Outfit Formula: Draped Looks

These outfit ideas are for Team Drape, which is all about voluminous fits, cascading layers, loads of drape, and just enough structure in the right places. These are not traditionally flattering proportions that create waist definition, a streamlined silhouette, a long leg line, or showcase curves. Instead, these proportions often do the opposite, which can be an acquired taste. 

Personally, I find these looks flattering in an avant-garde, interesting, arty, comfy, and fun way. They can also be useful when you don’t want to draw attention to the outline of your figure. Some of my clients thoroughly enjoy dressing this way, and they span a range of body types and sizes. It’s a look that is beyond body type, and everyone can wear a version of it if they are so inclined.

Two of the looks here have toppers and two don’t. Choose any colour palette, and create your own versions of the vibe.

1. Draped Jacket and Draped Pants

A pair of drapey and very roomy lantern pants is combined with a soft and fluid white knitted top which is worn untucked. It’s topped with a roomy draped jacket that has a bit of a fishtail. Keeping the jacket open creates a vertical line down the centre front of the body, which draws the eye up and down. The white footwear is a good choice because it picks up the white in the top and in the patterned topper. The repetition creates effective outfit cohesion, pulling the look together. The lantern pants, although very wide, taper a little at the ankle, creating very subtle structure.

Daped Jacket and Draped Pants

2. Tunic and Lantern Pants

A patterned tunic is combined with a pair of lantern pants in a complementary pattern. The colour palettes of both patterns are the same, which pulls the look together. The asymmetrical hemline on the tunic is a clever way of adding subtle structure to the outfit. The short length on the one side of the tunic showcases more of the pants, thereby drawing the eye up and down which elongates the leg line. If the tunic was one long length, the leg line would look shorter because most of the pants are covered. Summery sandals complete the breezy vibe.

Tunic and Lantern Pants

3. Mega Volume over Lean Bottoms

This is the most voluminous and drapey top of the lot, and quite architectural. Tent Fabness! Its volume is greatly tempered by the addition of a slim and straight skirt, thereby creating a good bit of tailoring. Heeled footwear would look great here, but I do like that they showed the outfit with flat slides that add a relaxed, modern, and Summery touch. The high-contrast black slides bookend the model’s hair, which works well to my eye. That said, a pair of low-contrast slides would have created a longer leg line by offsetting the cutting horizontal lines of the black. If there was more black in the outfit, the black slides would work even better.

Mega Volume-over-Lean Bottoms

4. Triple Drape

Three items with varying amounts of drape are combined to create this splendid look. The high contrast between the three items packs a lot of punch, and the draped effect adds busloads of interest. To my eye, the perfect LENGTHS and FITS of the three garments go a long way to making the look sensational through subtle emphasis of figure-flattering proportions. Details like the tailored fit on the shoulders of the jacket and the slim-fit sleeves add effective outfit structure. The white untucked layering top isn’t too long, which lengthens the leg line from the hips upward. The jacket isn’t that long, which further lengthens the leg line from the hips upward. And the lines created by the cascading layers of the topper, and the shark bite hem of the top do their magical diagonal line thing. The silver sandals are a pretty low-contrast finishing touch, and the pendant necklace adds vertical integrity. Beautiful relaxed elegance.

Triple Drape

Purchasing the Same Item in Multiple Colours

Purchasing multiples of a wardrobe item is something we tend to do with wardrobe basics, which are items like panties, bras, camisoles, thermals, socks, sleepwear, loungewear, hosiery, and workout wear. I have several multiples of these items in rotation at once, which makes things easy to replenish. 

Personally, I’ve also found it effective to purchase multiples across items other than wardrobe basics. When I find a fabulous item that works seamlessly well with the rest of my wardrobe, and budget permitting, I purchase multiples of that item across an assortment of colours. There is something about the uniformity and repetition of the item weaving through my look that I find appealing. The repetition strengthens my signature style. It’s a time and energy saver, and a low-risk wardrobe addition. If something works well, milk it.

I sometimes purchase multiples of an item in one go, but more often I add the rest during sale time. If the items are an ongoing repeat style by a well-known brand, I add additional colours season after season. This is particularly true of footwear, where I am very set in my ways.

