Learning From a Shopping Mistake

I’ve made many shopping mistakes in the past, but I learn from them and make fewer over time. When I do make one, it’s almost always with footwear. That held true in 2021 with a pair of sneaker oxford hybrids from Cole Haan. 

I got these metallic darlings with crisp white soles to wear with a dressy Hugo Boss pants suit, or with white jeans. When I tried them on, they looked and felt good, although a little wide. Adding an insole solved the width problem. I tried them on again, and they fit even better. I threw the box away and sprayed them with weatherproofing protectant. I was excited to wear them.

But when I put them through their paces walking the doggies and running errands on foot, they starting feeling too short. My long toes curled up, cramped up, and went a little numb. The shoes were not comfortable at all. I tried removing the insole to see if that would help, but it didn’t. I have no idea why these shoes suddenly feel too short. I’ve re-fitted them on several times at home since I got them in August last year, and the result is the same. Too short, and unhappy feet.

I paid full price and they weren’t inexpensive. I was pretty sure they would be a slam dunk for my high maintenance feet, so it’s disappointing and annoying. What a waste of money. Despite trying to make the best informed decision about a new pair of shoes before committing to them, they didn’t work out. Road-testing them is the ultimate test, and unfortunately you usually can’t return shoes after you’ve worn them outside.

I’m not in the habit of consigning wardrobe items, or selling them on eBay. So my choices are to keep them and wear them for short periods of time with discomfort (which I doubt I will do). Or to pass them on to someone who will wear them with joy. In the meantime, I’ve learned that my long toes need more room than I think they do, and especially in the length. I need to be even pickier about shoes that earn a place in my wardrobe because when you commute on foot like I do, shoes have to go the distance, and you expect more of them. Onward to a more comfortable pair of shoes with ample length for my long toes.

Editing My Knitwear Capsule

One of my style goals this year is to re-evaluate my tired capsule of knitwear and replace items as needed. This used to be a simpler process, but has become complicated because of inconsistent quality and sustainability concerns. 

I wear a lot of knitwear because I run cold and live in a four-season climate. It is by far my largest capsule of tops, and likely to stay that way. Fabrics range from wool and cashmere, to cotton and blends with synthetic fibres. As much as I try to buy great quality knitwear and look after it so that it does not pill, shrink or stretch out — there are few guarantees. Knitwear quality is a crapshoot these days.

Pilling

I loathe the look of pilled knitwear. Years ago, as soon as knitwear pilled — which could be after one season — I’d pass on the items if the cleaners couldn’t fix the problem. I don’t pass on knitwear as swiftly these days because it’s more sustainable to keep wardrobe items for longer.

These days I de-pill my own knitwear to the best of my ability, which keeps items going for more seasons. Knitwear thins the more I de-pill it, so it’s a trade-off. De-pilling does not make my knitwear look perfect, and I can damage sweaters by de-pilling too vigorously. But generally, there is enough of a visual improvement that it allows me to wear de-pilled knitwear for longer.

When pilling looks bad and I cannot improve it, items are passed on. This is by far the main reason I pass on knitwear.

Shrinking and Stretching

Knitwear that has shrunk a little at the cleaners or after I’ve laundered it, is usually blocked back into a perfect fit after pressing with a steam iron. If items have shrunk too much, I pass them on. I am very careful when I launder, and this seldom happens.

Knitwear that stretches out of shape and becomes too big is passed on immediately because there is nothing that I can do about it. I am a stickler for perfect fit and will not wear an item that fits poorly, so there is no sense in keeping it. Sometimes I try tumble-drying the item to shrink it, but this seldom works.

Holes

Knitwear with holes is passed on. I’ve tried mending the holes, and have had them professionally mended, both with unsatisfactory results. I’ve considered covering the holes with decorative patches, badges, and embroideries, but so far, the aesthetic does not tickle my fancy. That might change in future and I’m keeping an open mind.

