The Triple “P” Purchasing Principle

Forum member Transcona Shannon recently asked me whether I’ve purchased wardrobe items that ended up being a mistake. You can read my full reply on her thread, but in short my answer was “of course!” I’ve purchased plenty of uncomfortable shoes, knitted tops and cardigans that I just don’t wear, and orphaned jewelry pieces. 

These days I make fewer mistakes, but that’s only because I’ve had lots of practice at formalizing the wardrobe purchasing process. After all, this is my line of work. Twenty years of experience in the rag trade has helped me focus on my style goals, which has in turn helped me focus on purchasing the right wardrobe pieces. And I am still learning. I think about my wardrobe purchases more carefully than ever, and am mindful when my emotions take over. Yes, I can fall in love with an extremely impractical piece that I would never wear. When that happens I have to shake myself out my dream world and move onto something else that both lights my fire AND that would actually suit my lifestyle in the real world. 

Over the years I’ve learned to minimize my wardrobe mistakes by applying three rules to the purchasing process. They all happen to start with the letter “P”, so I’m calling it the Triple P Purchasing Principle.

Be Patient

I can’t stress this point enough. Years can go by before I find that very specific item on my shopping list. I am an extremely impatient person with most things in life, but I’m patient when it comes to building my wardrobe. It was years before I found the right slouchy trousers that were regular length and not cropped above the ankle. It was years before I found the right knee-length red coat. I have only just found the perfect low heeled red shoes for my fussy feet, and an animal print clutch handbag. Patience pays off. 

Be Picky

If something doesn’t fit, or can’t be affordably altered to fit, it does not follow me home. If the colour or style of an item is just slightly off in my mind, it does not follow me home. If the garment aggravates my skin and nose, or hurts my feet, it does not follow me home. If the item is outside my budget, it does not follow me home. For the most part, if an item is not in line with my current style goals, it does not follow me home. But our style goals are not set in stone so I’m less picky with that one. 

Be Practical

I have an impractical side to my style that will probably never change. I frequently sport white and cream outerwear, footwear and handbags because I LOVE the look. But I’m a practical dresser in all other respects. I don’t wear clothing that makes me fidget during the day, nor do I carry a heavy handbag. I don’t wear bootcuts when it’s pouring with rain. I don’t wear footwear that slows me down or aggravates my feet, and I bundle up when it’s cold. As much as I like to wear sheer blouses, sleeveless tops, and soft dresses, I have learned NOT to purchase too many of these wardrobe darlings because I run cold and can only wear them during our warm weather months. Sure, I can layer these items to keep warm, but I prefer not to layer over them all the time. 

And here’s the flip side to this principle. It can also be counter productive when taken to the extreme. It’s possible to be too patient, picky and practical, and end up with nothing in your wardrobe! Finding a balance is key. 

Interestingly, I have never regretted purchasing my pricier wardrobe pieces, which have often been bought at full price. It’s the less expensive stuff that I could probably do without. This is the danger of letting your guard down for an apparent bargain. Be just as discerning with items that are on sale. 

How patient, picky and practical are you about the items that you purchase for your wardrobe? Do you have other suggestions on how to ensure that your purchases count?

Team Plaid or Team Stripe

I’m continuing the all important Spring 2012 theme of patterns with this poll. Previously you had to choose between the quintessential Stripe and Polka Dot. This time, we’re taking out the dots and adding in the plaid (or “checks” as I am used to calling this kind of pattern).

You are on Team Stripe if you prefer stripes to plaid. They can be any form of stripe, from subtle pinstripes and narrow low colour contrasting stripes, to wide and bold jailbird and rugby stripes. You are on Team Plaid if you prefer plaid to stripes. It can be any form of plaid, from ginghams and houndstooth, to Glen plaids (also known as the Prince of Wales check), tartan and Madras. Note that plaid used to mean something very specific, but these days people use it for almost any checked pattern and I’m doing that here.

Although I adore crisp pinstripes and jailbird stripes, I like plaid even more. I guess I like squares and blocks! I’ve always loved houndstooth, gingham and tartan in both neutral and bright colours. I also enjoy wearing Glen plaid trousers. I am on Team Plaid.

Over to you. Are you on Team Plaid or Team Stripe? Tell us why and no batting for both teams. 

Four Patterns for Easy Pattern Mixing

Pattern Mixing, in both novice and advanced forms is so very on trend. If you’re battling with the bold concept, but would like to give it a try, here are four patterns that are relatively easy to mix and match with other patterns, namely a stripe, a polka dot, a plaid and an animal print. 

In these visuals, the floral skirt is the dominant pattern, while the others are the supporting patterns. If you keep the supporting patterns two-toned and within the same colour palette as the dominant pattern, they’ll be easier to mix together.

