Choosing the perfect frames for your eyeglasses

If you wear specs every day they have to be the best pair for your eyes and face that you can afford. End of story. Specs are the first thing that people see when they look at your face. They have the power to make an instantly fab or drab impression no matter what you’re wearing. Much like your hairstyle, specs can make or break your look.

So when I have clients who wear their specs all day every day, I start the journey of their style renewal by shopping for frames. There is little point updating a wardrobe and hairstyle when the most important accessory that you own is neither current nor flattering.

As a fashion stylist who wears glasses, I have spent many, many hours seeking out killer specs for myself, friends, family members and clients. It is all about experimentation, but over the years I’ve also developed the following guidelines:

  • Find a handful of reputable eyeglasses stores: Do the homework of finding stores that have skilled sales assistants and sell a wide assortment of eyewear from all over the world (Japanese, French and Danish frames are my favourites at the moment). You’re after stores that sell it all, from classic and modern looks to retro and completely over-the-top vibes. That way you’ll maximize your chances of finding a killer pair.
  • Try on many styles: Do not go into the process with a preconceived notion of what you think might work unless you know for sure from previous experiences. Try as many different shapes, styles and colours as possible. You’ll be surprised at how quickly the cherries stand out. In some instances certain style features are a must because of comfort issues. For example, I find nose pads uncomfortable so my frames have to be plastic.
  • Bring along a style savvy friend: Often, you can’t adequately judge the frames you’re fitting because you have to remove your current specs to try them on (wearing contacts during the process helps). Sales assistants are not created equal so it’s imperative to bring along as extra set of stylish eyes. For me, Greg is hands down the best person to assess a new pair of specs and I trust his aesthetic judgment implicitly.
  • Frames MUST LIFT: I cannot stress this point enough. Specs look best when they lift the cheek and eye area at the bottom outside corners of the frames upwards. If they don’t, your facial features look like they’re drooping which is unattractive. So be wary of the vertical height of the style. It’s awfully unflattering if it’s too high or sags downwards.
  • Your eyes should be centered within the frames: They don’t need to be absolutely dead center, but thereabouts is good.
  • Match the scale of the frames with your facial proportions: Bold, oversized frames are dramatic and fabulous, but that doesn’t mean they will work for you. A small person with dainty facial features is overwhelmed in thick, chunky frames. But that person can still wear bold frames if they choose a refined version of a chunky style.
  • Follow the line of your brows: Choose a frame shape that mirrors the arch of your eyebrows.
  • Don’t be scared of extra width: Many people wear specs that are too narrow for their face. Their eyes may be centered and the style “lifts upwards”, but the narrow width of the frames constricts the face. You want a shape that “opens up” the face, so add a little width to the top outside corners of the frames. It makes a world of difference, often balancing out a pear shaped face.
  • Think in three dimensions: You see your frames from the front, but everyone else sees them from all angles. They also catch glimpses of the inside of the frame. That’s why it’s important to pay attention to temple and inside colour detailing. Often, if the colour on the inside of the frames and the temples is different, the overall look is softer and more interesting. My favourite specs are black and white, but they are bright turquoise on the inside which softens the harsh contrast against my pale skin and soft features.
  • Choose a color that complements your skin tone and eye colour: The operative word is “complement”, not “match”. Bright blue-eyed people shouldn’t wear bright blue specs. But wearing brown specs with blue detailing might be ideal. Do not confine your choice to neutral tones either. Eyewear does not have to match what you’re wearing, but rather go with everything because it compliments your face, not your clothes. You don’t change your face to match an outfit – it’s the same with eyewear. You can absolutely wear an orange or pink top if you wear red specs.
  • Create the right amount of contrast: If the contrast between the colour of your skin tone and the frames is too strong, you’ll look severe. If it’s not strong enough you’ll look blah. This is not a hard and fast rule, but generally, choose a colour that is different to the colour of your hair and eyes. There are brown-eyed people with brown hair who get away with wearing brown specs, but this is not the norm.

Remember that specs can be adjusted to fit so don’t worry if they are a little too tight or too loose when you try them on. Also remember that you’re not bound to wearing one pair of specs all the time. I continually swap out three pairs and I’m on the hunt for a fourth.

My guidelines are from the perspective of someone who wears specs herself, but many of the people who appreciate your choice of frames won’t be in this category. Sally from Already Pretty will offer this equally important perspective in her blog entry today. It’s well worth a look.

Readers and their Killer Specs

Meet some of our fabulous forum members and their specs. Clockwise from the top left: Cathy, Ana, Kari, Maya, Kristen and Sandy. Their specs are perfectly interesting, ageless, current and above all very flattering. Take the time to look at the details on their eyewear and compare them to the guidelines above. Note how the subtle and overt details on the temples and frames themselves contribute greatly to an overall look. The devil is always in the detail! I went specs shopping with Cathy and Sandy, Ana and Maya received loads of forum guidance during their specs selection process, and Kari and Kristen did a great job on their own. See this thread for more examples of forum lasses sporting their stylish specs.

