Short, boxy, collarless, “Chanel-esque” tweed jackets like the first two styles shown below are not an easy style to wear. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve fitted the silhouette onto clients, only to return it to the rack immediately because it wasn’t that flattering.
I have found though, that body types with short necks and broad square shoulders generally wear collarless jackets extremely well, and therefore stand a better chance at making this style of topper work. It’s harder to generalize about the bust because I’ve seen an assortment of sizes fit the bill, especially when the front of the jacket is left open. Furthermore, collarless jackets tend to work a whole lot better on a longer neck with long hair that is left down, thereby adding structure to the neck and shoulder-neck point.
If you like the idea of wearing a fairly short, collarless tweed jacket, but can’t seem to make proportions work, try a variation on the style like one of the four silhouettes below. These shapes seem to create flattering lines on many more of my clients. The silhouettes are more tailored and a little longer, which makes all the difference on most body types. Showcasing a little shape is conventionally flattering, and the increased length prevents the body from looking “chopped in half” or overly short waisted. Some of the necklines are more structured on the shoulder and around the neck, which makes the rest of the jacket drape better on the body. Wearing a column of colour underneath the topper has a further flattering effect.
I don’t mind the boxy part of this type of topper, but I look dreadful in widely cut collarless style jackets because I have a long neck, short hair and narrow shoulder line. But as soon as there is a “Mandarin collar” cut closely to my neck, the silhouette looks a whole lot better. The added coverage on my shoulder-neck point is the necessary structuring ingredient that makes all the difference.
Do you wear boxy, collarless jackets? If you don’t like them boxy, will you wear them sans a collar? Or have you found the Chanel-esque tweed jacket hard to fit, full stop.