When to Shop in the Plus Size Department

This is less straightforward than it might seem. In the USA plus size departments start their size range at 14/16, 14W, or 1X. Regular or “Missy” departments often go up to a size 16, sometimes even a size 18 (or XXL). So if you wear a US size 14, 16 or 18, chances are high that you shop in both Missy and Plus in order to find a garment that fits. 

I see this first hand with my clients who wear sizes 14 to 18. They shop all over the show. Sometimes they can wear the largest size in Missy, or the smallest size in Plus, which is great because it gives them a larger assortment of merchandise to choose from. But sometimes the opposite holds true when they are “between” departments. Size 14 and 16 gals often find that the largest size in Missy is too small but the smallest size in Plus is too large. Intuitively, you’d expect that the smallest size in Plus would be cut a size up from the largest size in Missy. But it’s actually cut wider and larger everywhere, and is not just an even size up. So things don’t end up fitting at all.

It’s very frustrating when you are in-between department sizes. The solution is to keep on searching and fitting all sorts of clothing brands until you find Missy size garments that are cut larger and Plus size garments that are cut smaller. I also sometimes suggest having slightly too large Plus size items altered to fit. It’s a time-consuming process, but we end up finding great items eventually.

If I were in a position to design and manufacture a clothing line, I would make a range from sizes 14 to 18 across petite, regular and tall lengths my specialty. Seeing as the average American woman wears a size 14 dress, it would make sense for someone in retail to tackle this HUGE gap in the market right away.

The Four Implicit Categories in Your Shopping List

Most of us keep a seasonal shopping list as we update and replenish our wardrobe, and evolve our style. Perhaps it is a formal shopping list that you write down somewhere, or maybe you keep it in your head and mentally tick things off as you go. Whichever way works for you, you’ll find that each item on your list probably fits into one of these four categories. 

Wardrobe Holes

These are the items that complete outfits and capsules. Or they are stand-alone items like coats, dresses and evening wear. For example, you might be in desperate need of a puffer coat now that you’ve moved to a colder climate. Or, heeled oxfords would complete your Winter frock and skirt outfits, which you don’t wear at the moment because you lack the right footwear to complete the looks. Or, you keep on wearing the same black sheath to dressy functions and it’s uncomfortably cold. What you really need is a versatile le Smoking that you can mix and match with different tops as well as keep you warm.  

New Trends

These are new silhouettes that tickle your fancy. For example, you have plenty of blue skinny jeans which you like to wear with boots or booties, so patterned skinnies have piqued your interest. Or you fancy the new bomber jacket and daytime clutch trend. Or you’re sick of the dark colours in your wardrobe, which makes you like all things pastel. These aren’t necessarily wardrobe holes because your outfits are adequately complete without them. But you can fill a wardrobe hole with a trendy piece. For example, you are short on jeans, so instead of adding another pair of straight legs, you added a “new for you” slouchy boyfriend style instead. 

Replenishment Items

These are wardrobe essentials or basics that often need replacing because they get a LOT of wear. Wardrobe Essentials are the indispensable staples without which your wardrobe would not function. Wardrobe Basics are things like underwear, shape wear, socks, hosiery, sleepwear and loungewear. 

Unexpected Delights

This is the extra fun part of your shopping list that is entirely spontaneous. After all, the element of surprise can be magical. You might have an inkling of what these unplanned purchases will be, but often you don’t know the item is on your list until you see it, fall in love with it, and have to have it.

It might seem strange to have unexpected items as a category on your list, but I believe it helps to  view them this way. First, it is a reality that these will pop up and consume some of your shopping budget. You may even want to set aside a certain portion of your budget for this. And second, it legitimizes some spontaneity. It is impossible to effectively plan every wardrobe purchase because you don’t know what you’ll run into, or how your style preferences will change. Sometimes it’s these unplanned items that end up becoming your favourite pieces and wardrobe work horses of the future. 

On my Spring shopping list are several new trends and some wardrobe essentials that need replenishing. I don’t have any wardrobe holes at the moment, and I’m covered with basics (although I’m often looking for the right socks). Black booties were a wardrobe hole in Winter, but I’ve taken them off my shopping list for now because I know that in six weeks I’m going to be much more interested in white booties. 

Keeping your wardrobe purchases focused and in line with your needs and wants is the reason we take the trouble of keeping a seasonal shopping list in the first place. As fun as it is to make all our purchases “unexpected delights”, that’s often how we end up with a closet full of stuff and nothing to wear. Or too many options to choose from. Or a shortage of items that you wear day to day. Or unnecessary duplications. Or a wardrobe for your imaginary lifestyle. 

Keeping a seasonal shopping list that is flexible, but not vague, will help to create a balance between wardrobe discipline and having fun with fashion. 

Team ’70s or Team ’90s

You are on Team ’70s if you prefer ’70s fashion or ’70s inspired fashion. You are on Team ’90s if you prefer ’90s fashion or ’90s inspired fashion. Note that today’s fashion that is inspired by the decade but not actually of that decade counts towards your preference. 