Dysfunctional Fabric and Design

I am very sensitive to itchy fabric, and I make sure that new items pass the skin test before I commit to them. But every so often, knitwear items are more itchy than I remember them to be, and when that happens they are passed on right away.

Very occasionally, a knitwear silhouette does not work after I’ve put it through its paces. I can’t return it or alter it, but I can’t keep on wearing it either. I learn from the mistake and pass it on.

Fading and Discolouration

Sometimes, my bright or navy knitwear item loses its vibrancy. Or white knitwear goes grey and yellow. I don’t re-dye items, so I tend to pass them on. It takes a while for that to happen though. Knitwear is much more likely to be passed on because of out of control pilling than anything else.

Dated

I don’t pass on knitwear because it might look dated to someone else. First, my knitwear is on the classic and trendy classic side, so to my eye it has a high longevity factor. I don’t tire of the types of silhouettes, colours, and patterns I wear which is a big plus. If knitwear is in great condition, but I’m not feeling the colour for a season or two, I keep the item. This happened with my burgundy pullover, which I didn’t wear for two years. My affection for burgundy was rekindled and I happily wear the fab turtleneck again.

With all of this in mind, I’ll soon be thoroughly editing my knitwear capsule (see the collection below). Knitwear with holes, and itchy knitwear has been passed on already. I’ll make thoughtful additions and replacements, and refresh with some new solids too. I’ll also continue to wear some items until they are replaced — like my old white cotton pullovers and citron knitwear — because it’s hard to find a replacement for those workhorses.

Boden
Muriel Sweater
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Top Pick
24
Boden
Cashmere Crew Sweater
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13
Zara
Geometric Jacquard Top
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8
COS
Cashmere jumper
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14
COS
Roll-neck merino jumper
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25
Boden
Bella Cashmere Hoodie
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29
COS
Silk-cotton Polo Shirt
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13
Boden
Antonia Sweater
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18
Boden
Estella Sweater
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11
Boden
Westmoreland Sweater
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10
Boden
Westmoreland Sweater
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6
Everlane
The Cashmere Crew
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Top Pick
7

Create a List Of Your Brands

I mentioned in my style goals for 2022 that I’m prioritizing clothing, footwear, and accessory brands that generally work well for my sartorial preferences, body type, budget, quality expectations, and conscience. That way my style stays focussed, shopping time is reduced, items are more easily replenished and replaced, and I’m set up for success when shopping online

Instead of keeping a running list in my head of the brands, I’ve typed them out so that important ones don’t fall off my radar when I haven’t bought from them for a while. That way I can easily refer to the list, and add new brands as I find them through my shopping adventures.

To get the list of my brands, I went to my wardrobe page in YLF Finds, where apart from wardrobe basics like undies, loungewear, socks and workout wear, my current wardrobe is accurately recorded and updated. I listed the brands of the items in my wardrobe and popped them into Clothing, Footwear, Accessory and Basics categories. I also added brands that have worked well for me in the past, but aren’t currently represented in my wardrobe.

Of course, brands that work well for me now can change their fits, commitments to quality assurance, ethical values, and handwriting, making them unsuitable in future. While I prioritize and am loyal to the brands that generally generate joy and give me the biggest bang for my fashion buck, I am very open to looking at new brands. I will carefully but happily add them to my list if the items make the cut.

Maybe you’ve created a list of your brands, or have another way of remembering brands that tend to work for you. Or you might prefer to leave things up to chance as you replenish and update your wardrobe. Maybe you just enjoy trying new-to-you brands more than I do. Let us know in the comments below.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Two-Way Zippers: Yay or Nay

A two-way zipper can be opened from both the top and the bottom of the zip. They are sometimes called double or dual zippers. A two-way zipper can function like a normal zipper, opening or closing the garment completely from either end. They are most common on coats and jackets, but also found on tops and cardigans. 

The two-way zipper allows you to unzip the bottom part of the garment while the the top part stays zipped up. That way you have extra room on the bottom of a coat or jacket as you stride, facilitating movement. It can be more comfortable to sit, or drive in a coat or jacket that unzips at the bottom if you prefer to keep things zipped up.

