Fall & Winter 2020: 12 Specific Trends

After diving into the runway shows and doing a lot of research into what’s happening at retail, here are some of the specific trends I think we will see emerging to support and complement the big themes of Fall & Winter 2020. This goes into more detail than my post yesterday on the big themes for the season

1. Tall Boots

Dust off your tall boots. Think heeled or flat boots that are mid-calf, knee-high, and over-the-knee in dressy or casual styles. The idea is to wear them in that ‘70s, ‘80s and ’90s way. So combine taller boots with midis, minis, wide crops and skinnies. And tuck roomy pants/jeans into mid-calf boots with wide openings. Wear tall boots with hosiery and shorts. Throw in some Steampunk too.

2. Anoraks, Puffers, Parkas, Trench Coats, Raincoats

We are living in a fashion era where outerwear reigns supreme. The options are endless, the fabrics state of the art, and the silhouettes fun, architectural and functional. What used to be thought of as simply practical and not so stylish has become fashionable and fabulous. Wear practical outerwear with anything and make a statement with it.

3. Patchwork

Patchwork has a ‘70s bohemian vibe and works well in toppers, bags, and hats. It’s coming through in denim, dresses and tops too. Patchwork can be a creative way to fix damaged wardrobe items, or upcycle them. It’s also a way for designers and retailers to use leftover fabrics instead of wasting them.

4. Capes, Shawls, Blankets, Runanas, Ponchos, Big Cardigans

These less structured, casual, cosy, and comfy top layers have gained popularity over the years, and especially this year with more people working and staying at home. Wear them with pride and stylish intent, and remix them with dressy items.

5. Matching Sets

Outfit matching is big, but be creative about it. Think solid and patterned twinsets, two-piece dresses, two-piece jumpsuits, pantsuits, all sorts of accessory complements, jewellery sets, knitted top and bottoms sets, handbag, belt and shoe sets, and sock and top sets. Go Team Matchy-Matchy.

6. Argyles and Prep School

Think argyle pullovers, cardigans and sleeveless pullovers worn over shirts and blouses. Add a necktie if you like. Wear the combination with jeans, pants and skirts. Throw in matching argyle socks if you dare.

7. Metallic

Think metallic clothing, footwear and accessories and wear them with hard-edged leather, textured tweed, Athleisure, patterns, denim, lace, or soft and cosy knits. Create outfit tension, and add the glitz your way, even while working and staying at home.

8. Asymmetry

Asymmetrical hemlines on tops, dresses, toppers, and skirts are one way to wear asymmetry, but there are others. Try mismatched earrings and socks, two-toned clothing and hair colour, asymmetrical haircuts and one-shoulder dressing, outfit bows that are positioned to one side, and asymmetrically designed footwear.

9. Modern Equestrian

Think roomy and sleek trousers and jeans tucked into flat mid-calf, knee-high and over-the-knee boots. Wear these boots with skirts and dresses. Think long blazers, quilted vests, elbow patches on jackets, high-waisted jodhpur styles, polo shirts, stirrup pants, velvet trim on jackets, and cowboy boots with anything.

10. Relaxed Trouser Suiting

Wear a dressier suit in a loosely tailored or fluid fit with a tee, sweater, sneakers, hi-tops, and crossbody bag or backpack. Layer a gilet, vest or coat over the top. The suit can be solid, patterned, neutral or non-neutral. This is not meant to be an occasion dressing thing — just wear it, and get on with your day.

11. Statement Collars

Think disco collars, pussycat bows, neckties, Victorian and Edwardian collars, funnel necks, shawl collars, cowl necks, tuxedo collars, beaded and embroidered collars, and layering hoodies under jackets and coats.

12. Blues and Browns

You’ll find most colours this year, but blues and earth tones most of all. There are also all shades of pink, white, green and orange, and black from head to toe.

Remember that retailers will continue to supply the market with items that sell, regardless of the trends. Collectively, we consumers have more power to control what we see at retail than designers do. So we will continue to see pandemic-popular loungewear, gear, outdoorsy attire, comfy cozies, and Athleisure alongside the trendy looks and classics in stores.

11 Honoré Nova Blazer

Kule The Pitt

Wildfang Workwear Coverall

Kule The Cat

Fall & Winter 2020: 7 Big Themes

Trends are much less influential than they used to be, but the fashion industry is still incredibly creative and inspiring. It seems that almost anything goes, which is both frustrating and empowering. Frustrating, because we no longer have benchmarks clearly telling us what’s “in” and what’s “out.” Empowering, because every silhouette and proportional mix can look stylish when worn with conviction, confidence, a happy heart, and a good fit. 

Amidst all this chaos, here are seven big themes I see coming through this season.

