A Modern Approach to Fit: Four Silhouettes

There used to be only one way to think about good fit, but thankfully those days have past. I believe a modern approach to fit has two important components. First, there are four different silhouettes to choose from and the fit of a garment should be assessed in the context of one of these silhouettes. Second, designers and retailers do not dictate fit. YOU have the power to decide your desired fit for any garment. 

It’s liberating and more interesting to have multiple fit options, but it also makes things more complicated. That’s why it’s important to understand the differences between the four fit silhouettes. They form a continuum with structured fits on one end and unstructured fits on the other. Here they are:

1. Body-Con Fit

This is a very tight and structured fit. Some would say the fit is too tight, but it IS an acceptable choice if that’s what you’re after. It’s usually achieved with stretchy knitted garments like leggings and Ponte pants, or knitted pencil skirts, knitted sheath dresses, bandage dresses and skirts, and very tight knit tops. Woven jeggings and skinnies with lots of stretch can also be body con. 

2. Tailored Fit

A tailored fit is the structured regular standard. Clothing closely follows the contour of the body but the result is not as tight as body-con. Garments are suppressed to fit through tailoring techniques like darts and princess lines instead of relying on the stretch of the fabric to mould the piece to the body. Any item of clothing can be made in a tailored fit. The tailored silhouette is always in style. 

3. Fluid Fit

A fluid fit is looser than tailored but not as roomy as oversized. Garments don’t fit as closely to the body as they do with a tailored fit, and as a result are moderately baggy all over. In other words, they are not very structured.

Think fluid knitted tops and knitwear. Relaxed skinnies, streamlined boyfriend jeans, boyfriend shirts and blazers, streamlined cocoon coats and dresses, shift dresses, trapeze tops and jackets with gentle swings, and gentle boxy tops. 

4. Oversized Fit

This fit is very roomy and unstructured. Garments look intentionally big and boxy, and are in some cases quite overwhelming. The garments stand far away from the body and you can’t see the shape of your figure underneath. Lots of volume and lots of fabric.

Think very baggy boyfriend jeans and slouchy trousers, huge tops and cropped tops, dramatically large jackets and cocoon coats, kimonos without belts, severe sack dresses, hectic cocoon dresses and billowing blouses and skirts. And extra wide leg trousers and jeans at any length. 

There is room for all four fits in your wardrobe depending on the style of the item and the vibe of the outfit. Most people prefer a larger assortment of tailored and fluid fits with fewer body-con and oversized fits thrown into the mix. That sums up my own wardrobe too. 

Once you’ve got your head around the different fits, you can manipulate the size of clothing pieces so that they fit how you want them to. I’ve bought items smaller, larger, longer and shorter than how the designer or retailer intended them to fit because that was the way that I liked the item best. 

The fact that there is no longer one way to fit a garment does add complexity, but it’s also quite empowering. You probably have all the fits represented in your wardrobe already, and you’re also probably manipulating the size of items to adjust their intended fit without even knowing it. Garment fit has moved into this direction organically, and at some level it’s become quite intuitive for the wearer. Just another way that you are the master of your clothing, and not the other way round.

Formula: Tunic, Skinnies, Short Topper & Heels

This new-to-her outfit formula really resonated with one of my clients at an outfit creation session last week. It combines long over lean with a short topper and pretty footwear. Here is the formula:

Interesting Tunic + Skinnies + Short Topper + Heels

My client’s woven and knitted tunics have interesting asymmetrical detailing and drape like a dream. The one I’m using here is the layered asymmetric tunic from White House Black Market that looks even better in motion. The sleek bottoms, either skinny jeans or Lyssé leggings, offset the volume of the soft, flowing tunic. The footwear was either heeled booties or pumps. The heels offset the length of the tunic at my client’s almost petite height, while the narrow hem of the skinnies showcased the style of the shoe. The toppers were short, faux leather jackets, thereby maximizing the multiple layers of the outfit and the movement of the drapey tunic. 

Here are two renditions of the outfit formula that we put together. All the pieces are the EXACT items that we used from her closet apart from the jeans, black bag and black booties, which are very similar to the pieces owned by my client. 

