Spring Tweed Jacket Inspiration

Spring tweed jackets are textured, cotton-rich, lightweight and interesting. And you can wear them well into Summer in air-conditioned settings. As often happens, the item is a modern classic having its trendy moment. It’s fun when that happens. 

A Spring and Summer tweed jacket is often easier to fit and wear than a Fall and Winter version because it’s softer, lighter and drapier. Spring tweed usually follows the contour of the body making the silhouette work for all sorts of body types. Of course, some styles are softer and draper than others, and you have to choose your silhouette quite carefully. You probably don’t want a very cropped, stiff, button-through and boxy version because those don’t seem to make any of my clients happy. Ideally, you’re after a slightly longer silhouette with some shape in a SOFT tweed. That said, the longer and boxier versions work well in moto silhouettes, while the shorter lengths work well in fitted silhouettes. Again, good drape is key in this silhouette, so look for that above everything else. 

Many of the styles are collarless, although some have revere collars, shawl collars and drape-front collars. I like Spring tweed jackets best in light neutrals, but they can work in any colour. Many of the styles have fringe detailing, which is what makes them particularly fashionable at the moment. Some are lined and others not. Some are patterned and others are solid. The Chanel-esque silhouettes look extra ladylike, while the moto styles look more masculine. Spring tweed in a fitted blazer silhouette looks the most classic to my eye. 

Remember that irregular outfit juxtaposition is an ongoing theme in modern fashion, so the Spring tweed jacket needn’t look precious and overly girly. You don’t need to wear it with a dressy pair of trousers or skirt, although that’s a beautiful look too. Check out these street style examples that put Spring tweed through their stylish paces.

Tweed Jacket Street Style

The weather is only just beginning to warm up here in Seattle, but many of my clients have been drawn to the semi-fitted and fitted Spring tweed jacket both for smart casual and business casual dress codes. I guess they are craving structure and tailoring after seasons of baggy and relaxed fits.

I was drawn to the Spring tweed jacket right away because it looks Soft, Pretty and Modern Retro to my eye, which is in line with my current style goals. It also looks FRESH.

I went for one from J.Crew with an ink blue zipper down the centre front. The zipper makes a statement when the jacket is left open, and this is how I will wear it most often. Great with white and blue cropped straight leg jeans and silver belt and footwear. A roundup of Spring tweed jackets will follow later today with some suggestions about the silhouettes that work for different body types.

Will you wear a Spring tweed jacket? 

The Shifting Goal Posts of Conventional Figure Flattery

You can think of garment fit and outfit proportions as running along a continuum with conventionally flattering proportions on one end and so-called unflattering proportions on the other. The thing about trends is that they are often unconventional and therefore not conventionally flattering. Over time, our collective eyes will adjust and what we view as conventionally flattering will change. But in the meantime, exploring the trends, having fun with fashion, and wearing what feels most comfortable, is often about pushing this boundary.

Conventionally flattering proportions create a streamlined silhouette with a long neck and leg line. They celebrate the female form by accentuating the curve on the bust and hip, and defining the waist. Fits are neither too tight nor too loose, but beautifully tailored. Outfits are structured with few or no horizontally cutting lines. The idea is that these outfit proportions accentuate your “assets” and make your body look its best. 

On the other end of the continuum, fits are either too tight or too loose by conventional standards. Outfits are often unstructured in the extreme, surrendering the waist and ignoring the curve on the bust and the hip. The neck and leg line are usually severely shortened, and there are many horizontally cutting lines in the outfit. 

It used to be that conventionally flattering proportions were the way to look stylish. Outfit proportions that strayed from the benchmark were deemed less flattering, or even unflattering. Things have changed. The wonderful thing about our current fashion era is that we’re becoming more tolerant than ever of outfits that defy conventional figure flattery. It is an era that accepts and even encourages all sorts of outfit juxtapositions and silhouettes. Often the edgier and more fashion-forward the outfit, the less conventionally flattering the proportions. 

