Must Haves for Spring and Summer 2014

Time for the seasonal must haves list now that Spring collections are in full swing and Summer is on the horizon. This is the best Spring season I’ve seen since moving to the US a decade ago. The assortment is large, the items are quite practical, and we have more freedom than ever to interpret the trends our way. 

As far as colours go, remember that shades that flatter your complexion and make you happy never date and are always in style. Pastels are trending at the moment, but wear brights, muted tones, earth tones, jewel tones and neutrals if that’s more your thing. It’s all good.  

With a nod to the look for 2014 here is the list of must haves that work for all body types, lifestyles, budgets and ages. It’s a question of finding the version that works for you. 

  1. Fluid and Oversized Fits: If there is one way to make your look more current, it’s wearing your clothes a little looser all over, and I can’t stress this point enough. Fluid fits, which are a little more structured than oversized fits, are an easy fit to wear and extra forgiving. Oversized fits are trickier but very doable when worn with just enough structure. And tailored fits are always in style, but do not confuse them with tighter body con fits. 
  2. Knitwear: Knitwear (or sweaters), are the top to pair with bottoms both as a layering piece or standalone item. As the weather warms up, think pullovers in cotton, silk and linen blends in both chunky and fine gauges. There is enormous knitwear variety this season and truly, the silhouette and fabric options seem endless. 
  3. Pastels: We’ve talked about pastels at great length. They are a lot more versatile than you might expect.  Choose your pastels and wear them with neutrals, brights, earth tones or with tones of the same colour. If a pastel clothing item is too much of a commitment, wear a pastel bag, belt, scarf or pair of shoes. 
  4. Boyfriend Jeans: They are the trending mainstream denim silhouette. Choose one in a slim-fit silhouette, or opt for relaxed skinnies if baggy and slouchy styles are not your thing. Size up in straight leg jeans to get the same effect if you’re particularly narrow on the hips and thighs. Cropped versions are great for Summer. Here’s a guide on how to pair boyfriend jeans with footwear
  5. Midi Skirts and Dresses: If you like to wear skirts and dresses, wear them at midi length. Midis can just cover the knee, cover part of the calf, or cover the entire calf. They can be pencil, flared, high-low, trumpet or avant-garde in silhouette. Skirts with lots of movement look particularly fresh. 
  6. Non-Black Moto Jackets: The moto jacket is a classic that can be paired with just about anything these days. Remember that motos are totally work appropriate if you choose a more refined style. And think beyond leather and beyond black. Think knits, Spring tweeds, twills, quilted cottons, pleather and mixed media fabrications. 
  7. Cropped Pants: This is one of the biggest trends of the season – AGAIN. Here are two ways to wear cropped ankle pants in flattering ways
  8. Wide Pant Legs: There is life beyond skinny and straight leg silhouettes. Wear jeans and trousers that are tailored on the thigh but flare out from the knee down, like bootcuts and bell bottoms. Wear trousers and jeans that are wider on the thighs but taper back at the hem, like silky track pants, harem pants and boyfriend jeans. Or wear trousers that are loose and wide from thigh to hem. 
  9. On Trend Footwear: Pairing new style footwear with items that are several seasons old is an effective way of refreshing their look. Pointy toes, which includes almond toes, in both heeled and flat styles are top of the list. But there are plenty of options if pointy toes aren’t your thing. On trend Spring and Summer footwear styles include loafers, d’Orsays, slipper flats, flat oxfords, slip-on sneakers, booties, shooties, cut-out booties, peep-toe booties, ankle strap pumps, and high-vamped sandals. 
  10. White: Lighten, brighten and soften your outfits by incorporating wardrobe items in all shades of white into your outfits. Think white jeans, cropped pants, skirts, dresses, tops, knitwear, jackets, footwear, bags, belts and sunglasses in shades of white. 
  11. Dark Blue: Dark blue, from light navy to deep ink, is a softer alternative to black, and looks great paired with black and shades of white. I’ll go so far as to say that ink blue is the new black, and for some, a better black. Modern and refreshing. 
  12. Cropped Boxy Jacket: A roomy moto jacket is one way of interpreting this trend, but so are extra short pea coats, Chanel-esque jackets, trapeze jackets, roomy tuxedo jackets and bomber jackets. 
  13. Clutches, Bowling Bags or Satchels: Choose one of these styles and you’ve instantly refreshed your look for the season. 
  14. Wild Card: Add to your wardrobe an item that is atypical for your style persona, but that speaks to you in some way. Just for fun. 

