Sleeve Lengths and Figure Flattering Priorities

Whether it’s intuitive or deliberate, most of us have a set of figure flattering priorities. These are super specific outfit proportions that we adhere to because they make us feel confident, attractive and comfortable. This is where the PERSONAL in personal style becomes all important, because figure flattering priorities differ between people, and your own priorities may change over time.

Over the years, many of my clients, friends and family members have expressed extremely specific preferences when it comes to the lengths of sleeves on tops, knitwear and dresses. Here’s a summary of their thoughts and mine.

Sleeveless

Most of my clients will wear sleeveless tops and dresses, but not all of them will bare their arms. Some will cover up with a cardigan or jacket because they feel their arms aren’t sufficiently smooth or toned. Yet they stick to sleeveless because it’s more comfortable than layering toppers over sleeves. Some are fine to wear sleeveless in casual settings, but not in work or formal settings.

Cap or Grown-On Sleeves

A cap or grown-on sleeve is an extremely short sleeve that offers slightly more coverage than sleeveless, but not much. This is where many of my clients and I differ about what looks more flattering. To my eye, a cap sleeve is one of the hardest sleeves to look fab in because it cuts the top of the arm in an odd place and messes with the grounding effect of a shoulder line. It can visually broaden broad shoulders, and sometimes, make a large bust look larger. I prefer the clean and more cut-away lines of sleeveless if you’re going to bare your arms. That said, I am supportive of clients who like to wear cap sleeves because I am always on the side of the wearer. Cap sleeves can broaden a narrow shoulder line and offer just enough arm and underarm coverage to make them feel comfortable. And some clients feel that cap sleeves minimize the size of their larger busts. Interesting how we see different things.

Diagonal Sleeves

Diagonal sleeves are a mix of a short and a cap sleeve. They’re like an oversized and longer cap sleeve with a much looser fit around the upper arm. The hem of the sleeve creates a long diagonal line across the bicep, which is how it gets its name. The drapey fit and longer length of the diagonal sleeve make it easier to wear than a short tight-fitting cap sleeve. It also offers more coverage. The diagonal lines minimize the size of the bust, especially when the neckline is V-shaped or scooped. Furthermore, the diagonal integrity of the sleeve has a more interesting and structured visual effect than a wide short sleeve. Some of my clients will wear diagonal sleeves, but not sleeveless or short sleeves, precisely because of their visually flattering effects.

Short Sleeves

This is a sleeve length that finishes around the middle of the upper arm. Short sleeves can be streamlined or flared like flutter sleeves. Interestingly, apart from T-shirts, this is the sleeve length that my clients are the most fussy about. They are fast to find the length unattractive because it cuts their bicep at the widest part, and accentuates the size of a larger bust. Flared flutter sleeves are more forgiving, but you have to like a bit of ruffled flounce. Usually my clients prefer to wear shorter or longer sleeves.

Elbow Sleeves

These sleeves finish right on the elbow or an inch or so above it. Visually, I find them flattering because they cut the arm naturally in half. They offer a great bit of coverage, but are breezy nonetheless. They look streamlined, and don’t interfere with the bust line. That said, some of my clients feel quite the opposite. To them, elbow sleeves widen their arms, and draws attention to their bust. Again, those clients prefer to wear shorter or longer sleeves.

Three-Quarter Sleeves

I have two clients who won’t wear three-quarter sleeves, but the rest perceive it as a flattering length. One client feels that the length accentuates her already very long and narrow arms, and the other feels it makes her arms look short. Long sleeves are usually scrunched to a three-quarter length, which looks fabulous on all of us to my eye. Three-quarter sleeves are annoying to layer under long sleeve toppers though.

Bracelet Sleeves

Bracelet lengths are long sleeves that finish a few inches above the wrist bone so that you can showcase a bracelet or two or three in all their glory. You can showcase longer gloves too. I think bracelet lengths are great in certain wardrobe items because I like the look of accentuated wrists and arm candy. Conversely, most of my clients think they look off because they are neither here nor there. Too short for long sleeves and too long for three quarter sleeves.

Long Sleeves

I don’t know anyone who won’t wear a long-sleeved top or sweater, so this sleeve length goes down as the most popular and slam dunk flattering length. Some like the lengths to finish at the end of the wrist, while others prefer them a few inches longer. And some like to wear long sleeves scrunched to create a bracelet, three-quarter or elbow-length sleeve.

