The Fast Fashion Trade-Off

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Angie is co-founder of YLF and its resident fashion stylist.

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Outfits Ensembles Trends Advice

The Fast Fashion Trade-Off

— by Angie

on January 27, 2015

There was a time when you had to pay an exorbitant price to get the latest fashions from high-end brands. Lower price retailers were more conservative, waiting for trends to prove themselves in the mainstream before bringing them to their ranges. Fast fashion was born when some retailers noticed this hole in the market and realized that they could use modern manufacturing and supply chain technology to deliver new fashions quickly and cheaply.

There is no question that fast fashion adds a whole lot of fun into the equation. Fast fashion stores like Zara, Topshop, H&M and Forever 21 offer exciting, fresh shopping experiences. The latest trends and silhouettes that were once exclusively available to those who could afford designer items, are now accessible to many more people. And even if designer items are within your reach, fast fashion means you can experiment with more trends and find the ones that work by trial and error.

But the benefits of inexpensive fashion that moves quickly from the catwalk to retail does come at a price. Lower price does not always mean lower quality, but it is true that a lot of fast fashion isn’t manufactured to last a long time. And the focus on keeping up with new trends means that even when items have high-quality fabric and construction, they might not be used for longer than a season.

So trendiness and affordability leads to more consumption, which in turn leads to more production, more transportation and a bigger impact on the environment. The “fast” in fast fashion describes not only the time from catwalk to retail, but also the time from wardrobe to landfill.

I love the excitement and fun of fashion. I shop at Zara and Topshop because I enjoy the shopping experience. I like their design sensibilities and their fits work for me. But I’m also conscious of the environmental impact. So I never let my quality standards drop just to have a fashionable item. I pick the better quality pieces in their ranges. Even if I do only wear an item for one season, I want to be able to pass it on in wearable condition. I try to ensure that my items have a second life, whether that is at Goodwill, Dress for Success or in a friend’s wardrobe.

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54 comments · Add a comment

Kaelyn

Veteran

One of my biggest goals for 2015 is to indulge less in lower quality things. I’ve spent so long learning to save money that it’s really hard for me to buy anything at full price that isn’t cheap to begin with. But I’m fed up with things only lasting a couple of seasons. So now I’m focusing on high quality basics and slowly revamping everything. I bought new undergarments already as the first step, and my mom bought me jeans from Torrid for Christmas that I love so much I’m planning on buying another pair or two soon. I’ll still buy the occasional fast fashion thing, but I want to tone my reliance on it way down.

January 27, 2015 at 4:18 am

skylurker

Veteran

Interesting. I’ve bought nothing fast-fashion since my days as penniless student are over. I associate fast fashion with low priced ersatz, I’ve never factored in the fashion-forward nature of the beast.

Anyway, I’m in no hurry to adopt trends. As for the fun in fast fashion shopping…for extroverts only I can’t stand the crowd, the music and the clutter.

January 27, 2015 at 4:31 am

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

As much as I love the thrill of something new, I’m getting more and more worried, too. Two things concern me: The conditions of the workers that produce the goods, and the impact on our environment when we throw it away. I’ve read that the average life span of a wardrobe item is 9 months. That is clearly not a good thing. By picking good quality and buying less one can do something about the latter, but how can we prevent the exploitation of the developing countries’ workers? I don’t have the answer, and I’m not raising fingers at anyone with this. But these are thoughts that clearly are more on my mind now than they used to be.

January 27, 2015 at 4:39 am

Karie

(website)

Veteran

Angie, we are kindred spirits in this area. I also try to pick the better quality pieces from Zara, F21 and the like, and I also pick things that I think will last more than one season. I will throw out a clothing item that is ripped or torn (or cut it up into rags) and everything else gets donated.
Ingunn, thoughts about the conditions of the workers are also on my mind, and other than researching and boycotting certain stores, I don’t have any answers either.

January 27, 2015 at 4:57 am

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Once again I seem to be psychically linked to your posts. I just posted on two coats that have entered my closet recently – one from Zara and one thrifted. Although the vast majority of my clothing is second hand I do like to balance it somewhat with some items “fresh off the presses”. I am involved in every stage of the second hand business at this point, and nothing I wear goes to waste in the sense that I either wear it out, give it away or sell it, but this does not solve the problem of the questionable working conditions or environmental impact of fast fashion.

