Layered ’90s Slip Dresses and Pinafores: Yay or Nay

The slip dress in all sorts of lengths and patterns is about as ‘90s as it gets, especially if you wear it with black combat boots or white sneakers. It’s a fitted sheath or roomier A-line silhouette with spaghetti straps. The waist can be defined or surrendered. It’s usually made of soft, breezy and dainty warm weather fabric. It can be bias-cut

The slip dress is worn on its own, or with a topper like a jacket, cardigan or vest. Or you can layer a tee or turtleneck underneath the dress for coverage, warmth and interest. The tee or T-neck layer is usually black or white, but you can choose any colour.

The pinafore is a ‘90s look that was borrowed from the ‘70s. My Winter school uniform in the ‘70s was a woolly grey pinafore worn over a white shirt with bobby socks and blazer to match. The pinafore is a dungaree in the form of a dress. The silhouettes are usually A-line. They’re almost always worn with a tee, turtleneck, blouse or shirt layered underneath.

This collection shows a range of slip dresses and pinafores with an underlayer.

I wore pinafores with T-necks in the ‘70s, and midi slip dresses with tees in the early ‘90s. I haven’t worn them since, although I’m open to it in 2019. I particularly like the ‘70s midi pinafore worn with a turtleneck and boots, and could do that for Autumn later in the year. I could do the Summery slip dress with a layer like a very fine gauge ribbed pullover since I don’t wear T-shirts. I’d layer something like Banana Republic’s Fitted Stretch Cotton Crew Neck Sweater under the dress because it looks dressier than a tee made of jersey knit:

I like the coverage and textural interest of the slip dress & tee combination, and its relaxed vibe. I like the ‘70s and dressier version of the pinafore with T-neck. I’m a solid Yay. And you?

Grace Hill Linen Slip Dress

Outfit Formula: Motos with Skirts & Dresses

When a moto jacket is shorter in length and fairly fitted, the proportions work particularly well with dresses and skirts because it adds structure and lengthens the leg line. Remember that moto jackets needn’t be leather, black, or trimmed with lots of hardware. They can be faux leather, Ponte, knitted, woven and lined, any neutral or non-neutral, and quite void of hardware.

These outfits showcase hard-edged black moto jackets with skirts and dresses. If that’s not your thing, substitute the look with YOUR type of moto.

1. Hard-Edged Pastel

I like how the black moto and flat combat boots toughen the soft and pretty pastel midi. Fabulous juxtaposition. The white tee and bag create a nice complement. The bookended black creates a pulled together and cohesive visual. The shorter length of the jacket lengthens the leg line, which makes the length of the midi flattering. Heeled boots or pumps can work, but it’s nice to see a flat option for those who don’t wear heels. Personally, I enjoy black worn with pastels, although it might not be your cup of tea. I like light blue and blush best with black. Feel free to add sheer black hosiery.

MADEWELL Ultimate Textured leather Biker Jacket

2. Hard-Edged Flounce

Combine a black tee with a flouncy skirt and top it off with a moto. There’s a lot of black in this outfit, which creates a cohesive statement, but feel free to create any colour palette. Finish off the look with a style of shoe that works with the proportions of the outfit. I like the sneakers, and the way they complement the body bag. The white accents add a crisp and soft touch.

IRO Ashville Leather Biker Jacket

3. Hard-Edged Ditsy

Combine a solid or patterned prairie dress or two-piece dress with a moto and tall sleek boots. Here, the tall boots are high-heeled, but they can be low-heeled or flat, as long as they’re tailored. Throw in a bag that works with the outfit.

PROENZA SCHOULER Cropped Leather Biker Jacket

4. Hard-Edged Asymmetry

Combine a layering top with an asymmetrical skirt and top it off with a moto. Add tall tailored boots or booties. Heeled sock booties are a great idea. Again, the repetition of the black in the outfit pulls the look together, but you can choose any colour to repeat. Add nude-for-you or black hosiery. Add jewellery, eyewear, watch, scarf and headgear as desired. 

BALENCIAGA Cropped Printed Leather Biker Jacket

Be Proud of Your Sartorial Preferences

Every so often one of my clients will apologize for liking a look, silhouette or design detail. For example, they’ll say, “I’m sorry, but I actually like puffy sleeves and shoulder pads,” or, “I like ditsy patterns and frills, but I know they aren’t cool.” My reply is always, that’s great! And sometimes I like the said item, detail or vibe too. Perhaps not for my own style, but for the client. I always encourage them to explore the look.

Don’t worry about being perceived as uncool or unstylish because of your personal preferences. Strive to be less affected by what others think. What makes your preferences less fabulous anyway? Because it strays from the golden mean of what is thought of as stylish and attractive? Because outfit bloggers aren’t wearing it? That’s codswallop. If anything, liking something that few others do makes it more special, personal and unique.