I seldom wear all the colours of an item with equal frequency. I’m fine with that because wardrobe items don’t need to work equally hard, and I enjoy having options. Also, most of the items I buy in multiples are simple Modern Classics, despite their bright colour. This gives them a little more wardrobe longevity, and I don’t tire of the silhouette.

Here are some examples from my current wardrobe.

1. Banana Republic Ribbed Sweater

I have this item across five colours because it’s very easy to pair with my assortment of trendy jeans, skirts, and dressy bottoms. It layers well under toppers, looks good with scarves and pearls, has a fab structured welt, and the gently fluid fit is versatile and flattering.

2. Banana Republic Essential Leather Sneakers

I got the white with the pink soles two years ago. They fit well, go the distance for my urban walking lifestyle, and I adore their refined vibe. They were such a hit that at sale time a year later I added the citron pair (a signature colour for my style.) Recently, I was looking for a simple pair of clean and crisp white sneakers to replace a battered wardrobe essential. It was an easy decision to simply add them in white. Tried, tested, and on sale. A no-brainer. I wear the pink and citron equally, and the white will soon become workhorses too.

3. ECCO Soft 7 Sneakers

With strategically placed cushioning insoles, I was able to make these sneakers perfectly fit my low-volume feet. My word, they are extremely comfortable, so much so that I duplicated the blush for at-home-only shoes. The wardrobe essentials were instant workhorses, so I got the white and citron the next year. I added the orange after that, and the light blue last. The blush, white and citron are worn the most frequently, and the light blue next. The orange are the least worn. The citron and blush pair are old, a bit battered, and will need to be retired next year.

4: Furla Handbags

Handbags are my favourite wardrobe item, and a practical necessity for my style because I walk almost everywhere and need my stuff with me at all times. I have many handbags and most of them are Furlas. I have been collecting them for years, and steadily add more colours to the assortment. I have three styles of Furla handbags across multiple colours. The citron is the most frequently used, the rest are used equally and seasonally across the year.

5. Commes des Garcon PLAY Cotton Button-Up Shirt

I’m a shirt gal because it’s a slam dunk for my body type, and a crisp, polished way to wear a simple and versatile top. Dressier than a T-shirt, but not as dressy as a blouse. I waited a long time to add these to my wardrobe because they are pricey. I saved up, and splurged on these impeccably made Japanese shirts. I am absolutely thrilled with them. I got the white first and the striped blue later. I suspect I will wear both equally.

6. Hobbs Hackness Wool Jacket

I eventually passed on my old Smthye blazers because I never wore them. They were shades of grey, overly structured, and no longer sparked joy. I need blazers that allow me to move more freely when I’m running errands on foot with Yorkie Sam in tow, and soon Yorkie Jo too. So instead I reached for my more comfortable playful Boden blazers, and the green Hobbs blazer shown here. The shorter length of the Hobbs blazer is something I really enjoy because proportions look better to my eye with the roomier and high-waisted bottoms I’m wearing. The fit and quality are exceptional too. Colourful blazers work better for my style than neutral ones, so at sale time six months later I added the red. I wear both frequently.

Hobbs
Hackness Wool Jacket
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Hobbs
Hackness Wool Jacket
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7. Banana Republic Super Soft Crew Neck Sweater

Last year I added the turquoise pullover to my knitwear capsule because its cropped and welted style works well with my range of wider and high-rise jeans and pants. Adding turquoise to my wardrobe was a style goal so that was an easy addition. I loved the fit and feel of the sweater so I added one in my signature colour at a greatly reduced price later. I wear both equally.

8. Boden Westmoreland Sweater

I bought the turquoise one first to fulfill a style goal. You can’t see it clearly from the stock photo, but it has a very pretty lantern sleeve that layers unexpectedly well under coats and jackets. It also has a very neat neckline and isn’t too long in the length. Because I also had to replenish a navy pullover wardrobe essential that year, it was easy to simply add one in navy too. I wear the turquoise more than the navy because I LOVE the colour.

Boden
Westmoreland Sweater
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Boden
Westmoreland Sweater
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9. Banana Republic Pointy-Toe Robin Ballet Flat

I adore the look of dainty ballet flats but it’s hard to find a comfortable pair that stay on my feet. I stumbled across the watermelon pair that worked unexpectedly well on deep discount five years ago, and couldn’t believe my luck. I got the red a few months later on even deeper discount. I walk a lot, and am hard on my shoes so they’re a bit beaten up. But I cannot give up these highly elusive items yet. I wear the watermelon a little more often than the dark red.