January 27, 2015 at 5:47 am

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I enjoy shopping at Zara both for the fun and for the fit, which works for me better than many higher priced options. But I share Ingunn’s concerns about working conditions and environmental degradation. I think for myself the solution may be purchasing in very limited amounts from places like this. And researching a little to ensure that safety standards are being met in factories.

January 27, 2015 at 5:52 am

eds

Active Member

I think the occasional fast fashion piece can be as much fun as the occasional indulgent fast food meal. The scary thing is when that fast mentality becomes the way we think. I think the world would be a better place if we concentrated on quality in our lives and then caring for and repairing our belongings. Okay… off the soapbox : )

January 27, 2015 at 5:55 am

Alecia

Veteran

Thanks for this thoughtful post, Angie. This is something that I think a lot about. My shopping speed doesn’t really lend itself to fast fashion regardless, meaning I don’t shop too much so the stuff I buy needs to be able to last for a while. But I’m also very concerned about the more global impacts of my consumption. For that reason, I may never be the most trendy, but I’m ok with that.

January 27, 2015 at 6:11 am

jackiec

Veteran

Another one who enjoys a little fast fashion fix. As much as I’d like to be buying fewer, better quality pieces. I still enjoy shopping itself, and perking up my wardrobe with little hits of fast fashion here and there. Good points raised about working conditions and ethics. A good reminder to do our research to be on top of it. The disaster in Bangladesh last year stopped me in my tracks at Joe Fresh, but I need to keep doing research.

January 27, 2015 at 6:13 am

approprio

(website)

Veteran

There’s a place for inexpensive mass-produced garments, we all need them. But there are definitely problems, environmental degradation and working conditions chief among them.

There’s another problem in that fast fashion has shortened the fashion cycle, putting enormous pressure on haute couture in recent years. Designers are now expected to put out at least four collections a year, sometimes more, just to stay ahead of the game. In an industry dependent on creativity and innovation this is a recipe for exhaustion, burnout and disaster.

The good thing is that there’s now so much variety that just about anyone can find something that works for them, while high street retailers are gradually cleaning up their act and improving quality and working conditions. I’d like to think that the renewed interest in sustainable living will have an impact and the whole production cycle can be improved without sacrificing the wonderful, wearable diversity we have now.

January 27, 2015 at 6:18 am

Thistle

Veteran

It is so hard these days to know what to do or think. I have watched design houses with very high price tags move manufacturing to China. So, paying a high price does not mean social or environmental responsibility.

I am ot an early adopter, and have a more conservative style, so fast fashion has not, to date, played much of an impact in my closet.

Still, I wish there was a way to truly assess all of the factors that go into a garment before buying it. I know it would affect my shopping habits if there were an easy way to tell. Perhaps that’s why there isn’t . . .

January 27, 2015 at 6:22 am

Diana

Veteran

I remember when h&m first opened here. I was a student and for a few years I shopped heavily there. I still pick up a piece or two nowadays – it’s great to be able to try out a new trend without a lot of financial commitment. Like you, I am quite picky about quality. I tend to keep almost everything for multiple seasons, and some of my h&m items have held up for many years.

In general, h&m is my favorite of the fast fashion shops. I like zara styles but the fit is usually off for me, top shop is not in boston, and I think f21 tends to be lower quality in general and I find the store headache-inducing. I prefer to shop fast fashion in person and not online, as for me it’s about trying new things and being spontaneous.

January 27, 2015 at 6:38 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Thanks for your thoughts, ladies.

Skylurker, you have a good sense of humour.

I’m high giving you, Karie.

eds, that would be an ideal solution, but unfortunately not always a practical and accessible one at the moment.

Jackie, “ a little fast fashion fix” is a great way of putting it.

Approprio, that’s an interesting point, and I share your hopes. Designers that are compelled to put out four collections a year inflate their prices at retail level to recover costs, which we end up paying for.

Thistle, you are wise. It’s very hard to do accurate research on the working conditions of factories. You can’t believe everything that you read, and less than optimal working conditions probably occur across the board – from fast fashion to expensive design houses.

