Men are rarely required to wear suits to work every day – “business casual” has become the norm. However, every so often gents are faced with a formal dress code and don’t know what to do. Hiring a tux is one way out, but not always called for.

Men’s’ suiting, and the trims that go along with it can be pricy – how does one go about making this investment if one wears suits infrequently? Here are some guidelines on the “one suit wardrobe” for gents:

• Colour – if you have a “once a year” suit requirement, invest in a charcoal grey single-breasted 2 or 3 button suit with flat front trousers to match. Buy it in heavier weight wool. You’ll be able to cover all your bases with this option by dressing it up or down. If you are blonde and very fair, consider dark navy instead of dark grey – this might be more flattering. If you like, a subtle self-colour pinstripe is a more current option.
• Brand – suit prices can range from $400 to $2000. My recommendation would be to buy nothing cheaper than a suit from Banana Republic, Brooks Brothers or J. Crew if you are budget conscious. In this way – you will be guaranteed an optimum level of quality (after all “boys need to buy better”). If you have more to spend, consider Hugo Boss, Joseph Aboud and Armani Collezioni.   
• Black suits – it is not necessary to have a black suit in your wardrobe. Black suits are for funerals, ultra formal occasions, tremendously trendy events and gangsters. They are often inappropriate for anything else unless you have the knowledge on how to wear one correctly.
• Shoes and trims – you’ll need to match your suit up with a narrow black and “finer in appearance” leather belt and formal shoes – preferably with a bit of sheen. Rubber soled loafers will not do. A white dress shirt is conservative, but a safe and professional option. If white is not your colour – opt for French blue. You cannot go wrong with a tie that has a small geometric print or bold diagonal stripe. You’ll be able to mix and match your shirt and shoes with your jeans, which will make it easier on your conscience when you invest.
• White t-shirt – it’s a good idea to wear a white “undergarment t-shirt” under your dress shirt (bought in the underwear area). It defines the colour of the shirt that you are wearing and soaks up unsightly armpit perspiration (instead of your shirt).

Your suit, shirt and tie requirement will change as your need to wear formal suiting increases. Once your wardrobe extends beyond a single suit you can afford to get more daring and trendy. How to spend your money wisely and how to build a stylish suiting assortment will be topic of many a blog entry to follow!

On the left, charcoal grey wool suits from Calvin Klein and Alfani (available at Macy’s). Safe and professional options with white dress shirt and diagonal stripe tie,  or with French blue dress shirt and geometric tie. On the right, a slightly more stylish option: charcoal grey wool suit with sheen from Hugo Boss (available at Nordstrom) matched with pale grey dress shirt and geometric tie.

Women’s fashion changes significantly from season to season. Men’s fashion does not. For women to buy “throw away fashion” that lasts for a season is perfectly acceptable. This is not the best idea for men.

Let’s look at the typical wardrobe:

Women’s wardrobe – has a high turnover of a wide, yet shallow assortment of clothing. “Wide” in the sense that women have many different types of clothing in a variety of styles. “Shallow” meaning that there is barely a style that that is duplicated in their wardrobe.

Men’s wardrobe – has a low turnover of a narrow, yet deep assortment of clothing. “Narrow” in the sense that men have fewer types of clothing to choose from. “Deep” meaning that with each type of clothing, there is lots of duplication of style. Just consider the number of near-identical collared shirts that the average man has in his wardrobe.

Since men’s fashion has a longer life, men keep items for longer. It is therefore important for them to be discerning about quality by shopping at better-end chain stores (e.g. Banana Republic) and department stores (e.g. Nordstrom) for premium products (budget permitting of course). Hence: “boys need to buy better!”

It is common to buy jeans that fit our bodies perfectly everywhere but on the waistline. This is especially true for pretty, pair shaped ladies with tiny torsos. A fashionable wide belt threaded through the belt loops of our jeans usually solves the problem. However, trendy longer length knitted tops and T’s pulled down to just over our hip bones don’t look nice with bulky belts showing through. The solution is simple: take off the belt. But when we do, we constantly find ourselves pulling our jeans up – which isn’t so stylish.

 So what are we to do? I’ve found 2 solutions:

• Belt your longer length T or top at the hip in true ‘80’s fashion. This is especially effective with elasticized belts. You won’t find yourself pulling your jeans up when you walk. You will however need to straighten the ensemble every time you get up from sitting down.
• Have the waistband on your jeans tailored. I‘ve just done this to a few pairs of jeans and it was money well spent (about $20 a pair). No pulling, bulging or straightening anymore.  The effect is especially noticeable on the day that you wear your jeans again without having popped them into the wash. Jeans tend to grow the more you wear them, which makes altering the waistband an even better idea.

Tailoring an existing pair of jeans is still going to be less expensive than buying another pair – you won’t be sorry!

Tanks tops come in all shapes and sizes – short, long, strappy, plain, printed, and with or with out lace. They are an absolute staple for all stylish ladies irrespective of age, size or lifestyle. Having an assortment of tank and camisole styles and colours increases your wardrobe versatility.

Some of the many advantages of adding this extra affordable layer:

• White knit tops look more crisp – layering a white tank top or camisole underneath a fairly thin white fitted t-shirt makes your white t-shirt look more “crisp” and therefore more flattering. You won’t need to worry about your T being see-through anymore.
• Better than spanx – wearing tank tops and camisoles underneath fitted tops and t-shirts covers a multitude of sins. Tuck shorter ones into your jeans, pants or skirts and leave longer ones hanging out. Rest assured that all is “covered” when you reach up high or bend down low.
• Re-invent what you have – adding longer length tank tops and cami’s to short and standard length tops, blouses, cardigans and shrugs that you already have, will update you instantly.
• Climate control – as the weather warms, jackets become to hot to wear. Adding an extra layer underneath your top should keep you at the perfect temperature. By the same token, this extra layer will keep you warm if the air-conditioning gets too chilly.
• The solution for small chests – small-busted women should generally stay clear of scooped and low V- necklines. Layering tank tops or cami’s with higher necklines underneath low cut tops solves the problem. 

Unless you have an absolutely perfect perky bosom, leave tanks with built in bras behind. They tend to give your chest an unflattering shape and are uncomfortable if you wear a bra as well.

Get yourself a selection of tank tops and camisoles – they are season-less and inexpensive.

Camisole from Arden B. and tank tops from Bebe and Nordstrom.