Joanna Mastroianni’s Tribute to Iris Apfel

Interior designer and fashion icon Iris Apfel was the inspiration for this designer’s collection. Iris herself sat front row and I had to do a double take when I realized it was her. WOW. This is such a meaningful message. We live in a fashion and style world that is obsessed with youth. Yet a designer who shows at New York Fashion Week makes a 91 year old fashionista her style muse. That’s brilliant. 

Joanna Mastroianni’s designs are based on Iris Apfel’s flamboyant, colourful and theatrical style. If you’ve seen photos of Iris, you’ll instantly pick up on the similarities. For example, Iris wears a lot of black with brights like red, emerald green and peacock blue. She also wears metallics like copper, bronze, gold and pewter, all of which we saw in the collection.  

The first thing that pops into my head when I think of Iris’s style are her oversized specs. After that, I think of A-line high-necked smock-type toppers with kimono sleeves and turned back cuffs in luxurious fabrications. She often pairs these arty jackets with slim cut brocade trousers and extremely dramatic shoes. So it was fun to see the designer’s interpretation of this style of jacket and cigarette pant on the runway. 

Iris’s style is also very texture rich. Feathers often feature in her outfits as a trim as do fabrics like organza, embossed leather and crushed velvet. Mastroianni used these signature Iris looks in her collection and the result was effective.  

My favourite outfit of the range was a pair of bright red, slim cut brocade trousers matched with a halter neck tunic. I’m really enjoying the idea of wearing a bright colour from head to toe instead of breaking it up with a neutral or alternative colour. I have a yearning for a brightly coloured trouser suit. 

What also struck me about the collection was Mastroianni’s accessory-free approach to her outfits. Iris Apfel wears many, many accessories at once. Lots of colourful layered necklaces, bangles and cocktail rings, along with her gigantic geek chic specs. Models sported a pair of dramatic gloves from time to time but that was it. I enjoyed the more refined and minimal approach of the collection. 

The end of this show was very moving. One of the models was holding a Pomeranian as they all came back onto the catwalk for the finale. This may have been Iris’s little doggie, but I’m not sure. The audience applauded heavily as the models walked off the runway. Joanna Mastroianni walked on and headed straight for Iris in the front row. Iris stood up and with the help of a cane walked onto the catwalk with the designer. By this time the models and the cute Pomeranian had returned to the runway, and they backed Iris and the designer like a protective army. The whole audience was on their feet and photographers were going crazy as Mastroianni and Iris slowly walked arm in arm to the runway entrance, followed by their army of models. The whole sequence was accompanied by a roar of applause. I reached for my tissues.

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Fashion Week Day 5: Winter White with Love

We managed to get away from the hustle and bustle of fashion week and stroll through Central Park, which is where these photos were taken. The weather was a lot milder and the sun peeked through too. We were both relieved to enjoy a bit of peace and quiet.

I tire of wearing black several days in a row, so changing things up was in order. It was Valentine’s Day, and I couldn’t think of anything more fitting than wearing my jodhpur jeans. Greg loves them, and I love my sweetie. 

The rest of the outfit was also inspired by Greg. He really likes my Winter white and taupe turtleneck. The white leather jacket was his gift several birthdays ago so that went over as the next layer. Personally, I like the effect of mixing together several shades of white, but do understand that it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. 

I finished off the look with animal print belt and booties because the earth tones are softer than adding them in black. However, I did add a black bag because the off white bag I also brought along to NYC was just too much of the same. I chose my dark wide catseye specs because they create a nice contrast with the Winter white tops. I kept my hands warm with the same black leather gloves. 

No need for a puffer coat that day so it was back to wearing my bright red wool coat. There have been several questions on our forum about whether it’s okay to wear leather jackets under coats. Clearly I am a fan of layering in this way because it keeps me warm, AND because the outfit still has the structured integrity of a jacket when I remove the coat. That’s why you have to make sure that you can layer correctly when you purchase a coat. 

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Carlos Miele’s Sassy Elegance

I was looking forward to this show and it did not disappoint. I LOVED it, and wanted to see it all again as soon as it was over. I had an amazing seat that was near the runway entrance. I could see the designs up close as well as a bit of behind the scenes action. Carlos Miele stands by the entrance of the runway and personally checks each model before they go on stage. He smiles and says something to them too. Hmmm. I wonder what he utters to each of his models? 

The collection shows Miele’s characteristic love for luxurious fabrications, impeccable drape, classic cuts, modern edge and design refinement. As the first model walked down the runway in a poncho and Gaucho hat (think Zorro), I knew that this was going to be a killer show. This was followed by gals draping gigantic fur wraps across their bodies. So dramatic! The glossy cascading curls of the models that bounced to the beat of the Latin music was especially effective. 

For the most part Miele stuck to neutrals like black, cream, taupe, camel and gold. There were also vivid bursts of chartreuse, burnt orange, red, purple and a gorgeous dark turquoise. Fabrications were both soft and semi soft. Silks, chiffons, satins, crepes, wool and cashmere were what I could spot from my seat, and there were leather trims aplenty. 

As with most of the runway shows I’ve seen this season, silhouettes are both structured and voluminous. There were superb waist defining styles throughout this collection — the wide wrap around leather belt and sash belt being features. But we also saw unstructured ponchos, boxy blouses, long full skirts and slouchy trousers. Personally, I love this juxtaposition of sleek and roomy. 

