Spring & Summer 2020: Theme and Silhouette

It’s time for talking trends on YLF. Earlier this week I reported on the big seven trends, and gave a colour and pattern forecast. Today we’re moving on to themes and silhouettes. Remember that trends last for years, and even decades, these days, and that Doing Your Own Thing (DYOT) is what matters most. Some looks are mainstream, while others are fringe. Pick what’s to your taste from the buffet of trends and sport things your way.

You’ll notice a lot of ‘90s looks coming through. The early and mid ‘90s were a lovely mix of 70’s and ‘80s fashion, so you’ll have fun flashbacks of those eras too. If these looks are your preferred decades, milk it.

Long Blazers

Blazer lengths that cover the bottom and hips, and extend onto the thighs, are where it’s at for now. Styles are single and double-breasted, and can be left unfastened. The idea is to wear them with anything, so dresses and skirts across various lengths, full-length and cropped pants and jeans across all sorts of silhouettes, and shorts too. Scrunch or roll the sleeves for structure. A turned-back contrast lining on the sleeve is a nice touch.

Bra Tops

This is not an item of underwear. It’s a cropped tank top that looks a bit like a sports bra, and is used as a layering item under sheer tops, blazers, jackets or cardigans. The idea is to wear it with high-rise bottoms and a third piece so that the effect is alluring yet quite covered.

Sheer Layers and Crochet

Think of fluid, fitted, boxy or billowing blouses, shirts, sweaters, tees and tunics made of see-through fabric or crochet knits. The idea is to layer a tank or camisole under the sheer layer to create an interesting effect. You can layer a jacket or cardigan over the top to amp up the layered vibe. Crocheted dresses, shorts and skirts with lining are there too.

Disco Collars

Hello ‘70s! Think Saturday Night Fever and you’ve got the look. We’ll be seeing pointy and wide disco collars on shirts, blouses and dresses. You can easily layer them under jackets, cardigans and coats because the sleeves are streamlined. I suspect this trend to stay very fringe.

Statement Shirts

Note that shirts are not blouses, and this trend is about SHIRTS. We’re not talking about essential, simple and classic button-down shirts either. It’s a bold shirt that makes a statement and is much more than basic. Think mullet shirts, tunic shirts with dramatic puffed and smocked sleeves, architectural shirts, wrap shirts, front frill point shirts, pirate shirts and poet shirts.

Waistcoats

A waistcoat is a short formal vest with front buttons that is worn over another layer like a shirt, tee, blouse, tank top, or dress. It’s a traditional menswear garment and can form part of a three-piece suit. That way you layer a jacket over the lot if you want to. It’s usually tailored although fluid versions are there. It can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned, and is a fringe trend. It’s fun over sleeveless tops and dresses for Summer.

Full-Length Pants and Cropped Pants

The runways are showcasing full-length pants AND cropped pants. Full-length pants are either very long and skim or sweep the surface of the ground, or they’re at the new and more practical shorter full length. Cropped pants are cropped anywhere from two to six inches above the ankle bone.

Fits are tailored, fluid and slouchy. Hems are regular, scrunched, frayed, distressed, cuffed or rolled. Fabrics are hard, soft, stiff, architectural or flowing. Think patterns and solids and all sorts of casual and dressy renditions. Hems are tapered or wide, but silhouettes are roomier in the legs if the hems are tapered.

Statement Jeans

Designer collections are featuring denim a lot more frequently than they used to, and none of the silhouettes are simple. Think of jeans as a statement item and not just a simple essential that fades into the background of the outfit. Jeans have waist trims, belts, pleats, irregular pockets, tuxedo trims, hem treatments, cuff treatments, and other bells and whistles to make them stand out and look different to classic skinnies.

Safari Chic

Cast your mind back to what Meryl Streep wore in the movie “Out of Africa” and you’re on the right track. Think jackets, shirts, shirt dresses, skirts, pants and shorts in shades of tan, olive and khaki with utility detailing like drawstrings, tie belts, chinos, cargo pockets, carpenter loops, canvas belts, patch pockets and tortoiseshell trim. Finish off the look with brown leather and earthy accents.

Midis and Maxis with Movement

Skirt lengths are knee, calf and ankle covering. 95% of the silhouettes are A-line and flared in some way for ease of movement. Many of the hemlines showcase some sort of asymmetrical interest. Straight, pencil and form-fitting skirts and dresses are few and far between because it’s all about flow and movement. Tiered styles, bias cuts, slip dresses, all sorts of pleats, and slip skirts look quite fresh.

