Understanding my client’s needs is a crucial part of making our time together successful. For new clients this means filling out a questionnaire which is complemented with an extensive chat in person or over the phone. And with regular clients I have a pretty good idea of their outfit needs already, although we frequently re-address them to make sure we are still on the same wavelength.

Style needs include style goals and many other factors. They include internal factors, like style preferences, style persona, and figure flattering priorities, and external factors like lifestyle, climate and environment. Perhaps you have already dedicated some time to understanding your needs, or maybe it has been happening organically over time as you evolve your style. Either way, understanding your style needs can really help you to create outfits that make you feel fabulous.

When I thought about how to articulate in a blog post how I actually use knowledge of my client’s style needs during outfit creation sessions, I realized that I keep five things top of mind. These things form a frame of reference that I refer to before we select one of the four approaches to outfit creation. I also refer to them while we’re creating outfits, pulling items from her closet and laying them out on her bed. And I refer to them again after my client has fitted on an outfit as part of the outfit evaluation process. 

You might use these same five things as a kind of “cheat sheet” during your own outfit creation, thereby helping you to focus on and attain your style goals. 

Comfort Zone

Everyone has a comfort zone. You need to make sure that your outfits aren’t so far outside this comfort zone that you don’t want to wear them. For example, I have one client who is game to wear skirts and dresses to her casual work environment, as long as she’s wearing casual or flat footwear. But matching her skirts and dresses with fancy high heeled pumps or sandals makes her feel prissy and too dressed up, and takes the outfit too far outside her comfort zone. 

Evolution 

This is a counter balance to the previous point. Some of your outfits should push the boundaries of your comfort zone in order to evolve your style and prevent you from getting stuck in a rut. Many clients have asked for my help because they want to refresh their style, which means taking them out of their comfort zone to some extent. So I’m always gently encouraging clients to try new-to-them combinations, but with enough “comfort zone” elements to ensure that they feel confident in the outfit. For example, I suggested to the client I mentioned above that she wear skirts and dresses to work with a dressy wedge sandal. Dressy enough to push the boundaries, but casual enough that she will be comfortable. 

Trends

I believe that a stylish outfit incorporates a bit of “now”. This means being aware of fashion trends and choosing ones that you can adopt. Remember that trends do not change every year and needn’t be hot off the press directional fashion. Including that all important now-factor could mean incorporating a five year old trend. For example, instead of wearing a tailored tucked button-down shirt with a pencil skirt and round toe mary jane pumps, I suggested to my client that she match the same skirt with a less structured untucked top like a soft silky tee and high vamped wedge sandals. That’s because unstructured structure and high vamped footwear is on trend. 

Style Descriptor

Your outfit should map back to your style goals, style descriptor, or the set of adjectives that you’ve compiled to describe the style you are aspiring to. For example, my client aspires to looking feminine, professional, modern, modest and interesting. So we took the same pencil skirt that we matched with a soft silky tee and high vamped wedge sandals, and added a playful pendant necklace, a clutch handbag and a broad cuff bracelet.  

Setting

Every outfit should map back to a setting in your lifestyle, be it for work, play or a special occasion. There is no point in creating dozens of killer outfits for an imaginary lifestyle! With my clients we try to get quite specific when describing the setting (or settings) that map to an outfit. It could be a cocktail party, a normal day at the office, presentation day at the office, a weekend stroll down to the farmer’s market, spending time in the park with the kids, a BBQ at a friend’s house, or casual dinner out.

Understanding one’s needs is sometimes easier than using that information to make decisions. A simple cheat sheet like the one above can make it easier and ensure that nothing is overlooked. Of course there are other criteria to consider, like the all important happiness-factor that is crucial to evaluating the overall success of an outfit. And there is only so much evaluation that you can do in your dressing room, so the road test is equally important. I’ll be covering these aspects in future posts.

Every year I dedicate a post to my late Mum, one of the most stylish people I have known and still my biggest style influence. Greg chose Alki Beach as the setting for this photo shoot because it’s a little like Repulse Bay in Hong Kong, which was one of Mum’s favourite places in the world. It is also where my Mum and Dad first met. 

This outfit, which is precious in more ways than one, is inspired by my precious Mama. First, she was big into wearing voluminous midi skirts, which you might remember from a previous Mother’s Day post. Second, pink in all its shades was her favourite colour, from pastels and muted tones to the brightest shocking pink. Third, she loved pink matched with grey. Fourth, lace and Mama were a happy marriage. The top photo below was taken in 1967 and shows her wearing a lace frock while accepting a flower arranging award when she and my Dad lived in Japan. And most significantly there’s the white pumps — more on them in a moment.

You last saw this full grey skirt when I wore it with a form fitting twinset. But I prefer this skirt worn with a roomy crew neck pullover and banded bottom because it feels more on trend. Loose, but structured in all the right places. The skirt swooshes quite loudly as I stride, which together with my clicking heels makes for a rather loud outfit. Volume in more ways than one! Outfits that make sounds can be fun to wear. 

Greg surprised me with this lace bomber jacket last Christmas, and it’s surprisingly versatile. It works over all sorts of dresses, trousers, jeans, harem pants, denim cut-offs, pencil skirts, and full skirts. I always wear it open and enjoy its sporty integrity juxtaposed with ladylike items like this retro midi. The black lace is backed with a light grey jersey which creates the effect of a pattern. So there is a bit of subtle pattern mixing going on. 