Outfit 1

We used a column of ink blue and black in the first combination. A black camisole added warmth under the tunic. The extra drapey black faux leather wrap jacket added even more interesting layers and textures to the outfit. My client prefers refined, ladylike and dainty footwear, but you could add a chunky pair of shoes if that’s more to your taste.

We finished off the outfit with a clutch because she was going out that evening, but feel free to use any style of bag. It’s Winter so my client needed her red coat to go over the top while she was outside. The cocoon shape of the coat is a brilliant style because it’s sufficiently roomy to layer over a multilayered outfit.

Outfit 2

As an alternative, we broke up the outer column of colour and added a contrasting topper and booties in taupe and cream. It dressed down the look a little, making it more appropriate for a less dressy setting. To my eye, the contrast pieces made the look a little more unexpected and fun.

We finished off the outfit with the same roomy red cocoon coat but with a more casual black “everyday” satchel.

These are merely two renditions of this extremely comfortable outfit formula that you can take into many different directions. For starters, you can wear straight leg, bootcut or cropped denim jeans with the tunics. You can also choose any colour palette, and there is no need to stick to a column of colour. Create tonal or high-contrast versions instead. The high-contrast versions might need a little more forethought if you’re concerned about a short leg line. Substitute the short jacket for a short cardigan. And last, you can wear flats, but be mindful about how that affects your leg line. Add jewellery, eyewear, scarf, headgear and watch as desired.

Finds At the Macy’s Sale

The Macy’s huge sale ends today. Here are some of the items that caught my eye when I was in store on Friday. Some worked well on my clients. In many instances the items are available in petite, regular and plus, and in several colours. Thank you Macy’s, for giving us very deep size curves. 

You can also see the items alongside my descriptions on the collection page.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Fashion News Roundup: January 2016

André Courrèges and David Bowie pass away, Grace Coddington shifting roles at Vogue, the world’s most sustainable corporations, and other news from the style trenches this month.

Fun Fashion Fact

French industry legend André Courrèges is credited as the inventor of the miniskirt (together with Mary Quant) and famous for his go-go boots. But did you know he was also one of the first designers to popularize pants for women and make them a high-fashion item, appropriate for formal and business attire.

Ensemble: Stripes, Pearls, Moto & Fringe

Stripes InspirationThis ensemble was inspired by an outfit I saw on Pinterest. Since I’m wearing my pearls again, I’m especially interested in this easy-to-pull-together combination. In fact, I’m sure I’ve worn a version of it before. It combines modern classics with trendier pieces. In fact, you’ll probably be able to shop your closet for most of the components. 

The components of the ensemble:

Jeans: Choose any style of jeans in black, blue or grey denim. The wearer in the photo is wearing boyfriend jeans, but feel free to wear skinnies, cropped straight legs, culottes, flares, boot cuts, clamdiggers, shorts or straight legs. Or wear a denim skirt if that’s more your style 

Striped Top: Choose a T-shirt or pullover in black, navy or grey and white stripes. Of course, you can choose any colour in the stripes, but the classic combination in neutrals does look sharp. A white or cream stripe also picks up the colour of white pearls. That said, a grey striped top picks up the colour of grey pearls. 

Moto Jacket: Choose a black, grey, ink or white moto jacket. A denim jacket in black or white is also fab. If you’re not into moto jackets, choose any style of black, grey or white topper that works with the outfit. Feel free to layer a coat over the entire outfit if it’s cold.  

Pearls: Make a statement with baubles! Add a pearl necklace in a chunky style because pearls look more playful and trendy when they are oversized or clustered. If chunky pearls aren’t your cup of tea, stick to a classic strand with small beads. Or choose pearl earrings or a pearl bracelet if necklaces aren’t your thing. 

Footwear: Add any style of fashionable sneaker, boot, pump, loafer, flatform or platform that works with the outfit. Keep the colour black, white, cream, metallic or red. 

Handbag: A red handbag with fringe creates a fun juxtaposition, but you can choose any red or  fringed bag. And if that doesn’t work, choose a bag that completes the outfit your way. Add extra jewellery, eyewear, headgear, hosiery and watch as desired. 

stripes-denim@2x

I can put the look together right away with what’s in my wardrobe, and here are the exact pieces.  There might be a denim skirt in the mix soon too.