Further trends that might tickle your fancy include mules, garments with sheer panels, Birkenstocks, shift blouses, overalls, jumpsuits, Spring tweed, crop tops, sporty luxe (like upscale sweatshirts and haute baseball caps), tuxedo striping, new short sleeve styles, round shoulders, pattern mixing, upscale backpacks, bucket bags, short shorts, mixed media, utility jackets, Spring coats, culottes, slouchy trousers, patterned pants, florals, neon, fit-and-flare dresses, avant-garde pieces, sleeveless jackets (gilets), two-piece dresses and front vented pencil skirts. 

If you’re concerned about how to create flattering proportions for your shape and height, refer back to the updated inverted triangle, apple, pear, rectangle and hourglass body type posts.

How does the list look? Which trends and items resonate the most, and how are you going to update your wardrobe for Spring and Summer?

Vintage Leather Moto JacketRachel Zoe Blouse & Flare Leg Jeans

KUT from the Kloth Catherine Boyfriend Jeans

Velvet by Graham & Spencer BlazerVince Vest & JumpsuitMSGM Lace Top & Pleated SkirtLafayette 148 New York Toppe -and Dress

Great Jeans at Ann Taylor Loft

I stopped taking clients to the Loft for a while because I was disappointed with their quality. But each retailer has a chance to redeem themselves at the start of a fashion season with a brand new collection, so I’m always hopeful that the retailers who are in my bad books surprise me. And they do. I went back to the Loft with clients last week and was particularly impressed with their excellent assortment of jeans. They have sizes 00 to 18 covered in both Modern and Curvy fits across petite, regular, and tall. These sizes are available in on trend styles across white and shades of blue denim. Sizes run true to size and not large like they did a few years ago. 

Curvy fits work well for those with a relatively small waist and fuller bottom, hips and thighs. There is extra room on the thighs, and the waistband sits higher on the waist. If your waistbands usually gape at the back, try the curvy fit. Modern fits are straighter, sit lower on the waist, and work on body types where there is less of a curve from waist to thigh. 

So far, these are my favourite styles:

  • Modern Skinny Ankle Zip Jeans: These looked incredible on my tall size 12 client, who stuck to wearing them shorter in a regular length. The zippers on the ankle bring back fun ‘80s flashbacks. The tapered hem fit makes the length, whether it’s shorter or longer, very forgiving. The same style is available in a darker wash, white and a curvy fit
  • Modern Cropped Jeans: These are excellent when rolled a little shorter. They also come in dark blue, and in curvy fits
  • Relaxed Skinny Jeans: They fit like slim-fit boyfriend jeans. Unfortunately they only go up to a size 32, but are available in two washes and across petites and talls. Read the rave reviews. 

Browse through all the jeans because there are bootcuts, skinnies, straight legs and boyfriend styles across most of the fits and sizes.

Loft Modern Skinny Ankle Zip Jeans in Garden Blue WashLoft Modern Cropped Jeans in WhiteLoft Relaxed Skinny Jeans in Supreme Blue Wash

Footwear Trend: Mules

Mules are high-vamped slip-on shoes with an open back that exposes the heel. Mules do not have ankle straps so there is nothing securing your foot to the shoe other than the grip of your feet. Mules were one of the footwear trends back in the ‘90s, along with platform sneakers, loafers with chunky treads, and combat boots. 

Mules are fringe trending and come in an assortment of styles, as seen below. Most are heeled, but some are flat. Both round and pointy toes are represented. Some styles peep at the toe. Heel shapes can be stiletto, chunky or wedged. Most mules in the ‘90s were black, and that also seems to be the dominant colour this time round. 

The advantage of the mule is the ease with which it can be slipped on. Fast, no-fuss and breezy. The downside is that it can slip off as you stride, unless it’s a snug fit and your feet can comfortably grip the shoe. They are particularly suited to high volume feet because filling out the shoe is a prerequisite for keeping the style securely on your feet. If they’re peep toed, your toes should stay on the soles of the shoe, and not venture beyond the edge of the toe box.

