The Fluid Fit

Forum member Vildy recently mentioned that she likes clothing pieces that capture “fluidity without excess volume”. That’s what she liked about the fit of my long cobalt shorts. I used the word drapey to describe the shorts. But I much prefer Vildy’s use of the word fluid, and will be using it from now on to describe clothing items that are looser than a tailored fit and quite roomy. But they aren’t roomy and baggy enough to be described as intentionally oversized and slouchy. It’s what I am calling The Fluid Fit

My structured fits are usually on the looser side of tailored, and now I can refer to this preferred fit as fluid. I like a fluid fit because to my eye, clothing often looks more flattering when it’s slightly loose on the body. The effect is slimming, camouflaging of lumpage and bumpage, and streamlined. But not too loose that garments look ill-fitting, or too unstructured that you disappear in your outfit. Furthermore, I find a fluid fit extra comfortable because I can drive, reach, bend over, and walk fast without feeling restricted. 

Granted there is also a time for a very formfitting piece in my style, like the way I like to wear a black turtleneck, or some of my dresses. But for the most part, I like my clothing fits truly tailored, fluid, or oversized. 

I was wondering whether you also enjoy wearing a fluid fit. Do you think that wearing a structured item that is slightly looser all over has a slimming effect? Or do you feel your most streamlined in a true tailored and/or bod con fit? Remember that this is all about personal fit preference, and that there is no right or wrong answer.

A Birthday Skirt and Electric Blue

I turn 43 today and feel fabulous because I’m enjoying my birthdays even more in my forties than I did in my thirties. I find that I get more self-aware and self-accepting with age, which is liberating and empowering. I embrace being a fashion professional in my mid-forties because it’s important that all ages are represented in the world of style. This makes me even more determined to continue doing what I love to do, which is helping others find their magical sense of style. And making sure we have fun along the way. 

I’m wearing three new items in my birthday outfit, along with one old piece and one iconic, vintage piece. I get a kick out of mixing new and old wardrobe items in one outfit because it gives me satisfaction to know that my old pieces were good purchases and are still going strong.

Ivy Full

Ivy Close

The new Jil Sander Gaberdine skirt was a gift from Greg. It’s unheard of for there to be one item left on the sale rack in my size. But there it was waiting for me and meant to be. I tried it on and when Greg said that it was the best skirt he had ever seen, it found a new home. 

You know when you love something so, so, so much that you don’t want to take it off in the dressing room? That’s what happened with this skirt. I love the fit, which is unlike most straight skirts. The waistline comes up above my natural waist so it’s high-waisted. The side seams stand away from my thighs and bottom so it’s not fitted like a pencil skirt. It doesn’t have a slit because it’s sufficiently roomy when I stride. And it has two front pockets — my favourite part. It’s made of a very stiff and thick cotton that does not drape, yet it’s comfortable to wear. 

Turn

Back Close

I tried on several tops with the somewhat unique shape of the skirt to figure out which combinations worked best. Tucked soft draped tops were the ticket. Untucked tops, unless they were very short, looked awful because you need to showcase the structured waist detail of the skirt in order for it to look fab. And stiff tops looked too stiff against the rigid fabric of the skirt. Enter the Alyssa shirt from Club Monaco in electric blue, and also a gift from Greg. It has snaps instead of buttons, and long chest pockets. The slightly dolman sleeves make for a nice change, and I adore its roomy fit and extra sheerness. I buttoned up the snaps right up to the top and layered a black camisole underneath. 

Orange Wall

I like the outfit best sans topper because it’s strong and simple that way. But we often need a cover-up for part of the day in Seattle, so I must have that option too. My old black tuxedo jacket fits the bill because it’s cropped and semi structured, thereby complementing the lines of the skirt. Part of the jacket is boxy and stands away from the torso, just like the skirt. They match! Plus black, white and bright blue is an attractive colour palette, that I’m wearing more often this year. 

Jacket Full

Jacket Close

Jacket Side

I can’t believe I found comfortable ankle strap pumps after searching for them for over a year. Patience does pay off. The dainty and low heeled Okala pump is just how I wanted to finish off the outfit along with the black Chanel clutch that I’ve had for twenty years. I’ve put the new pumps through their paces for two hours of shopping and I’m thrilled to report happy feet! I like to keep the ankle straps loose because it’s comfortable and to my eye, looks flattering that way. No jewelry other than a watch, wedding ring and specs.

Shoes

I’ll be wearing this tonight when we celebrate my birthday at Nishino. I also look forward to wearing the blue blouse with black bottoms, and the skirt with a black top and knee-high boots. This outfit has a high happiness factor because it incorporates items that are gifts from Greg. Outfits like that are the best of all.

Run

Fab Find: The Invisibelt

The Invisibelt is a narrow plastic belt with an adjustable strap and small buckle that lies extremely flat against the waistline. It’s invisible when you wear untucked tops, which is how it gets its name. The belt without the bulk.

I have a handful of clients who enjoy wearing an Invisibelt. Some wear the belt to prevent jeans and trousers from falling down when they’re a little loose on the waist, or bag out during the day. Usually, I suggest having the waistline tailored when this happens, but sometimes it’s just not worth the trouble when the waist is just slightly too big, or grows after the first wear. 

Others wear the Invisibelt when they are on a weight loss programme and can’t keep up with how their clothes are outgrowing their diminishing size. The Invisibelt allows them to wear a particular size of bottoms for longer. Either way, the belt works like a charm.