As far as my own style goes, I find all sleeve lengths flattering except the cap and grown-on sleeve. I seldom wear sleeveless items because I find them impractical, but I do like the way they look. I seldom wear diagonal sleeves because the armholes are too wide, but when I find a narrower version with structure, I like it. Visually, my favourite flattering sleeve lengths are elbow, three-quarter, and long. I often scrunch long sleeves because I like to showcase my forearms and wrists. I like a tailored short sleeve and a flutter sleeve too.

Over to you. Which are your favourite and most flattering sleeve lengths and why?

Fab Finds: Easy Dresses, Totes, Tops and Shoes

My clients and our forum members have been sharing some of their great finds recently, and I’m passing along their recommendations to you. They’ve seen the items in person, fitted them on, felt the fabrics, and done the road test, which counts for a lot. I’ve only seen some of the items, but I’m vouching for the rest too. Browse the colour options and be sure to read the reviews for some other points of view.

1. T-Shirt Dresses

A T-shirt dress can come in handy because it’s comfortable to wear, good in hot weather, just flattering enough, and easy to launder. Many are quite affordable too. It’s super casual, breezy, and fab for relaxed settings. Wear it to stay and work from home, run casual errands, sip a drink on the deck or patio, walk on the beach, or to socially distance outside with friends. Forum member Debbie wore the Target black T-shirt dress with animal print sneakers and a red tote and looked sensational! A curvy petite client rocks the Wilt T-shirt dresses in blue. I’ve tried some of the Marks & Spencer striped numbers and they are great. Awfully lightweight, good drape, nice finish, and flattering.

2. Bostanten and MZ Wallace Totes

These totes are practical, look good, and go the distance. The modern classic Bostanten bucket shoulder tote is $70, has several outside and inside pockets, and comes with a separate inner pouch for extra organizing. It does not have a full zipper closure, so it’s best for non-rainy weather. MZ Wallace’s soft quilted totes are pricey, and my friends and clients rave about their durability, sporty and chic appearance, robust zipper closures, and practical multiple pockets. Many can be converted to comfortable crossbody bags with broader straps.

3. Halogen Mesh Tops

Although mesh tops are polyester, my friends and clients wear them with pleasure, and I do too. They come in handy because they wear like iron, do not crease, are very lightweight, and are easy to launder. These from Halogen are good tops to wear on their own, or as layering pieces under jackets and cardigans. The patterns are fairly classic and versatile, which has its place. The fits are tailored, but not too clingy. Some of them look great tucked into bottoms, while others look best worn out. Some styles are opaque and others more see-through. They usually have them season after season, and are worth a second glance.

4. Dr. Scholl’s Footwear

Generally, Dr. Scholl’s makes comfortable shoes if we forget about those clacking wooden red and blue slides with statement buckle of the early ‘70s that did not bend. Their styles are fairly supportive and with cushioning footbeds. Silhouettes range from classic to trendy, with a distinctively casual vibe. It’s fun to see the on-trend espadrille hybrids come through too. Some of the uppers are made of recycled fabrics. Prices are relatively affordable, and especially on sale. Widths are medium, and some run a little narrow. Some silhouettes can work on a slightly wider foot.

Nordstrom
Scout Sandal
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Top Pick
5

Team Shorter or Longer Dress (or Skirt)

My recent dress capsule edit started a conversation in the comments section and our forum about the preferences for the lengths of hemlines. You bat for Team Shorter if you like to wear skirts and dresses at lengths above the knee-cap. You bat for Team Longer if you prefer to wear skirts and dresses on or below the knee-cap.

Unless there is a professional or personal dress code to adhere to, there is no right or wrong length. What counts are your sartorial preferences and figure flattering priorities, which are PERSONAL. The dress and skirt lengths that make you feel fabulous, attractive, confident, powerful and not self conscious, are the ones you should be wearing. These can change over time.

My clients run the gamut in their preferences for dress and skirt hemlines. Some only sport leg covering midis and maxis. Some like longer dresses and skirts for the office and formal occasions, but raise their hemlines for casual Summer settings and date nights. Some like lengths that hover just above the knee, and others like lengths that hover just below the knee. Some go mid-thigh and shorter because they like to showcase their legs. Others will go as short but with hosiery and boots to create some coverage. And some wear an assortment of lengths because they like them all.

I am most comfortable batting for Team Longer Dress and Skirt. My thighs and knees look just fine, but that’s not the point. Just because you can wear something doesn’t mean you should. I feel more attractive and confident in a longer hemline. I listen to my feelings, so these days it’s a personal figure flattering priority to cover my knees, but not the whole of my leg. I like to showcase my calves and ankles because I fancy the outfit proportions when I do. Sartorially, a longer hemline looks elegant, and that’s something I aspire to.

