Book Club: Vidal Sassoon and the Luxury Goods Industry

This Fall we’re organizing YLF Book Club a little differently. Instead of selecting the books and movies for an entire season all in one go, we will pick two titles at a time. This leaves more room for improvisation, and makes it easier to add new, yet to be published titles that could prove to be a great fit.

Some YLF readers have chimed in with brilliant suggestions, and I too have discovered quite a few style-related treasures over the Summer months. I can’t wait to get chatting again, and I hope you’ll join us later this month when we continue our Book Club discussions with an insightful documentary about a legendary hairstyling pioneer and a thought-provoking book that explores the world of the luxury goods industry:

28 September: Vidal Sassoon The Movie

Vidal Sassoon pioneered in the 1960s with his geometric, Bauhaus-inspired hairstyle (the wedge bob) and the famous five point cut, creating distinctive styles for stars like Mia Farrow, Nancy Kwan and Peggy Moffitt. He was a self-made man who turned his Bond Street shop into a worldwide franchise and built a hugely successful business empire around haircare products. Sassoon revolutionized the art of hairstyling with his “wash and wear” philosophy that liberated women from the tyranny of the salon, and left an indelible mark on popular culture. This documentary offers a look into the public and private life of the legendary hairdresser who is said to have changed the world with a pair of scissors.

2 November: Deluxe – How Luxury Lost Its Luster

Once upon a time luxury goods were only available to the very rich. They offered a history of tradition, superior quality, and an exclusive buying experience. Today, luxury is simply just another product sold by multibillion-dollar global corporations focussed on growth, visibility, brand awareness, advertising, and, above all, profits. In this book fashion journalist Dana Thomas puts luxury in a historical context and explores the dark side of the industry to answer questions such as: What is the new definition of luxury when advertising for this lifestyle is targeted mainly toward the mass market? What are we paying for when quality has given way to quantity? Can integrity survive in a corporate culture driven by growth and profit? And is luxury still the best that money can buy?

Quick reminder: On the Book Club page you can find the schedule of previous, current and future Book Club titles.

Three Wardrobe Capsule Archetypes

Whether it’s an intuitive process or something that you analyze at great length, creating capsules is an excellent way to maintain wardrobe discipline. I define a wardrobe capsule as ANY collection of clothing, footwear and accessories that helps you to satisfy your dressing needs in one or more areas of your life. 

Wardrobe capsules are merely a tool that helps you to break your wardrobe into manageable chunks. By saying “any collection…”, the definition is intentionally broad because there are many different ways to group items. That said, in the course of working with many different clients I have found that three kinds of wardrobe capsule are very common. Understanding them might make it a little easier to apply the capsule concept when you next edit and review your wardrobe.

Mix & Match Capsules 

These capsules are built around a colour palette and made up of items that can be mixed and matched into several outfits. They can be dressy or casual, large or small, neutral or colour-rich. Mix and match capsules are about wardrobe efficiency, helping you to get the maximum outfit variety from a given number of items. Earlier this year I wrote about a mix and match work wear capsule. I later wrote about a more compact work wear capsule that is based on fewer items. 

Category Capsules

This kind of capsule is made up of only ONE wardrobe item category. For example you can have a coat capsule, a leather jacket capsule, a bootie capsule, a sandal capsule, a scarf capsule, a skirt capsule, a jeans capsule, a knitwear capsule or a jacket capsule. Any wardrobe item category can be thought of as a capsule. This type of group analysis keeps your lifestyle and style needs in check, and helps you to identify wardrobe holes as they appear. Primarily, category capsules help you to answer “do I have enough [insert item here]” questions. They also help you address the level of variety within the category, and whether this variety supports your style.

Activity Capsules

Each of these capsules satisfies your wardrobe needs in a very specific setting that isn’t part of your everyday lifestyle. For example, you might have a date night capsule, a camping capsule, a formal wear capsule, a beachwear capsule, a loungewear capsule, a hiking capsule, a music concert capsule, or a capsule for extra hot weather. Activity capsules ensure that you have the right wardrobe items for an important setting or activity that isn’t always top of mind. 

Remember that an item can be used across multiple capsules. A trench coat, for example, can be part of several mix and match capsules, and your coat capsule. A zebra printed blouse can be part of your Black & White work wear capsule, a smart casual weekend capsule, and your blouse capsule. 

Wardrobe capsules force you to think of items and outfits in groups, which means analyzing how the items work together and relate to each other. The “group think” is key to creating an efficient and cost effective wardrobe full of fabulous outfit possibilities for every aspect of your life. And for most of us, this is THE wardrobe goal.

Link Love: Designers Love their Pets

It’s no secret that Vogue icon Grace Coddington adores all her cats. Now one of her feline companions, Pumpkin, is immortalized in the new accessories line she has created for Balenciaga.

