Karen Kane’s Sample Room

This was my absolute favourite part of Karen Kane Headquarters! My heart raced as I stepped into the sample production room and saw countless boxes of trims, thread, and rolls of fabric, and long racks of patterns and garment prototypes. It took me straight back to my own fashion design days at age 23, when I worked as a junior designer for a children’s wear company (although that sample room was much, much smaller and less elaborate).

This is NOT the factory floor where items are mass produced, but merely the sample room where design ideas are taken from drawing to tangible garment. Karen Kane is a large operation, manufacturing five labels for many different retailers, so their sample room alone looks like an assembly line. Here, concepts are tested, fits are perfected, and brand new ideas are churned out daily. The room is a melting point of creativity and the skill set represented is mind blowing.

I’m energized just thinking about it! Allow me to walk you through the room.

The sample room is filled with designers, pattern makers, quality controllers, fit specialists, fabric specialists, sample pattern cutters, sample pressers and sample machinists — all experts in in their specific area.

Back in the day, I drafted pattens by hand, an awfully finicky process. These days they are constructed by computer programs and sophisticated pattern making machines and the details are finished off by hand.

Pattern pieces and design prototypes are repeatedly fitted both onto mannequins and fit models (who come in two mornings a week). The company designed their own mannequins, which range from regular to plus sizes.

These gentlemen are sample cutters. Once the patterns are complete, they lay them out onto the desired fabric and cut out the pieces required to complete a style.

The fabric pieces are handed down to the sample machinists who complete all sewing operations across a variety of sewing machines. Just look at the cardboard pattern pieces in the background! There are rails of them, all immaculately documented and administrated, each colour representing a different Karen Kane label.

Factory machinists are very skilled at their particular sewing operation, but sample machinists like this lovely lady, have to be skilled at ALL sewing operations because they sew a garment from start to finish.

There is a surprisingly large amount of pressing involved during both sample and garment production. The more effectively a garment is pressed while it’s being made, the easier it is to sew AND the neater the construction of the finished product.

Here are Karen and I looking at a completed prototype, a polka dot blouse, that caught my eye amidst the endless rolls of sample fabric. How exciting! I could visualize how it was first conceptualized from a sketch, all the way down the sample line and onto this rail.

It is a fulltime, bustling business to keep up with both the creation of prototype and final samples for seasonal collections, hence the impressive sample room. Karen spends a lot of time in the room, overseeing the process and making sure that the right samples are produced every day. The company presents their monthly collections to fashion buyers “at market” with the help of account execs and sales reps all over the US. There are five markets a year, two a retail season plus resort wear. The work that goes into prepping for these markets is quite something, don’t you think?

I asked Karen what part of her job was her favourite, to which she replied: “Seeing something new come down the line each day”. After experiencing the buzz in this sample room, I totally understand why that’s the case.

This is the second in a series of posts sponsored by Karen Kane:

  1. Design at Karen Kane
  2. Karen Kane’s Sample Room (this post)
  3. Clothing Production at Karen Kane
  4. Karen Kane’s Trim and Dispatch Departments
  5. Karen Kane the Family Business

For more information you can follow @Karen_Kane on Twitter or like their page on Facebook.

Competition: Pick the Featured Karen Kane Outfit

YLF readers will be picking one of the outfits that is featured on the front page of the new Karen Kane online store when it launches on July 1. Michael has set up the competition on Facebook, and you can go to this page to pick any 3 of the 5 outfits shown below. The outfit that gets the most votes overall will become the YLF pick.

If you participate, you stand the chance of winning a $200 gift voucher that you can use in the new store.

Good luck!

(Click a picture to see a close-up)

Design at Karen Kane Clothing

This is the first in a series of sponsored posts where we look behind the scenes at American clothing company, Karen Kane.

Last week Greg and I spent a day at Karen Kane Headquarters in Vernon, California, touring their design rooms, factory floors, despatch area and all the satellite sections that make the operation flow and function (go backstage to find out how this all came about).

Karen Kane is a family based business with Karen herself as head of design. Husband Lonnie is in charge of production and finance, and eldest son Michael is director of marketing. Michael also has the challenging task of launching the company’s online store in July.

