Two Fab Avant-Garde Pieces From All Saints

I went shopping with a client yesterday who blew me away when she tried on these interesting pieces from All Saints. Like most items in All Saints, they are black and a shade of grey. Good thing my client loves to wear grey. 

Blaye Sweater

A capelet with proper sleeves that creates an interesting silhouette. It’s fluid, but tailored in all the right places. It’s as fabulous on its own or layered over a long sleeved-tee or button-down shirt.

Blaye Sweater

Drina Sweater Dress

This genius design is amazing. It has two short zip fastenings, one on the right shoulder and another on the right side seam under the armhole, so that you can zip the front panel in two places creating different silhouettes (the photos showcase the variations). Wear it as a dress with hose, boots, booties or pumps. Or wear it over skinnies. 

Drina Sweater Dress - BlackDrina Sweater Dress - Grey

Both pieces are non-itch and fairly refined. The capelet style sweater is a great way to jazz up a classic pair of trousers or a pencil skirt and does not bunch that badly under a coat. The dress or tunic is an easy “throw on and go” that makes a creative statement on its own. These types of avant-garde pieces don’t date because they aren’t trendy. They stand on their own like modern classics and have a high longevity factor.

Fair Isle Knitwear: Yay or Nay

Fair Isle is a traditional knitting technique from Northern Scotland. The technique creates distinctive geometric patterns across multiple colours, and you’d probably recognize a Fair Isle sweater if you saw it — the photos here are good examples. 

Fair Isle pattern colours can be low or high contrast, and knitted in fine gauge or chunky wool, wool blends or cotton rich yarns. Patterns are positioned throughout the sweater, or as a yoke around the neckline and top shoulder. Sleeve pattern repetition is optional. 

We see a little Fair Isle knitwear every year because it’s a classic design. This season it’s making a fashion statement and being edged up by pairings with leather bottoms, like skirts, shorts and pants. Of course, you don’t need to wear it with leather bottoms. Jeans, camo pants, Ponte pants, checked pants and wool trousers are other options. You could also match Fair Isle knitwear with a solid pencil skirt, tweed shorts or a full skirt. 

I like Fair Isle knitwear, but do not love it. There is something about this particular design that can look frumpy to my eye, especially when the cut of the pullover is not a fashionable and trending silhouette, and when the knit is extra chunky. Perhaps that’s because I have bad ’70s memories of Fair Isle, or because the geometric patterns aren’t exactly my cup of tea. 

That said, I do love the first two styles shown below because they are not classic pullover shapes. The Joie Deedra Fair Isle Sweater, is fine gauge, slightly swingy and looks cheeky at that length and silhouette. I like the way it’s been matched with a plaid shirt and leather bottoms. I also love the Alexander Wang Fair Isle Sweater because of the round shouldered sleeve shape, dropped shoulder seam, high neckline, and upscale sweatshirt vibe. I’d wear both pullovers with white jeans and ink blue booties or white booties, and finish off the outfit with a bright pink coat. 

I’m a cautious yay for Fair Isle. I love the traditional knitting technique when the cut of the pullovers are fashion forward and on trend. I like Fair Isle a lot less in a modern classic silhouette. What’s your take?

Joie Deedra Fair Isle Sweater

Alexander Wang Fair Isle Sweater

Cardigan Charlie Fair Isle SweaterFree People Hooded Fair Isle Pullover

ASOS Boutique by Jaeger Fairisle Knitted Sweater

Collection Cashmere Fair Isle Back Zip SweaterMadewell Fair Isle Striped Sweater

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Ensemble: Pencil Skirt & Leather Jacket at the Office

This ensemble changes up the classic, business casual pencil skirt + blazer outfit formula. A while ago, I suggested that leather or pleather jackets can be office appropriate when they aren’t overly distressed with loads of bulky hardware. You’re after a more refined style that’s not hectically “biker”, and in a fairly neutral colour. Mixed media styles that combine Ponte knit or tweed with leather work well too. 

Note that leather jackets needn’t be restricted to outerwear. You can wear leather jackets indoors when they are lightweight. In fact, some of my leather jackets are less insulating than some of my wool blazers. So if you’re hot in a leather jacket, you’re probably wearing a thick and heavy version that is best left for outdoors. And that means you might like to add a lightweight leather jacket to your topper capsule, to be interchanged with a blazer. 

Choose any colour palette. Here are the components:

Pencil Skirt: Choose a solid or pattern in a length and fabrication that tickles your fancy. I’ve chosen a pattern to liven up the look. Textured jacquards, lace, herringbone and tweed are other options. 

Top: Match up the skirt with fluid knitwear, mock wraps, turtlenecks, layering tees, drapey knits or tank tops. I’ve found that a clean neckline works best under a leather jacket, like a V-neck, scoop, slash, crew or turtleneck. Collars on shirts and blouses can get in the way, and cowls look a little busy. 