This is wonderful, but it is also means that the tried-and-true guidelines associated with conventional figure flattery are less useful than they used to be. So I have found it very useful to think in terms of outfits that are just flattering enough. These are outfits that sacrifice some conventional figure flattery to be more fashion-forward, or more comfortable, but they keep just enough of the traditional guidelines to make us feel confident. Typically by adding a little structure or elongating the lines in just the right places. These little tweaks make all the difference, taking the outfit out of unflattering territory.

This is the modern approach to creating outfits. The results are more interesting, and allow us to feel more comfortable and creative in our outfit choices. And as our eyes adjust to outfits that are just flattering enough, they will become conventionally flattering. We will be able to push the boundaries even further. This shifting of the figure flattery goal posts is inevitable, and I’m curious to see where fashion, outfit proportions and figure flattery will be ten years from now.

Of course, figure flattery is in the eye of the beholder, and we all have different thresholds that define when an outfit is just flattering enough. That’s why dressing according to your own figure flattering priorities is the best guideline that I can offer. Whether you prefer conventionally flattering proportions or veer much further up the continuum to create outfits that are just flattering enough, it’s all good. The most important thing is to listen to how you FEEL in an outfit.

Link Love: New York Fashion Week F/W 2016

While many of us in the Northern hemisphere are getting ready to refresh our Spring wardrobes, designers are showing their Fall/Winter 2016 collections in New York City this week. I’m enjoying following the media coverage, and wanted to share a few things that caught my eye:

Fab Links from Our Members

Annagybe thought designer Yohji Yamamoto says some very interesting things about the current state of avant-garde fashion in this older interview, especially in view of the recent forum conversation on the COS collection.

Suz reports bad news for Canadian forum members. The beloved Danier leather stores are set to close if a buyer cannot be found.

Sally talks about accessorization and figure flattery. Angie thought the guidelines are a great starting point on the subject.

Kkards came across an interesting take on why fashion retail is struggling.

UmmLila had never heard the term “fuccboi” before, but she thought this Racked article had some interesting points about following trends in fashion just for the sake of following them.

Joyce B found this interesting Ted talk from model Ashley Graham on body acceptance.

In case you need just a bit more shoe love after Angie’s two posts last week, Murph11 wanted to share this footwear trend post.

Vildy is intrigued by Kelly Reemtsen’s work, depicting women in typical retro fit-and-flare frocks, usually holding some kind of large implement or power tool.  

This Guardian article on how workout leggings set the pace in fashion caught Kiwigal/Sally’s attention.

This article, about how the Palace of Versailles has inspired the Oscar de la Renta Fall 2016 collection, is making La Belle Demimondaine want to wear brocades now!

What surprised Banoffi in this article on “fast fashion” and the growing number of retailers who are offering durable and ethical alternatives, is that women wear most garments an average of 7 times.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Business Casual Capsule for Spring 2016

Some of my clients go shopping once for Spring and once for Fall and that’s it. They’re happy to top up with new footwear, accessories and the occasional party dress during the year, but prefer to get the bulk of their annual shopping done in two sessions. 

This shopping strategy does not work for everyone. Not at all, and most of my clients prefer to shop more frequently throughout a retail season. But it can work for clients who have very demanding jobs, travel extensively, and have a family. As a professional who needs to look absolutely tip top, it sounds daunting to get your seasonal shopping done in one day. But actually it’s quite manageable for three reasons.

First, I’ve been working with these clients for years and know exactly what they have in their wardrobes (most of which we purchased together). Second, there is a generous budget. And third, their wardrobes are already filled with beautiful pieces that relate well to each other. A quick top-up with the right items after a seasonal closet edit and review is all that is required. 

I recently went Spring shopping with a client who shops in this way, and we got it all done in an afternoon. You’ll see the exact pieces that we chose in the collection at the end of the post, as well as photos of the items in the dressing room. For your visual benefit, I’ve put the capsule into a polyvore set, representing the items as accurately as I can. You can see the exact items we purchased in the finds I have added at the end of this post.

Business Casual Capsule for Spring 2016

A few things upfront about my client. She works in a corporate business casual environment and is polished in the extreme. She’s tall and hourglassy, and prefers a neutral wardrobe made up primarily of solids plus a few classic and tonal patterns. She enjoys impeccable quality and better-end pieces, pearl jewellery, and has a soft spot for shoes. She carries one bag for the season. She is a tailored Modern Classic, but enjoys a few trendy pieces to keep things interesting. She also wears a pair of very contemporary French blue specs that create a fabulous juxtaposition with her professional classics.