Thank you Carlos Miele for putting sleeves on some of your dresses and for giving us extra hem lengths. Knee-lengths, midis and dressy maxi styles are just fine by me. I adored the cropped bolero jackets that accompanied the dresses.Their subtle shoulder pad was divine and their embellishment luxe. I also loved the belted jackets that accompanied the formal maxi skirts. That’s how to dress down a formal look with sass. 

I’m pants-crazy at the moment so the tapered, slouchy and high-waisted trouser ensembles were my favourite outfits here. The model wearing the black trousers with the turquoise blouse was my favourite look of the lot. The lace-up detailing along the lower leg was fabulous, as were the pleats and tucked-in roomy blouses. And heeled booties, booties and more booties. There is no stopping this footwear trend. 

Carlos Miele is also known for his magnificent evening gowns. Again, printed formal frocks are making a strong dressy statement alongside their solid friends. I’m loving the bolero jackets as updated gown cover-ups and day time jackets. How wonderful to see such a beautifully Spanish-Brazilian inspired collection.

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Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Fashion Week Day 4: Classic Modern

After a day of schoolboy fun, I felt like wearing a frock. I also felt like pulling together classic pieces as opposed to trendy items. We were going to see one of our favourite shows — Carlos Miele — so glitzing it up was the right thing to do. 

These photos were taken inside the main tent at Lincoln Centre so that we didn’t have to freeze our buns off outside. Mercedes Benz is the main sponsor of New York Fashion Week, so there is always a huge Mercedes Benz display inside the tent. Greg wanted to use the dramatic white display as the backdrop for my black outfit, and I loved that idea. 

Yesterday was our busiest day so I needed to be extra comfy. The form fitting black knitted midi dress was both a great and an awful idea. The good news is that it’s soft and stretchy, and therefore comfortable. But it also picked up every particle of lint at fashion week, which drove me up the wall. Eventually I had no choice but to resign myself to being a big lint fest. 

I layered a white button down shirt under the dress “tuxedo style” to soften the effect of the black. I scrunched the sleeves and turned back the cuffs for textural interest. Polka dot hose add a fun element to the classic dress. The low heeled red pumps were a Christmas present from Greg, and this is their third outing. I can’t be more pleased with them because they are bright red, dainty and feel great on my feet. I switched to my gold wedding ring and watch to match my late Mum’s medallion. I chose black retro specs to work with the fairly refined outfit. The animal print clutch was the final patterned addition. 

It was still very cold and walking back and forth between Lincoln Centre and our hotel requires extra insulation. Thermal undies, a pair of nude hose layered underneath the polka dots, knee-length black puffer and gloves ensured a toasty commute.

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Custo Barcelona’s Dramatic Embellished Creations

It is always fun to watch the models take Custo Barcelona’s over the top creations through their paces down the runway. It’s a colourful show in every respect and you can’t help but be captivated. Greg was particularly fond of the heavy alternative rock that accompanied this show. It put the audience in the right mood and complemented the designs in just the right way. 

Custo Barcelona’s designs are entirely opposite to the minimal style that I aspire to. That being said, I can thoroughly appreciate these creative and maximal outfits. They are thoughtfully designed and somehow there is cohesion amidst the chaos of colour, silhouette, texture, pattern and fabrication. I also enjoyed the more subtle ’70s flavour of the collection.

The colour palette was earthy, along with lots of black, cream and grey, purple, red, bright green, turquoise and metallic. Earth tones are making quite a strong statement so far, with rich rust becoming the Fall version of oh-so-on-trend Spring orange. 

Silhouettes were both tailored and voluminous, which seems to be another strong trend on the runways this season. Custo Barcelona’s hemlines are usually short so it comes as no surprise that midis and maxis did not feature. These highly detailed garments look best when they are short in my book. They would loose their cheeky appeal if they were longer. 

We saw every conceivable trim on these garments. From zippers and buttons, to cording, studs, fringe, netting, crochet, fur, ribbon, brocade, piping, sequins, badges, beading, and eyelets. Getting as much embellishment onto the garments as possible is the Custo Barcelona look. There was also quite a bit of patchwork and colour blocking to heighten the maximal effect. 

There was also no shortage of fabric variety. Leather, velvet, suede, tweed, denim, cotton, wool, houndstooth, plastic, silk and jersey knit are the ones that I could spot, but I’m sure that’s just the tip of the iceberg. The messy hairstyles of the lady models worked well with the chaotic outfits, as did the mid-calf and knee-high lace up boots. 

The men’s outfits were my favourite part of the collection just because their ensembles were more clean-cut. Their matching suits are signature Custo, and a vibe that makes me smile. I loved the patterned trousers on these blokes. It’s fun to see menswear climbing onto the ladieswear trend band wagon, don’t you think?

In real life, one Custo Barcelona garment at a time is probably a lot more wearable than the full ensemble, especially when matched with a pair of basic jeans or tapered trousers. Add in a more regular hairstyle and simpler footwear, and you’ve toned down the look even more. So really, these designs are not as over the top as you might think. Could you see yourself wearing any of this collection? If not, can you appreciate the creative maximal look on someone else?

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