Judge the Outfit, Not the Person

One consequence of being in my profession is that I’m always paying attention to what people are wearing. Whether I’m shopping in stores, running errands, walking down the street, waiting in line at the airport, enjoying a dinner party or arriving at yoga, I notice the outfits worn by the people around me. 

And, yes, I evaluate the outfits I see. It isn’t a conscious effort, but I find myself making mental notes about things that I’d like to try myself, replicate with one of my clients, or share here on YLF. 

Of course, my thoughts aren’t always positive. Sometimes I don’t like what I see, and I find myself thinking about what it is that isn’t working in the fit of an individual item, or in the combination of an ensemble. Or I might question the appropriateness of the outfit for the setting.

But even as I’m evaluating the outfits around me, I’m very conscious of two things. First, fashion and style are very subjective. Sure, there is a general consensus on what’s in and what’s out at any given time, but even so, my opinion is just that: an opinion. My clients and longtime readers of YLF might value that opinion, but there are also people who don’t. Mine is only one way of viewing the world.

And second, while I evaluate the outfit, I never judge the wearer. It is so easy to fall into the trap of jumping to conclusions about the reasons behind an outfit that seems inappropriate, unfashionable or unflattering, but I don’t go there. I don’t know the person. I don’t  know their circumstances, and I don’t know what motivates them to dress the way they do. My private thoughts on their outfit have nothing to do with what they are like as a person.

I’m sure most of us have caught ourselves making snap judgements about people based on what they were wearing. A while back I found myself doing that and really wanted to get out of the habit. So these days I have a little mental trick to keep things focused on the outfit and not the wearer. When I’m evaluating an outfit, I imagine that I’m seeing it on a mannequin. That way I am free to formulate an opinion about the aesthetics without making unfair and inaccurate judgements about the wearer.

Hong Kong on the Streets

Hong Kong on the Streets

Observing street style: Tokyo and Yokohama in 2012.

Five Interesting Neutral Sweaters

Here’s a selection of pullovers that aren’t basic. They are neutral, and for the most part fluid or oversized. All are non-scratch. Be sure to look through all the colour options. 

  • Club Monaco Franny Sweater: Fantastic asymmetrical cut and textured knit. I love the heavy weight of the drape and the sheen on the yarn. A little avant-garde and very comfy. 
  • Club Monaco Meryl Sweater: Awfully pretty with its sheer insets, and swingy high-low hemline. Romantic and modern. Runs small and tight under and on the arms so you might need to size up.
  • J.Crew Stripe Sleeve Merino Sweater: Colour blocked lilac with graphic black and white. Nice sporty piece in a fairly fluid fit.
  • Club Monaco Claudia Striped Sweater: Oversized and visually widening all over, especially from the side, so consider yourself warned. The photo makes the style look more streamlined than it is so you might need to size down.The genius lies in the tailored short sleeves that provide just enough structure. On trend and a silhouette that is all over Fall 2014 fashion runways right now. I loved this top, but the neckline wasn’t high enough for my liking so it didn’t follow me home.
  • Club Monaco Kimberly Top: Not technically a sweater but I’m including it anyway. I don’t wear knitted tops, but if this was in a colour other than grey or black, it may have been the top that followed me home. It’s modern ‘80s fabness all the way. Flattering oversized fit in front, and interesting low back detailing. A fun, alluring and unique piece. 

Right now knitwear is the fashionable choice of top to wear with any bottom. We’ll continue to see knitwear offered throughout the year in countless styles, fabrications and colours. Best top trend ever. 

Neutral Sweaters

12 Tips for Feeling Fab in White Bottoms

Black jeans or trousers are visually slimming. They camouflage lumps and bumps and extend your long lean line when paired with dark footwear. Conversely, white jeans and trousers tend to have a widening effect and aren’t quite as forgiving with lumps and bumps. Does this mean you should ban white bottoms from your wardrobe?

My answer to that question is an emphatic “no!” You do NOT need to be tall, thin, long in the leg, or slim to wear white bottoms. Almost all of my clients, who span a size range of 00P to 22, wear white bottoms. This includes all body types and covers a wide range of ages.

As always, it’s how you wear the item that counts. If you’re battling with the concept of light coloured bottoms, here are twelve tips that might help you to feel fab when wearing them. 