Karen Kane custom built their premises 18 years ago and they are HUGE (150,000 square feet). They produce five labels (Karen Kane, Karen Kane Women’s, Karen by Karen Kane, Fifteen Twenty, and Red 23). Karen herself designs for all of them, together with her lead designer Myung, who has been working with Karen for twenty years.

Greg and I were greeted warmly by Karen and Michael at reception. Karen was casual yet uber chic in skinny jeans, black silky blouse (her own design), wedged sandals and gorgeous chunky silver jewelry. Michael looked hip and cool in tapered grey jeans, slim-fit button down shirt and industrial boots. Right from the outset I knew that this was going to be a fabulous day.

We headed directly to a conference room that contained the final samples and info sheets for the next six months of delivery. Michael had laid out beautiful design illustrations and photos of fashion shoots on the conference room table. Karen Kane actually shoots the photos for their look books in this room. I was itching to look through the rails of final samples, but restrained myself until later.

As I expected, my buying days came flooding back as soon as I walked into the Karen Kane building, and before long my head was exploding with questions. Over the next few hours Karen would answer every one of them with with great insight, humble grace, infinite patience, and a confident dignity that one rarely sees in the Rag Trade. Without question, Karen is a leader at her game.

We started in the “Work Room”, which is where Karen’s design process starts. It is filled with trims, swatches of fabrics, drawings, sketches, photographs, outfits for modeling shoots, and all sorts of other things that fuel those creative juices. Karen has other designers that create final computer aided sketches of clothing and outfits, but for Karen, it’s still about a small sketchpad and an old fashioned pencil. She sketches her ideas and sticks them on big white boards with swatches. After mulling over her ideas and tweaking the sketches, she’ll have the designs sampled up in the Sample Room. Once that happens, the design receives an official style number in red ink.

Karen sketches up many, many designs, but only the best make it onto her big white work boards. The designs that don’t make the cut are not discarded, but stuck to the edge of a large table just in case she needs to return to them later. They are thrown away at the end of a retail season.

Next we went to Karen’s office, passing several important support functions on the way. In one room, two fabulous ladies were ticketing and assembling the final samples for Karen Kane’s nationwide merchandising staff. We passed the fabric ordering room, where it’s a full time job to order the right fabric for garment production (the lovely lady below surrounded by fabric swatches). We also passed the Human Resources, Customer Service and Accounting Departments, and everyone was as friendly as can be. It was great to see an overview of the support functions that make it all happen, and a reminder that the clothing manufacturing business has millions of moving parts.

Karen doesn’t spend too much time in her own office (that’s beautiful Karen sitting at her desk), because she spends most of it in the Work Room, Sample Room and in other parts of the factory overseeing the design process and attending to the hundreds of queries that come up in a day. Michael told us that it’s not uncommon to see a queue of 20 people waiting to speak to Karen at any point in the building.

Clothing designers tend to work around 9 months in advance of products hitting the store shelves and Karen is currently designing for Spring 2012 (Spring 2012 Fashion Week is in early September). She collects fabric swatches and ideas and puts them into separate drawers that are each associated with a particular month of delivery. And yes, there is a separate room and additional staff required just to manage the process of sample fabrication and trim selection because Karen Kane designs and manufactures five labels.

While Karen’s design focus is one season, the company actually juggles three seasons at once. They are currently designing for Spring 2012, producing Fall 2011 and managing the sales for Spring & Summer 2011. Although I loved hearing about the beginning of the design process in the Work Room and seeing all the support funcitons, my favourite part of the day was what came next: the Sample Room. We’ll cover that later today, so stay tuned.

This is the first in a series of posts sponsored by Karen Kane:

  1. Design at Karen Kane (this post)
  2. Karen Kane’s Sample Room
  3. Clothing Production at Karen Kane
  4. Karen Kane’s Trim and Dispatch Departments
  5. Karen Kane the Family Business

For more information you can follow @Karen_Kane on Twitter or like their page on Facebook.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

Read More

Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Survey Results: YLF and Facebook

Thank you very much for participating in our recent survey on YLF and Facebook integration. There were more than 200 responses and we thought we’d share the results.

