The Polarization of Retail Price Points

Retail has changed so much over the last twenty years. Department stores are disappearing and online shopping has taken over the industry. Consignment and thrift stores are gaining momentum. Personalized shopping packages are fashionable, and it’s possible to rent your wardrobe instead of owning it. The new reality is pretty mind-blowing.

It’s not just the way we shop that’s different, the price point structure is changing too. The market seems to be polarizing to two extremes: fast fashion and designer wear.

Fast Fashion is relatively inexpensive and affordable to most. Quality ranges from fair to poor, and is inconsistent from item to item. Some items are sold so incredibly cheaply that I can’t get my head around how they can possible be making a profit.

Designer Wear ranges from pricey to extremely pricey. Quality ranges from good to impeccable. Designs are fairly unique, fabrics and workmanship are superior, and you’re paying a lot extra for the exclusivity and status of the brand. The prices of designer wear also seem to be getting more expensive season after season.

The product that lies between these price points is disappearing. These items are very well made and use gorgeous fabrics. Some thought and precision has gone into their design, and they last over time. They are pricey compared to fast fashion, but not nearly as expensive as designer wear.

A lot of chain store merchandise is getting more like fast fashion, especially since retailers discount the goods regularly and still have to make a profit. They are continuously finding ways to reduce item costs, which takes a toll on the workmanship and fabric integrity.

Brands like Karen Millen and Boden are examples of this disappearing price point. More expensive than fast fashion, but for the price you get a quality item. Years ago, many house brands from Nordstrom fit the bill too, but that is no longer the case.

As a retail buyer I worked closely with clothing manufacturers and learned that superior fabric and workmanship comes at a price. Personally, I will happily pay extra for a wardrobe item that is made of luxe fabric, has all sorts of quality details, is flawlessly stitched together, and handles well in the laundry. But I’m not necessarily looking for designer wear where I have to pay a premium for the prestige of the label. These quality, non-designer items are harder and harder to find and that’s just the way the market is going. Things are fast, faster, or slow, with very little in between.

Fab Finds: Shoes, Tops & Jewellery

Here are some items that have worked well for my clients recently. Some of them are simple and basic. Sometimes, we overlook how effectively simple silhouettes can be when they are dressed up and down, layered, amped up with accessories, or making a statement piece shine. They may look “boring” or uninteresting on their own, but remember to give them a chance because they can be fabulous in an outfit.

1. Blondo Ida Waterproof Bootie

Puddle, ice and light snow-proof with grippy non-slip and flexible soles. Visually sleek and very comfortable. Works for a wider volume foot, especially if you size up half a size. Low volume feet need to wear thick socks and add an insole. I vote charcoal grey as the best colour of the lot. Very deserving of the rave reviews.

2. Ann Taylor Faux Wrap Knit Top

A lovely modern classic with good drape. It has been SUCH a breath of fresh air to see clients wear tailored pieces like this wrap top for a change. It works well both tucked and untucked. Traditionally flattering. Works on a larger and smaller bust. As good on a straighter figure as it is on a curvier figure. Defines the waist of a rectangular figure, and accentuates the waist or an hourglass. Not good for muffin top.

3. Gentle Souls Ethan Pump

Dandy Fabness. More of a heeled loafer than a pump. It’s gloriously comfortable, super soft, and does not squish your toes. The stable block heel is magical. Visually, it shortens the foot a little, which might look stumpy so consider yourself warned. All the colours are nice. The gold is considerably brighter than the metallic brown or black patent. Works quite well for higher volume feet. My low volume feet were very happy and the gold followed me home as potential holiday party shoes. They are a good match with cropped jeans and trousers, and an unexpected match with dresses. I like them with dresses, and did not find them stumpy.

4. COS Roll-Neck Merino Jumper

Turtlenecks are a wardrobe essential for my style, and there are many to choose from each season. Despite their abundance, the ones that fit around the neck the way I want them to are rare. I like a tight, neat and polished fit around my neck, and most are sloppy. I also prefer knitwear to jersey knit. This turtleneck has a fantastic fit around the neck and is an item of knitwear. The body is as fluid as seen in the pics. The length is quite long, and looks good worn out over streamlined bottoms (not semi-tucked). The burgundy is a rich wine red in person, and that’s the one that earned a place in my wardrobe.

5. Madewell Gold Jewellery

Madewell does great clothing, but they do equally good casual and interesting gold jewellery. It’s well made, usually a brushed gold, and quite unique. The pieces are playful and delicately architectural. Clients often purchase a fun piece when we’re in the store shopping for jeans and tops.

6. Banana Republic Cropped Stretch Velveteen Pants

Many of my clients bought these, and almost all in the burgundy, and I did too. Very comfortable, warm, and with a forgiving fit on the tights, belly area and bottom. Fits a straighter and gently curvy body type quite well. The clever stretch is in the right place, and the thick fabric helps. They do not bag out. They are okay on larger calves when you wear a larger size. Available in longs and shorts. Tall girls should get the longs. They are NOT a casual ribbed corduroy, but a fun, on trend and very wearable velveteen. They look both casual and dressy. For me, they are an alternative to dark wash jeans that I wear at any time of day. NICE to change things up. The burgundy is less eggplant in person. The fit, length and drape is quite accurate in the video.

Floral Embroidery & Velvet Dots

A new outfit from Alison Gary of Wardrobe Oxygen, whom we introduced to YLF in June 2014.

