 for a pair that truly delivers.

I do have a few non-premium too — a pair from Kut (white Diana bf jeans — excellent! – you made me buy them Angie) and a pair of Levi’s. And a few from H&M. When buying denim from H&M, I avoid the ones for $10-20. The pairs they sell for $40-60 have a vast quality difference — I consider them an excellent value although the sizing is erratic.

January 12, 2015 at 11:01 am

mtnsofthemoon

Veteran

I find this post very interesting and educational as I had given up on jeans/denim almost 8 years ago because after hauling 20 to 30 pairs (premium brands and non-premium brands) into the dressing room I could NEVER find a brand or fit that fit my size 2 waist and size 4 hips. I only have 2 pairs of jeans, curvy fit, from Loft and Banana Republic (1 white and 1 dark blue). I love jeans and would like to revisit the possibility of owning a pair, so if anyone has any leads/suggestions on the best brand/style for my hourglass shape I just might give it a go again!

January 12, 2015 at 11:11 am

Stacyanderic

Active Member

I just want to know why a brand can’t be consistent with their style and cut. I live overseas and so do mail order for most of my jeans and it’s so frustrating to order the “exact” same pair of jeans from the same brand and they don’t fit the same! Ugh…then you gotta go through the return process. That said I do love my cropped Kut jeans and my fave skinnies from old navy!

January 12, 2015 at 11:41 am

rachylou

Veteran

Is Paige Premium Denim… premium denim? I bought a pair of Paige’s this year, but they aren’t actually made of denim. I like them because they’re grey on grey plaid, but they aren’t magic pants … not like my Armani jean-jeans from yesteryear were. I’ve never ever found anything like those jeans ever again.

I once went to this big, sort of traveling premium denim show (after the Armani jeans time period). At that point in fashion, it was all about the pocket stitching. But I didn’t like the stitching I saw, and most of everything was heavy and stiff – the sort of thing that literally gives me indigestion.

Anyways, I’m not much of a blue jeans person so I don’t think I pay that much attention. I will probably always just go to Target if I think I need a pair – and really some of my most flattering have come from there. And they do last. My jeans are OLD.

January 12, 2015 at 11:49 am

Marilyn

Veteran

mtnsofthemoon………My waist and hip measurements don’t gel either. My waist measurement is slightly too big for my hips/legs even though I’m slim. My solution is jeans that sit on my hips. That way, the waist is irrelevant.
I have great success with Gap jeans.

January 12, 2015 at 12:03 pm

Marley

Veteran

I am a huge fan of premium denim. Jeans are the most essential item in my wardrobe (I wear them everyday) and I love the fit, fabric, and style of my premium denim jeans. However, I do have a few pairs of “favorites” right now that are not premium – a pair of Target skinnies, a pair of American Eagle skinnies, and a pair of GAP BFs. All three are holding up as well as my premium denim jeans – so I’m certainly open to exploring the “regular” jeans options!

January 12, 2015 at 12:17 pm

ElleH

Veteran

I will have to try non premium denim again. Everytime I so I’m dissatisfied with the fit and I get tired of continuing to look. It seems it takes less tries for me to find satisfactory premium denim.

January 12, 2015 at 12:24 pm

giddyup

Active Member

Personally, I like to buy my clothing and textiles from US sources. Making textiles is a major contributor to pollution and not to mention the labor issues. I also sew a lot of my clothing. Yes, I totally know that everything is so connected etc. but I do what I can, that is all we can ever do.

January 12, 2015 at 12:25 pm

Lyn D.

Veteran

Although I am a jean-person through and through, I don’t buy premium brands either.
I prefer to go for fit, style and colour at a medium price.

January 12, 2015 at 12:42 pm

Diane G

Laura, I just had a look at the UK website of Levis and found one pair at £155. Most are around £80 to £90, Not sure what it is in Euros 115 I think. I would have to get them on sale.