Surrendering the waistline

Most fashion stylists and wardrobe experts encourage structured clothing that defines the waistline. For the most part I wholeheartedly agree. Wearing tops, frocks and jackets that reveal the smallest part of the torso is instantly flattering. Wearing fairly streamlined empire cuts can have a similar flattering effect because the silhouette raises the waistline to another small part of the body (which is often right under the bust).

Three years ago the voluminous trend was one of the watershed changes in fashion that caught the world by storm. Volume can be interpreted in many ways: from wide legged trousers, billowing sleeves, banded tops, cascading cardigans and paper bag skirts, to trapeze jackets, sack dresses and harem pants. Half of the silhouettes with voluminous detailing allow you to keep your waistline, while the other half doesn’t. It’s the latter half that I’m particularly drawn to, and I’ve found that I’m in the minority.

From what I’ve seen on the streets, with my clientele and on our forum, wearing clothing that hides the waistline is not popular at all. As much as I try to encourage the look in a refined, polished and tailored way because it CAN be done, it’s usually met with resistance. Don’t get me wrong, I love a sleek, structured, form-fitting, flop proof hourglass silhouette as much as you do. But when it’s done properly, I enjoy an ensemble with an unstructured waistline just as much. It’s mod, retro, arty and totally liberating.

It’s not necessarily a question of body type either. The right waist-less item with your best neckline, at the correct short length, with a strong shoulder line, and in a fabric that drapes elegantly over the body will work on virtually anyone. I’ve seen short, busty, hourglass-y women pull off sack dresses with panache. As always, the devil is in the details.

It isn’t enough that a waist-less outfit can look fab. You need to feel fab too. And women are against hiding their waistlines because it makes them feel unattractive. Specifically: unpolished, dumpy, or boxy. Years and years of having “the defined waist” drummed into us has had a great effect.

How about you? Is your eye adjusting to the look?

Devore Shift DressTrapezoid DressShirred Sleeve DressHalter Dress

I adore short drapey sack dresses like the ones that you see here. Fun to wear and very comfortable. I enjoy wearing them on their own, over skinnies or with leggings. I challenge you to give waist-less dressing a try.

Jersey necklaces: edgy or awful

Not quite a necklace and not quite a scarf, but a combination of the two. Shaggy, mop-like, grungy and bohemian, this fringe accessory makes a strong statement.

It’s not my style because I prefer a clean and crisp look. But I can appreciate the alternative vibe on the right person when worn with a flattering ensemble combination. It’s also reminds me a little of wearing a scarf muffler style.

So what’s the verdict? Can you appreciate the look, if not for yourself but on someone else?

Urban Renewal Studded Jersey NecklaceUO Shredded Jersey NecklaceDeena & Ozzy Jersey Chain Scarf

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

An expiration date for clothing

A friend emailed this quote to me last week and I spilled my tea I laughed so hard:

“They should put expiration dates on clothes so we men know when they go out of style” – Garry Shandling

Imagine if all clothes, not just those for men, had an expiration date sewn into the label. Who would decide when clothing had gone off? Who would actually adhere to the dates provided? It is fun to think about.

At one extreme you’d have some people scouring the shelves for dates as far into the future as possible. That way they would get the biggest bang for their fashion buck. Would there be some way that that people could “freeze” their clothes to make them last even longer?

On the other hand there would be people who would prefer to keep it fresh, only purchasing items with expiration dates of up to a few months. That way, they’d have a completely new wardrobe every season.

In reality a lot of people would probably love to have the guidance. Stick to the recommended expiration dates and you’ll stay in style. Wear something past the date and it’s a fashion faux pas. Easy! It’s there in black and white on the label.

I bet retailers would be ecstatic. More shopping all round. But what would happen to the expired clothing? It would have to be magically recycled into the next batch of fresh items.

Would this mean no thrifting? No passing down of clothes? No vintage fashion? Or would some items be like fine wines that last for decades and get even better with age.

Any more Friday thoughts on clothing expiration dates? Let your imagination run wild.

Sleeveless tops with waistcoats

I love this look. Don’t take too much notice of the pictures below if the items in the mix are not to your taste. Use what you have in your closet by applying the following formula:

Sleeveless T,
Knitted Top
or Blouse
+ Waistcoat + Jeans,
Clam Diggers,
Walk Shorts
or pants


This combination is a little unexpected because both items are sleeveless. To me, there is something alluring about the combination. A tad androgynous but still feminine. And you don’t need to stick to pants as your bottoms option. Substitute a skirt or sleeveless frock too. Quite edgy.

Diane von Furstenberg Gilet VestTikirani Valencienne VestEndovanera Knife Vest in Black JET Tees Layer Vest in Cement

I wore a casual version of this look yesterday. Dove grey voluminous sleeveless ruffle knit top, a black pinstripe waistcoat and casual denim clamdiggers. I finished off the outfit with a long necklace, cobalt bag, silver flats and wayfarers. Perfect for Mum-on the-go, a great way to layer in the heat and dead simple. Please give it a bash if you have the components in your closet.