1. Sustainability and Ethics

More and more designers and retailers are prioritizing sustainable and ethical manufacturing methods, making it easier for us to make sustainable and ethical style choices. They are pursuing goals of minimizing waste, upscaling, recycling, repurposing, making plant-based collections, slowing down, reducing carbon footprints, and using ethically sourced materials and manufacturing plants.

Sustainability means different things to different people, and some people are in a position to do more about it than others. There are few easy solutions, and many compromises. But we can all make a positive difference by being sustainable and ethical in our own way.

2. Do Your Own Thing (DYOT)

Style is a celebration of individuality. Full Stop. MILK IT.

As trends become less important, creating a signature style and evolving it over time becomes more important. Wear the trends, don’t wear them, remix them, repeat them, reinvent them, or stick to classics — it’s all good. Do your own thing.

3. Practical Comfort

Our modern way of life demands comfort as we multitask and work long hours. That’s why it’s trendy to wear fashion or athletic sneakers with anything, and to throw on leggings with a blazer, a sweatshirt with a pencil skirt, or a tee with a pair of dressy pants. Unstructured clothing, elasticated waists, technical fabrics, machine-washable workwear, clothing with hidden pockets, dressy flats and the oh-so-popular juxtaposition of remixing casual with dressy pieces continues to make a strong statement in today’s fashion.

4. Classics and Icons

Every classic and iconic item is having its fashionable moment as designers show us how to remix them in fresh ways to showcase versatility and prevent outfit boredom. This encourages us to hang on to these items instead of passing them on, because wearing an old item in a new way can be better than buying something new.

5. Happy Tension

There are many opposing trends that work in perfect harmony. Tailoring that is loose instead of structured. Maximalism is friends with minimalism. So-called clashing colours that complement one another. All sorts of casual remixed with all sorts of dressy. Cool tones that look great with warm tones. Pastels that are friends with brights. Slouch that can live with body-con, and sneakers with suits. All of this happy tension creates fashion diversity, increases longevity factors, and reinforces doing your own thing.

6. ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s

Today’s fashion is strongly influenced by three connected decades. The early ‘90s were a meaningful nod to the ’80s, and the mid ‘90s had lots of ‘70s appeal. This is another nod to sustainability, because it’s hip and fashionable to thrift and wear items that are several decades old.

Think flares, bootcuts, wide crops, tapered legs, scrunchies, high and mid rises, low rises, relaxed straights, the Matrix, vintage denim, faux fur and shearling, bohemian vibes, midis, Punk plaids, puffy sleeves, faux leather, geometric patterns, sharp shoulders, short A-line skirts, paperbag waists, oversized jackets and coats, fitted jackets, long blazers, short blazers, disco collars, big shirts, waistcoats, balloon-leg pants, body-con tops, oversized tops, waist belting, Dr. Martens, velvet, corduroy, pointy toes, square toes, power suits, tube skirts, aviator jackets, full-length straights with scrunch, cropped tops, dungarees, baggy jeans, cigarette pants, high-rise skinnies, slip dresses, corduroy, fringe, resin earrings, tiered skirts and dresses, and gothic black.

7. Slogans

Designers and retailers continue to use their influential platforms to make statements that are important to them and their brand. Many of the messages are political, but sometimes they’re light-hearted, funny, and take the mickey out of the fashion industry. YLF is not about politics, so the specifics of the messages are not the point here. But the trend is something we can incorporate into our own styles by wearing bold or subtle slogans and outfit combinations that showcase our personal convictions.

Wild Feminist Fleece Hoodie

Eloquii Colorblocked Faux Leather Coat

Spotlight: Wray by Wray Serna

Wray SernaWray is a New York-based company that was founded by Wray Serna who worked at Issy Miyake and Rachel Comey before going out on her own in 2015. Serna describes her collections as “fine art inspired clothing” because her designs are influenced by sculptures and paintings. The result is simple, fun, bold, comfortable, wearable and interesting clothing. Here is Serna in one of her designs with a mask to match.

The first word that comes to mind when I see Wray designs is playfulness. The volume of the silhouettes are modern, architectural, and have a relaxed elegance about them. They make a statement, yet are practical and easy to wear. There are lots of brights and patterns, but plenty of neutrals and solids too. The hand-painted prints in bold colours have a vintage flavour that makes me smile.

The best part about the Wray assortment is its size inclusivity. Many of the items are available from XS to 4XL, and a few to 5XL. Aidy Bryant from Saturday Night Live and TV show “Shrill” – which is a fabulous show! – wears Wray’s whimsical designs to perfection.

When browsing the items on the official site, you’ll see a diverse set of models. You’ll also see Wray Serna model some of the designs. She takes a photo with her phone in front of a mirror at home and posts it as the stock photo. There is something relatable, easy, down to earth, and real about that. Plus I find it compelling when a designer wears their own creations.