January 12, 2015 at 12:44 pm

Laura (rhubarbgirl)

(website)

Veteran

Interesting, Diane, thanks for the numbers. You can get Levi’s here for probably around $50-70 not on sale, but they’re sold at a lot of department stores and places like Kohl’s where there’s almost always a sale or a coupon or something that’d get you a significant amount off of list price. I think the quality of men’s Levi’s is still decent – my husband has some that have lasted well – but on the women’s side they’re neither particularly high-quality nor particularly thought of as fashion-forward anymore (at least that’s my impression).

When I shop at Asos’s website I occasionally see items that have a note they can’t be sent to Germany, or whatever other country – presumably the manufacturer has an exclusive licensing deal in that area. Maybe Levi’s has something similar in Europe which explains the higher prices there.

January 12, 2015 at 2:11 pm

Style Fan

Veteran

I tend to wear only premium denim. I have bought non premium brands and the feeling of the denim makes me want to rip the jeans off after a few minutes. Also, as a few others have mentioned there is the problem of length. When premium denim came out I never had to worry about finding jeans long enough. I have worn Silvers which are not premium but their BF a few years ago were great.

January 12, 2015 at 2:19 pm

Mita

Active Member

Great post Angie, thank you. I have just been going back to brands such as NYDJ and Eileen Fisher due to fit on a curvy body. I do have 2 pairs of AGs I love when I am on the thinner side- super flattering, just the right amount of stretch. Lucky is a good basic. But you are right most premium don’t work if one is not skinny. I was amazed when I first learned how many jeans one needs to try on to find the right one. It is a time investment to shop for them-hard for working moms. So it is great when you find one that works. Then sad when they stop making those

January 12, 2015 at 2:36 pm

DonnaF

Veteran

Am I mistaken that most premium denim jeans are skinnies? And if in Petites, they might be bootcuts/flares? My cut of choice is straight leg because it skims my heavy legs and masks my bow legs, and I haven’t seen any premium denim Petite straight legs or boyfriends to try. (If in regular sizes, the fading is to my calves.)

My bootcuts and flares don’t need replacing, and I certainly don’t want to increase my collection. I am curious enough to at least try on premium denim in a style I might buy. Do any premium brands sell straight cut Petites? And might fit a Big Star/Jag/NYDJ body?

January 12, 2015 at 3:36 pm

Keix

Veteran

I recently replenished my jeans capsule during the holiday sales with 3 new pairs: AG (promo on full price), AG (super sale), and J.Crew. The AG Stevie style at Anthropologie fits me perfectly, but my older pairs are starting to bag out because they predated my switch to air-dying all of my jeans. Still, premium fabric can’t be beat in softness and stretch without clinging like jeggings. I do also really like Lucky Brand jeans, and I’m hopeful for my new J.Crew pair although past experience hasn’t been great (I had a pair of Toothpicks that refused to stretch in the waist but bagged out in the legs).

I’m a rectangle with curvy rear and thighs but narrow hips and a large waist, so I need jeans that stretch for curves but don’t assume them, and I strongly prefer low rise because the waist is more comfortable. I get more muffin top the higher my jeans rise goes, although strangely that correlation doesn’t hold true for mid-rise trousers with a substantial wide waistband.

I tried Kut on the Kloth jeans once from Nordstrom Rack and liked the fit at first, but they stretch out a ton and became unwearable for me. Perhaps sizing down would help (I took my usual size 2/26, which is what I wear in premium denim despite measuring a 28″ waist), but the rise is always so high that I’m turned off. In fact, I passed on a pair of Rag & Bone jeans at Nordstrom that otherwise fit wonderfully because the 8.5″ rise was just a half inch higher than I could tolerate, causing muffin top.

Anyone have similar fit issues and can suggest non-premium brands to try? I used to like American Eagle, but after trying premium denim I find their fabric quality not up to par.

