Link Love: News From the Fashion Week Sidelines

Starting this season, London Fashion Week is going fur-free, which means no animal fur will be used in any official runway show or presentation.

Claudia Li featured an all Asian model cast in showing her Spring 2019 collection. It’s being hailed as a monumental step forward in fashion’s diversity movement.

Vanessa Friedman, The New York Times’ fashion director, talks about what it’s really like to be at the shows.

Yahoo! Lifestyle reports that Queen Elizabeth II’s umbrella styling trick is now a fashion week trend.

Fab Links from Our Members

Vildy wanted to share this look at the underbelly of ‘effortless’ French fashion.

Annagybe found this article about ‘menocore’ very interesting, “because it does address the aspirational part of this style.”

Is there life after skinnies maybe, asks Jenn.

Fashintern thought this Vice piece about the secret signals of far-right fashion might interest people, and she’s curious if anyone has noticed these phenomena.

She also came across this article about hoarding disorder, which can relate to clothing, and lots of other things: “‘Hoarders fear making the wrong decision about what to keep and what to throw out, so they keep everything,’ says Dr Whomsley, who was one of the authors of the British Psychological Society guidelines on hoarding compiled in 2013.’

Brands That Deliver Consistent Quality

I recently complained about the fact that quality is consistently inconsistent these days, but there are exceptions to this trend. Here is a list of brands that have proved their commitment to quality to me and my clients over the years. The bar is high. The quality has been evident after many wash-and-wear cycles. After all, it’s all about how a garment, pair of shoes or an accessory wears and handles the laundry over time that truly makes its quality exceptional.

The list includes designer and non-designer brands. The price points are varied, and so are the styles.

  • Boden
  • Club Monaco
  • Reiss
  • Smythe
  • Karen Millen
  • L.K. Bennett
  • Furla (handbags in particular)
  • Kate Spade
  • Theory
  • Pendleton
  • Clarks
  • Frye
  • Aquatalia
  • Soia & Kyo
  • Elie Tahari (not Tahari)
  • Madewell
  • COS
  • Paul Green
  • Converse
  • Ecco
  • Birkenstock
  • 3.1 Philip Lim
  • A.L.C.
  • Chanel (handbags in particular)
  • Helene Berman
  • Peter Kaiser
  • Pikolinos
  • Hispanitas
  • Ray-Ban
  • The North Face
  • Zella (workout leggings in particular)
  • Brooks Brothers

Apart from Pendleton, Ecco and Birkenstock, these brands are represented in my own wardrobe and I will continue to be loyal to them. I’d buy from Pendleton, Ecco and Birkenstock if I could achieve a good fit with the brands. Alas, I can’t do that until they extend their size range or change their fits.

I also have superb quality items in my wardrobe by brands that aren’t on this list. In fact, some of them are thought to have extremely inconsistent quality. All washed and worn till the cows come home. A short toffee puffer from Zara that looks better than the Ralph Lauren equivalent. A floral Topshop frock that is one of my most frequently worn dresses ever. A navy lace dress from Banana Republic that is lined, machine washable and does not crease. A J.Crew tweed jacket that is made as well as a pricey Chanel. Zara gingham pants that look as pristine as it gets, don’t stretch or crease, and are machine washable. An $11 peplum tee from the Gap that blows me away. And two eight-year-old J.Crew coats that still look good, although I’ve had the linings fixed a couple of times. This was back in the day when J.Crew manufactured their coats in Italy, and the quality was fabulous.

Price is not a good indicator of quality, and for the most part, neither is the brand. The best we can do is make discerning decisions about quality before purchase, launder with care, and hope for the best.

By all means add to my list in the comments section.

Trend: Chocolate Brown Is Back

It’s taken twelve years for chocolate brown to return as a trendy neutral, and it’s about time. Strangely, it didn’t even feature as a fringe trend. Why the perfectly lovely neutral was banished from fashionable existence makes little sense. Let’s hope those days are over. 

Chocolate brown is the last dark neutral to join the party since navy and ink blue became fashionable constants alongside black and grey. I think shades of dark brown should be a neutral we see every season, because it’s another way of celebrating variety.

Chocolate brown comes in warm and cool variations, so there’s a shade for every complexion. Cool shades are laced with grey and blue, and warm shades with yellow and orange. It’s represented in most wardrobe items this season, as seen in the collection of items.

Zara
Hooded Coat
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Top Pick
3
Zara
Double Breasted Blazer
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2
Zara
Double-breasted Coat
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2
Zara
Pants With Side Vents
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3
Zara
Brown Briefcase
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5
Zara
Turtleneck Cape
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4
Zara
Belted Top
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4
Zara
Checkered Coat
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3
Zara
Lingerie-style Dress
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1
Zara
Contrasting Button Top
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Top Pick
2

Chocolate brown is a magical dark neutral that can create an assortment of personas. It is richer than black and warmer than grey. It can be as cool and military as dark blue. It can be as hard-edged as black and as preppy as navy.

Like all neutrals, shades of chocolate brown look splendid with other light and dark neutrals. Gone are the days that wearing black with brown is a faux pas. In fact, I can scarcely believe it was a faux pas since it’s always looked fab to me. It also looks fab with lighter shades of brown and white, and shades of dark blue.

