Outfit Formula: Dresses Over Pants

Wearing dresses over pants or jeans, creating a tunic effect, is an acquired taste. Personally I love the visual effect and combination, and have worn it often over the decades. Pairing fab dresses with cropped skinnies (and later, cropped kick flares) made short dresses wearable and kept me warm. The dresses I combined with pants and jeans were usually shirt, shift or empire cut in silhouette.

This time round, the dresses are longer, and the bottoms a little or a lot more roomy. If you fancy wearing dresses over pants and jeans, these looks might inspire you.

1. Defined Over Fluid

A fit-and-flare shirtdress with an extreme asymmetrical hemline is paired with a pair of blue relaxed straight leg jeans. The jeans are full length. Classic black pumps add height to the outfit, add a dressy component, complement the model’s dark brown hair, and match the black satchel. The self belt of the dress defines the natural waist of the model and adds structure to the outfit.

Defined Over Fluid

2. Soft and Flowing

Here’s a co-ord with dress and pants in the same fabric and pattern. Both are soft, drapey and voluminous. Wear them together and Bob’s your uncle. It’s that easy! Notably, despite the volume and drape, there are subtle design details that give the outfit some structure. The hems of the pants taper back to the ankles. The cuffs of the sleeves taper back to the wrists. The hem of the dress is high-low, which offsets the horizontal line of a straight hem. The breezy look is completed with high-heeled sandals, but feel free to wear flats, low heels, or mules.

Soft and Flowing

3. Lantern and Leggings

If wide and roomier pants and jeans are not your thing, wear skinnies or leggings under dresses. For a more current look, pair longer and somewhat architectural dresses with body-con bottoms. The midi lantern dress here is a great example of the vibe. The black in the dress makes it work well with the leggings. Simple black sandals complete the outfit.

Lantern and Leggings

4. Wide, and Long over Wide

Last, here’s the most fashion-forward version where long wide and unstructured dresses top wide flowing pants. The dresses are midi or midaxi length, and frequently shirtdresses in silhouette. Some of the bottom buttons of the dress are left undone to create the effect of a very long front slit. The “slit” showcases more of the pants, and swooshes as you stride. No need to showcase the midriff if that’s not your thing. Slides and a tote are the casual finishing touches. Note the new shorter full length of the pants, which are as long as you can go wearing open-back and heeled footwear like slides. Longer hems slip under naked heels as your stride which is uncomfortable and precarious.

Wide and Long over Wide

Below are more examples of the vibe. Most of the pants are wide legs, but cropped flares and relaxed straights are shown too. Some of the dresses are VERY long. Some of the shirtdresses are worn open like super long shirts with a layering top like a tank or tee. The third outfit in this collection shows a wrap dress silhouette worn with pants in the same fabric and pattern. The wrap detailing adds an effective bit of structure by defining the waist. Add accessories as desired.

I recently tried a version of the fourth look by combining a roomy midi dress with a pair of wide leg full-length trousers. It happened accidentally in the dressing room when I tried on the dress but hadn’t taken the pants off yet. I looked at the pairing in the mirror, and loved it! It was dramatic, interesting, and elegant to my eye. Comfortable too. The dress is a brighter lime in person, and finishes below my kneecap. I was wearing taupe boots and bag that day, which perfectly matched the outfit. Here are the exact components. I look forward to wearing the outfit properly soon, and might switch to white boots and bag. I’ll need to figure out how to top the outfit with a coat or jacket.

Fab Finds: Wide Leg Jeans

Wide leg jeans are on-trend, and gaining great momentum with my clients. Generally, the drama of the silhouette, and the switch from tapered legs, is going down well. Some are wearing them at the new shorter full length where the hems skim the vamp of the foot without a breakline. It’s a practical length for wet Seattle, and looks fab with sneakers, flat boots, flatforms, or very low heels. Others are wearing them with a breakline and hems that skim the surface of the ground.

Here are the wide leg jeans that have been winners with clients. I’ve added some other styles that are worth a browse. Prices, washes, fabric composition, rise lengths, and the widths of hems vary. The lengths vary greatly too. In fact, the lengths on the models are deceiving. They are often longer in person and might need a hack. Some of the items are on sale.