I popped on these white pointy toed pumps for the first time, looked at my feet, and sat down to catch my breath. They are Mama’s feet in her favourite shaped shoe — the elegant, refined, pretty pump. We even wore the same shoe size and have identical long toes. Light coloured footwear is very much part of my style, and to say it is a joy to wear these white pumps is an understatement. At the moment, I want to wear them with everything. 

I finished off the look with retro specs to match the retro flavour of the outfit. The daytime clutch is a modern addition, while the gold watch and wedding ring are constants for my style. And of course, I switched over to Team Gold three years ago. And gold is the only metal Mama ever wore. 

The happiness factor of this outfit is through the roof because its elements remind me of Mama, and Greg bought me the lace bomber. It doesn’t hurt that the neon pink pullover also reminds me of the glorious ’80s, one of my favourite fashion eras.

Without deliberately planning it this way, I’m seeing more similarities between my Mum’s style and my own over time. Mama was all about ladylike looks, refinement, and pretty things. More and more I’m feeling the need to step up the ladylike aspect of my style when things get just a little too tomboy. Whatever the reason for it, our blossoming style similarity is very comforting to me. It’s been thirteen years since Mama passed away, and my memories of her aren’t as clear as they used to be. Seeing myself in items that remind me of her rekindles precious memories that I want to keep close to my heart and top of my mind. Not all daughters are close to their mothers, but I was, and that’s why I want to keep her style spirit alive inside of me. 

Mama, with our little Jasmine by your side, I know you can see us from your big fluffy cloud in the sky. I think about you daily and wonder how you would react to all sorts of situations. It is so incredibly sad that we can’t share YLF with you, because fashion, along with the kids, dogs, and flowers was your thing. But please don’t feel left out. Know that you are still in my head and always in my heart when I make purchase decisions for my wardrobe. You’ve taught me so much, and I miss you so much. You will forever be an incomparable role model, who today at age 72 would have rocked my style world with the best of them. Guaranteed. 

We at YLF wish you all a very happy Mother’s Day.

The “Virgin blouse wars” have reignited the discussion about imposing an employee dress code that only affects female workers. In this particular case, Virgin Trains’ female staff have rejected their new uniform that includes a “flimsy” and “revealing” red blouse. In the same week it was reported that Turkish Airlines has banned its crew members from wearing red or dark pink lipstick and nail polish, as “such colourful displays impair visual integrity”.

Vivienne Westwood has teamed up with Virgin Atlantic Airline to redesign the company’s well-known red uniforms. The uniforms will be made with some sustainable fabrics and feature “40s-esque nipped in waist and Savile Row touches”.

If you’d like to learn more about the history of flight attendant uniforms, then hop on over to Cliff Muskiet’s website. This Dutchman has been collecting and photographing cabin crew uniforms for more than 20 years.

Fab Links from Our Members

The Museum at FIT has an online fashion collection by date. Deb predicts that once she starts exploring the archives, she will get lost for hours.

Sarah A thought that “10 Step Wardrobe Revamp” contains lots of great info on editing and organizing your wardrobe.

While searching for bloggers that only wear black, Deborah came across Ilanka over at Fashion Nerdic. A Dutch lass who has a very dramatic, striking style and… only wears white.

Annagybe recommends taking a look at this very interesting article about the evolution of shock in fashion.

Imogen’s post on how to dress your tummy when you have a Caesar scar or lots of weight is a good read. Angie would like to add that structured or semi-structured jackets worn open over loose drapey tops with slim or bootcut bottoms is another great way to go.

Laurinda admires Mariah Herron for choosing a prom dress that suits her personality and lifestyle, to wit a custom Winter camouflage dress sewn by her dad.

Colour Muse regularly publishes articles on proportion and style for the 50+ crowd. Definitely worth checking out, says Dianthus.

Nancylee enjoyed this interview in which Patricia Volk discusses her new memoir “Shocked”, the story of the two women who impressed their ideas of beauty and womanhood on her: her own mother and haute couture designer Elsa Schiaparelli.

I am fascinated by both of these outfits. They are almost completely unstructured with a lot of body coverage, yet still attractive in an arty, avant-garde way. And in a way that isn’t conventionally flattering. They are also very ventilated, allowing the wearer to stay cool and covered in scorching Summer weather. Genius. 

Although the outfits are essentially unstructured, there is just enough structure to make them look good to my eye. I spoke about ways to create structure last week and you can see some of those principles at work here.

First, there is the tailored footwear. Streamlined sandals showing a lot of bare skin. Second, baring skin in general adds structure to an outfit, which is especially effective in the version with the sleeveless top. The sleeved top is sheer and skin baring in a more subtle way, which again adds a little structure to the look. Third, the outer layer of the tops are cropped shorter than the bottom layers, which ever so slightly hint at a waist. Fourth, the tops are structured on the shoulder line. And fifth, the hitched up side of the skirt visually lifts the silhouette by providing asymmetrical and architectural interest, and shows more of the leg on the one side. The skirt, which is the same in both outfits, would not have looked as structured with a straight symmetrical hem.

Personally, I feel that these outfits would have looked even better with a short, modern hairstyle. I know a lady in her sixties who dresses to this effect daily, and she is extremely stylish. She has short grey hair that sticks up in a few directions, quite similar to my own ‘do, and it takes the outfit to another level by adding in just a little more structure and polish. 

This type of outfit is not for everyone because you have to be at peace with the volume. Many of us prefer to wear more structured clothing because it makes us feel attractive. Would you feel fabulous hiding your assets with this amount of volume? And if the look is not your cup of tea, can you appreciate it on others?