I prefer closed toe mules, either heeled or flat. I like peep-toe styles when the peeping part is small so that the shoe covers most of the toe. Although I don’t mind long toe exposure in thong sandals, I don’t like the look of it with these high vamped mule sandals.

I like mules best when they are worn with jeans or trousers of the same or a similar colour, thereby creating a low contrast between the two items. I like it a little less when there is a high contrast between the mules and the bottoms, but I am not opposed to the combination.

I wore black mules back in the ‘90s because they were all the rage. They barely stayed on my low volume feet, and made a hectic clacking noise as I walked. I’m not in love with mules, so I probably won’t be wearing them this time round. I can see them working well for some of my clients though, and some are sporting the trend already. Closed toe suede mules are extra comfortable, so I’ll be on the lookout for those styles above all others.  

Over to you. Will you be wearing mules?

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Leather MulesGIANVITO ROSSI Leather MulesOSCAR DE LA RENTA Spanish Mule Embellished Linen and Leather Slippers

Zara 5 Pocket Printed TrousersZara Ankle Cropped TrousersZara Biker TrousersZara Super Skinny Trousers

J Brand Jake Slim Boyfriend JeansJoe's Jeans Straight Leg Jeans

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Fashion News Roundup: Week 12, 2014

Ann Demeulemeester’s first book, H&M’s eco-friendly collection, Zappos testing a new shopping service, and more style-related news from around the globe.

Fun Fashion Fact

Did you know that Vivienne Westwood loves 18th-century paintings? French artists Watteau, Fragonard and Boucher are particularly inspiring to her because “all three say so much of that age”. The designer told The Guardian: “To look at a painting is to enter a world. I love that 18th-century version of the pagan world. It’s a delight. The only place to find ideas is by looking at what people did in the past. It’s the way you can be original. Nothing comes from a vacuum; it is impossible to be creative unless you have a link with the past and tradition.”

Ensemble: Knit Blazer with Casual Pants

This ensemble was inspired by an outfit Lupita Nyong’o wore for air travel. It’s casual, easy to pull together, and one my Mom-on-the-go clients in particular will enjoy sporting for Spring. It’s also a practical outfit to wear for car and plane travel. Simple, structured, comfortable and relaxed. 

The part that makes the outfit comfortable is the knitted fabric of the blazer, which is soft and stretchy. Knitted blazers are especially good for broad shoulders and/or a full bust because they give those areas of the body a little more room. Layering a soft tee under the jacket makes the outfit even more cozy. 

Choose any colour palette and feel free to add patterns. Here are the components: 

Bottoms: Think jeans in any style and colour that tickles your fancy. Boyfriends, straight legs, skinnies, bootcuts or flares are all good. Leather or pleather leggings are another option, as are knitted Ponte pants. A denim skirt could be cute too. 

Top: Think solid big tees in a fluid fit, or throw in a fun graphic tee. A form fitting tee is fine too. The extra length of the big tee is ideal worn untucked over leggings. Or partially tuck the front with jeans. I’ve chosen black and white tees because they are the most common, but any colour is fab, as long as it works with the knit blazer. 

Knit Blazer: Knit blazers can be solid or patterned. Their structure provides ample waist definition over a big tee. Some knit blazers have fun lining, like the citron lining on the grey Gap blazer below, which can be turned up on the collar and sleeves. Leave the jacket open for maximum comfort. 

If knit blazers aren’t your thing, substitute a woven blazer in an all-season wool, cotton or linen blend. 

Footwear: Add on trend footwear to make the outfit look current. I’ve chosen booties, slip-on sneakers and cut-out oxfords, but there are many options. Think slipper flats, loafers, d’Orsays, pointy toe wedges, peep-toe booties, or casual caged sandals. Make sure the footwear works with the bottoms. 

Accessories: Finish off the outfit with a tote, cross body, mini backpack, bucket bag or bowling bag. Feel free to add a scarf or belt. Add jewellery, eyewear and watch as desired. 

I bet some of you will be able to shop your closets to put together this look. Hope to see your renditions in the forum.

Knit Blazer with Casual Pants