Link Love: Fashion Weeks Around the World

Today is already the last day of New York Fashion Week, where designers are showing their Spring/Summer 2017 ready-to-wear collections. I’ve been reading some interesting behind-the-scenes articles, which I’d like to share:

There are currently about 80 Fashion Weeks around the world. Most media outlets mainly report on the Big Four — New York, London, Paris, and Milan — and have less time to explore smaller developing markets. Racked investigates when a fashion week has reached the maturation point at which it can successfully ramp up its foreign agenda.

If you have lost track of who works where, then T Magazine’s guide of new names and old pros will come in handy.

Business of Fashion explains the new rules of seating arrangements at fashion shows.

The New York Times has been running an interesting oral history about New York Fashion Week. In one instalment they also go deeper into the seating arrangements and what it meant to be in the front row, another explores how runway models went from being underpaid mannequins to the stars of fashion week. I also enjoyed reading about designers recalling their debut shows and other pivotal moments in their runway careers.

Fab Links from Our Members

Vildy is impressed with Rae’s short video illustrating her method of cleaning out your closet by using an off-screen client’s real wardrobe as an example.

With Angie’s blog post on extended sleeves in mind, Barbara Diane wanted to show us this photo. She loves how the dramatic pleated long sleeve looks in motion.

UmmLila directs us to Google’s Fall fashion trends report. She thought it was interesting because it shows which of the trends are actually being picked up by “regular” people who are doing fashion searches and who might end up buying the clothes.

The Disconnect Between Retail and the Weather

There is often a disconnect between the weather outside and the merchandise that is sold at retail. Spring and Summer collections hit stores in the northern hemisphere in February when we’re bundled up because of ice and snow on the ground. Heavyweight Fall and Winter merchandise hits stores in August when we’re trying to beat the heat in breezy skirts, dresses and sandals. 

The fashion industry has operated like this for as long as I can remember, and there is method to the madness. The idea is that you plan ahead by refreshing your wardrobe early. That way you’re prepared and ready to wear something new as the weather begins to change instead of scrambling at the last minute.

Of course, the flip side is that it’s hard to focus on seasonal merchandise that’s very different to what you’re wearing at the time. It can also be hard to pinpoint your sartorial preferences so far in advance. Some prefer to wear their items as soon as they’ve bought them instead of waiting for hotter and colder weather. And some prefer to wait for end-of-season sales because they’re bargain hunters. 

More recently though, I’ve found that retailers are doing a better job of supplying weather-appropriate wardrobe items at the right time. Retailers in the US stock transitional merchandise throughout the year, which is brilliant for moderate climates. They’ve also caught on to the fact that Spring coats and cashmere make complete sense, and that sleeveless tops or sandal booties are a hit in early Autumn. Plus, online shopping has made it possible to shop for a larger range of items at any time of the year. 

I’m not sure whether it’s just because I’m conditioned this way, but I fully support the “disconnect with the weather outside” retail strategy because it makes me feel more prepared for the upcoming season. I love planning my seasonal refresh in advance, and having new items in the wings waiting for just the right weather conditions. And if those weather conditions show up earlier than expected — so much the better. I can enjoy my new stash earlier, and my upfront planning has more than paid off. 

It also helps that I am most excited about shopping right at the start of the season, so the refresh is on my radar. Retail buyers put their best stuff in early and that’s when I pounce. I’m assured of getting my size in the colours that most tickle my fancy. By the time the weather outside complements the merchandise in stores, I no longer want to think about planning and organizing my wardrobe for the current season (plus I’m bored with what I see.) I want to enjoy what I bought, wear the heck out of it, and slowly begin planning for the upcoming season so that I’m once again ready to pounce when the first lots of inventory hit retail. 

Over to you. What do you think of the disconnect between the weather outside and what is sold at retail? Do you wish that retail merchandise was more aligned with our weather patterns?

Fall Trend: Mary Janes

As I mentioned in my seasonal trend report, Mary Jane footwear is making a comeback. Mary Janes are low-vamped shoes with one or more straps running across the instep of the shoe. The style is very distinctive, and here’s a collection that is hot off the press for Fall. 

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Mary Janes can be dressy or casual, heeled, wedged or flat, solid, patterned, or colour blocked, and dainty or chunky. The strap(s) that runs across the instep can be positioned higher or lower on the foot, and can be narrow or broad. Toe boxes run the gamut. Pointy, almond, square, round, or rounded and square. 

