Movement and Rigidity in My Wardrobe

Clothing that amplifies movement is less structured, cut a little wider, and made of fabrications that are soft to allow for drape. Clothes that are structured, hard and stiff, do not move at all. 

I worked out why I don’t like to wear bootcut jeans, but love wearing bootcut trousers. At first I thought it was about the dressiness of trousers that made me like them more than a similar silhouette in jeans. But that makes little sense since I bat for Team Faded Denim. Actually, it’s more about the fabric movement in a pair of flared wool trousers, and the lack of movement in a pair of bootcut jeans. The drape of the wool allows the item to move as you stride, while the denim hangs rigidly against the body. 

I thought further about silhouettes that I enjoy wearing because of their “movement-factor”. Full skirts are an obvious example. They swoosh and make sounds as you move. Fluid and oversized knitwear with a welt (band at the waist) moves around the midriff, yet the welt provides ample structure. Oversized pullovers with high-low hemlines allow further midriff movement. Fluid wool trousers, although tapered at the hems, are baggy on the leg, which increases their movement factor. Roomy silk and linen blouses move by flopping around throughout the day. And my new pink man coat moves magically because of its slightly oversized cut, high back vent and drapey fabrication. 

For me it goes beyond feeling physically comfortable and being ready for action. It’s about a sense of elegance and chic that I associate with items that have movement. There is also a sense of “relaxed ease” that dresses down the vibe of formal pieces and amps up the modern aspect of your outfit. And last, it’s fun to wear clothes with a high-movement factor, like a full midi skirt. My happiness factor rises because of a sense of heightened freedom that I feel when I’m not wearing more rigid clothing. 

Of course, I’m also comfortable in and enjoy wearing more rigid clothing items, like straight leg jeans, denim jackets, cigarette pants, sheath dresses, form-fitting turtlenecks, tailored button-down shirts, and pencil skirts. In fact, my new white colour blocked jacket does not move at all, and I love it.

I have grown aware of my need for wardrobe items with a movement factor and how they positively affect my mood. So it’s important to me that the correct mix of movement and structure is reflected in my wardrobe. This in turn affects future purchasing decisions, which is why I’m returning this gorgeous long sleeved Angel Midi Bodycon dress from ASOS. It looked pretty, was warm, and the right length. But it didn’t have the movement factor. And seeing as I already added two sleeved form fitting (motionless) dresses to my wardrobe this year, I do not want to add another.  

Do these thoughts on clothing movement resonate with you? If so, does the happiness factor associated with movement go beyond the needs of physical comfort? Are you equally comfortable in highly structured clothing?

Nordstrom Roundup: Pink and Purple

In support of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month, here are some items in pink. I’ve also thrown in a few purple items for those who prefer it to pink for their personal style.
  • Halogen V-Neck Cashmere Sweater: V-necks are resurfacing and this one is a good basic. Available in 16 colours, of which I vote pink smoke and dark purpkle. Non-itchy and pretty fluid. Read the rave reviews. 
  • Eliza J Knit Fit & Flare Dress: A fit-and-flare frock with sleeves. Hallelujah. Could be your little pink dress for the holidays with a pair of metallic or black pumps. 
  • Eliza J Colorblock Sweater Dress: Fun over skinnies if you’re tall, or with tights and booties for Team Dress. Top with long wool coat and you’re done. 
  • Mendocino Cashmere Cardigan: Pretty and understated over a pair of faded or white jeans with tee and boots. Nice fit. 
  • Minkpink English Garden Sweater: Sport a Spring floral in Winter. Chunky and cozy. 
  • PJ Salvage Ski Jammies: Loungewear or pajamas, and nice for apres-ski. A different look to flannel and silk pajamas. 
  • Halogen Crewneck Sweater (Plus): A flattering fluid fit and neckline in a subtle animal print pattern if you go for the purple. 
  • Sejour Cowl Neck Sweater (Plus): A pull-on-and-go item that’s easy to match with a pair of jeans, trousers or Ponte pants. The vertical seaming down the front and back of the pullover adds vertical integrity to the fairly unstructured style. 
  • Sejour Shoulder Zip Drape Top (Plus): A refined knit top that’s handy for business casual over a skirt or pair of trousers. 
  • Kate Spade Tiera Wool Coat: The black colour blocked underside of the collar that is not visible in the photos is the best part of the ladylike coat. Tailored and refined. Nice to see a small collar on a coat for a change. 
  • Caslon Tunic Sweatshirt: ’80s memories without the shoulder pads. Add leggings, scarf, topper and boots and you’re out the door. 
  • Free People Rockabilly Raglan Sleeve Top: A swing top, which has been hard to find amidst a sea of oversized and welted tops. Cute for Team Casual Boho. 
  • Topshop Leopard Sweatshirt: A trendy tonal upscale kitty sweatshirt for those who prefer understated prints. Oversized and slouchy. 
  • Tory Burch Abitha Embellished Sweater: Polished, covered, festive and different. Match with skirt or trousers and you’re set for a casual holiday party. Or wear it during the day if you’re into Daytime Sparkle.  
  • Ann Klein Herringbone Pencil Skirt: A heavier weight textured pencil skirt that is as pink as it is purple. 
  • Dolce Vita Harlan Bootie: Match the skirt and embellished sweater with these booties if high heels are your thing. Beautifully tailored at the ankle with a trendy pointy toe. 
  • Aimee Kestenberg Sammy Crossbody Bag: Casually polished and hands-free for gals on the go. I love the way the sides fan out when unzipped. 
  • Collection XIIX Wool Cap: This is the best hat I’ve seen all season. How can a haute baseball cap with crisp lines not make you smile. I don’t wear hats, so please enjoy it for me. 
  • Michael Kors Leather Belt: Wide belts are hard to find at the moment and I don’t know why that is. Here’s one in purple with shiny hardware. Size up if you’re wearing it on your hips. 
  • Ralph Lauren Fingerless Driving Gloves: A fun accessory with chunky pullover, oversized vest, jeans and boots. 