I remember wearing fluidly structured cardigans with two-way zippers back in the ‘90s and loving them for layered looks. I liked the way I could create structure around my shoulders and torso by keeping the top part zipped, but show what I was wearing underneath by unzipping the bottom part. I’d wear that look again.

Currently, three of my puffers have two-way zippers. They are handy for the longer silhouettes because the extra room that is created by unzipping the bottom zipper a little is welcome when walking. I leave the last button of some of my wool coats un-buttoned for the same practical effect. I don’t use the two-way zipper on my short puffer. It’s usually completely zipped through like the product photo.

The two-way zipper is a functional and practical design feature that I enjoy, so I’m a YAY. That said, it’s not a dealbreaker if my zippered coats and jackets have a one-way zipper. Most of them do, and they work well. Some of them have both buttons and zippers — like the raincoats — in which case I use the buttons to close the topper, but leave the last button un-buttoned to create a two-way zipper effect.

Over to you. What are your thoughts on clothing with two-way zippers? Do you like them, and use them, or doesn’t it matter.

Outfit Formula: Coat Column

Seattle was frozen for most of Christmas and New Year, which is not the norm. It’s been wet, grey and bitterly cold, and I’ve been wrapping up. I hauled out my super warm navy Canadian puffer from Soia & Kyo, Uniqlo HEATTECH undies, cream Sperry snow boots, an assortment of beanies, and my red gloves and Furla. Since I wore woolly turtlenecks, there was no need to wear a scarf because the coat zips up high and covers my neck. I felt comfortable, fab, and casually pulled together walking Yorkies Sam and Jo in the ice and snow, and running errands on foot. No driving.

I wore both pairs of dark blue cuffed jeans throughout the deep freeze, which created a column of navy with the puffer. The cuffed jeans are a practical length. Long enough to cover my snow boots and toasty socks, and short enough to stay dry. A crossbody bag is essential for city life, and mine matched my gloves. Beanies prevent earache, and I matched mine to the navy and cream in my outfit. Or I threw in a mismatched bright beanie like citron or orange. My light blue specs feel adequately “neutral” with my outfits.

Here are the exact items from my wardrobe:

I like to wear columns of neutrals or non-neutrals, where the bottoms match the coat or jacket, and sometimes my top and footwear too. I can do this with red, turquoise, orange, cream, and navy at the moment because I have the bottoms to match the coats. In time I’d like to create columns of colour with citron, shocking pink, blush, light blue, and burgundy.

Meanwhile, here are some Wintery columns in colours that are easier than wearing brights from head to toe. Since the point is to match bottoms and coat, colours like black, grey, teal, navy, and earth tones are easier column creations.

1. Navy

Create a column of navy by combining dark blue jeans or trousers with a navy coat. Complete the look with black or navy footwear. You could wear a black or navy sweater under the coat, and add a navy or black scarf, hat and gloves to amplify the column. Add a black or navy bag, and wear toasty socks. Or do what I do, which is create a column of navy with jeans and coat, and add another neutral and some colour for the rest of the outfit components.

Navy

2. Cinnamon

Create a column with a cinnamon pair of bottoms, sweater, and topper. Add footwear and accessories that work with the outfit. If matching the cinnamons is tricky, mismatch them a little, or create a column with low-contrast earth tones. The bootcut silhouette looks fresh, and very ‘90s.

Cinnamon

3. Black

Create a column of black by combining black jeans or pants with a black coat and boots. Here, the cream sherpa lining breaks up the black with a nice bit of classic contrast. Cream boots that match the sherpa would work well too. Add Winter accessories in black, another neutral, or pop of colour.

Black

4. Teal

Create a column by combining teal bottoms with a matching teal coat. The top can be a shade, tint, or tone of teal, or a pattern that has some teal in it. Black boots and bag are a great addition especially if the teal is dark, and the pattern has some black in it too. Add jewellery, eyewear, headgear and watch as desired.

Teal