A new Raf Simons documentary is coming to US theatres, J.Crew opens its first store in Paris, an interesting Target collection, and more style-related stories from around the globe.

• J.Crew just opened its first womenswear store in Paris. A separate men’s boutique is also in the works.
• According to a recent study menswear is the fastest growing category of online sales.
• Starting April 29, Women’s Wear Daily will appear weekly instead of daily. The publication is also shifting its focus to the web.
• Dior and I, the documentary about Raf Simons’ first months as Creative Director at Christian Dior, is coming to US theatres on 10 April.
• Seven7, Melissa McCarthy’s women’s collection, will hit stores this August, and will also be sold online.
• Target is launching Target Collective, a curated men’s line of clothes, accessories and stationery all made in the United States.

Fun Fashion Fact

Did you know that French fashion designer Jeanne Lanvin was one of the first designers in the world to make four collections a year, with each collection consisting of more than 200 looks.

I recently worked with a client who wanted to relax her corporate business casual look for Spring. So we refreshed her wardrobe by building a smart casual mix-and-match capsule in black and white with splashes of jewel tones. The bottoms and jackets are what make her work outfits more casual than what she had worn in the past. 

We worked on a ratio of three bottoms, seven tops, three toppers, three pairs of shoes and two bags. No scarves or belts, since most of the tops are worn out over bottoms. In some instances the tops can be partially tucked in front, but since the bottoms are slim-fits, we decided to keep things simple and leave off the belt. 

Apart from three substitutes, these are the exact items that went into the capsule. All seven tops can be worn with all three bottoms and topped with either of the black jackets. The taupe and cream jacket works best with five of the tops, but at a push can be worn with all of them. Both black pairs of footwear work with all the outfit combinations. The stone booties work with fewer outfit combinations, but provide a good amount of variety in the mix.

Bottoms

My client is not a skirt gal, so we chose three pairs of dressier tailored skinnies across different colours. A pair of black cigarette pants, a pair of shiny taupe jeans, and a pair of relaxed cropped jeans in a dark denim. The skinnies fit my client more like slim straight legs because she is narrow in the calf. Although these pants are more casual than the slacks my client used to wear, they are dressier than faded denim, chinos, leggings or corduroy. The tapered leg is easy to pair with any heel height and works well in wet Seattle weather.

Tops 

Ample variety is key. We chose two woven tops, four knitted tops, and one item of knitwear. We added further variety by choosing patterns, solids and a colour block. We kept some styles fitted, and others fluid. The assortment is both modern classic and trendy:

1. On trend woven drape-front blouse in a fluid fit and pattern. 
2. Classic knitted and fitted mock-wrap top in a pattern.
3. Classic knitted and fitted keyhole top in a pattern.
4. Classic woven crisp tailored shirt in a solid. 
5. On trend knitted and fluid flutter sleeve top in a pattern. 
6. Classic knitted, fitted and textured shell top in a solid. 
7. On trend oversized underlay sweater in a solid colour block. 

It’s unclear in the photos but tops #1, #3 and #5 have taupe in the pattern, which picks up the taupe in the shiny jeans. The black in the patterns creates a cohesive look with the black shoes and my client’s black hair. 

Toppers

We kept the toppers on the trendy side to complement the simpler bottoms. We chose three different, yet tailored silhouettes. One knit, one woven and one pleather. Although two of the jackets are black, they are not similar in style or integrity. The one is a casual and comfortable knitted moto jacket, while the other is a dramatic, stiffer and dressier peplum jacket. The pleather is light and playful, and a tonal match with the taupe pants. 

The jackets will be kept open most of the time to showcase the contrasting tops, and to create a slimming vertical line down the centre front of the outfit. But the black jackets look sharp zipped up, as another option. 

Footwear  

Booties can be worn most of the year in Seattle so it’s practical to have a large number of them. We chose a dressy pair of black booties and a trendy and dressier pair of black slipper flats. Although we haven’t found them yet, we intend to add a pair of stone booties to lighten things up. At home, my client has sea foam, black, animal print and nude pumps that can also work beautifully with some of the outfits. 

Accessories 

My client is not a big scarf or jewellery wearer. That leaves a bag, watch and wedding ring as daily accessories. We’re sticking to a beautifully made black satchel for most days, and threw in a trendy white pleather clutch just for fun. 

My client has items at home that further embellish the outfit possibilities of this capsule, like white jeans, a white denim jacket, sea foam jeans, red jeans, a fuchsia jacket, black and white geometric print tops, and more floral knitwear and black booties.

Now that the neutral capsule is complete, we’re on to building the next Spring capsule with mid tones, pastels and white. A big thank you to my wonderful client for generously allowing me to share this information with you. 

From “flandanas” — the fleece-lined bandana that adds extra warmth — to versions in silk or cotton, the bandana made a regular appearance on the catwalks and streets during last month’s Fashion Weeks.

• Popsugar suggests that the bandana may replace your statement necklace.
• From date night to brunch, they also created four looks that incorporate the bandana.
• Coach and Derek Lam 10 Crosby sent their models down the runway sporting the handkerchief scarf.
• Would you sport the look yourself? Here are a few examples for inspiration: Knotted under a turtleneck, with your warm Winter coat, skinny jeans and fun-coloured furry coat, paired with a classic white shirt.

Fab Links from Our Members

This article on powerful women and their uniforms discusses the concept that when we dress for work, we are “defining our public-facing self”. La Belle Demimondaine finds this idea both interesting and wearying.