I see many shades of purple in my clients’ closets, and a lot less pink. I guess purple is a more widely popular colour. I only have one purple item, a slouchy cashmere pullover. I’m in the minority and bat for Team Pink. Which do you prefer?

Halogen V Neck Cashmere SweaterMendocino Cashmere CardiganPJ Salvage Ski Jammies PajamasTopshop Leopard Sweatshirtkate spade new york tiera wool coatCollection XIIX Wool CapAimee Kestenberg Sammy Crossbody-BagAnne Klein Herringbone Pencil SkirtLauren Ralph Lauren Fingerless Driving Gloves

Culottes for Spring 2014

There were variations on the “split skirt” or culottes theme on the Spring 2014 runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris. Styles were slim fitting, or wide and voluminous. Drapey or stiff. Lengths were above the knee, knee-length, or midi. Patterned, textured or solid. Bright or neutral. Lightweight or heavyweight. Pleated or flat front.  

Take a peek at some of my favourite combinations: 

I’m glad that culotte styles shown here are varied, because there is something for everyone. They’re more practical than flouncy full skirts when the wind blows (no flashing), and make a nice change to trousers and pencil skirts. The wider styles swoosh as you stride, which is an added bonus if you like clothing with movement. And furthermore, some styles require a double-take. Is it a skirt or a pair of pants? That makes it a pretty fun piece. 

Culottes Spring 2014

We have seen culottes as a super fringe trend for a few seasons, and I wonder whether they will gain popularity over the course of the year. It’s anyone’s guess how well they will be received at retail. The slim-fit styles that look more like baggy long shorts have great mainstream possibility to my eye, as do the wider styles with flat fronts. The super wide styles that pleat from the waistband are harder to wear because they pouf out, and are “a lot of culotte”. Chances are high that you will feel larger than you really are in those versions, although thin drapey fabric will help to streamline the silhouette.  

I like culottes. They bring back fond memories of when I wore them in the ’70s and I’d love to add a pair to my wardrobe. The closest I got was a pair of cobalt, slightly wider long shorts, but still, they aren’t real culottes. 

I would like to see culottes go further than a fringe trend because they are very wearable, and provide a change from skinnies, straight legs, pencil skirts and cropped pants, that have been dominating the market for a while. What are your thoughts on culottes? Would you wear them?

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Team Blazer or Team Leather Jacket

You are on Team Blazer if you prefer wearing blazers to leather jackets and vice versa. Note that all styles of blazer and leather jacket count. Blazers can be knitted or woven, shrunken, tailored or oversized, mixed media, patterned or solid, tuxedo, tweed, or plaid. Anything at all. Leather jackets can be moto, aviator, shearling, belted, Chanel-esque, or whatever tickles your fancy. 

I love blazers and leather jackets. I wear both styles of topper as frequently, and virtually throughout the year across different weights to suit the weather. And when it’s really cold, I wear blazers and leather jackets under my coats. 

I cannot choose between these two styles of topper so I’m sitting this one out on the bench with fresh Maine lobster rolls and homemade strawberry frozen yoghurt. Over to you. Are you Team Blazer or Team Leather Jacket? Tell us why and no batting for both teams. 

Patterns and Your Style

I’m attracted to patterned wardrobe items. I enjoy wearing them and buying them because they make my outfits look punchy and alive, which in turn makes me feel alive. I particularly like classic patterns like stripes, checks, polka dots and animal print. I also like romantic florals, and have a thing for animal print footwear. When I wear a solid top and bottom, I will often match it with patterned belt and/or shoe. I love to pattern mix belts with tops. And when I haven’t worn patterns for days, I rectify the situation because I miss wearing them.

At the beginning of the year I stopped purchasing patterned items for a while. I’d overdosed on them. My closet was looking chaotic and I missed seeing enough clean, calm and crisp solids. So for a while I purchased items only in solid colours. I still happily wore patterns, individually and in pattern mixed outfits. I just didn’t buy any new ones. 

I’ve realized that although I love the minimal and simple effect of solids, I also need a fair amount of pattern in my style because it packs a punch and makes me happy. The tricky bit is establishing just the right amount of pattern in my wardrobe. Too few patterns and I miss their lively presence. Too many patterns and I miss the calm serenity of solids. I’m constantly feeling my way on this one. I am aware of my tendency to overdose on patterns, so from time to time I go on a pattern diet. That’s my way of creating the right mix in my closet. 

Working with clients, I’m also very aware that not everyone feels the same way about patterns that I do. And that patterns play a different role in our respective wardrobes. My clients’ approaches to pattern run the gamut. Some won’t wear them at all. Not even in a belt, scarf, bag or shoe. For them, patterns make an outfit less attractive. Other clients don’t feel stylish unless they’re wearing a pattern. For them, patterns are an easy way to make their outfits feel interesting and bold. Some prefer to wear patterns only in footwear and accessories, while others are adventurous pattern mixers and wear multiple patterned pieces daily. 

How does pattern fit into your wardrobe? Do they add or subtract from your style? Note that there is no right and wrong answer. Only a preference that might even change over time.