Collections are designed and developed in New York but every garment is created ethically at fair-trade operations in India, Hong Kong, and Peru. Production runs are small, exclusive, and all about slow fashion. Prices are not cheap, but seem fairly consistent with boutique pricing. Items are available online and at small select retailers across the globe. I’m drawn to quite a few of the tops, dresses and skirts, and will be keeping the brand on my radar.

Wray Penelope Shirt Dress

Wray Barry Pant

Wray Madison Top

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

Read More

Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

Read More

Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

Read More

Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

Read More

Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Outfit Formula: Teal Topper and Neutrals

Teal is a blue-green jewel tone. Some teals are more blue and others more green. They can be mid-toned, dark, or very dark. To me, turquoise is not the same as teal. Turquoise is also a blue-green combination, but isn’t as dark, and is a little warmer than teal because it has more yellow in the mix. 

If you enjoy wearing jewel tones and cool colours, you will probably like teal. That said, I have clients who wear warm earth tones with the best of them, as well as a cool teal. I also have clients who think of dark teal as a neutral, and wear it with everything. These outfits combine a teal topper with black, white and shades of blue. If those are your neutrals, think of adding teal to your wardrobe.

1. Moto

This look is easy to pull together. Combine a pair of faded blue jeans with a white top and snakeskin footwear. Top things off with a teal moto or blazer. A black or navy top can work instead of white. Light blue denim brings out the teal because it creates a contrast, but dark blue denim is great too. Black bottoms are another option.

Eloquii Faux Leather Moto Jacket

2. Wool Coat

A classic knee-length wool coat is very versatile. It can be worn over dresses, skirts, jeans, and pants at just about any length, and don’t worry too much about the difference in hem lengths. Just wear it! Here, a pleated back patterned skirt is paired with a black top, black bag, and black booties to pick up the black in the pattern. A teal coat tops things off, and I don’t think there is any teal in the pattern. It doesn’t match but it goes.

Ellgenc Long Belted Wrap Coat

3. Puffer

A teal puffer is a break from ubiquitous black. Feel free to top it over any outfit like this Athleisure look here. Think joggers, sweatpants and utility pants, with a tee or sweatshirt. I find longer puffers like the one shown here very versatile because they seem to effortlessly balance out the proportions of an outfit. Puffers can be very lightweight these days so you needn’t overheat in a long and heavy one. Light and long is a great option.

Ashley Stewart Belted Puffer Coat

4. The Kitchen Sink

This outfit is a maximal work of art. It effectively combines four patterns – plaid, stripes, floral and snakeskin – in the same colour palette which allows the eye to rest, and pulls the look together. A very texture-rich and dramatic coat in a blue shade of teal tops things off, and is in the same palette. A tee was layered under a midi slip dress, and finished off with tall laced boots, a coat, and newsboy hat. A little ‘60s and ‘70s, and totally delightful. Add jewellery, watch and eyewear as desired.

Who bats for Team Teal topper?

Michael Kors Distressed Shearling Sauvage Coat

Link Love: Second-Hand September

Second-hand September, now in its second year, is a campaign — organised by British charity Oxfam — encouraging people to avoid buying new clothing for the entire 30 days of the month to raise awareness of the environmental impact of fashion. More and more people around the globe are joining in, so here are a few links if you’d like to join in:

Fab Links from Our Members

Nemosmom liked this article that talks about how people might get dressed as they return to working in offices.

Nuancedream is excited about L.A.-based brand Almost There with their gorgeous and affordable collection of dresses as well as their commitment to size inclusivity and sustainability.

Liz directs us to this video about sewing the Dior collection: “I was fascinated as they pointed out the hidden details and master craftsmanship that went into these gorgeous items.”

Shevia encourages us to read these two articles about why fashion is not a trivial part of politics, and should not be trivialized (a pet peeve of hers).

Not everyone has the archive of garments that Jane Fonda does, but it is interesting that she has vowed not to buy anything new. Runcarla would like to see her outfits of the day for the past year.

Joy thought this was an interesting read about nail polish. She adds: “I realized years ago that my nails were stronger and healthier when left naked.”

Vildy was was amazed by this article about longing for an old normal, even to the extent of longing for a time we never experienced but imagine is safer and happier. 

She also really enjoyed this interview with Carine Roitfeld from a year ago: “Interesting to hear her talk about growing old, since she’s usually an example of someone who refuses to grow old/up. I guess all her advice to break the rules and be whole-hearted about new ideas wouldn’t sound like much coming from a woman half her age, but I think it shows the importance of enthusiasm in life. Interesting, too, is how she does trust and abide by the advice and opinions of her children. “