Diana, I prefer to shop fast fashion in stores too. It’s part of the experience.

January 27, 2015 at 7:00 am

Eliza

Veteran

Such a thought provoking post, Angie. I do very little fast fashion, in part because of preference and also convenience (no Zara at nearby shopping). I feel better assessing FF pieces in person. I am increasingly focussed on fewer quality items and if I have things that function similarly in my wardrobe, most times the quality piece will be what is worn. That said, I have had quality disappointment across brands and price points.

Some styles I like enough to have at both FF and higher end price points, so I can bop around in the low end version without concern and wear the high end version when the occasion is right.

I don’t jump on every trend, but tried out track pants at a lower price point before springing for the silk ones; it helped to know I could work with that silhouette. Good use of FF and still have both pieces.

Like others, I am concerned about excessive “disposables” and working conditions. I see the fun of FF, but share the cautions. I do tend to pass FF on more quickly.

Interesting to read all the perspectives here.

January 27, 2015 at 7:02 am

Meredith

Active Member

Great post, Angie! Wonderful food for thought!!

January 27, 2015 at 7:16 am

tulle

Veteran

At home in the country most of the time now, I can’t justify spending a lot on clothes. To satisfy my cravings for quality and luxury, I buy the occasional designer jacket or boots on deep discount from online sites like HauteLook or Outnet, and look for well made, once-expensive pieces in thrift shops. (Recycling like this also seems to make good environmental sense.) I buy everyday natural-fabric basics like jeans, tees and sweaters from chains with dependable, hard-wearing goods like The Gap, BR, etc. That leaves a very small corner for Fast Fashion. The idea of adding some edge to my wardrobe is appealing, but I find most of these clothes to be too junior for me, and the stores, as others have mentioned, unbearably chaotic. I have had good luck with Zara online, though; everything I’ve bought from there has been beautiful and carefully packaged.

January 27, 2015 at 8:14 am

Kbfenner

Active Member

I guess I am moving into Slow Fashion. I watch the wardrobes of Scandal, House of Cards, The Good Wife and The Fall, and I want the sort of quality fabrics and construction they have. I love the “twist” on classic tailoring they include, but in my lifestyle, it’s the quality materials that elevate my basics.

January 27, 2015 at 8:20 am

Summer

Veteran

I have never been fashion-forward, so it follows that I’m not really into fast fashion either. I couldn’t bear to buy something, only to throw it out after one season. On the other hand, I can’t afford high-end, designer pieces either, so I suppose I fall somewhere in the middle; I try to find items that will last a few seasons, are of a reasonable quality and that are affordable.

I aim to buy from manufacturers and stores which do not exploit the work-force, although there have been shock revelations sometimes about previously – trusted brands. I think I need to be more thorough in my research on this point.

January 27, 2015 at 8:56 am

merwoman

Veteran

Wonderful post Angie. While I’ve been dabbling in style experimentation over the last few years, I do strive to be a conscientious consumer in everything – fashion, groceries, home etc with respect to how I use my purchase and the conditions under which it was produced. I count on the inspiration I find here at YLF to help me reinvent the lovely wardrobe pieces I have hanging in my closet and keep me current.

January 27, 2015 at 9:04 am

kkards

Veteran

i approach fast fashion the same way i do fast food….with moderation and with care.

January 27, 2015 at 9:25 am

Catnip

Veteran

There is a Zara very near where I live, and I’m always impressed by the appearance of the clothes in the window. When I go into the store and look closely at the clothes, I’m always disgusted by the poor quality of the fabrics and construction. I’ve tried, but I’ve never bought anything there.

My stepson’s wife insists on replacing her entire wardrobe each season and Zara is one of her favorite brands. (Needless to say, my stepson is not happy about this.) She is a very attractive woman, but somehow she just looks… well… cheap.

My approach is to mix it up with one or two pieces of high quality blended with some more ordinary items. Really inexpensive, fast fashion just doesn’t work for me. Maybe it’s just in my head, but fast fashion makes me feel unattractive.

As for the condition of the workers and the effect of fast fashion on the environment, I’m with everyone else who has commented here. Although I’m not always successful, I like to wear a garment until it begins to look worn. Then I know it has served its purpose and can purge it without guilt.

