The top circumference of your sleek, knee-high boots should be snug around your calves. There shouldn’t be more than a quarter of an inch of space at the top of the boot and that’s pushing it. Wearing long, streamlined boots that don’t fit snuggly against the calf is like wearing a tailored jacket that’s too big on the shoulder. It breaks the look.

It’s a tall order finding a pair of knee-high boots that can be worn both over jeans AND with frocks or skirts. Boots over jeans need to be wider and roomier to comfortably accommodate excess fabric. Some boots inherently have the flexibility to work well in both situations:

• A buckle to adjust calf width: my flat, black riding boots have a magical buckle that’s very handy.
• A front lacing style: knee-high boots that lace-up in front (like 20 eyelet Dr Martens) can be adjusted to achieve perfect fit.
• A slouchy style: slouchy boots are not meant to offer a sleek profile. Their fit is scrunched and roomy all over the leg which makes it work equally well over pants and with skirts.

I see quite a few ill-fitting sleek, knee-high boots around town and it’s a shame because boots are pricey. Please make sure that your boots fit at the calf. It makes all the difference.

The streamlined boots on the left are too loose around the calf and are ill-fitting in my book. The slouchy boots on the right are fine to fit a little wider around the calf area because that’s in keeping with the style.

Here is something I’ve read in fashion magazines, heard on television and seen mentioned in the forum: if you haven’t worn an item of clothing for over a year, pass it on.

I encourage closet editing, but I don’t agree with the strict application of this rule. If an item is dated, uncomfortable, ill-fitting or unflattering – by all means pass it on. But what happens to the items that are perfect, but are not in current circulation. Do they need to go? I don’t think so.

I suggest keeping items that are still in vogue, fit well, look good and that you enjoyed wearing before your preferences changed. Here are a few examples from my wardrobe:

• Premium bootcut jeans: I prefer to wear skinnies and straight legs, but these five year-old jeans are in mint condition and staying in my closet.
• Bias cut tweed jacket: I was into the “English countryside look” four years ago but have not sported it since. My funky tweed jacket was left orphaned for years until I renewed its life yesterday by matching it with a new black necktie shirt, slouchy grey boots and a bee-brooch. I’m glad I hung on to it because the cut is unique and flattering.
• Pinstripe pants suit: I haven’t worn my pants suit in a while because I’m wearing pencil skirts instead. But I adore my suit and the fit is impeccable. Perhaps I’ll haul it out for cocktails over the holiday season and re-invent it’s look. It’s also a handy outfit to have for more conservative situations.
• Formal dresses: I have a few vintage-looking cocktail dresses which are several years old. They don’t come out to play each year, but are fairly timeless and put out fires when I need a formal outfit in jiff. I’m not throwing them out any time soon.

It is important to be selective though. Don’t use this rationale to hoard questionable items. If in doubt, pass it on.

What’s your keep or toss rule?

People in this city take personal presentation very seriously. Men and women of all ages are, for the most part, extremely well put together. They aren’t afraid to dress up, look smart or take fashion risks. You will see all the personas represented, from modern-classics and retro fashionistas, to funky bohemians and arty eclectics.

The weather was warm, but Autumn all the same. For the locals it was time to haul out Autumn fashions and the following looks were all the rage:

• Monochromatic palettes: Black, cream, white, metallics and grey textured ensembles were by far the most popular look. Colour was predominantly represented through accessories, footwear and handbags. Bright tops and jackets were in the minority, which was surprising to me. Perhaps locals shared my current neutral mood in the light of a changing season.
• Leggings with voluminous tunic tops, skirts and frocks: There were vast quantities of leggings – black and grey, short and long. Jewel-encrusted and lace detailing were popular. It’s an easy, comfortable and cost effective look that’s perfect for the HK climate. Also a big hit in Paris this spring, it’s interesting how leggings never gained as much popularity in the US.
• Skinnies and clamdiggers with blousy tops: One of my favourite looks and one I wore each day while I was there. There were loads of neck-tie blouses, lantern sleeves, empire cuts and tops with tiered hems. Blue denim skinnies and straight legs were the preference, but black and grey were popular too. I was inspired by the dark grey skinnies look and got myself a high-waisted pair at French Connection. I counted a total of six women in wide-legged pants all week.
• Layering T’s with voluminous cardis and shrugs: Funky embellished T-shirts worn under textured knits was a uniform with the younger crowd.
• Miniskirts, frocks and short-shorts with slouchy boots and booties: Mid-thigh skirts and short-shorts were everywhere (bare-legged, or with textured hose). The look was worn with calf-high or knee-high boots for extra coverage. Rugged biker boots and booties were also common and Dr Martens are definitely making a comeback.
• Cropped anoraks: lightweight, sporty anoraks with retro design details were abundant. I was inspired and brought back a little black trapeze style with a sporty cream stripe. It was put straight into circulation the moment I got it.
• Knee socks with heels and flats: A sweet school girl look that was seen on older women too.
• Non-black neutral footwear: Black footwear was not as prevalent as grey, metallic, pewter, cream, brown and tan footwear. Enthused, I miraculously found two pairs of comfy grey peds (over-the-knee flat slouchy boots, and studded patent one-inch chunky heels).
• Converse: It’s the number one casual shoe on the street. Both men and women wore black, grey, blue or white Chuck Taylors as if their lives depended on it.
• Large totes: most men and woman carry a large handbag during the day and many of them are designer.
• Accessories: generally, everyone was wearing either one, or all of the following: oversized watches, muffler scarves, chunky necklaces, sunglasses and funky eyewear. Cell phone ornaments are a must when you live in HK (more on that later).

