Statements in Pattern and Colour by Lela Rose

I loved this show and was captivated from the very first outfit. There was a grey, cream and black box pleated knee-length geometric printed skirt worn with a chevron striped sweater that was too fabulous for words. It was finished off with a short salt and pepper wool coat worn open that added the final lady-like touch. Unfortunately we don’t have a photo of that outfit, but I want to wear that ensemble right now. 

The collection was an impressive mixture of classic pieces with a big fat does of MODERN. It also captured just the right amount of glamour and edge, a vibe I really appreciate when it’s not overly dramatic. The retro ’40s inspired hairstyles of the models were a final fun addition. I really didn’t want this show to end – it was that fab.

The colour palette was gorgeous. A range of greys, ink blue, mid blue, black and cream, spice tones like rust, deep red, brown and mustard, and luxurious purple and burgundy. There was a splattering of black, and when it was shown, it was predominantly with cream. I loved how the lack of black lightened up the entire feeling of the collection. 

The toppers were lovely. Some with oversized collars and some without collars. Some fitted and some voluminous. They were all worn open, even the double breasted styles. The colourblocking was subtle. 

Rose’s collection had a wonderful variety of patterns, with some interesting pattern mixing. When compared to Brandon Sun’s collection, Rose’s designs are less texture rich and more refined. But in a way, that makes the cut and the drape of the garments more of a statement. 

Midis are definitely sticking around, both in pencil and full skirted silhouettes. Very happy about that! Necklines were also quite high, which makes for a nice change. Mixing soft with rigid fabrications is an ongoing great trend.  

Lela Rose’s evening dresses were very pretty. Many of them were patterned, something that has not been popular at all. We tend to think of solids as most formal, but I think those days are over. Patterns have become just as dressy and chic as solids. Chevrons, swirls, checks, blocks and spider web designs ruled Rose’s runway, with the odd bit of ’50s floral thrown into the mix. 

I was less in love with the glitzy embellishment, but it had stage presence for sure. I also enjoyed the retro bustles and front pleated draping on the fancier frocks. The strapless dresses worn over gauzy tops are how I like strapless garments best: Sheer and alluring, yet covered and interesting. 

Go to our New York Fashion Week Page to see all of our coverage, including a photo stream and live Twitter updates.

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Fashion Week Day 2: A Full Skirt and a Firefighter

I knew I would be in the mood for something flirty and feminine after the bright and tight outfit that I wore the day before. I enjoy wearing full skirts just as much as their sleek penciled friends. This patterned skirt from Kate Spade is made of a stiff brocade that reminds me of upholstery. Ideally I’d have preferred it to be a couple of inches longer because, to my eye, that would look more elegant. I tried lengthening the skirt but there wasn’t enough hem. I can happily live with it’s knee length because the side entry pockets sold the skirt to me in the first place, along with the ease and swoosh of the style. 

The skirt came with a narrow black patent bowed belt, which did not tickle my toes. Too twee. So I swapped it out for a patterned zebra version to change up the vibe. A little pattern mixing and a little texture. I continued the subtle pattern mixing and animal print theme with the hose. 

This skirt looks good with chunky three inch pumps. But that wasn’t going to work at fashion week where I am on my feet the whole day. Instead, I matched it with old low heeled biker booties. I can walk for miles in these peds — and did. I also like the way they contrast against the girly integrity of the skirt. 

There is a lot going on at the bottom of the outfit, which is contrary to my usual minimal style. Pattern, texture, buckles AND shine. A plain black tucked-in turtleneck MUST simplify the look. I didn’t want to add a jacket because that would maximize the outfit even more. So I wore thermal undies to keep out the chill, along with my bright red coat. I’m wearing the same frame handled structured cream tote, but swapped out the specs for an oversized catseye style.  