10. Franco Sarto Jolette Penny Loafer

I enjoy the look of a classic and refined penny loafer as much as a pretty ballet flat, so when I found a comfortable white pair that fit well, I bought the red and blush pairs shortly afterwards. The white are a wardrobe essential, and the most frequently worn. And this is my second pair in the white. The red is worn next frequently and then the blush, which is why they are in better shape than the white.

11. Sylver BIG Polka Dot Scarves

I bought these in a boutique in the Netherlands over the course of three years. I got the cream polka dots first, and it’s a workhorse. It creates a fab complement with my cream boots and hi-tops. Polka dots are my thing, so I got the green the next year, but didn’t wear it that much. I got the navy the year after that, and it became an instant workhorse. The good news is that the green scarf is an almost exact match with my new avocado Hobbs jacket, giving it a new lease of life.

12. Wallaroo Petite Victoria Sun Hat

My small head is hard to fit, and usually, I need to shop in the children’s department for headgear. But I found this great packable sunhat for small heads and bought the classic tan first. I rather fancied the look of a white straw hat for my beach and pool capsule, so instead of looking for one, I simply duplicated the same hat in white.

I hadn’t thought about it until I wrote this post, but my style seems to do well with multiples of the same item across an assortment of colours. This surprised me, as I hadn’t thought of myself as a buyer of multiples. I guess it’s a way of creating simplicity, discipline, and familiarity across the explosion of colour, pattern, and silhouette in my wardrobe. Duplicates are easy, tried-and-tested options, and a way to milk the benefits of something that has already earned its place in your wardrobe.

Over to you. Do you purchase multiples of items across colours? Or are you all about the power of one?

Pleated Pants: Yay or Nay

Trousers, jeans and shorts that are pleated in front and just below the waistband have been around for ages. I remember them best from the ‘80s and early ‘90s and wore them frequently back then. I especially loved my long dressy pleated linen shorts, pleated paper-bag waist jeans, and pleated white cotton pants. Pleated pants were completely mainstream and most people wore a version of them. The mid ‘90s arrived and front pleated bottoms disappeared. Flat fronts with mid to low rises ruled the roost for a very long time. I enjoyed wearing those silhouettes too.

Slowly, but surely, higher rise bottoms with front pleats came back into fashion as a very, very fringe trend. I loved the silhouette back in the ‘80s, so I bought into the fringe trend almost immediately with a pair of black silk harem pants that are still going strong thirteen years later. Over the years, I’ve added more pairs of pleated pants with higher rises to my pants capsule. As long as the rises aren’t too high, the fabric drapes well, the pockets don’t pull, and the seat is fairly tailored, I find the style extremely comfortable, flattering, and a good fit. I like the roominess around my thighs and crotch point, and the structure around the waist. I don’t mind the pouf when seated. I like to semi-tuck and tuck tops into pleated pants to showcase the waist detailing. I have also worn fluid, soft and boxy untucked tops over pleated pants for a less structured look.

I vote YAY. Here is my current collection of pleated pants, and I’m open to a new pair, maybe in red, white, or denim:

Many of my clients and friends are a nay on pleated trousers, jeans and shorts, despite having worn them in the ‘80s. Their main concern is that the front pleats pouf out thereby adding “bulge and volume” instead of streamlining the midsection. Or the pleats create focus around an area they would prefer not to draw attention to. Another concern is the higher rise, and feeling blocky with a short waist, and especially with a larger bust. Some don’t like the higher rise and volume on the thigh area, and others simply have poison eye for pleated pants. I am always on the side of the wearer, and understand these concerns.

On the other hand, some of my clients do enjoy wearing pleated bottoms. They cover a range of body types, sizes and heights. Those with wider thighs and hips and narrower waists are all too happy to wear a style that curves with their curves instead of trying to make a straight cut work with lots of alteration. The pleats create a roomier thigh fit, which can be very appealing, as is the nipped-in waist. They also style their pleated bottoms with UNTUCKED tops sometimes, which gives them a flattering thigh fit, a longer waist, and hides most of the bulge and pouf of the pleats.