  1. Choose denim or thick fabrications: They provide more structure and coverage than thinner fabrications thereby streamlining the silhouette and camouflaging lumps and bumps. 
  2. Choose wide silhouettes in thin fabrications: If lightweight fabrics are essential to combat the heat, choose them in relaxed styles, like wide leg linen pants, or cotton harem pants. That way the fabric stands away from the body and does not cling or look transparent.
  3. Wear white boyfriend jeans: Here we have a looser silhouette and a thicker fabrication, providing coverage, structure, and effective camouflage for wobbly bits. 
  4. Size Up: White bottoms can be revealing, so sizing up to create a looser fit on a structured style is a good idea. 
  5. Pay attention to pocket detailing: It’s annoying when the pocket linings of white bottoms shine through. One option is to choose a style without side entry pockets. Failing that, pocket linings can be cut out by a competent tailor. Pocket linings are usually less visible on thicker fabrications like denim, and on wider, looser styles. 
  6. Wear Tunics: A little extra coverage on top can make all the difference. Wear longer tops if you’re self conscious about exposing your hip and thigh area in white bottoms. 
  7. Create slouch by partially tucking roomier tops: Create a little blousoned slouch with a fluid or oversized top by semi or faux tucking into white jeans or trousers. The volume of the larger top visually narrows the bottom, while the partial tuck creates the required structure. 
  8. Create a white column of colourColumns of colour are visually slimming and elongating. In this case it means wearing a white top with white bottoms under a topper, thereby creating a column of white.
  9. Wear heels to elongate the leg line: This is especially effective with wide hem bottoms and while sporting perfect pants lengths (no shorter than a quarter of an inch off the ground). It’s also great to wear heels with tapered leg silhouettes. 
  10. Further elongate the leg line with white footwear: Wearing white shoes with long white jeans and trousers is flattering because the shoe looks like an extension of the bottoms, thereby creating a visually longer leg line. Pointy toe flats are a great way to lengthen the leg line if heels aren’t your thing. 
  11. Wear flesh toned undies: White bottoms are usually more transparent than dark colours, which means that showcasing undies is a problem. Wear solid nude-for-you undies to prevent them from shining through. 
  12. Forget about looking your slimmest: Wear white bottoms because you love their crisp, bright and modern effect. There is more to making you feel happy in an outfit than looking your slimmest and tallest. 

You also have the option of sporting white dresses and skirts if jeans, pants and shorts aren’t your thing. Dresses are built-in columns of colour, and flowing white skirts are lovely with a fluid or structured top. 

White jeans are a wardrobe essential for my style, and I wear them year round. I also love wearing cream jeans, trousers, and an A-line skirt. Sure, I look slimmer in a pair of dark bottoms, but wearing white bottoms makes me happy, and that trumps it all.

Rachel Roy Top & Skinny JeansSplendid Sweater, Tee & Paige Denim Jeans

Vince Tunic Dress & Skinny Jeans

Chelsea28 Top and PantsLafayette 148 New York Topper, Sweater & Jeans

Chelsea28 Coat, Pullover& Pants

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

Read More

Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

Read More

Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

Read More

Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

Read More

Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Fashion News Roundup: Week 6, 2014

Orla Kiely teams up with Clarks, two more fashion collaborations, Pantone’s new Fashion Colour Report and more news from the world of style. 

Fun Fashion Fact

Marimekko’s trademark Unikko poppy pattern is celebrating its 50th birthday this year. Did you know that Marimekko is Finnish for “Mary’s little dress”?

Ensemble: Olive and Pink

This outfit formula is about mixing shades of olive with shades of pink. Olive can be light or dark, and is pretty earthy. I’ve also added chartreuse to the ensemble because to my mind, chartreuse is like a brighter and more sour version of olive. Think any shade of pink when mixing it with tones of olive. From the prettiest pale pink and blush, to mid-tones, shocking pink, neon and fuchsia. 

I kept black out of the formula and used shades of brown for neutrals. From chocolate and cognac, to taupe and tan. Combining shades of white as neutrals will also work. Of course, black footwear is an easy bookending substitution when you have black hair.

Here are the components. There’s a dressier outfit on the left and a more casual rendition on the right.

Bottoms: Think jeans, dressy trousers, cropped pants, casual pants, or a skirt in a shade of olive. By all means throw in camouflage print, a pinstripe, jacquard, subtle self-colour pattern, or false plain. 

Tops: Think knitwear, upscale sweatshirts, shirts, blouses, knitted tops, peplums, crop tops and tees, in any shade of pink. Make sure the top works with the bottoms you’ve selected. I like both bright and softer pinks with olive. Belts are optional. Wear one that matches the colour of the top, bottom, footwear or bag. 

Toppers: The style of topper depends on the outfit and climate. Blazers, motos, wool coats, trench coats, cropped jackets, cocoon styles, drapey styles, anything at all. 

There are many options for topper colour. Keep it pink to match the pink of the top. Wear a topper in olive (the olives in the outfit do not need to be the same.) Throw in a chartreuse topper because it’s a bright form of olive and complements the pink. Dark brown, tan and taupe toppers work too. Or choose a topper in a shade of white. 

Footwear: A shade of brown is an easy match, as is black to bookend black hair. Lighter neutrals like taupe, tan and white are pretty. And don’t forget the versatility of metallics. 

Accessories: Brown, taupe, tan and white bags are great, and feel free to match them to the colour of your shoes. Metallics are another option. A blush bag is fab if you’re wearing a lighter or darker shade of pink on top. An olive bag will work too. Throw in a scarf that picks up some of the colours of the outfit, or wear one that’s tonal with the top. Finish off the outfit with jewellery, watch, hat and eyewear as desired. 

Ensemble: Olive & Pink

Feel free to turn the formula upside down by sporting pink on the bottom and olive on top. 

We’re used to matching pink with grey, which is a classic combination. Why not sport pink with olive and grey, which is why I added the silver oxford into the ensemble. Of course, metallics are neutrals and gold will work too.