Far fewer people wore jeans. Leggings, skirts, frocks and short-shorts were more popular at this time of year. This encouraged my purchase of two fab Autumn dresses (a solid black 60’s go-go frock, and a retro 50’s style in a Winter floral).

Effortlessness is what makes HK streetwear especially stylish. You wouldn’t expect this from a society that commutes on foot and in public transport, and spends time in hot, crowded places. Dressing well in HK is expected. It’s a killer fashion culture that I find exhilarating whenever I’m in town.

(1) Chunky pearl necklace and an all black ensemble. (2) Miniskirt, ruffled sling bag, grey pullover, slouchy boots. (3) Voluminous tunic with leggings, stacked gladiators, chestnut handbag.

(1) Black skinnies, sleek knitwear, pumps, designer handbag, chunky neclace. (2) Clamdiggers, blousy top, neutral tan pumps, olive hobo handbag. (3) Short-shorts, voluminous animal print blouse, knee socks, distressed flats, oversized tote.

(1) “The” slouchy boot look, worn with frocks, skirts and short-shorts. (2) Mid-heel olive green pumps (one to two inch heels were the most popular heel height for daytime). (3) Funky Dr Martens (worn with a mini dress in this case).

(1) Wide-legged pants, cream necktie blouse, slouchy tan hobo handbag. (2) Skinny faded jeans, voluminous tiered blouse, designer patent handbag. (3) Skinny distressed jeans, T-shirt, moto jacket, oversized man-bag, cap, beaded bracelet, oversized watch (and Converse that you can’t see). Cool dude! (4) Skirt over leggings, knitted top, muffler scarf, chunky heeled pumps, frame handle handbag.

I battle to get shirts that fit my dainty frame, longish arms and regular length torso. When I do find them I usually end up paying premium price. This was true of the two Anne Fontaine shirts I bought in Paris earlier this year. It would be a wardrobe dream come true if I could replicate the fit of my Anne Fontaine shirts in different colours and fabrications. Unfortunately, my experiment with a custom made shirt from Sam’s Tailor in Hong Kong didn’t work out this way.

The problem began at the very beginning of the process. I adore fancy fabric and have had my heart set on a luxurious, iridescent stretch silk pewter shirt. It would be a timeless piece in my clothing mix. Within minutes of arriving at Sam’s I was thrilled to find a swatch of exactly the fabric I had in mind. I briefly thought about going with a more conservative black stretch silk, but ultimately decided to follow my first instinct.

The next day I returned for the fitting and knew the shirt wasn’t right the moment I saw it. My heart sank as the fitting confirmed my fears. It was cut too wide on the shoulder, torso and upper arm, resulting in a matronly look that wasn’t at all the sleek profile of the Anne Fontaine original. The shirt was also about an inch too short on the center front. The only way to solve all of these problems would be a clean start. A shoulder line can’t be narrowed because the armhole is already cut, and it is impossible to lengthen the front. We had a big problem.

Manu Melwani (the “Sam” of “Sam’s Tailor”) was very polite, but argued that the change in fit was unavoidable given the new (stretch) fabric. He insisted that the fit was still fab. I became the nightmare client.

After much discussion and many alterations, my pewter shirt is still not perfect. The changes they did manage to make (narrowing the fit around my torso) threw the look off balance because of the things they couldn’t change (wide shoulder line and upper sleeve). The center front was correct, but by the time we got back to our hotel it had contracted back to the original shorter length. And while even my $69 Club Monaco shirt has French seams, Sam’s tailor used plain overlocked seams. Disappointed, I agreed to pay only the cost of the fabric and that was that.

What did I learn? First, changing the fabric from a soft non-stretch cotton organza to a rigid stretch silk was not the best idea. I’m pretty fabric savvy and should have known better. On the other hand I would also expect an experienced tailor to give me guidance on the choice of fabric. Second, it is important to find a tailor that specializes in ladies garments. Swirl’s conclusion based on her own experience (see yesterday’s comments) was that Sam’s is a good option for men’s suits, but not for ladies garments. Maybe I should have taken more notice of the fact that there were very few ladies on Sam’s wall of fame.

Having shirts custom made is not cheap (at Sam’s you should expect to pay something between Banana Republic and Anne Fontaine, depending on the fabric you choose for your shirt), but nothing ventured, nothing gained. It was an interesting experience and, unlike the shirt, the new jacket Sam’s made for me is fabulous. As for the pewter shirt, the fabric is absolutely gorgeous so I’m taking it to my alteration lady down the road to see if anything can be salvaged. I’ll keep you posted on how it turns out.