Over to you. Do you bat for Team Shorter or Team Longer Dress and Skirt, and tell us why. This time, feel free to bat for both teams just because.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Spotlight: Hope for Flowers by Tracy Reese

Tracy ReeseTracy Reese is an American fashion designer and entrepreneur. I’ve seen her gorgeous designs in Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, Anthropolgie and Neiman Marcus, and fitted them on clients on many a shopping trip. Her memorable New York Fashion Week shows were diverse, inclusive, colourful, pretty, dramatic, and I liked the Modern Retro integrity of her designs. I fondly remember the Tracy Reese pink dress and poppy dress that First Lady Michelle Obama wore at the Democratic National Convention and “The Freedom Ring” event. Classic, chic, and playfully bold.

Recently, though, the Tracy Reese pret-a-porter brand as we used to know it has been scarce at retail, and absent from NYFW. Little did I know that the designer had something extraordinary up her sleeve. While dialing back the original Tracy Reece brand, she was ramping up another. She started a new company called Hope for Flowers, which allows her to create sustainable and responsibly designed collections that focus on sustainable materials, ethical production, and hand work. The new company is based in Reese’s hometown of Detroit, and not in the Garment District of New York. Part of the collection is produced in a small factory in Flint, Michigan, which employs women who are re-entering the workforce and eager to learn new skills.

Tracy Reese explains that she couldn’t ignore the impact that her original brand was having on the environment, and wanted to do better. The Hope for Flowers label was born and speaks to Reese’s hopes for the planet. It is “designed for women who are inspired by beauty and also desire to use their power as consumers to be agents for positive change in the world.” Reese wants to keep production quantities small, ship fewer collections, and showcase them at select retailers instead of large global chains because as she puts it, “the world just does not need so much merchandise.”

As I browse the Hope for Flowers collection, I adore what I see. The same bright and crisp colours, soft fabrics, romantic patterns, and flowing silhouettes that were signature to the original brand are coming through. What a beautifully and meaningful way to evolve one’s designs in hope for a better future.

Hope For Flowers - 1

Hope For Flowers - 2

Hope For Flowers - 3

At the moment you can buy these designs at Anthropologie or on the the Hope for Flowers website. Sizes range from US0 to 14, and some styles are available in extended sizes. I had my eye on a gorgeously Summery tiered floral midi skirt, but it’s already sold out in my size. Clearly, I’m not the only one enamoured by the designs of this empowering and sustainable collection.

Outfit Formula: Casually Neutral Three-Piece

After last week’s hectically bright, patterned, and dressier outfit formula, it’s on to something neutral, relaxed and casual. These looks have a third piece — a jacket — because even when it’s hot outside, it’s handy to cover up in air conditioning, by the water, or when there’s a crisp chill in the air in the morning or evening. And in some casual office settings, you might want a jacket when you go into a meeting. Make sure you like the outfit without the topper too.

These toppers are for the most part utility-inspired, but feel free to make them gauzy cardigans or denim jackets instead. Choose any neutral colour palette.

1. Column of Black and Tan Topper

Combine a black skirt and top with a tan or olive utility jacket, and finish off the look with black sandals or slides. Easy! Here, the black buttons of the jacket effectively pick up the black of the separates. A casual black dress would work as well, and so would a pair of black cropped pants or shorts. A statement necklace will break up the black when you take off the jacket.

M&S Collection Tiered Midi Slip Skirt

2. Grey and White

Combine a white tee or shell top with Summery grey pants, and a white or cream topper. Add casual Summery footwear like slides, mules or sandals. The black slides here bookend the model’s hair beautifully, but you could go for shades of brown, white or metallic instead.

M&S Collection Evie Straight Leg Checked 7/8 Trousers

3. Denim Skirt and Espadrilles

Although I don’t wear heels or straight skirts, this one is my favourite of the four perhaps because of the addition of crisp blue denim. Combine a denim skirt with a black top like a tee, and top it off with a neutral utility jacket. Add wedged espadrilles that work with the palette and make a footwear statement. Scrunching jacket sleeves adds a relaxed vibe to the look.

MS& Collection Denim Midi Skirt

4. Blazered Athleisure

And last, combine a pair of earthy joggers with a black or white tee, and top things off with a Summery linen or cotton blazer. Semi-tuck the top for some structure, and to lengthen the leg line. Scrunch the sleeves of the blazer to relax the look. Add sandals like Birkies that work with the palette of the outfit. These white Birkies work well with the white top and striped blazer. White sneakers will work well too. Add jewellery, watch and eyewear as desired.

M&S Collection Tencel Utility Tapered Trouser