January 27, 2015 at 9:35 am

Murph11

Veteran

For the most part, fast fashion stores feel too young. However, they are perfect for one big part of my everyday need: long-sleeved layering tees.

January 27, 2015 at 9:36 am

barbaraq

Active Member

Everyone should read Dressed to Kill by Elizabeth Cline. Really an eye opener on all aspects of fast fashion worldwide.

January 27, 2015 at 9:48 am

mamark

Active Member

One important aspect of fast fashion is who made that garment? If you’re paying only $15 for a dress or a pair of pants, how much trickled down to the person operating the cutter or the sewing machine. Was that person even an adult?

These issues go hand in hand with environmental issues – companies that are thoughtful about their impact on the environment also tend to be more thoughtful about their workers.

These questions have me buying much less these days, and being more careful about which retailers I buy from when I do buy.

The only way retailers will ever address environmental or labor conditions is if we ask questions like this and don’t blindly buy things because they’re such a great deal.

January 27, 2015 at 10:11 am

gradfashionista

(website)

Veteran

I really enjoyed this post. I’m in the minority who haven’t had much luck with the fast fashion outlets mentioned here, and I gave up trying. Part of it has to do with the fit, part quality, and part preference. I remember visiting Zara for the first time, overseas, right before a major holiday. Utter chaos. What bothered me then wasn’t the disorder, but the number of garments I found on the floor that had obvious defects–ripped seams, missing buttons, broken zippers. It really left an impression.

January 27, 2015 at 10:19 am

Sal

Veteran

Great article here Angie. I am fortunate that most of my fun, statement pieces are purchased off a friend who is a designer who makes them herself. But I do occasionally buy pieces from NZ fast fashion places.

It is easier to turn your eyes away from the costs of fashion to the workers and the environment, but important not to.

January 27, 2015 at 10:30 am

Greyscale

Veteran

Zara clothing spans a wide range of quality and price. When I spot something I really love there, it often turns out to be from one of their higher-priced sections. (This is partly because I only wear natural fibers.) I wonder if those higher-priced things really do last longer and whether they were made in any better conditions than the cheapest things.

I’ve also been thinking about how bad cotton is for the environment, and yet I really prefer cotton over synthetics like modal… I don’t know what the best answer is there, other than to keep buying high quality things and laundering them carefully so they last as long as possible.

January 27, 2015 at 10:57 am

RunningSue

Active Member

Maybe fast fashion and other retailers can be rated the way Wholefood rates their meat, chicken, eggs, etc. Sustainable, farm raised, etc. Just a thought…

January 27, 2015 at 11:05 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

More interesting thoughts.

January 27, 2015 at 11:28 am

Diane G

Thanks for a thought provoking post Angie. I have to say I don’t buy much in the way of fast fashion. I may get one or two pieces per season if that. I have to agree with Murpheleven though…I always get my layering tees from fast fashion retailers.

January 27, 2015 at 11:49 am

shipskitty

Veteran

Interesting post Angies thanks. I love yheblook of fast fashion but I struggle with the idea of regularly buying something for just one season and then passing it on when it is still hardly worn. (I always get ‘purging guilt’ even when I’ve had something for years). I also have found good fabrication of an item is increasingly important to me. So while I do want to look current I am probably on the sidelines for most fast fashion.

January 27, 2015 at 12:20 pm

carrie c

Active Member

My goal is to own a curated wardrobe–pieces that I love and want to keep.I have pieces that are inexpensive/fast fashion, but like many of you I have tried to select carefully.Elizabeth Kline’s book really opened my eyes. I might have a few trendy tops, but mostly I choose pieces to keep. I shop my closet when I can.

January 27, 2015 at 12:55 pm

susanm

Active Member

Yes, thanks for mentioning the environmental and social sustainability aspects of fast fashion. I hope it will make people think twice before buying the latest trend made cheaply, and expecting to replace it in a short time.