Wide Pants and High Rises

Pants and jeans are tailored with movement like bootcuts, roomy and very roomy all the way down, or pleated up top and tapered at the hems with ample fluidity in the middle. Roomy straight legs or narrow wide crops are popular, and cropped to around the ankle or scrunched over the ankle and very long in length.

Rises are high, or very high. Waistbands finish just under, on, or over the belly button. Flat fronts are as popular as pleats and paperbag waists. The idea is to showcase the waist by tucking, semi-tucking, wearing a short top, or wearing a top or topper that belts in the same position as the waistband of the bottoms.

Balloon Leg Pants and Jeans

These are pants with a higher rise, tailored hip and bottom fit, a roomy leg fit that “balloons” away from the thighs, and hems that taper back to the leg. The waist can be straight or pleated. Lantern pants are a close cousin, but sometimes aren’t as structured on the crotch point and hips.

Shorter Tops and Body-Con Tops

As bottoms become wider and higher in the rise, tops become shorter and/or more fitted so that you can wear the two together with some structure. This the opposite of the “long over lean” look that has stuck around as the benchmark for more than a decade.

Short Shorts

Very short shorts covered the catwalks in countless renditions. Baggy, tight, belted, and straight across all sorts of colours, fabrics, solids and patterns. They were paired with short fluid tops, roomy cropped tops, bra tops and slouchy tucked shirts, blouses or tees. Short shorts might be on-trend at the moment, but we see them every season because they sell well in the US, and especially to young adults.

Long Shorts

Wooohooo! I love long shorts, and it’s fun to see them regain fashionable momentum. Long shorts have hems that are knee-length. This means that their hems finish a little above, on, or just below the kneecap. Styles are baggy, fluid or tight, casual or dressy, pleated or straight at the waist, and mid to high in the rise. They can be paired with just about any top, cardigan or jacket, and worn with anything from glam heels and sandal booties, to sneakers, flats, mules and sandals.

Tailoring and Straight Slouch

Today’s fashion is a wonderful mixture of waist-defining form-fitting silhouettes AND unstructured waist-surrendering silhouettes. Gorgeous tailoring, subtle fluidity, roomy fluidity, and oversized slouch, so take your pick. Drape, architectural drape, or showcasing the contour of your body just as you want to.

Sharp Shoulders and Puffy Sleeves

The ‘80s sharp shoulder has been trending for a while but is not mainstream like it used to be. I’m not sure it will ever be maintream again, but at least we have the option. Puffy sleeves that are gathered on the crown and tapered at the wrist are completely mainstream, and a much easier silhouette to wear in warm weather when you don’t need a jacket.

Trouser Suiting

Suiting with all sorts of pant silhouettes is huge, and completely mainstream in solids, micro plaids, pinstripes, florals or any other pattern that tickles your fancy. They’re made of breezy Summery fabrics like silk, cotton, rayon, viscose and linen blends. Some of the blazers are longer length, but many are regular hip bone length. The idea is to wear a pants suit as a fast-fall-back outfit in all sorts of settings with dressy heels, sneakers, oxfords, sandals, mules, loafers or dressy flats. Combine it with a tee, blouse, shirt, bra top, silky camisole, or cotton pullover. Wear a tailored suit, or a more relaxed oversized suit.

Black from Head-to-Toe

Wearing black separates or a dress with black footwear and black handbag is as ‘90s as it gets, and even I wore it back in 1995. In my experience, it can look very flat and drab if there is little textual interest between the black components, so try to create outfit pizzazz with unusual fabric combinations and shiny trim. Throw in white shoes and bag to break up the black. Sport navy with black. Or wear white-out which is the opposite side of the same coin.

Non-Neutral from Head-to-Toe

Pick a non-neutral and wear it from head-to-toe, or tonal shades of it from head-to-toe. I wear shades of red and watermelon from head-to-toe, and would love to do the same with bright pink, turquoise, citron, apple green, and light blue. The hardest part is getting the footwear to match in the same colour, so you have to be really committed to the non-neutral you choose to sport.

Belting

There is SO much belting on the runways all of which highlight the waist. There are belted tops, jackets, gilets and coats. High-rise jeans and pants are worn with wide belts, and dresses are belted at the waist with a broad belt, ‘80s style.

For my own style, I like it all in varying degrees, but will say no thank you to short shorts, black from head-to-toe, and bra tops. Pretty sheer layers, crochet tops in white or blue, statement shirts and jeans, long shorts, wide pants and high rises, midis with movement, non-neutrals from head-to-toe, Summer trouser suiting, puffy sleeves, and balloon leg pants get a big thumbs up. I like both tailored fits and straight slouch, and might try some sharp shoulders. And I LOVE wearing the new shorter full length flared pants and jeans with flats or sneakers and a short or tucked top.