These photos were taken at a fire station close to our hotel on the Upper West Side. As Greg was taking photos, firefighter Wayne jumped in and joined us on our shoot. Firefighters hold a special place in my heart because they fearlessly risk their lives on a daily basis to save other people and their property, so it’s very special that Wayne was part of this photoshoot.

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Go to our New York Fashion Week Page to see all of our coverage, including a photo stream and live Twitter updates from Angie.

Brandon Sun’s Dramatic Textured Neutrals

Brandon Sun is a “new to me” designer and I really enjoyed his presentation. Outfits were both dramatic and relaxed. Of course, the hair and make-up of the models was over the top, which added a theatrical quality to the collection. But if you strip down the components of the outfits, they are absolutely wearable. And often in the combinations shown on the models. 

Sun mixed texture in a big way. From wispy chiffon to rigid leather. From fur to boiled wool. From crepe to cabled hand knits. From velvet to shearling. From topstitching to distressing. From suede to poodle-like fur. It was a tactile party to say the least, and very effective.

The colour palette was almost completely neutral with a splattering of pale lilac and blush pink. Black, cream, all sorts of grey, olive and brown reigned supreme. Oversized collars, oversized belts, oversized scarves and oversized trims gave the collection it’s impact. Even the sleeves on jackets were deliberately too long, which had a luxurious appeal.

Outfits were very layered and most of them were waist surrendering. But somehow the unstructured outfits were tailored in just the right places. I loved the midi lengths of the skirts and the floor scraping lengths of the trousers. The outfits had a strong slouchy integrity that I found interesting and fab.

Although this collection was about layered looks, I liked the unlayered outfits best. The simplicity of the two outfits below struck a chord with my minimal side. I especially like the baggy black trousers with the cream cable knit sweater and tonal un-tucked top. It’s quite a classic outfit if you think about it. But it’s amped up by the punk hairstyle of the model which adds significantly to the look. I love this juxtaposition.

Go to our New York Fashion Week Page to see all of our coverage, including a photo stream and live Twitter updates from Angie.

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Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Book Nook: Lasting Impact

New York Fashion Week is all about designers showcasing their newest collections. As we speak, models are walking the runways in the styles, colours and silhouettes that we’ll be seeing in retail stores this Autumn. Most designers create at least two full collections a year, with clothes going into production three to six months before they hit stores. So constantly looking ahead is the name of the game when you are in the rag trade.

Fashion shows usually last around ten minutes, yet many catwalk looks have become legendary. Looking back, we all undoubtedly have our own favourites, but do you ever wonder what the designers themselves consider to be the absolute highlights? What they would like to be remembered for? In IMPACT – 50 Years of the CFDA over three hundred designers are asked precisely that question: “What is your biggest impact on American fashion?” With this book the Council of Fashion Designers of America celebrates its 50th anniversary. The accompanying IMPACT exhibition – presenting accessories and garments personally selected by the participating designers – opens today at The Museum at FIT. 

Which catwalk moments have stayed with you over the years?

Related Books
If the titles in today’s Book Nook are your cup of tea, you may also like:

Backstage with Tadashi Shoji

We had fun going backstage about an hour before the Tadashi Shoji Show to see the hustle and bustle of models, make-up artists and hair stylists. It was interesting to see the styling pros preparing the models for the show. Everyone was patient and calm in a space that was both chaotic and organized.  

The best part of the experience was meeting and speaking to Tadashi. Mr. Shoji is a soft spoken gentleman with a great smile and killer specs. He was very polite and modest when I mentioned how much we enjoy his shows. I could also see him light up when I mentioned how several of my clients like wearing his designs. He was feeling positive about his collection, and with good reason. 

I also loved seeing the garments hanging on rails, each waiting to adorn their model for a few minutes of glory. I spent quite a bit of time absorbing their details. Then it was on to the show itself to see the very same garments in all their runway magnificence.

Go to our New York Fashion Week Page to see all of our coverage, including a photo stream and live Twitter updates from Angie.

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