Pleated trousers, jeans and shorts are still a fringe trend. I don’t expect them to go mainstream, but you never know. The silhouette has gained momentum over the last few years. Sometimes with a paper-bag waist. It’s best to take the pleated pants style by style, because some pleats lie more flat and look more streamlined than others. Some pleats are small and subtle, whereas others are very poufy. Fabric that drapes well helps too. The collection below shows many variations on the pleated pants theme.

Shopbop
IRO Chiqui Pants
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Shopbop
ADEAM Hakama Pants
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Shopbop
Closet Ivo Pants
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Eloquii
Pleat Front Pant
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Mango
Pleated Linen Short
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Eloquii
Pleated Crop Pant
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Over to you. What’s your take on pleated pants, and do you wear them? Do you feel similarly to me, or side with most of my clientele?

Eloquii Pleat Detail Trouser

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Trend: Padded Shoulder Tank

Sleeveless tops with strong shoulders started coming through a year and a half ago as a very fringe trend. Since then, the trend has gained momentum although it’s by no means mainstream. The padded shoulder tank is simply a fluid tank top or muscle T-shirt with padded shoulders. Sometimes there are extra details, like pleated shoulder seams, draped necklines, and keyhole necklines. The size of the shoulder pads can vary, as can the colours and patterns.

An assortment of padded shoulder tank tops for your viewing pleasure:

Eloquii
Drama Shoulder Tee
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Eloquii
Drama Shoulder Tee
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The padded shoulder tank top has a strong ‘80s vibe. In fact, some of them look like they’ve been transported through a time capsule. I like them because I love the ‘80s and I like shoulder pads! There is something futuristic about the silhouette that is playful and fun. To my eye, the versions with the more subtle shoulder pad and draped fabric exude elegance, thereby bringing out the allure of the arm and shoulder. As breezy as a sleeveless top, but not as exposed.

ASOS Only Curve Tank

Visually, the silhouette creates a strong and square shoulder line that is quite architectural. That can work well for narrow and/or sloped shoulders. Conversely, I’ve seen the silhouette work well on broad and square shoulders. Somehow, the fluid drape of the fabric across the shoulder and top part of the arm tempers a broad shoulder line.

The idea is to wear them just like you’d wear a regular T-shirt. I don’t wear T-shirts, but I like this silhouette a lot. I’ve seen some woven shirt versions and might give that a whirl. I assume I’ll be able to easily layer a jacket over the top, but will be sure to check. Over to you. What do you think of the padded shoulder tank?

Spotlight: B New York

B New York is a responsible, eco-friendly, and ethically produced women’s wear label made from sustainable materials. The brand believes that less is more, that clothing should be modern, timeless and last for more than a season, and that you shouldn’t have to sacrifice beauty for sustainability

Their motto: BE EFFORTLESS. BE CONSCIOUS. BE YOU.

B New York tries to incorporate organic and recycled materials such as up-cycled plastic bottles and containers into its collections whenever possible. This in turn helps reduce energy consumption, water usage, and greenhouse gasses. The brand shares that it uses recycled polyester, recycled trim, and organic natural fibres in its garments, and is committed to environmentally conscious manufacturing practices.

I see a whole lot of casual, comfortable, and neutral fabness in the brand’s handwriting. I see interesting garment detailing, simplicity, and a likeness to Eileen Fisher. Items are relaxed, mostly fluid, mostly solid, quite drapey, and sometimes oversized. They look versatile and appropriate for a casual or smart casual lifestyle, and a retired or work-from-home life too. That said, you can dress up some of the tops and toppers for a less casual vibe. You can add a maximal outfit support act to the simple integrity, if that’s more your cup of tea.

Sizes run from an XS to XL, making the brand less size-inclusive than I had hoped. From some of the reviews, toppers run big, so you might need to size down. The brand is available from its own site, and at Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. Prices are a little more than regular US chain stores, but items do go on sale, and especially at Macy’s. Items are less expensive than Eileen Fisher, but they don’t do petites. Alek Wek is the brand’s ambassador, and I enjoyed her musings.

I really like the look of the cotton Tie-Sleeve High- Low Top, which reminds me a bit of a COS vibe. It’s a style goal to add more white Spring and Summer woven tops to my wardrobe so I ordered it. It’s voluminous, but with structure in all the right places, so I was hopeful it would work. But I needed a size down, which they do not offer. It was gorgeous and well made. Nice fabric, great sleeve detail, and quite architectural.

B New York Linen Zip Jacket