Which of these vibes and silhouettes are you feeling for Spring and Summer?

Eloquii Off the Shoulder Top

Eloquii Sheer Dot Maxi Dress

Zara Seam Detail Long Shorts

Karen Kane Tank Midi Dress

MandS Collection Sienna Straight Leg Jeans

Zara Pleated Dress

Spring & Summer 2020: Colour and Pattern

After yesterday’s post on the seven trends that stood out on the Spring & Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear runways, it’s on to colours and patterns. Imagine the colours in any wardrobe item, make-up colour, nail polish, or hair colour. Imagine the patterns in any wardrobe item or nail adornment. 

1.Blue

Blue in all its shades is the colour of the year. It was heavily represented in runway shows, and especially in denim, solids, and in patterns. From the palest of baby blue to the deepest ink blue, and everything in between. Think bright blues like turquoise and cobalt too. Blue is extremely versatile and can be combined with every neutral and non-neutral. Light blue shoes are a pretty fringe trend, and look smashing with a matching bag.

2.Neutrals

Since the ‘90s are trending, we’re going to see a lot of black clothing, footwear and accessories. Grey takes a backseat in lieu of shades of blue. Shades of white continue to exude a modern crispness, and the white footwear trend is here to stay. Neutrals like olive, khaki and shades of tan are strong, and are a nod to ‘90s Safari Chic.

3. Earth Tones

Earth tones continue to trend, and are a nod to the ‘70s component of the ‘90s trend. Think spice colours and all sorts of browns like mustard, turmeric, curry, rust, burnt orange, cognac, chestnut, saddle, toffee, coffee, cinnamon, milk chocolate, dark chocolate, tan, sand, taupe, khaki, stone, maize, oxblood, burgundy, bronze, tortoiseshell, gold, and animal patterns in these earthy shades. Remix earth tones with ANY palette.

4. Brights

The new Spring season has kicked off with my favourite sour brights and I’m not complaining. Tomato red, citron, lime green, apple green, chartreuse, orange, turquoise, watermelon and shocking pink are popular, and remixed with ANY palette, and with each other. They are remixed with ‘90s black, ‘80s white, and ‘70s earth tones as well as all sorts of pastels because — as I strongly believe — sour brights are versatile.

I see shades of lilac, purple, orchid, emerald, ruby red and teal coming through, so all is not lost for jewel tone lovers. There is blush and mint for pastel lovers too.

5. Neon

Neon brights in yellow, pink, green, orange and blue are there, but as a fringe trend, and often as an accessory, trim or sneaker. Head-to-toe neon is there, and quite yummy if you fancy bright outfits. It’s a lot more soothing on the eye when ONE neon colour is worn head-to-toe instead of two or three.

6. Polka Dots

Polka dots give stripes some competition. Polka dots in all sorts of variations are trending, although I think of them as an iconic classic in two-toned symmetrical neutrals. Large, small, irregular, symmetrical, neutral, non-neutral, two-toned, multi-toned — you name it and it’s there. Sport a polka dot accessory if wearing polka dot clothing is too much of a good thing.

7. Ditsy Florals and Small Quiet Prints

It wouldn’t be a ‘90s inspired season without a good dose of dainty ditsy florals, and small patterns in two or three subtle colours. You’ll see these types of patterns make their biggest statement in dresses, blouses, skirts, flowing wide pants, and scarves.

8. Tropical and Botanical

Tropical and botanical patterns are a nod to ‘90s Safari Chic, which is when we saw leaf and foliage patterns galore. These patterns can be loud and bold, or soft, quiet and subtle, neutral or non-neutral, so take your pick.

9. Pattern Mix

Pattern mixing has become an important part of our fashion era because it’s one way to be maximal, creative, look interesting, and make wardrobe items more versatile. You can pattern mix in subtle or bold ways, and remix exactly as you like. These days, most patterns can be worn together if there are cohesive elements in the outfit pulling the look together.

I like the colours for the season, which I know I say every year. I guess I can easily find my colours because the palette of my wardrobe is diverse. Although I wear some earth tones, I don’t like to wear them for Spring and Summer. I’m not into black, but I’m all over shades of blue. Blue is my colour of the year, so that’s fortuitous. Light blue, denim blue, turquoise, French blue, and navy are a big yes please. Sour brights make my mouth water and are my favourites, and I’m all for some neon. White is my favourite neutral and I like to see lots of it. I also bat for Team Polka Dots, but will say no thank you to ditsy florals and most botanical and tropical patterns. I do enjoy a pretty and bold floral though.

