This is a subject where I have no formal training or experience, but I do have strong feelings about it nonetheless. The correct amount of make up can certainly enhance our features and therefore improve the way we look. The incorrect amount will make us look like an opera star. I cannot stress enough that “less is more”. Very few people can get away with wearing absolutely nothing on their faces, but chances are high that they are actually wearing more than you think – it just looks as though they aren’t. This is the trick!  With a little bit of attention to the right detail, you can look polished in an effortless and natural way.

• Skin – spend money on treatment rather than colour. Your skin is the most important part of your face. There is nothing more appealing than skin that is well taken care of (and remember to wear sunscreen every day).
• Make up – if you feel that you need to wear foundation, spend time finding the correct one for your skin type and tone. Most importantly, you’ll need to look like you aren’t wearing any.  
• Eyebrows – take special care grooming the second most important part of your face. A person’s face is framed by their brows. Eyes can be opened up and the face completely realigned by giving eyebrows the attention that they deserve. Have them shaped professionally if you can’t manage yourself. If they are light, dye them. If they are thin, pencil in the cracks. Make sure that the colour that you use matches your eyebrow colour perfectly. And apply the pencil in shadow form – harshly applied eyebrow pencil is unsightly.
• Eyelashes – if you were blessed with thick dark lashes then good for you. If not, use dark brown mascara instead of black unless you are very dark. It will always give you a softer and more natural look. Apply just enough to keep you clog free.
• Lips – gloss will look just as nice as colour. Keep your daytime colours extremely natural and go darker at night if you need to. The interest on your lips will always make you look more polished.
• Cheeks – if you don’t have naturally rosy cheeks, apply a bit of the correct colour blush to your cheekbones. This is especially true in winter when we tend to look a bit more pale. It will give the impression that you look healthy and well despite the fact that you feel you are on the verge of collapse.

Eye shadow, eye liner and lip liner are best left for Oscar night. At the very least, take care of your pretty skin, groom and colour those brows and pop a bit of colour on your lips. In my opinion, you in your “almost natural” form is most stylish!

Cameron Diaz, Paris Hilton, Sheryl Crow and Hillary Duff have their “boyish” rectangular frames in common. Your well proportioned body, lean limbs, straight waist and small chest make you look like an athlete without even trying. Despite the fact that you are easy to dress, you’ll still want to think about how clothing affects your body shape. Defining your waist and creating curvature both on top and on the bottom will do the trick.

Defining your waist and creating curves on top:

• Choose high necklines for your small chest. You can wear a v-neck if you wear a round neck tank top or t-shirt underneath. Avoid scooped and sweetheart necklines. You may feel that this is flattering, but all it will do is show off an empty space. Cru, slash, turtle, polo, funnel and Armani necklines are perfect for you. You look particularly good in capped sleeve baby tees and sleeveless tank tops – show those wonderful arms off.
• Choose tops with bust frills, rushing, breast pocket detail, front panel detail and pleating. Wrap tops are also good if appropriately layered underneath. Blouson tops will give you more shape. Blousing a tee or shirt slightly at the low waist with a belt will have the same effect.
• Show off your back as an alternative to your lack of cleavage. Halter necks are a great option.
• Your jackets are nicest at high hip bone and nipped in at the waist for shape. Avoid boxy styles. Choose tailored trenches and belted jackets or coats at any length to give you more shape and definition. You will look best in a classic single-breasted or double breasted coat.
• Layer fitted garments together subtly – this is key to creating the curves that you want.
• You are the only body shape that can wear a shift dress but will look equally good in bias cut dresses that are just below the knee.

Creating curves on the bottom:

• The best way to create curves on a straight bottom is by wearing something very tight but not constricting. In this way, your body will automatically create curves. Your body was made for jeans. You’ll be able to wear any style, shape or length with any amount of detail. You’ll still look best in flat front, semi low rise, hip skimming boot cuts. Make the most of this privilege and get what’s most fashion forward if that’s your personal style.
• Choose combat and cargo pocket pants at any length for casual attire. This type of detail will create the pretty mass that you need.
• Avoid ultra low rises as they will make your torso look disproportionately long.
• A pencil skirt just below the knee will also create curves. Tuck your blouse or shirt into your pants or skirt and have fun with belts as this will give you more shape. Heavier belts with eye catching interest will also help emphasize your waist.
• Choose bias and voluminous a-line skirts either on the knee or on the calf as they will add bulk appropriately.