The items in the capsule mix, match and layer to create all sorts of fabulous outfits, but they ALSO work well with many of the items my client already has in her wardrobe, thereby creating even more outfits. 

We chose a palette of light neutrals and ink blue with a splash of colour for this capsule. We deliberately left out black, brown and grey because my client has those capsules fully covered for warmer weather. She is also covered with business formal suiting and dresses across all neutrals. We added more ink blue because it’s a new dark neutral for my client. As far as colours go, my client likes all sorts of blues and greens, and the occasional bright orange piece. We also started a blush capsule a few years ago and add a little to that every season.

Rail

Here are the items:

Bottoms: My client had a very good run with dressy, tailored and fashionable ankle pants over the last few seasons. In the spirit of, “it’s not broke, don’t fix it”, we added four more pairs to her trouser capsule. White, tan and ink blue wardrobe essentials. We added a pair of cropped kick flares in a textured blue fabrication for an ultra trendy touch. We also thought that a trendy textured ink blue midi with fun back zipper detailing would be a fabulous addition, since all her pencil skirts are black, white or patterned. 

Tops: We chose ten tops which are very different from each other to create maximum variety. Three pullovers, four blouses and three button-down shirts

The blouses and shirts can be fully tucked and semi-tucked with a belt, or worn untucked. They can also be layered under some of the pullovers and all the toppers. 

Toppers: We chose three toppers in different silhouettes. A long collarless jacket for extra drama in a small navy and tan geometric pattern. A tailored white leather jacket, and a Spring tweed blazer in shades of olive, grey and chartreuse. 

My client wears a topper to work that she keeps on indoors most days, but will also wear a pullover or blouse with statement jewellery and no topper. 

Footwear: My client has a thing for footwear and already has a beautiful assortment. We simply added more light, dark, bright and patterned footwear to create an even wider variety. An ultra trendy round toe block-heeled pump in navy, ankle strap pumps in nude and black, and pointy toe gold slingbacks. We are still looking for another pair of Summery animal print pumps and classic orange pumps. 

Accessories: All the outfits are completed with an assortment of fun gold, silver and pearl necklaces and bracelets, classic pearl or diamond studs, and contemporary oversized specs. Gold or white belts feature strongly, and there’s only one handbag (an off-white shoulder tote). My client has all these items in her wardrobe already. 

With the extra versatile capsule, plus the other items that she has back at home across different colour palettes, she’s set for the season. 

You might find it helpful to use this capsule as a template for your own business casual Spring refresher, even if the colours and the items are not exactly to your taste. Begin by pulling out the pieces that you have in your closet and lay them out on the bed. Note what’s missing and add it to your shopping list. Tweak the colours and silhouettes to suit your needs.

Here are the exact items in my client’s new business casual capsule for Spring 2016.

The Position of Your Full-Length Mirror

First things first. It’s important to have a full-length mirror at home so you can see your outfit from head to toe. You must see the impact of your footwear, hemline lengths, hairstyle and colour, overall outfit proportions, and colour harmony. You must see the outfit in its entirety to give it a fair thumbs up or down. 

Second, your full-length mirror needs to be positioned to give you the best possible light. That way you can accurately assess whether the colours of the items in the outfit work together, and how they work with your complexion.

Mirrors on the backs of doors in walk-in closets are normally less than ideal because closets are usually dark spaces with no natural light. Even when my clients do have a free-standing full-length mirror, I often find myself asking them to move it to a position that has better light during our outfit creation sessions. It makes a huge difference.

Greg and I have a huge full-length and quite ornate standing mirror in our bedroom which gets a lot of natural light despite our gloomy, grey weather. We put it there not only because it’s a beautiful decorative piece, but because or walk-in closet lacks light and space. 

Granted, dressing in the dark is inevitable when daylight is scarce in Autumn and Winter. But ideally you did check whether the outfit worked in natural light at some point. So make sure that your full-length mirror catches some daylight so that you and your outfit receive a fair assessment.