From treats and toys to grooming products, in this adorable feature five fashion designers share their pets best picks

The San Francisco Umbrella Company has come out with a colourful series of umbrellas featuring silhouettes of eleven popular dog breeds and one cat. And yes, there’s a cute Yorkie umbrella in there too!

Fab Links from Our Members

Vildy is fascinated by how light conditions can seem to change the colours that are more flattering on a person.

Tales of Endearment’s photo reportage about 48 hours spent in Venice made RoseandJoan daydream of wispy Summer dresses and a nice sea breeze. She especially loves the two ladies on the dock. I agree, look at them rocking their floral frocks.

Mo says that J over at J’s Everyday Fashion shops on a budget but always manages to look pulled together and chic. The blogger’s post about how not to look cheap inspired Mo to go out and buy that striped silk shirt for herself.

Laurinda recommends this DIY tutorial on how to use plants from your garden for sun printing on fabric and then sew a simple dress.

Look at how well this redhead bookends her low-heeled shoes with her gorgeous long locks, it’s a killer casual outfit in Angie’s book.

Recently Ingunn bought a pair of booties from Italian footwear brand Pantanetti, and was struck by the craftsmanship, the timeless designs and the quality of their products.

Jonesy enjoyed reading the thought-provoking post “Blinded by the Label” on The Man Repeller, and adds that the comments are definitely worth a look as well.

We’ve been discussing wardrobe essentials on the YLF blog and forum, and Geargirl points us to this great visual for a “mom-on-the-go” essentials list. She also thought it funny that while Angie refers to these items as “essentials”, people often call them “basics” too.

Ginkgo discovered Modewalk, a website that wants to introduce you to French designers as if you’ve strolled into their boutiques by sharing their creative stories, inspiration boards and design sketches.

Joy says the “Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations” exhibition at the Met is brilliant, and encourages everyone to explore all the images and video and audio files on the website.

Although it can be seen as the natural progression from heavily Photoshopped images, Rae is a bit surprised and concerned that more companies are using virtual models. She wonders if she is the only one who wants to know how clothes look on real bodies.

Shevia found this NY Times article about getting bolder with age interesting. Perhaps with the economy causing younger people to struggle, older people are the ones that can afford to be rebels?

Last but not least, Desmo April loved this profile of Stéphanie Zwicky, an amazing plus-size blogger based in Paris.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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The Scarf-Bag-Bootie Complement For Fall

scarf, a handbag and pair of booties that can be worn together is an easy way to pull together an outfit for Autumn. That’s why I call the combination a “complement”. Add the scarf-bag-bootie complement to the simplest of ensembles and it instantly adds flare, personality and pop to your look. 

I’ve created two complements around different colour palettes and dress codes. Adding in simple pieces that provide the backdrop to the complement is all that’s left to complete the outfit. 

Casual Black, White & Metallic SBB Complement

I’ve chosen a black and white patterned scarf, black studded crossbody bag, and — as a nod to this season’s Space Age trend — silver Dr. Martens boots. Wear this complement over a long sleeved t-shirt or scoop neck blouse with jeans or cropped pants. Wear it over a casual dress. Or a V-neck sweater and denim skirt. 

Dressy Earthtones SBB Complement

I’ve chosen a lace printed scarf in spice tones, an on-trend, small animal printed bag, and high heeled colour blocked booties. Wear this complement over a blouse and pencil skirt for the office. Wear it over a sheath dress. Wear it over a fitted or oversized sweater and tapered trousers. Or dress it down with a tee and jeans. 

Choose a scarf-bag-bootie complement that’s in line with your colour and style preferences. Choose solids, patterns or colour blocked items. Some complements will be dressy and others will be casual. 

The complement can also be thought of as a small capsule because the items work together, AND because they can be worn with different “backdrop” outfits. Pack a scarf-bag-bootie complement for short trips and merely change out the backdrop outfit each day. You’ll have an assortment of pulled together looks for your trip that will probably fit into a carry-on size bag.

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Fab Find: Vince Camuto Elmay Pump

If you like to wear three inch wedges, Vince Camuto’s Elmay Pump might be for you. It’s comfortable! The cushioning foot bed, soft leather and roomy toebox are a plus. It’s too high for me, but it’s been a winner with some of my clients and friends. It comes in black and animal print. The animal print is ideal for redheads, strawberry blondes and auburn haired ladies who like to create a bookended effect with their footwear. Runs true to size and could work for a wider foot.

I like the simplicity of the style and the non-chunky heel. For several fashion seasons, footwear has generally been overly chunky or extra delicate, making these in-between “refined chunky” or “substantially dainty” styles a scarcity. This is a good example of a hybrid. It’s a super little shoe to wear with skirts, dresses, trousers and jeans in Autumn.

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