You can wear chocolate brown with most other non-neutrals, depending on your affinity for colour-mixing, and your preferences. It looks amazing with other earth tones, sour brights, pastels, muddy colours and jewel tones. It’s not a neutral that requires much thought on how it will remix with the rest of your wardrobe, especially if you’ve built a complement or capsule with it.

Most of my clients like some shade of chocolate brown and will be happy to see it return to their wardrobes. For some, it’s their “black” and a favourite dark neutral. For some it’s brown in the form of patterns only, especially in leopard and snakeskin. For others it’s good in footwear, belts and bags.

It took a while, but I’m back to wearing chocolate brown. I’ve been building a complement with light blue and shades of white, and enjoying the fresh-for-me combination. I will also wear it with citron, chartreuse, tomato red, turquoise, shocking pink, toffee, cinnamon, blush, navy, ink blue and black. Not sure whether I will wear it with olive and burgundy, but maybe. The colour is VERSATILE.

Over to you. Do you like chocolate brown, and have you missed it? Will you wear it and in which wardrobe items?

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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T-Shirt Glam

A new outfit from Carelia Morán of My Small Wardrobe, whom we introduced to YLF in July 2013.

Carelia’s outfit combines four trends that are big for Fall 2018: earth tones, a midi skirt, animal print, and pattern mixing. She dresses up a simple tee with an elegant flowy midi skirt and pointy-toe pumps. Tucking the T-shirt elongates the leg line and creates structure. The neutral camel colour ties together the different shades of brown in the outfit, both cool and warm. The orange running through the zebra print on the skirt adds a playful touch. Carelia introduces a third pattern with her vintage lucite box bag which has a mother of pearl swirl pattern. The turquoise beaded multi-strand necklace then adds an unexpected pop of cool colour. Our blogger’s wavy locks — which complement the outfit colours splendidly — and red lipstick finish of this casual glam look.

Carelia Moran - 1

Carelia Moran - 2

The Full-Length Bootcut Is Back

For thirteen years, skinnies, jeggings, boyfriend jeans, wide legs, straight legs, culottes, and just about any silhouette cropped to above the ankle has reigned supreme in the bottoms department. Cropped flares are bootcuts at a deliberately shrunken length, but that’s it. The FULL-LENGTH bootcut just about disappeared after 2005. But it’s back on trend in 2018 as a nod to the ‘90s influence in fashion right now. I greatly appreciate that fashion is making a point of giving back all sorts of by-gone silhouettes their fashionable moment. It’s one way to celebrate diversity of style.

To be clear, bootcuts are fitted on the waist, hips, bottom, thighs and upper knee. They flare out from the lower knee to the hem giving the calves, ankles and feet some volume. They are not to be confused with wide leg pants that are worn wide from the hips and thighs down.

Of course, despite disappearing from the trend radar, bootcuts never went out of style. A handful of my clients continued wearing mid-rise bootcuts with cowboy boots and the like and they looked classic and fabulous. Bootcuts are especially popular with my curvy hourglass and pear-shaped clients, who feel that the wider hems balance out proportions. When they wear heels with extra long bootcut hems so that you can only see the tips of the feet and shoes, the long lean line is accentuated and flattering to their eye.

I do find low-rise bootcuts that were all the rage with premium California denim houses at the beginning of the ’00’s a little dated now. It’s subtle, but the length of the rise makes quite the difference in fashion. Mid-rise bootcuts look current, and high-rise bootcuts even more so.

I loved bootcuts, and wore them for years as the dominant denim silhouette for my style. I wore them with heels and made sure the hems almost swept the surface of the ground. I like full-length bootcuts and bell-bottoms VERY long because it looks luxurious and elegant. I have poison eye for bootcut hems that are shorter unless they’re intentionally cropped above the ankle and worn as cropped pants. Here are bootcuts worn with heels, and most of the hems are sufficiently long for my taste.

For 2018, wearing full-length bootcuts with flats is all the rage, and with sneakers and tucked or semi-tucked tops in particular. Showcasing the hips and waist by tucking the top or wearing a shorter top increases the length of the leg from the hips upward, which offsets the short-legged or dumpy feeling you might get when wearing full-length wide hems with flats. This collection showcases the point.

For the moment, I’m conflicted about full-length bootcuts for my own style. I’m enjoying how fresh they look amidst a sea of skinnies and cropped everything, but they have their disadvantages. I LOVE my two pairs of bell-bottom jeans that are wider at the hems than regular jeans. They swoosh and make me feel fab and Modern Retro. They require a higher heel than I wear daily, which is doable since I wear them for short periods of time. Dry weather is another prerequisite, but dodgy in Seattle where soggy hems are a reality. Wearing bootcuts with flats appeals to me but again, I need dry weather.

Since I spend quite a bit of time in dry Salt Lake City these days, full-length bootcuts might be practical. But the type of dressy, pretty and dainty footwear I like to wear is better suited to a tapered leg. I didn’t want to add back in the Tomboy vibe I wore five years ago, and I didn’t want to look overly casual.

Then I saw these bootcut chino pants worn with white sneakers and thought – super cute. As I said, conflicted!

Sanctuary Chino Pants

I need to try on some bootcuts with the type of flat footwear that suits my feet and lifestyle. I need to be able to wear the bootcuts with flats daily and feel fab doing so if I’m going to add them to my wardrobe. No more full-length flares to be worn with heels for special occasions because I have those already. That requirement is clear in my mind.

Over to you. How do you feel about full-length bootcuts? Did you wear them, and will you wear them again?