January 27, 2015 at 1:22 pm

Dimity

Active Member

We all want to do the right thing, but it is so complicated to know how. It isn’t that we can just say ‘I’ll avoid X brand, because they aren’t environmentally friendly or considerate to workers’, because even reputable brands don’t necessarily know where each zip or button or fabric process happens and how those workers are treated. It’s complex and multi-faceted. People still have to feed their families and there may not be many choices but to work in an exploitative environment or starve.
From the many books and articles I’ve read on this topic, I’ve taken away several points:
We consume too much as a society to be sustainable. It’s just a fact.
This isn’t fair to those who want to live lives like ours but currently don’t.
We will have to lower our standards of living if we are to help make the world a fairer place, but naturally we resist this idea (me too, of course!)
So then we look to other ways to maintain our way of life, such as technological advances to create cleaner energy, which may or may not work to the extent that we need them to.
We never quite fix the problem because society is structurally designed for growth.

This was part of the reason I shopped almost exclusively at second hand shops the last two years; I wanted to see how much I could get off the consuming bandwagon. And it’s possible to some extent, and still maintain a comfortable lifestyle. Basically, the one thing that we can all do to be more environmentally friendly with clothing is to buy less, preferably secondhand, and keep it longer. It isn’t as much fun, but an unsustainable future and all that brings wouldn’t be much fun either.

January 27, 2015 at 2:42 pm

Joy

Veteran

So much to consider. I hate to add something to the landfill when someone might be able to use it. My parents and grandparents used everything and even the last scraps of usable fabric in the old clothes were repurposed in quilts or rag rugs. Socks were darned. The sacks that flour and other supplies came in became aprons, dish towels and children’s clothing. How fast we have moved away from those days.
Even consignment shops don’t want the fast fashion unless it is new with tags and currently in style.

January 27, 2015 at 3:14 pm

gardenchick

Veteran

Some great points. I think fast fashion goes to fast for me…they’re already selling a trend that I haven’t identfied yet. So put me on team Slow Fashion, with others above!

January 27, 2015 at 3:28 pm

Sal

Veteran

Just chiming back in, Dimity and Joy’s comments both struck a chord with me.

We have moved very quickly away from recycling fabrics and household items.

I also like to purge items from time to time and send them to the thrift shop. But how useful they really are is hard to gauge….it feels better than cutting them into rags or sending to landfill but it may not always be.

January 27, 2015 at 3:46 pm

Vicki

(website)

Veteran

What wise, contemplative women we have here in seeing the big picture. I think I’ve slowed down on gobbling up fast fashion tastes or I’ve had my fill for now. There was a time when I would scurry in to F21 or H&M, but I no longer do. Not only do I want to take time thinking what I’m bringing home, I also want to consider how my actions (where I buy, how much do I need, etc.) come into play. There’s a lot to reflect on here and I recall OOB Ashley’s words about “throw away clothes” and that’s another powerful concept.

January 27, 2015 at 4:20 pm

Style Fan

Veteran

I have moved into Slow Fashion. I carefully buy pieces that I think will be in my wardrobe for a long time. I am willing to spend a lot for items because I don’t plan to replace them. I try to buy clothing that is made in Canada, USA or Europe. No always but most of the time.
I go into places like Zara just to get an idea of what is happening but I have never bought anything there.

January 27, 2015 at 4:27 pm

Carole

Veteran

I used to be completely turned off by fast fashion…It’s easy to get overwhelmed with the stuffed shelves and racks but if I go looking for something specific I find I have pretty good luck and am able to overcome tfashion ADD. I have a few favorite pieces that have held up well and look like I spent much more than I did!

January 27, 2015 at 5:52 pm

Anne

It makes me so sad we never seem to have enough ,while we have so much more than enough !

January 27, 2015 at 7:11 pm

Debbie

Veteran

I have been thinking a lot about this lately. Do I really need x number of whatever it is. I want to be more conscious of what I buy but I want to look current to. It is a fine line with concern for the environment and the workers.
I will still go to Zara but I will try and be careful about what I buy.

January 27, 2015 at 8:08 pm

Dimity

Active Member

Anne: so true!

I think one of the reasons I appreciate this website so much is that it helps people (like me) who love clothes to be more considered and thoughtful in what we buy. We not only end up with better wardrobes that are much more useful, but we act more responsibly as citizens of the world in the process. Thank you, Angie and Greg.

January 28, 2015 at 2:17 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Thanks for the thoughts, ladies.