Spring is “a pants season” – have fun with it and buy funky combat pants and walk shorts if you don’t already have them!

The “fuller figure” was one of my departments when I was a fashion buyer. As a personal dresser for Dress for Success Seattle (DFSS), I have put this experience to good use – most of our clients range between sizes 14 and 20. In fact, the fuller figure is mainstream in North America. The most bought sizes are 12 and 14, with 14 being the starting size for plus size departments. Certain regular-size clothing ranges have started to incorporate size 14 into their size curve with larger sizes being available online. This is true of Gap, Banana Republic and Ann Taylor.

Rules about body type and height also apply to the fuller figure, but a few general points can be made when selecting clothes for a voluptuous diva:

• Choose styles that skim the outline of your shape.  No puckering, gaping or pulling; and nothing shapeless either. Oversized clothing is awfully unflattering. Don’t hide from the rest of the world – you’ll look slimmer when your clothing is closer to your body.
• Enhance your focal points. This could be your shoulders, décolletage, forearms, legs or ankles.
• Shape those shoulders. Your clothing should be snug on your shoulders. Adding shape to this area will automatically make you look elegant.
• Jackets at hipbone length are best. Tops and jackets that cover up your bottom act as a spotlight. Jackets that end at your hipbone elongate the leg and slim down the mid section.
• Avoid pleated and tapered bottoms. Pleats add bulk that you do not need – keep your bottom fronts flat. Tapering narrows the line to your ankle and will accentuate your hips.
• Don’t fall back on black all the time. It can look harsh and matronly. Black may be slimming, but wearing softer neutrals is more sophisticated, current and stylish.
• Invest in tailoring. If you’ve found an item of clothing that fits you well but needs some extra adjustment (e.g. on the waistline) buy it and have it altered.  

Dressing lovely, extra-curvy ladies at DFSS has been fabulous because everyone ends up looking fabulous. Style is beyond size – embrace it and look stylish!

Clothing cut close to the body – essential for the fuller figure – from Nordstrom.

On April 25 (“Wedding Appropriate”) I said that Wedding-wear needs to be smart, relatively modest and any color but white. Today I’m going to be a bit more specific – what does one wear to a Spring morning wedding? 

There are lots of options, but here are my top 4 (in order):

• A “floaty” summer dress – there is nothing more elegant, feminine and chic than a pretty knee length summer dress that flatters your body type and has movement when you walk. Add a dainty little clutch bag, vintage jewelry and strappy sandals and you’ll be the second best dressed person there.
• A Knitted dress – a printed knee length knitted wrap dress (which you hopefully already have in your cupboard) makes for a more retro and funky alternative. Add chunky jewelry, high-wedge peek-toe shoes and a patent clutch and you’ll look fab.
• Dressed up walk shorts – match a pair of knee length walk shorts with a lacy girly top, pearls and pointy toe shoes for a new and easy combination.
• Jacket and skirt separates – marry a cropped short puffed sleeve jacket with an A-line or pencil skirt for a more versatile option. Add a broad waist belt for a bit of current edge. The jacket is a good investment as you’ll be able to wear it over jeans or pants to another occasion.  

Floaty elegance from Macy’s and Bebe. Summer dress with movement, and knitted wrap dress, both from Bloomingdales. 

Walk shorts from Macys. Jacket and skirt separates from Nordstrom.

Bear the following in mind with any of the above options:

• Keep your bags small – you’ll ruin the elegance that you’ve created with anything big.
• Avoid wearing black from head to toe – it’s a morning wedding, not going to a funeral. Rejoice with the newly weds and wear a cheerful colour. 
• Wear your heels as high as you can go – it’s appropriate, dressy and more flattering with any skirt, dress or walk short, but… 
• Don’t wear thin heels if the ceremony is on a lawn – pulling your heels out of the dirt isn’t very stylish!

I’d love to hear your wedding-wear suggestions as comments on this entry.