Deborah has found Hot and Flashy, a blog that focusses on anti-aging procedures, skincare, make-up, hair, fashion, nutrition, and exercise, very helpful.

Sally recently linked to YLF forum member Sharon’s wonderful and inspiring blog, The Breastless Years. Thanks for letting us know, Deborah.

Check out these slides and video from the Chanel show for Fall 2015 earlier this week. Attendees sat at a brasserie while the models joined them. Angie thought the concept was unique and memorable.

We’re hopefully leaving blanket scarf season behind us very soon, but LadyLilac is definitely saving Jean’s video on how to style an oversized scarf for next Fall.

Lisa’s post on how to wear black, or any colour for that matter, with intention and forethought, really spoke to Vildy.

It’s fun to see fashion turn full circle with a line-up of footwear trends that were all the rage a couple of decades ago. Some styles, like the toe mules, were fashionable as recently as fourteen years ago, which meant that they had a good run. And silhouettes like the sandals with mesh inserts generally kept their stylish flair despite the dated look of their ‘90s mates. 

‘90s footwear was generally chunky, heavy, square-toed, casual and black, which was quite a switch from the more delicate shoes of the ‘80s. Lug soles, flatforms and platforms reigned supreme, as did shoes with wide straps, large buckles, velcro fastenings, bulky laces, large soles, block heels, and silver hardware. Unisex footwear like Dr. Martens were popular in the early ‘90s, as were all styles of “tough boots” and blunt platform boots. Ladylike styles with pointy toes and slim heels were not the norm of the decade, but they weren’t absent either. 

Here are the ‘90s inspired fringe footwear styles that are coming through for Spring and Summer. They are not mainstream, but might gain momentum over time.

1.Toe Mules

Mules are backless slip-on shoes with covered toes. They were one of the few dainty styles of the decade, which made them stand out. They are elegant on the foot, but I found them hard to walk in. The heeled versions slipped off my feet, which meant that I had to curl my toes to keep them on. Hello foot cramp. The flatter versions were better, but often cut across the top of my foot. They also click loudly as you stride. That said, I like the way they look, and will enjoy them vicariously through you.

2. Chunky T-Bar Shoes

The T- bar shoe stays on the foot and is very supportive. Back in the ‘90s, the soles were heavy, which made them tiring to walk in. This time round they’re a lot lighter and more comfortable. They are best suited to high volume feet. I like them best in black, white or metallic. They can look a little juvenile so you’d have to add a degree of sophistication to make your overall look more grown-up. 

3. Sliders

I used to call them slides, but they’re called “sliders” this time round. The renditions can be dressy or casual depending on the material of the sole and the fabrication of the upper. Some of the footbeds can be arch supporting and cushioning, so don’t rule them out just because they’re flat. I like the versions that cover at least part of the bottom of the toe because that looks more elegant to my eye. Slides that expose the entire toe look too “caveman” for lack of a better description.

4. Block Heeled Platform Sandals 

A sandal with wide straps on top and a very chunky sole with block heel on the bottom. At least the front platform prevents the foot from being overly arched by the high heel. Casual, and a little more grown-up than the T-bar style.

5. Geek Shoes 

In brown or black these look like the shoes we wore with our school uniforms back in the ‘70s. I like them in the pastels and white a LOT more, because it softens the look. Soles are chunky, and some chunkier than others. It’s a comfortable and supportive shoe (which is why Clarks and Bata sold them as school shoes back in the day). Arty and “Harajuku”, especially when worn with socks, skirts and dresses. An acquired taste, but can be cute nonetheless.

6. Dr. Martens

Docs need little introduction (most of us probably wore the brand at some point). I’ve shown the non-boot styles here, of which there are many — these are by no means exhaustive. Chunky, masculine and with that signature resin sole. I’ve worn a lot of Docs in my day, either the original lace-up boots styles or monk strap oxfords. They take a while to break in, but they’re quite heavenly afterwards.

7. Platform Sneakers 

I bet most of us wore a version of platform sneakers. Some of the soles are still quite heavy, but lightweight versions are available too. The soles are either block-heeled or flatform. To my eye, black, white and metallic once again look best.

8. Sandals with Mesh Inserts

A more refined ‘90s inspired ped that might be the most wearable and versatile of the lot. Soles can be slim and dainty like the version on the right, or chunkier like the one on the left. Either way, the mesh inserts are interesting, alluring and Sporty Luxe.

9. Square Toes

Wider feet tend to enjoy the square toe because the footbed is roomier than a pointy toe. Square-toed shoes can be toe-covering or expose part of the toe. Almost any style of shoe can have a square toe. Here I’ve shown a sandal bootie on the left and slides on the right.

Back in the early ‘90s, I loved my Dr. Martens best of all. Later in the decade I liked wearing flat black slides made of soft leather or fully elasticated uppers because they were extremely comfortable. I also enjoyed wearing mesh insert sandals with velcro straps. It was amazing that I could find styles to fit my low volume feet. I had my fair share of closed, square-toed footwear, which I could take or leave. I loved the look of toe mules, but they were difficult to walk in. By far the biggest disaster was the chunky platform sneaker. They were extremely heavy and uncomfortable. I used to cover my feet in plasters before I wore them, and was hobbling in less than half an hour anyway. Yet I persevered for the sake of fashion. I’m glad those days are over. 

I’m not into chunky footwear these days, although I will always have a soft spot for Dr. Martens. I like the look of the less chunky slides and mesh insert sandals, but since I prefer to cover my toes, I don’t think they will work this time round.

Over to you. Does this ‘90s inspired footwear bring back good or bad memories, and would you wear any of the styles again?