Over to you. What do you think of the season’s colours and patterns?

Eloquii High Waisted Crop Jean

Mango Leather Culotte Trouser

Violeta Jeans Bi-Stretch push-up Irene

11 Honore Printed Poplin Midi Skirt

Anthropologie Nadia Cut-Out Waffle Tunic

Antik Batik Talita Dress

Spring & Summer 2020: The Big Seven

I’m going to report on the next six months of fashion in five separate posts instead of one extremely long and overwhelming one. That way the info is easier to digest and we can focus our conversations in the comments section. Let the trendy games begin.

I’ve seen many of the Ready-to-Wear collections for Spring 2020. Every season, a set of cohesive and interesting themes emerge through the chaos and drama that struts down the runway. Some of these themes have staying power for years, and sometimes even decades. Unfortunately, the lack of diversity across the body type and age of the runway models was disappointing, and looks dated. I am forever hopeful that this will change.

Here are seven trends that stood out.

1. Sustainability

Many designers used fabrics, trims, and accessories from past collections to minimize waste and promote the idea of upscaling, recycling, repurposing and repeating. Many designers made a point of using ethically sourced materials and manufacturing plants. Some designers pushed for a plant-based collection that was void of all animal products. These actions form part of an extremely important message about the question of sustainability and style.

Achieving sustainability is extremely complex. There are no easy solutions, and many compromises. But we have to think about sustainability because the problems won’t go away unless action is taken. Every small action counts, even if it’s just to ease your conscience. So these days, you have to think long and hard about what sustainability means for you and your style, and be vigilant about the sustainable actions that you can manage regularly. Sustainability means different things for different people, and some can manage it more easily than others. It’s not a contest, so by all means compare, but do not despair. As long as you’re making a point of being sustainable your way, it’s a good thing.

2. Do Your Own Thing (DYOT)

There is no one way to be stylish. Fashion is a melting pot of sartorial choices, and increasing diversity in fashion with each passing year means that there is something for everyone. Trends are no longer seasonal and fads no longer exist. Trends are becoming harder to define, and at some point they will be irrelevant. That’s why creating a signature style and evolving it over time is one of the most important and relevant trends of them all. Wear the trends, don’t wear them, remix them, repeat them, reinvent them — it’s all good. Do your own thing!

3. Practical Comfort

Our fast-paced world expects us to travel at the drop of a hat, multitask, and work long hours. This modern way of life demands comfort. That’s why it’s trendy to wear fashion or athletic sneakers with anything, and to throw on leggings with a blazer, dressy bag, and glam jewellery. Unstructured clothing, elastic waists, fabrics with stretch, machine-washable workwear, clothing with hidden pockets, dressy flats, trendy puffer coats, and the oh-so-popular juxtaposition of remixing casual with dressy pieces continues to make a strong statement in today’s fashion.

4. Celebrating Classics and Icons

Designers and retailers are making a point of giving modern classics and iconic items their fashionable moment. They are remixing them in new ways to prevent boredom and showcase versatility. Wear a dressy trench coat with joggers and sneakers. Throw on a blazer and Dr. Martens with anything. A baseball cap and Chucks can work with a ball dress, and a pencil skirt can be worn with your varsity sweatshirt. The trend is promoting sustainability because wearing an old item in a new way can be better than buying something new.

5. Happy Tension

The tension between opposing trends is more apparent than ever. Outfit Maximalism shakes hands with minimal looks. Oversized slouch, surrendered waistlines and architectural volume can live happily with busloads of structure, body-con and waist definition. Dressy pieces and uber-casual items are equally on-trend, and by all means remix them into one outfit. Neutrals and earth tones are as popular as brights and jewel tones. Pointy toes are as important as square toes, and stilettos look just as fab as block heels.

This type of happy trend tension creates fashion diversity and reinforces doing your own thing. It gives looks a higher longevity factor, making it harder and harder to call an item “dated”. It supports sustainability, and our need to be as diverse in fashion as we can be.

6. The ‘90s

With respect to silhouettes and outfit combinations, you’ll see a strong flashback to the ‘90s. The early ‘90s were a meaningful nod to the ’80s, and the mid ‘90s had lots of ‘70s appeal, so I see it as more of a flashback to three decades instead of one. This is another nod to sustainability, because it’s hip and fashionable to thrift and wear items that are several decades old instead of passing them on as dated looks.