Our main takeaways are that half of you would at least consider sharing some of your YLF activity on Facebook, but that the other half want to keep their YLF and Facebook worlds completely separate. So while some Facebook features might be well received, they would have to be optional.

Another thing that came through was the concern that some of YLF would “move” to Facebook. Well, we want to put your mind at rest that nothing we do would diminish the amount of content we put here on youlookfab.com. Any use of Facebook would be to amplify, augment or share what is already here on YLF.

Here are the detailed results.

Which of these statements best describes your participation on YLF?

How often do you use Facebook on average?

If you do use Facebook, how would you like YouLookFab and Facebook to work together?

More than 30 people also elaborated on their answers or provided ideas using the optional text field at the end of the survey. This input was very interesting, full of wonderful ideas and great insights. Some of the concerns that were expressed will really help us to make the right decisions. We will be looking at it closely if and when we work on anything related to Facebook.

Smart Casual for Women

After 5 years of posting daily content on YLF, some of my early entries on “smart casual dressing” are still amongst the most popular. So I thought it was time for an update. At its simplest, smart casual means dressing up jeans. It’s dressier than casual, but not quite as formal as business casual because the denim dresses down the outfit. The beauty of smart casual is that in today’s age of casualization, it will take you just about anywhere.

Smart Casual is versatile, easy and flop proof, and it’s completely formula driven:

Denim + dressy top (or dress, or skirt) + dressy shoes + dressy accessories

ANYONE can cook up a killer smart casual outfit given the right ingredients.

  • Denim: Jeans are the obvious choice in any colour and silhouette. Blue, black, grey, white and cream jeans are no brainers, but with coloured denim being big this season, that can work too. Skinny, straight leg, bootcut, trouser and wide leg jeans are all fabulous. If you don’t like to wear jeans, never fear! Substitute jeans for a denim skirt, or layer a denim jacket over a dressy dress or dressy skirt and top combination. For the more fashion forward and daring, there are more fringe denim bottom choices like denim shorts shorts, bermudas and cropped denim pant styles that can absolutely be dressed up to look smart casual. Take your pick.
  • Top: Think dressier blouses, button down shirts, knitwear and knit tops instead of T-shirts. Do not be afraid to add sparkle, glitz and super formal tops to jeans or a denim skirt. Do not be afraid of adding a denim jacket to a sparkly dress. If you’re matching a skirt or dress ensemble with a denim jacket, make sure that the pieces are smarter than casual.
  • Jacket: This is an optional but effective extra for smart casual outfits with jeans and denim skirts. The magical powers of a jacket can take an outfit from drab to fab. For smart casual, you’re after a dressier jacket. It needn’t be super tailored, but a casual jacket, although fab with denim, is not smart casual unless the rest of your outfit is very dressy. Jackets can mean anything from blazers and trapeze silhouettes, to boyfriend cuts, cropped styles, leather looks, trench coats and wool coats. T-shirts are generally not part of this dress code, but layer a fabulous jacket over a good quality tee and you’ve made it work.
  • Dressy Shoes: Footwear goes a long way to finishing off any outfit and for smart casual, its no different. Think dressy shoes, either flat or heeled. Sandals, pumps, oxfords, boots, booties, ballet flats, mary janes – any shoe at all as long as it’s not a casual shoe.
  • Dressy accessories: A dressier handbag completes the look. Jewelry is not a must, and these days I am happy to leave the house with only watch, wedding ring, specs and handbag. But adding a statement piece of jewelry will further dress up your outfit. Necklaces are a great option as are dressier scarves. Earrings, rings, brooches and bracelets are also fab. If you’re a belt gal, add a dressy belt.

Because darker denim is definitely dressier than faded denim, I used to suggest sticking to darker denim washes for smart casual. But when the other components are dressy, I think that faded denim can be a cool and unexpected in a smart casual ensemble. It’s a little tricky to get right though so if you are at all in doubt, stick to darker denim washes.

I spend half my life is smart casual attire because it’s my favourite dress code, and because denim is acceptable in my line of work. So it shouldn’t be surprising that many of the outfits I have posted on YLF are smart casual. Below are some of my favourites.