There is no one way to be stylish, and aesthetics are extremely subjective. That’s why there is no right and wrong with sartorial choice. Stand up for what you like, and be proud of your sartorial preferences. Wearing a look that you love with confidence, ease, verve and authenticity goes a long way to making it fabulous. THAT is cool.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Weekly Roundup: Assorted Items

Here are some items that have been winners on clients and forum members recently, or that simply caught my eye. I haven’t seen the items from Scandinavian & Other Stories in person yet, but know the store from regular visits to see my Dad in the Netherlands. Like COS, the store is owned by H&M. The merchandise is very different to COS. Not as crisp, architectural and well made, but not budget fast fashion either.

  • Jérôme Dreyfuss Bob Crossbody Bag: A client who does not enjoy carrying clutches is using this bag for dressier settings because it has a convenient strap. It's GORGEOUS and looks prettier in person.
  • Organic Cotton Denim Tie Shirt - Blue - Shirts - & Other Stories: Denim shirts can look overly Western, stiff and masculine if that's not your thing. I'm drawn to this one because it has a soft, pretty and retro vibe. Best suited to those who like to wear high necklines. I have this on order.
  • COS Draped Wrap Top: A fabulously dramatic tunic for Team Tall & Broad Shoulders. Works best if you can fill it out on the shoulders and bust. Architectural, voluminous, and needs a camisole.
  • Short Utility Crossbody Bag - White - Shoulderbags - & Other Stories: Sporty Luxe Crisp Crossbody Fabness. And for Team Silver Hardware.
  • COS Draped-neck Merino Jumper: An architectural piece for those with a long torso, neck and arms. Works well for a regular length torso too. Quite forgiving of midsection extra bits.
  • COS A-line Top With Pleated Back: Fably arty and drapey. Works well on an apple and inverted triangle body type. Can work on a larger bust. Fun back box pleating. The extreme volume is offset by the shorter length and asymmetrical hem.
  • Banana Republic Vegan Leather Circle Tote Bag: A faux leather tote that lies flat against the body, is roomier than you expect, and comes in three colours. The white comes with silver hardware.
  • Preen By Thornton Bregazzi Tracy ruched floral-print stretch-crepe midi skirt: GORGEOUS structured midi that works as well for straighter figures as it does for curvy figures. The diagonal lines of the seaming, hem and ruching create an interesting and flattering effect on most body types.
  • COS Draped Blouse With Gathering: The extreme gathers and diagonal hem on this top give it structure and interest. Great to see a very fluid top with structure that can be worn out and untucked for a change.
  • COS Silk-cotton Polo Shirt: For those who like a bit of Preppy action, this comes in dark blue too. It could work quite well over a pleated or bias-cut skirt. I have this on order in navy because it could be a good essential.
  • COS Woven-jersey Mix Shirt: A mixed-media shirt with woven front, collar and cuffs, and knitted back and sleeves. Comfortable. Boxy, yet it's just structured enough. Good for Team Tomboy, and comes in white.
  • Deux Lux Annabelle Camera Bag: Well-made casual crossbody bag for Team Cool Tones.
  • BC Belts Vintage Imitation Pearl / Flower Stud Belt: An ornate belt for Team Cool Tones.
  • FitFlop Twiss Crystal Slide: Comfy and supportive sandals that can work as house shoes too. Can fit a lower volume foot and a wider volume foot. Lower volume foot might need to size down half a size. Comes in three neutrals.
  • AFRM AFRM Brynne Print Midi Skirt | Nordstrom: A bias-cut skirt that works on a range of body types. Streamlined and comfortable. Fab with UNTUCKED tops. Comes in two colors and patterns.
  • ALL IN FAVOR All in Favor Rib Knit Midi Dress | Nordstrom: A fun dress for a rectangle or inverted triangle with a smaller bust.
  • Topshop Topshop Horse Scribble Midi Skirt | Nordstrom: Super cute A-line midi nod to the '90s with interesting horse pattern. Works well on a straighter and curvier body type. Works well on a shorter and longer waist. Can be worn with tucked or untucked tops. Very long, but easy to hem.
  • Halogen Halogen Double Ring Leather Belt | Nordstrom: An interesting basic belt that comes in three colours.
  • Calvin Klein Fit and Flare Logo Belt Midi Dress: Fabulous midi for a curvy body type and broader shoulder. Works well on a larger bust despite the high neckline. Nice fit if you can fill it out.
  • Kasper Floral-Print Pleated Top: This top has a subtle front pleat that adds shape and interest. The armholes don't gape too wide either. Fab on a larger bust, forgiving on midsection extra bits, streamlined, and good on a short waist.
  • Duo Zipper Crossbody Bag - Green - Shoulderbags - & Other Stories: A teal crossbody with silver hardware is hard to find. I like the structure and boxiness of this one, although the strap is quite narrow, which can dig into your skin when the bag is heavy.
  • Donna Morgan Women's Mockneck Jersey Dress: This is a great little frock if you like turtlenecks and cool tones. Fitted, yet forgiving. Fab length. Easy to launder and pack. VERY comfy. It would have been mine if the pattern was warm-toned because it's flattering and easy.
  • Banana Republic Fitted Stretch-Cotton Crew-Neck Sweater: Every once in a while, Banana Republic can whack it out of the ballpark - like with these little darlings that are a repeat style. These fitted pullovers are made of substantial fabric, feel great, and are very versatile. Dressier than a T-shirt. More forgiving on the midsection than you think. I can wear them in the Summer and not feel hot. The white is not see-through at all. EXCELLENT layering tops under toppers, easy to launder and pack. Crease-resistant. Crisp and polished. Try them if you like to wear fitted tops. Comes in five colours. I have the black and white, and am topping up with red and pink.
  • COS Round-neck Cashmere Jumper: This is a repeat style that I have in orange from a few seasons ago. Gorgeous fit, colour and quality. Architectural drape.
  • Stella + Ruby Multi Resin Earrings: Fun rainbow earrings to brighten a dull day.
  • Børn Børn Lenni Chelsea Boot (Women) | Nordstrom: An extremely comfy stompy boot that works on a variety of foot shapes. Too narrow for wide toes, but has a high-ish instep.
  • Ecco Soft 7 Tred GORE-TEX High: EXCELLENT arctic lined and weatherproof hi-tops for cold, wet, snowy and icy weather. Insulating and toasty warm. Easy zipper access and very comfortable.. Can work for a wider foot and fit an orthotic.
  • Boden Jersey Longerline Blazer: A knitted longer length blazer that is beautifully made and very comfortable. Works well on a straighter and curvier figure. Works on a larger bust. Excellent for Team Tall. Comes in navy. Has very fun striped lining.