Alison creates lots of outfit depth by combining pattern, texture and shine. She’s wearing slim black boyfriend jeans with a texture-rich burnout velvet top. Tucking the tunic-length top lengthens the leg line, while the tonal polka dot pattern in a rich midnight blue adds a playful touch. The flattering diagonal sleeves and V-neckline also help create vertical integrity. A belt with black crystal studs, and Alison’s patent pointy toe ankle boots provide shine and polish. Her eye-catching black leather biker jacket with colourful floral embroidery and silver studs mixes feminine with rocker vibes. A black leather tote, Alison’s soft curls, oversized hoop earrings and tomato red lipstick finish off this soft-edge look to perfection.

Alison Gary - 1

Alison Gary - 2

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Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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My Burgundy Capsule for Fall and Winter

This is my year for adding new (to me) colours to my wardrobe. First olive, and now burgundy. Neither have been “go-to” colours for me in the past. But I learned something about my style over the last few years: I crave a change in colour more than a change in silhouette. As a result, I’ve steadily been building a moderately sized wardrobe with a large assortment of neutrals and non-neutrals. 

The building process involves as much emotion as it does precision.

1. I listen to my feelings

For years, I didn’t feel like wearing olive or burgundy, despite their popularity. Items in these colours looked just fine on me, but they didn’t make me happy. I felt blah in olive, and burgundy reminded me of not so fab school uniforms. This year my emotions about both colours changed, and I listened. 

2. I have a high affinity for colour mixing

I enjoy combining all sorts of tonal, contrasting, complementary and “clashing” colours. Combinations that I find harmonious and happy, you might find unflattering, ugly or loud. Horses for courses, always.

3. I own a large assortment of neutrals

Having an assortment of both light and dark neutrals across a range of wardrobe items allows me to create a grounding support act for just about any colour. This is handy, versatile, and satisfies my need for outfit variety.

4. I think in terms of complements and capsules

I think about my wardrobe and outfits in terms of complements and mix-and-match capsules. My wardrobe items relate well to one another, and this makes the outfit creation a LOT easier. I make sure I add more than one item in a new colour to my wardrobe. That way, I can repeat the colour in a few places in the outfit, or create a tonal vibe from head to toe. These styling strategies make me feel more pulled together, and allow me to make a statement with a new colour.

The addition of burgundy was an accident at first. I fell in love with a pair of boots in my favourite shoe shop in Arnhem in the Netherlands while shopping with Inge a few months ago. In the bad light of the store, I thought they were dark brown, which would bookend my new dark brown specs perfectly. But as I walked into the natural light, I saw that the boots were a very rich Bordeaux. Well, they still bookended my specs, and I decided right then and there to add “burgundy” to my wardrobe.

Building a complement with the boots was the strategic plan, so I bought a burgundy patterned scarf. Now I had matching specs, boots and scarf to incorporate into outfits. I then unexpectedly found a belt with gold hardware that was a tonal match to the boots and scarf. Jolly lucky, and got that too. And being the bag lady that I am, I wanted to add a burgundy bag to complete the complement.

I thought about leaving the burgundy component of my wardrobe at that, wearing the colour in footwear and accessories only. But I’ve decided to try some burgundy tops and bottoms too. To start with, a simple turtleneck and a pair of trousers.

I’ve been wearing my burgundy items quite a bit already. My new boots are extremely comfortable, and have become workhorses. The complement of booties, belt, scarf and bag have been very easy to match with the navy, ink blue, dark blue denim, cream, white, tomato red and orange in my wardrobe. I don’t like burgundy quite as much with black and olive, but wear that combination too.

Here are the exact items in my wardrobe that I’ve been wearing with burgundy to create outfits.

COS
Tailored pleat trousers
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Top Pick
13
Boden
Velvet Emilia Blazer
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Top Pick
22
J.Crew
Faux-fur pom-pom
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Top Pick
8
Boden
Mirabelle Blazer
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Top Pick
31
COS
Roll-neck merino jumper
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Top Pick
24
COS
Long high-neck jumper
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Top Pick
13
J.Crew
Faux-fur pom-pom
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Top Pick
10

You have to be emotionally ready to add a new colour to your wardrobe. Once it feels right, you can begin the more strategic process of building complements and capsules so that you can easily integrate the new colour into outfits.

Outfit: Fabulous Proportions

I fell in love with the proportions of this outfit. The shapes and lengths of the silhouette, and the way the garments fit and drape, is gorgeous. The fabrics look substantial too. It’s relaxed and polished business casual without a jacket. Throw a dressy coat over the top and you’re good to go. I like the colour palette too. 

I adore the pairing of tailored structure and fluid flow. The flared bell-bottoms are fitted on the waist, hips and thighs, but flow with fluidity to the ground. Bless those perfect pant lengths. The pullover is fitted on the neck, shoulders, wrists and midsection, but flows fluidly and gently over the bust and most of the arm. The hip-bone length of the top lengthens the leg line from the hips down. The heeled booties further lengthen the leg line.

Chloé Pompom-embellished Knitted Sweater

The combination of tailored structure, fluidity, and a good amount of length on the bottom is a recipe for elegant dressing. The high neckline might not be your cup of tea, in which case you could substitute it with one of your choice. The short, fitted, broad welt on the pullover draws attention to the waist and belly area, which might not be your thing. In this case you could sub it with a pullover with a narrower welt that blousons over the midsection to conceal “lumpage and bumpage.”

This type of trouser does look magical with a heel, and the hems look luxurious when they almost scrape the surface of the ground. In my experience, a low heel of one and a half to two inches works just fine with my own bell-bottom trousers and jeans. You do need dry weather though, so that’s a drawback. 

Looking at this outfit, I’m reminded of how great I feel in my bell-bottom jeans and black trousers, AND how fresh things look compared to crops with booties. I need to be in the mood to wear my two inch cream boots that work perfectly with the pant lengths though, which I can no longer do all day. Still, I can replicate the look to some extent and will be on the lookout for a more affordable version of the pullover.

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