Dimity, your kind words did not go unnoticed. Many thanks for the YLF support. xo

January 28, 2015 at 6:24 am

eds

Active Member

Angie, I was curious about your response to my comment about trying to choose quality and then caring for and repairing our belongings. Why would that not be practical or accessible?

January 28, 2015 at 10:31 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

eds, choosing quality, caring for, and repairing our belongings is first prize. Time – another currency – is unfortunately at a forever shortage, which makes taking the fast approach easier and more practical. It takes time and effort to shop responsibly. It takes time and effort to launder items and have them fixed. Another trade-off. Hope that makes sense.

January 28, 2015 at 10:39 am

eds

Active Member

I do think the concept of shopping responsibly is really overwhelming and I really don’t put a lot of effort into it for that reason. But shopping takes a good bit of time and effort, too, and I don’t understand why being careful about how you launder something or simple mending is more time consuming. It just seems the whole throw away mentality has become so pervasive. Even major appliances are not built to last anymore… I recently had to replace a 2 year old washing machine as the repair would have cost as much as a new one. The repairman told me literally ALL of the newer high efficiency machines without the agitator wouldn’t last more than a few years and the manufacturers knew that. I really don’t mean to bash anyone’s purchases or decisions about when or where to shop… sorry if it came across that way!

January 28, 2015 at 11:06 am

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

eds, not to worry. We are all here to learn and have our thoughts and judgements challenged. Mine top of the list. Helping clients with their style has opened my eyes and mind enormously. What is worth your time, may not be the case for others. Trying to find optimal solutions is always top of the list, and these solutions vary greatly.

January 28, 2015 at 11:14 am

Kirstjen

Veteran

I am trying to buy fewer pieces, buying better quality. I tend to be a bit of a minimalist & I’ve always thought that quality shows more when there is less detail, so paying extra for nice, straight, flat seams, good buttons, good buttonholes, and frankly even quality fabric has always been worth it to me. I have to say that I’ve been concerned about sweatshop conditions, employment of my neighbors (buying as local as I can) as well, which means that I look for the “Made in the US” label. I’m also trying to recognize that I have ENOUGH and don’t need to rework my wardrobe completely at every season. This is an ongoing challege for me – the whole NEEDS vs WANTS thing. I am a work in progress!

January 28, 2015 at 12:43 pm

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Ah yes. The whole needs versus wants scenario. Like I said it the post – it’s all a trade-ff.

January 28, 2015 at 1:04 pm

CocoLion

(website)

Veteran

I have been thinking about this post for a few days. It is a complicated issue, and my opinions have run the gamut. Ranging from:

– Buy only USA-made clothing. (Lasted around 9 months, until it was time to buy a sweater again.)
– Buy only from certain brands who have passed a level of environmental integrity, regardless of where clothing is made.
– Buy only higher-end brands for longer lasting clothing.
– Buy only fast fashion, because half of the higher end clothing I purchased didn’t hold up well.
– Buy only recognizable brands with a following on eBay (!) because that way I can recoup money/find item a new home if the item doesn’t work for me.

Well I hope you get a chuckle from this list because I do. I suppose where I’ve landed is to incorporate a bit of all of these consumption strategies into my shopping. And yes I do repair beloved pieces such as sweaters and shoes. As for shopping less, yes, that is one way to go. But (devil’s advocate) while you might not have to worry about sweat shop conditions, you might also be removing jobs.

January 29, 2015 at 6:35 pm

Clueless in canada

Active Member

The markup on all clothing is horrendous. I think i sometimes expect better quality for the price i pay, but the i see the item 50 and 60 percent off just weeks later. So i think that price is for getting it first, not getting better quality. Stores like h&m just get there faster. I have lots of things ( including the moto jacket in the photo) that i have bought there that i have been very happy with. I like their blouses very much, also skinny jeans.
Zara, not so much.

January 31, 2015 at 4:24 pm

Lisa

(website)

Member

I love the tag line in Baker Furniture’s ads (in high-end shelter magazines): “The art of things chosen well rather than often.” I’m applying that to fashion!

February 1, 2015 at 9:29 am

Mac

Veteran

My son’s wardrobe includes quite a bit of PriMark and Zara. As a toddler, he stains and rips practically everything he wears, no matter the quality.

December 16, 2015 at 12:04 am

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