Go to the collection page if you would like to see the images alongside my descriptions.

COS
Draped Wrap Top
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COS
Silk-cotton Polo Shirt
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COS
Woven-jersey Mix Shirt
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The Bias Cut

The ‘80s continue to influence fashion in a big way, but ‘90s influences are gaining momentum. A ‘90s look I fondly remember is the woven bias-cut skirt, dress and top. Bias cut means that the pieces used to make the garments were cut on the diagonal bias of the fabric. In other words, the pattern pieces were not positioned parallel to the straight or cross grains of the fabric, but at a 45 degree angle.

The beauty of the bias cut is the increased elasticity and flexibility of the finished garment. Visually it creates superior drape and swoosh. Practically it creates stretch sans the spandex and an amazing ease of movement.

Bias-cut items can create a unique type of structure that clings to the body with ease and fluidity. It’s not the same effect as spandex that grabs onto the contour of the body, showcasing lumps and bumps because there is no ease. Bias-cut items can also create a controlled volume that collapses back onto the body with flouncing grace. The hems of bias cuts flutter in a subtle or exaggerated way that looks soft, pretty, and interesting.

The collection shows examples of skirts, dresses and tops that are bias-cut.

Shopbop
Vince Bias Skirt
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Shopbop
Vince Bias Skirt
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Zara
Metallic Thread Top
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If you choose a bias cut in the right silhouette, chances are high it will flatter your body type because there is tailoring without the cling, or volume with ample structure. Bias cuts mould to the contour of your shape in a magical way. Curvy body types will enjoy how the fit stretches to glide over their curves instead of fighting them like straight cuts do. Conversely, straighter body types will enjoy how the fit contracts to stick to their narrower hips and thighs.

I’ve found that narrower bias-cut skirts are much easier to fit than dresses, because if the bias cut is slightly off on the waist and torso of a streamlined bias-cut dress, the fabric bulges and doesn’t lie flat against the body. If the bias cut of a dress or skirt is too narrow, it can accentuate saddle bags, so finding one with more volume or is A-line is key. If the bias-cut skirt or dress is too short, it will ride up the body. Longer bias-cut skirts and dresses with a bit of volume tend to fit more easily because the weight of the volume creates a better drape. The “gliding” effect can be magical.

I’m open to adding a bias-cut midi dress or skirt to my wardrobe this year because I love the way they drape, move, and flutter on the hems. How about you?

Peter Pilotto Scarf Neck Midi Dress

RACHEL Rachel Roy Kelsie Dress