7. Personal Slogans

Designers and retailers continue to use their influential platforms to make statements that are important to them and their brand. Many of the messages are political, but sometimes they’re light-hearted, funny, and take the mickey out of the ridiculous fashion industry. YLF is not a political blog, so the specifics of the messages are not the point. But the trend is something we can incorporate into our own styles by wearing slogans and outfit combinations that showcase a personal message. It can be subtle or bold, and executed your way.

It’s important to remember that despite what’s happening on the runways or in trend forecasts, retailers will continue to supply the market with items that they sell well at retail. Items will stick around for as long as consumers will buy them. Designers do not have the power to control trends as much as we do collectively as consumers. We are the ones in control.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

Read More

Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

Read More

Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

Read More

Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

Read More

Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Outfit Formula: Mustard Magic

This post is for Team Mustard. It’s been ages since we saw earth tones make a trendy statement, so I’m all for seeing them bask in their glory on those who enjoy wearing the shades. On to some fun mustard looks. 

1. Mustard, Cinnamon, Oats and Cream

This outfit combines four earth tones in trendy silhouettes, and the result is smashing. Pair a cream top and cinnamon pants. These wide legs are at the fashionable shorter full length with flats. Feel free to throw in a cinnamon skirt instead. Add oatmeal flats and a mustard topper. The drama of the maxi topper is elegant, and swooshes with the flare of the bottoms. Add a cinnamon, tan, cream or mustard bag and you’re done.

GIULIVA HERITAGE The Dust Grain de Poudre Cotton Coat

2. Column of Mustard

It’s hard to pull together this look unless you have the exact pieces. But for those who adore mustard, try combining a mustard patterned dress with a mustard topper. Throw in cream, tan or cognac footwear and bag. Nude-for-you hosiery is best for a little more insulation. Try a sheath dress and blazer if that’s more your thing.

Violeta Zipped Biker Jacket

3. Mustard Top, Blue Jeans and Snake

Combine a mustard top with blue jeans, and finish things off with snakeskin footwear and bag. The top needn’t be lace, and you can choose any animal pattern as an accent. The bag and shoes needn’t be the same animal print either. Or if that’s too much, throw in a solid bag and pair of shoes. Brown, navy, cream, tan, red or cinnamon come to mind.

Anthropologie Marigold Lace Blouse

4. Mustard, White and Cognac

This is my favourite of the four because white jeans are my thing. I LOVE how they add a crisp and modern integrity to vintage ‘70s mustard and earthy cognac boots. The cognac boots effectively bookend the model’s hair. If the model had black hair, black boots would work well too. The tight ribbed top and wide jeans are super trendy silhouettes at the moment, but by all means create a similar vibe with silhouettes that are more to your taste. Classic, bohemian, avant-garde, sporty, eclectic, romantic, retro – you name it, it’s all good. Add jewellery, watch and eyewear as desired.

JW ANDERSON Striped Ribbed Wool-blend Turtleneck Sweater

Link Love: Fashion Week Time

What Fashion Week is like for Kristen Hammond, “the person behind New York Fashion Week.”

6 emerging designers to know this fashion month who are showing their collections in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

The Guardian rounds up 12 New York Fashion Week designers to watch.

An interesting read at Fashionista: “There is still plenty of exciting talent happening in New York, but without a captive, international audience, it will be hard for these brands to grow. “

Fab Links from Our Members

Slim Cat wanted to share this BBC article about the clothes that shook the world.

kkards thought this was an interesting read on the evolution of street wear and fashion weeks as we move into a new age.

She also enjoyed browsing these Oscars 2020 photos.

There are a lot of scarf tying videos out there. This one really appealed to Vildy as a short person because the suggestions seem to give more control over the volume.

Runcarla found it interesting how so many of these folks used vintage or thrifted clothing to create their looks for the first day of New York Fashion Week.

Suntiger directs us to the Pantone colours for Fall/Winter 2020.

Vildy suggests having a look at KarenBritchick’s video interview series if you are interested in non-commercial street style looks.

Suz liked this Guardian article on how to wear denim sustainably.

Shevia has not watched Netflix’s Next in Fashion, but found this story illuminating about how far we all still have to go.

Kari is loving this plus-sized NYFW collection by Rene Tyler, especially the floaty black & white gown, and the swingy sparkly gown. 

She is also super interested to see the MFIT Ballerina: Fashion’s Modern Muse exhibition.

Nuancedream found it fascinating how the constraints of the Victorian and Edwardian eras were finally discarded in the 1920s and how that influenced fashion.

Lesley loves Grown and Curvy Woman: “I basically want most of her wardrobe, and she puts things together delightfully. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if we get to the place where the standard-sized (for lack of a better term) were jealous of plus-sized wardrobes for a change?”