Stripe

Polka Dot

Plaid

Animal Print

Of course, keeping both patterns in the same colour palette is just one way to mix patterns. Here’s an example of a supporting pattern, the green plaid, that’s still two-toned, but it’s not in the same colour palette as the dominant floral. In my book, this is a more advanced, fashion-forward form of pattern mixing, that totally works. Although it might not be your cup of tea.

Personally, I don’t do a lot of pattern mixing because the effect is maximal and my style is about a more minimal look. That being said, in the name of trendy fashion fun, I thorougly enjoy wearing subtle forms of pattern mixing, like the outfit I wore on New Year’s Day, and will even throw in the odd maximal look from time to time. 

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Defining your Style Goals by What they are NOT

This morning I wrote about describing your style persona, which involved coming up with two lists of adjectives. One that describes your current style and another that describes the style you aspire to achieve. Sometimes it is hard to come up with these adjectives. When this is the case, my clients have found it useful to think about adjectives that do NOT describe the style they aspire to achieve. 

Try having a stab at this yourself. Start off by jotting down thoughts on the types of looks, vibes and styles that are not right for you on this leg of your style journey. Then narrow it down to five to ten adjectives. I’ll use myself as an example. I do not aspire to a style that is:

  • Bohemian
  • Bombshell
  • Casual
  • Maximal
  • Neutral 
  • Romantic
  • Rough Around The Edges (RATE)

Style is a celebration of individuality, so our lists will probably look quite different. That’s brilliant because there is no one way to be stylish. Your style begins and ends with a strong sense of self, and that’s the most important thing. 

Describing Your Style Persona

Over the years I’ve written about the topic of fashion personas more than once. The subject comes up frequently with my clients and forum members. Lots of ladies feel that they don’t fit into any of the personas I’ve suggested, OR, they fit into different ones at different times, perhaps depending on their mood. This makes perfect sense. Don’t ever feel that you have to box yourself into one persona exactly as it is defined. It’s also perfectly fab to dress in a bohemian style one day, a preppy look the next, and a classic vibe the week after that. This chameleon integrity merely becomes part of your style. 

The fashion personas are there to serve as a starting point. If you look through style books, browse through magazines, and read fashion blogs, you’ll find many more fashion personas that aren’t included on my list. Tough Chic, Romantic Eclectic, Urban Warrior Princess, Preppy, Punk, Androgynous, Tomboy, Retro Princess, Steam Punk just to name a few. It isn’t essential to familiarize with all of these personas, but it can inspire your own style, and it can be fun. They also serve as a common frame of reference that makes it easier to communicate with others about your style or the style that you aspire to.

Fashion personas aside, it’s often easier to describe your current style and the style you aspire to achieve in your own words. This is an essential exercise that I do with my clients at the start of a style renewal or a style refresher because it breaks things down in the simplest way. First, jot down whatever thoughts come to mind about your current style, then try to isolate the key adjectives. Do the same for the style you aspire to, and try to whittle it down to five to ten adjectives for each of them. It is great if fashion personas are among the adjectives, but feel free to use whatever adjectives describe your style the best. 

To illustrate I’m going to use a fictional client, who I will call Daisy. Here are the adjectives that describe Daisy’s current style persona:

  • Bohemian
  • Earthy
  • Neutral
  • Arty
  • Maximal
  • Romantic
  • Casual
  • Playful

Here are the adjectives that describe the style persona she aspires to achieve:

  • Earthy
  • Arty
  • Neutral
  • Romantic
  • Tailored
  • Authoritative

Daisy clearly wants to build onto some of the aspects of her current style as she moves onto the next leg of her style journey. The Earthy and Romantic parts mean that Daisy will probably continue to wear Bohemian inspired pieces. But the new Tailored and Authoritative aspects mean that she’ll also explore Classic Style and perhaps add in a few pieces that she can wear in an Arty way. 

As Daisy moves through her style refresher, she will continuously realign her dressing and purchasing decisions with her style goals. And while staying focused on the goals is key, there is always room to adjust them. In the process of cleaning her closet or shopping for new items Daisy might rethink some of her aspirations, or she might find a part of her current style that she overlooked. If this happens she can just adjust the goals and keep moving.

Not everyone will do this exercise explicitly. For some it will be completely intuitive. For others, taking the time to think about these things and writing them down will be an essential part of keeping them focused. It will give them direction, save them frustration and ultimately, probably even save them money as they make fewer purchases that get more wear. The reason it is essential for all of my clients is partly because I need to understand their goals.

Having done the exercise, you might find that there is very little difference between your current style persona and the one you aspire to achieve. If so, good job! That means you’ve internalized your style goals and can merrily continue on your current path.

If you like, have a quick stab at this exercise in the comments below. Jot down adjectives that describe your current style, then do the same for the style you aspire to achieve. How different are the two lists?