Invisibelt

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Jacket Trends For Fall 2013

DKNY Leather Paneled Stretch Wool BlazerMid-Season Summer sales have come to an end and Fall collections are on the way. Can you believe it! The seasonal switcheroo seems to happen a little earlier each year, but I’m not complaining. It will be Autumn weather in my neck of the woods before you know it. 

Here are six big jacket trends for Fall and Winter 2013. Each trend is very broad and can be interpreted through many different styles, fabrications and colours, both in tailored and oversized fits. Despite this variety, the overriding silhouette will make the jacket distinguishable as “a moto”, “blazer” or “bomber”. 

Bomber: We saw bombers fringe trending last year and now they’re mainstream. They are boxy, sporty, and fabulous with dresses, skirts and tapered trousers.

Moto: This is an iconic classic — especially in a tailored fit — that can be paired with just about anything. Cutting edge motos are very oversized, and literally look four sizes too big. I doubt these fashion forward versions will go mainstream, but you can’t go wrong with the iconic classic.

Blazer: A clean-cut modern classic that is updated every few years. Trendy blazers have a low stance with one or two buttons, and a narrow revere collar. Or they are double-breasted with a low stance. They are “multi media” and might have leather, lace, or colour blocked insets. 

Tuxedo: Another modern classic we borrowed from the boys. They’re popping up in all sorts of patterns, lengths and colours, which make them all the more fun and different. 

Military: It’s an officer’s military jacket complete with shiny buttons and the odd epaulette. This flavour of military jacket wafts in an out of fashion, and each time it does, there’s something a little new about the look. This season we’ll see cropped and boxy military jackets alongside the longer tailored versions. 

Avant-garde: A non-classic style that is arty, sometimes asymmetrical, architectural and boxy, usually quite dramatic, and full of interesting design elements that make it unique. Avant-garde styles have a long expiry date because they are pretty trend-immune, but don’t look classic either. 

Round Shoulder: The round shoulder jacket is all over current catwalk shows, both in tailored and oversized silhouettes. Its balloon shape over the shoulder and sleeve creates a very round effect, which is how it gets its name. They are like the jacket version of a cocoon coat. The bomber jacket in a rigid fabrication creates a similar “round shoulder effect”, and that could be your way of sporting the trend. I expect the oversized versions to stay fringe, because it’s easy to feel swallowed up in the style. But the tailored versions look very wearable, and it wouldn’t surprise me if they fly out of stores. 

You’ll also find jackets that are hybrids of these trends, like a moto with military flare, a blazer with avant-garde detailing, or a round shoulder jacket with a tuxedo collar. You’ll see familiar styles in unexpected fabrications. Like a tweed moto, leather blazer, or sporty bomber in suiting fabric. 

I love Fall fashion so I’m excited to see it in stores. At the same time I’m really enjoying my Summer clothes because we’re finally having wonderfully warm Summer days in Seattle. I am sans jacket for most of the day and it’s blissful.

Nanushka Isco Bomber JacketSea Leather Insert BlazerVEDA Topaz Leather Jacket

Burberry Wool Twill Military Jacket

Burberry Sculptural Biker Jacket

Rachel Zoe Keira Crop JacketJil Sander Funnel Neck Wool Coat

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An Outfit Evaluation Checklist

Tick off the items on this checklist when you choose an outfit in the morning to ensure that you feel attractive, comfortable and appropriate for the day. The process sounds theoretical and time-consuming, but after a little practice, asking yourself these five questions becomes fast and intuitive. 

1. Are the colours and proportions flattering?  

Some outfits will be conventionally flattering, whereas others will sacrifice a little conventional flattery in lieu of an edgier or fashion forward look. Troubleshoot problem outfits until you are happy with the proportions. Most importantly, the outfit should reflect your figure flattering priorities. 

Check whether the colours work together and are flattering against your complexion.

2. Does the outfit map back to your Style Descriptor? 

My clients have a style descriptor, or a set of adjectives that describe what they want their style to convey. For example, client Meredith is a Playful Modern Classic who enjoys Bohemian, Bombshell, Androgynous and Retro touches once in a while. She wants to look tailored, playful, professional and approachable.

If you’re struggling with an outfit, think about how it maps to your style descriptor. 

3. Is the outfit right for the setting? 

Make sure your outfit is business casual if that’s the dress code at work. Or super casual if you’re off to the park with the kids. A little dressier if you’re going to the opera or theatre. Playful and creative if you’re going to an arty gallery. And fancy if you’re going to a formal wedding. 

4. Is the outfit weather appropriate?  

Taking into account the weather is of utmost importance. There is no sense in wearing a look that is too warm or not sufficiently insulating for the day. Dress for the elements.

5. Are you comfortable? 

Some days require extremely comfortable outfits because you’re moving around a lot and/or walking long distances. Others demand less physical activity and in these situations, you can probably sacrifice a little comfort. Being comfortable for the activities of the day is an important practical consideration. 

I have been focused on getting dressed in the morning, but this five question checklist is also useful during an outfit creation session like the ones I have with my clients. In this situation you are spending a bit more time and thinking about your style in general, so there are three additional questions you might want to consider. 

  • Is the outfit in your comfort zone?
  • Does the outfit evolve your style?
  • Does the outfit incorporate a little bit of now?

I mentioned these points in a recent post on ensuring that your needs drive your outfit creation process.

It’s not essential to satisfy every condition on the checklist, but satisfying as many of them as possible will increase your outfit happiness factor and boost your confidence. Then you can forget about your outfit and get on with the rest of your day.