Leather Jacket: For the office, choose a dressier style that is not overly rugged. I’ve chosen leather jackets with waterfall fronts instead of moto styling. Moto styling can work if it’s refined and subtle. Leather Chanel-esque jackets, blazer styles and scuba silhouettes are other options. 

Footwear: Dressy knee-high boots are an easy pairing, as are tailored booties and pumps. It’s not “too much leather” to wear a leather jacket with tall leather boots. But if you feel that is the case, opt for suede boots and/or a mixed media jacket to break up the expanse of leather. 

Accessories: Finish off the look with an angular bag to offset the curves created by the pencil skirt. It’s not at all essential but I fancy that juxtaposition. Add jewellery, watch and eyewear as desired. If your outfit feels too plain when you wear a solid skirt and top, then add a scarf . 

Pencil Skirt & Leather Jacket for the Office

Of course, if you’re going to overheat wearing a leather jacket indoors no matter what, remove it when you sit and work at your desk.  

I focused on business casual in a more corporate setting, which is why I kept things on the dressy side. But feel free to wear rugged and distressed leather jackets and boots with this combination if that suits your casual lifestyle. Adding rough elements to a strict pencil skirt is a fun juxtaposition.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Link Love: The Invisible Woman

I always enjoy reading Invisible Woman’s blog posts on The Guardian website. Aging gracefully and fashion for older women is one of the topics she is passionate about. Her tongue-in-cheek pieces on the subject are often thought-provoking and refreshingly funny at the same time.

Here are a few recent examples:

Fab Links from Our Members

Krishnidoux thought that these tips on scarves.net are brilliant. They show you different ways to tie a scarf, and which method works best for different necklines.

Vildy was surprised to learn that French fashion designer Sonia Rykiel invented the poor boy sweater, and enjoyed reading this Guardian piece on “the queen of knitwear”.

Angie absolutely loves this monochromatic and oh so trendy leather skirt outfit from Alison at Wardrobe Oxygen. “It’s fresh, pretty, a little edgy and flattering. Loving her wild curls, bling and red lips with the cheeky leather skirt and soft feminine sweater. All of which are grounded by a column of black opaque tights and booties. Fabulous.” 

Movement and Rigidity in My Wardrobe

Clothing that amplifies movement is less structured, cut a little wider, and made of fabrications that are soft to allow for drape. Clothes that are structured, hard and stiff, do not move at all. 

I worked out why I don’t like to wear bootcut jeans, but love wearing bootcut trousers. At first I thought it was about the dressiness of trousers that made me like them more than a similar silhouette in jeans. But that makes little sense since I bat for Team Faded Denim. Actually, it’s more about the fabric movement in a pair of flared wool trousers, and the lack of movement in a pair of bootcut jeans. The drape of the wool allows the item to move as you stride, while the denim hangs rigidly against the body. 

I thought further about silhouettes that I enjoy wearing because of their “movement-factor”. Full skirts are an obvious example. They swoosh and make sounds as you move. Fluid and oversized knitwear with a welt (band at the waist) moves around the midriff, yet the welt provides ample structure. Oversized pullovers with high-low hemlines allow further midriff movement. Fluid wool trousers, although tapered at the hems, are baggy on the leg, which increases their movement factor. Roomy silk and linen blouses move by flopping around throughout the day. And my new pink man coat moves magically because of its slightly oversized cut, high back vent and drapey fabrication. 

For me it goes beyond feeling physically comfortable and being ready for action. It’s about a sense of elegance and chic that I associate with items that have movement. There is also a sense of “relaxed ease” that dresses down the vibe of formal pieces and amps up the modern aspect of your outfit. And last, it’s fun to wear clothes with a high-movement factor, like a full midi skirt. My happiness factor rises because of a sense of heightened freedom that I feel when I’m not wearing more rigid clothing. 

Of course, I’m also comfortable in and enjoy wearing more rigid clothing items, like straight leg jeans, denim jackets, cigarette pants, sheath dresses, form-fitting turtlenecks, tailored button-down shirts, and pencil skirts. In fact, my new white colour blocked jacket does not move at all, and I love it.

I have grown aware of my need for wardrobe items with a movement factor and how they positively affect my mood. So it’s important to me that the correct mix of movement and structure is reflected in my wardrobe. This in turn affects future purchasing decisions, which is why I’m returning this gorgeous long sleeved Angel Midi Bodycon dress from ASOS. It looked pretty, was warm, and the right length. But it didn’t have the movement factor. And seeing as I already added two sleeved form fitting (motionless) dresses to my wardrobe this year, I do not want to add another.  

Do these thoughts on clothing movement resonate with you? If so, does the happiness factor associated with movement go beyond the needs of physical comfort? Are you equally comfortable in highly structured clothing?