Everlane
The Mariner Jean
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Everlane
The Mariner Jean
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10

The PAIGE Harpers in various renditions have been particularly popular with clients, and worked on a range of body types. The rises aren’t as high as you might expect. There are petite lengths of these jeans at Anthropologie. The Everlane Mariner have worked well on rounder and curvier butts and have a longer rise. The Rag & Bone Sofie Splice is super wide and has a genius bit of diagonal seam detailing. The Ulla Johnson Genevieve is trouser-y and rigid in a fashion-forward way. The NYDJ Teresa has a relatively low rise if that’s your preference. I have the Veronica Beard Taylor, which has a gorgeously even and polished light wash. They smack of the ‘70s, and I’m wearing them here. They are much longer on me than on the model.

Authenticity is Easier

The way you pull yourself together every day should be in line with your beliefs, values, personality and preferences. A personal style that is genuine and true to who you are, will feel right and be easier to create and maintain. 

Style is Honest

When you stray from what feels authentic, maintaining your style will become a chore that drains your energy. Following someone else’s rules or trying to keep up with some idealized benchmark will rob from you the joy of self expression.

If you are true to yourself, dressing will become easier. You will have more fun, you will feel in control, and you will feel more confident. The positive energy will radiate into other aspects of your life. Take pride in what it means to be you.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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I Am Off My Peacoats Right Now

The peacoat is a classic outerwear silhouette we see every year. It’s a short, double-breasted wool or wool-rich coat with a revere collar and long sleeves. Lengths vary from just below the waist to skimming the hip. There are two rows of buttons, and side entry pockets. The buttons are usually metallic, tortoiseshell, or self-colour. Tab and epaulette details on the sleeves and at the back are common but not essential. Most fits are fluidly tailored, but architectural oversized versions are coming through. Neutrals are peacoat favourites, but they’re available in a range of colours and patterns.

I used to LOVE wearing my peacoats and have had several over the decades. I currently have two, and both are navy. The one is old, impeccable, and a beautiful fluidly tailored classic from Burberry. The second is newer and an architectural boxy fit. It has a bit of a Japanese kimono vibe when buttoned up. Both fit perfectly, are comfy, and look great.

Yet I am completely off wearing these peacoats, for now. Not in Autumn and not in Winter. It’s not the colour that is putting me off, because my other navy coats are in high rotation. It’s their short length. Every time I grab one — thinking “I adore peacoats!” — I take it right off and sub it with a long coat. On this leg of my style journey, I’m reaching for my wool coats that finish around the knee, or below it. There is something appealing about their drama, vertical integrity, dressiness, and particularly the way the maxi coats swoosh as I stride. They are also more insulating.

Here are my longer wool coats that continue to get a LOT of wear. Some are over a decade old:

On the other hand, I’m all too happy wearing my casual short puffers jackets. I have two of them, and the citron puffer is my favourite puffer of all time. It’s in high rotation, and frequently worn with a cashmere beanie and scarf in the same colour.

It seems I’m in the mood for long dressy wool coats and short casual puffer jackets. It’s an unexpected outerwear mood swing and sartorial preference, but I’m pandering to it. Although my peacoats have fallen out of favour, I’m not passing them on. I feel great in them, and I can store them. I’m simply feeling more swish, current, and fab in my long coats. The peacoats can hibernate until my mood changes. They shan’t date, and who knows! I might pull one out for Autumn in late September or October.

Trend: Closed-Toe Slingbacks

A slingback is a shoe that has a strap around the back of the heel instead of a strap over the vamp of the foot. The heels of the foot are exposed, and in many cases the vamp of the foot is bare too. The strap that slings back around the heel can be broad or narrow. It can be elasticated, or buckled. 

We see slingbacks every season, but closed-toe versions are popping everywhere as the rag trade gives them their fashion moment. They are available in a slew of colours, and some patterns too. Heel heights vary from flat to low and high. Heel shapes vary from narrow stilettos and broad block heels, to platforms and wedges. Toe boxes vary from pointy, almond and round, to square and snip toe. Some styles are refined, and some chunky. Here are some examples.

I like the look of slingbacks. Visually, the daintier versions with low or flat heels work well on my low-volume feet. Personally I like the ones with square or snip toes. But practically, they don’t stay on my feet. The strap slides down my heels, and the style isn’t sufficiently supportive or stable to accommodate my stride. I can’t comfortably walk in them at my fast pace. But every so often, the vamp is high enough, the footbed and block heel supportive, and the strap in the right position on my heel so that it doesn’t slide down. When the planets align, I will wear a refined slingback flat or pump because they can look awfully pretty, and I have a soft spot for “the pretty”. But I doubt I’ll go looking for the right style because I don’t like them enough to go through the effort. I’d rather wear Mary Janes or ankle-strap pumps with a flat or low heel.

Over to you. Do you like and wear closed-toe slingback footwear?