Mary Janes have their pros and cons. Let’s start with the pros:

  • The low vamp looks fresh after five years of ultra trendy high vamps. 
  • The straps secure the pump to the foot. 
  • They have a Retro appeal. 
  • The straps are fun maximal details. 
  • They can look quirky when worn with socks. 
  • They can look gorgeously ladylike and slightly playful. 

Here are the cons:

  • They can look juvenile and too “school girl”.
  • The straps can create an unflattering horizontally cutting line across your leg line (although a low-contrast strap will minimize that effect.)
  • The aesthetic can be prissy, ladylike and twee. 
  • The style is hard to fit on feet with high insteps (straps are often too short.)

I have mixed feelings about Mary Janes, although I love my Tokyo wedges because they are unique. I wore flat, round toe Mary Janes with socks and tights daily for twelve years as part of a school uniform, so I sometimes have a negative reaction to the silhouette. That said, their ladylike and Retro integrity appeals to me. If I come across a pair of dressy and heeled darlings that look sufficiently “grown up” to my eye, they will earn their spot in my closet. 

Over to you. How do you feel about Mary Janes, and will you wear them?

MARC JACOBS Lexi Glittered Patent-leather Mary Jane PumpsLANVIN Patent-leather Mary Jane PumpsMIU MIU Crystal-embellished Velvet Mary Jane PumpsGUCCI FOR NET-A-PORTER Floral-print Textured-leather Pumps

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Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Dressed Up Jeans and Tee

A new outfit from Brenna Mari of Chic Street Style, whom we introduced to YLF in January 2014.

Brenna dresses up a simple tee and jeans with well-chosen accessories and a chic trench. She’s tucked a white slub jersey T-shirt into distressed skinny jeans. The ripped knee combined with the tee are very casual. Opting for a neutral colour palette paired with gold-toned jewellery, a cognac leather satchel and drapey waterfall trench adds lots of polish. Nude chunky heeled cage sandals create soft edge and provide visual interest. So do Brenna’s oversized round sunnies and her caramel ombré locks that complement the colour palette beautifully. A soft pink lipstick and classic Chanel brooch finish off the look.

Brenna - 1

Brenna - 2

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Team Boutique or Team Department Store

My favourite places to shop around the world are department stores, which vary in target market and price points. There’s De Bijenkorf and HEMA in the Netherlands. In the United Kingdom I love John Lewis, Marks & Spencer and Selfridges. Canada has Holt Renfrew. In Japan and Hong Kong I love to visit Sogo, Isetan and Takashimaya. In Singapore there’s Tangs. And of course, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s in the US. 

I love shopping in department stores because they offer enormous variety, my size is normally available, there’s lots of space, helpful service when I ask for it, the best return policy, and brilliant restrooms. As a shopper I can be anonymous, focussed, independent and comfortable. I am not overwhelmed by the mass of merchandise, because I’ve had lots of practice shopping in huge stores. Usually I’m able to zone in on the areas that interest me quite quickly and get on with it. And last, some department stores have the BEST delicatessen and food halls. If you haven’t been to the food and florist floors in a Japanese department store, you are missing out. It’s sublime. 

I am less comfortable shopping in a small boutique because it’s harder to be anonymous and independent. Personally, I don’t want the sales assistant bringing me items by way of suggestion, and waiting outside the dressing room to tell me what he or she thinks of what I am trying on. Although that type of service and camaraderie is part of the charm of shopping at a boutique, it tends to have a negative effect on me. More importantly though, boutiques and small stores lack the variety I am after, and hardly ever stock my size. I also seldom seem to be drawn to the merchandise in a boutique, unless on the off chance, it’s a brand that I can get in a department store. And in that case, I would rather buy it at the department store. 

I fully understand that many prefer to shop in small boutiques, and my guess is that Team Boutique will win this race. You receive personal attention, get to know the store staff (possibly even the owner), and the amount of merchandise is very manageable. You might even get a discount when there isn’t a sale, and above all, you love the merchandise. 

I bat for Team Department Store. Over to you. Do you prefer shopping in boutiques or departments stores? Tell us why and no batting for both teams. But if you happen to find yourself on the bench, I’m serving chicken lettuce wraps with peanut sauce, and gelato for dessert.