Neither of these decades is close to my heart because I’m an ’80s and ’60s gal. But I do enjoy aspects of both. The glam trouser suits and fitted blazers of the ’70s were divine, as were the tailored and tucked shirts with pointy collars, huge sunglasses, belted leather trench coats, pussy bow blouses and disco fever. The early ’90s brings back fantastic memories of wearing grungy plaid flannel shirts, workwear boots, rugged belts with big buckles, distressed denim and Levis 501s. I’m also grateful that the ’90s toned down hectic big ’80s hair and clownish makeup.

Although I was a child back then, I fondly remember the amazing outfits my Mum and her friends wore, and I so wanted to be grown up and wear them too. I LOVED watching Charlie’s Angels in the ’70s and thought that Jacqueline Smith was a goddess. There’s a glamourous aspect of that decade that wasn’t hippie and bohemian, and that’s why I’m batting for Team ’70s. 

Over to you. Are you Team ’70s or Team ’90s? Tell us why and no batting for both teams. 

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Q&A: Bootcut and Skinny Jeans

Note that I’m lumping straight leg jeans into the “skinnies” category because for some, straight legs are their skinnies. Both skinnies and straight legs are tapered at the leg and that’s the important detail. 

My clients have had a lot of questions about bootcut and skinny jeans lately. Are bootcuts dated? Are skinnies dated? I feel frumpy in my bootcuts, but do I have the figure for skinnes? I’m sick of wearing skinny jeans, but what else can I wear when I lead a casual lifestyle and I don’t like bootcut jeans? 

All great questions, and here are my thoughts and suggestions.  

Are bootcuts dated? 

Absolutely not. I frequently shop with my clients for bootcut jeans. And when we can find a great pair of trouser jeans with a slightly more flared bootcut silhouette, they are always a hit with pointy toe pumps or booties. Skinnies, straight legs, flares, wide legs, boyfriend jeans and slouchy jeans styles are more fashionable, but bootcuts are definitely still stylish. If you love them, wear them. 

Are skinnies dated?

Absolutely not. Skinny jeans, and that includes straight legs, are still extremely on trend and totally mainstream. If you don’t like the extra narrow look on your lower leg, opt for the roomier cut of straight legs. I often pop ladies with an inverted triangle body type into straight leg jeans, especially when they wear two to three sizes larger on top than on the bottom, because the added width of the leg helps to balance out the proportions. 

I feel frumpy in my bootcuts, but do I have the figure for skinnes?

It helps to wear a heel, low or high, to temper the flat footed frump factor associated with bootcuts. Regarding skinnies and your figure, I believe that we can all wear a version of the skinny jean, which means that for some a roomier straight leg is best. It’s all about creating flattering proportions with the right fit of jeans, tops, and footwear. 

I’m sick of wearing skinny jeans, but what else can I wear when I lead a casual lifestyle and I don’t like bootcut jeans? 

You have options. Substitute skinny jeans with skinny cords or Ponte knit pants. Size up on skinnies to create a slouchier look. Wear boyfriend jeans. Wear casual pants like slouchy khakis or combat pants. Wear tailored trousers, either tapered or flared, with casual outfit elements. Wear casual skirts and dresses. 

By all means add your thoughts in the comments. I’d love to hear them! The tension between these two styles of denim can stir considerable emotions.

Your Spring 2013 Shopping List

Spring items are hitting stores and as always, I am most excited about the new season right at the start of its cycle. I start visualizing my refreshed Spring and Summer look when designers showcase their collections at the major Fashion Weeks, which was September and October last year. From then on I keep a very flexible list, and more recently a pinboard, of trends and items that intrigue me as I update my wardrobe. 

With my style goals in mind, this is what’s on my Spring and Summer 2013 shopping list so far:

  • Jeans: I’ve passed on all my body con skinnies so my denim capsule needs refreshing. My straight leg white jeans are shot and I need another pair of faded jeans that aren’t cropped like my boyfriend jeans. So I’m looking for roomier pairs of white jeans and faded jeans. 
  • Floral blazer: A fresh and romantic piece for a cool Seattle Summer. 
  • Tuxedo shirts: I’m thinking of making them a wardrobe essential both in white and light blue.
  • Slouchy white trousers: They’ll make a nice change to jeans. 
  • Pastel trouser suit: I’m toying with the idea because it’s so fably ’80s. And seeing as we are attending a wedding in July, this could be the right outfit for the occasion. 
  • Long slouchy shorts: I haven’t seen these in stores yet, but they are supposed to be trending. 
  • T-shirt blouse: We saw them appear in Zara a few months ago, a blouse cut in the shape of a roomy t-shirt, and I’d like to get a couple to wear in the same way that I wear my button down shirts. 
  • Flat oxfords: I’ve walked my black and white flat oxfords into the ground so I’m looking some space-age-y silver flat oxfords as a replacement. 
  • Pointy toe flats or pumps: Not sure about the colours or patterns yet, but I’m 100% into pointy toed footwear. 
  • White Booties: To wear with the longer shorts and perhaps existing dresses and skirts. 

Our Springs feel like Winter and are Summers are short, so I have to keep my shopping weakness under control this season. Nothing on this list is cast in stone, and I reserve the right to change my mind as the shopping season unfolds. Father Christmas kindly kickstarted my Spring wardrobe with a black lace bomber jacket and two toned waxed denim jacket, so I’m feeling seasonally refreshed already. 

Over to you. What’s on your Spring and Summer 2013 shopping list?