In my trend forecast for Spring and Summer 2015 I mentioned that defining the waist is making as much of a fashion statement as surrendering the waist with fluid and oversized fits. This does not mean that we are back to body con silhouettes. It is more about belting roomy silhouettes at the natural waist, or tucking fluid pieces into bottoms with structured waistlines. That way there is ample movement in the outfit, which is not the case in body con clothing.
I’ve been pinning directional and trending outfits across all the shows for Spring 2015. Lets take a peek at how the waist was defined on the runways:
- High-waisted sash belt over cropped pants with layering tee and boxy cropped jacket.
- Skinny belt over long, drapey and lightweight layers.
- Double waist belt over a double shirtdress.
- Waist belt and bow over ruffles.
- Paperbag pleated trousers with soft tucked shell, ‘80s style.
- Crisp tailored belted jacket over romantic ruffles.
- Another crisp tailored belted jacket over ankle pants.
- Fluid top tucked into a maxi A-line skirt.
- Soft fit-and-flare dress.
- Soft blouse tucked into a structured pencil skirt.
- Dramatic fluid shirt tucked into an equally dramatic flared midi with skinny belt and strappy ballet flats. I want this outfit.
- Tucked plaid shirt tucked into a flared midi with earthy waist belt.
- Tonal High-Waisted Structure.
- High-waisted wide legs with roomy shell top.
- Ruffles tucked into ruffles.
- Peplum blazer worn over a fluid sweater with slouchy capris and sneakers.
- Belted colour blocked midi dress.
- Dramatic sash over multiple avant-garde layers.
- Soft blouse with a self fabric belt.
- Another soft shirtdress.
- High-waisted space age fabness.
- Conventionally flattering skirt suit with webbing belt.
- Broad gold waist belt with ruffles, shorts and flat oxfords.
- Skirt over pants with tucked blouse and tuxedo jacket.
The clothing isn’t tight. For the most part there is a fantastic sense of ease and movement in the silhouettes. This is true on both the top and the bottom parts of the outfits despite the waist definition. Waist structure is achieved by silhouettes that are tailored on the hips and high on the waist when they aren’t belted. The combinations look fresh and complement the slouchy trend.
I love the crisp belted jacket styles and will try those on when they hit retail. They might add a nice change of silhouette to my jacket capsule. But they aren’t without their drawbacks. First, they look best belted, which makes the look less versatile and more constricting. I’m used to keeping my jackets open so I’d need to get my head around that way of styling again. Second, they can bunch below the waist when you sit down, so you need a style that’s shorter or cut-away at the hem.
I love shirtdresses and would wear a soft belted version in a heartbeat. But belting lots of layers at the waist is uncomfortable, a little bulky, and fussy because the layers shift around. I do like the idea of tucking fluid pieces into high-waisted trousers because I’m an ‘80s gal at heart. I also love wearing belted low rises and will enjoy the variety. Like I mentioned earlier this week, I love the look of fashionable slouch, but prefer a mixture of refined tailoring along with it.
I’m not sure how my clients will react to belting multiple layers or belted jackets. But I have a hunch that soft belted shirtdresses and tucking fluid blouses into structured bottoms will go down well. High-waisted bottoms can be very girdling and comfortable, and smooth out the midsection. Tucking into them however, shortens an already short waist, which gives gals with longer torsos a little more wiggle room.
Over to you. What’s your take on the “new” defined waist?