January 12, 2015 at 3:49 pm

sewingmom3

Active Member

I have a pair of premium jeans, but they are not as comfortable nor do they fit as well as my Lee’s jeans. I like the really dark navy, and I also have a pair in black. Here in GA we have the country’s largest denim plant in Trion, GA. Below is a video link showing how they make the denim for various manufacturers. As you no doubt know, in denim, the yarn is dyed, not the fabric. The length wise yarn is dyed and the cross wise yarn stays white.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DhPLjXz08o

January 12, 2015 at 3:54 pm

Debora

Veteran

I have one pair of Paige premium denim, and I do love them and reach for them often. I have also had good luck with Kut and Ann Taylor jeans. I will need to refresh my jeans this spring, and I am looking forward to trying out some of the non premium options. Will be referring back to this post. Thanks, Angie!

January 12, 2015 at 5:30 pm

Stella Blu

Active Member

Premium Denim is not really something I would like to make room in my budget for. I might consider premium jeans if there were no other great options, or if they would really make me so much better. I do well with NYDJ. For skinnies I like a Canadian brand: ‘Second Yoga Jeans’, which is really stretchy, but has a good recovery. They look like jeans, but feel like yoga pants.

January 12, 2015 at 5:52 pm

Quietgirl

Veteran

Thank you, Angie. Very timely observations as jeans are on my list for the new year.

January 12, 2015 at 8:05 pm

kate

Great post! I live in jeans and like some used to consider Banana the pricier ones. Finally I made the jump to Joes Jeans and then flirted around in that higher price range and did love what I got. You’re giving me great reasons to go back to Banana and GAP..as long as they have a little stretch in them. I do love that!

January 13, 2015 at 7:04 am

kmass15584

Active Member

January 13, 2015 at 7:08 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

So many interesting responses.

I’m not sure whether premium denim is THE way to get a longer length when many non-premium brands offer Tall lengths – which have longer inseams.

January 13, 2015 at 7:20 am

Isabel

Veteran

It is a mixed bag for me as well, Angie et al. My all-time favorites are my NYDJ. I like the higher waistlines and they just fit me really, really well. Not all their styles of course but I hit the jackpot with the ones that I do have. I also love my JAG pull-on straight jeans that I can double as a denim legging. Tied with JAG are a pair of Lee jeans that I bought out of desperation and I ended up loving them. I have to agree that Gap and AT and ATL have some great stuff too. One of my friends swears by Old Navy Jeans.

My jeans have always lasted a long time because I am careful to wash them after a few wearings and always inside out. I also don’t carry anything in the pockets so that I don’t stretch those out.

I suppose that in the end, it comes down to what you want your jeans to do. Take you out ? Clean in them ? Work in the yard ?

January 13, 2015 at 10:12 am

Vicki

(website)

Veteran

I’m echoing what so many have said here and I could have written what Marley wrote in that my American Eagle and GAP jeans are every bit as nice as my premium denim jeans. I’ll remain open to high, low and everything in between, and, yes, why do manufacturers have to include more and more polyester in our jeans?

January 13, 2015 at 12:02 pm

Tanya

Member

I’m so happy that I can finally find jeans that fit nicely are not premium-priced! It has taken awhile any many shopping trips, but I have found the curvy fit at LOFT wonderful and are laundering just as nice as my AG premium denim. Although my AG jeans are so comfy and durable.

January 13, 2015 at 10:20 pm

chadya

Veteran

Coming back to add
I think you have to find the brand that fits your body and stay with it.
As I said upthread GAP works for me, and a few pairs of AG and Joes but only on sale
Also not too much poly or spandex because then they stretch out too much as you wear them

NYDJ have a nice rise but I am sized out at the low end , If you like that brand and have a Nordstrom Rack near you be sure to check them out.

January 14, 2015 at 5:55 am

shipskitty

Veteran

I’ve never really explored premium denim. But after all the discussion above I think I will have to explore this a bit more and see if it could work for me – at least where the sizing ranges allow.

January 22, 2015 at 10:16 pm

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