10 Must Haves for Spring & Summer 2018

Today’s fashion is a complex melting pot of sartorial choices where almost anything goes, as long as you add an intentionally trendy component to the outfit. I believe that stylish dressers have a noticeable element of “fashionable now” in their look, which means adding some degree of current fashion, however large or small. It’s all about the two foundations of modern fashion today: Individualism, making it personal, and Maximalism, to the extent that works for you. 

Here’s a shortlist of suggested “must haves” for the warm and hot-weather season. They cut across body types, ages, price points and lifestyles. As always, it’s a question of finding the renditions that work best for YOU.

1. Midi Dresses & Skirts

I’m very excited. For the first time in a VERY long time, dresses and skirts with a little more length are available in retail stores and completely mainstream. A knee-covering skirt or dress (that is not a maxi) is no longer a highly elusive wardrobe item. Goodness knows why it took this long to filter down to retail since catwalks have been showing the midi trend for years. Better late than never, and that’s why it’s the first thing on my must haves list this year.

’Tis a dress and skirt season, and my suggestion is to milk it. There are all sorts of fabulous casual, smart casual and dressy dresses and skirts in stores across a range of silhouettes, colours, fabrics and sizes. Tall clients who have battled to find dresses with sufficient length are hitting the jackpot, and I did too.

2. Non-Neutrals

The explosion of colour has been sublime for lovers of non-neutrals. There are wardrobe items across a large assortment of colours — pastels, brights, earth and jewel tones — and now is your chance to take advantage. If you enjoy wearing non-neutrals, try new-to-you colours and remix them into outfits in fresh ways. If you’re a neutral gal, try adding a colour or two, even if it’s in the form of an accessory or pair of shoes.

3. Florals, Polka Dots, Stripes, Gingham & Pattern Mixing

These are timeless patterns with a high longevity factor, yet they’re having their fashion moment. I call them Trendy Classics. Easy-to-like patterns that you can add to your style in any wardrobe item in neutrals or non-neutrals. Choose one or more and have fun pattern mixing with them too.

Choose subtle and low-contrast versions of these patterns if solids are more your thing. Choose them in an accessory or pair of shoes if you don’t want to commit to a wardrobe item.

4. Cropped Pants & Jeans

This is still one of the best ways to update your wardrobe if you like to wear trousers and jeans, because we’re living in the era of the alluring ankle. Absolutely any current silhouette of dressy or casual cropped pant or jeans is good. Cropped skinnies and leggings, boyfriend jeans, chinos, utility pants and cargos that are rolled at the hems, straight and flared crops, harem pants, joggers, cigarette pants, wide crops, culottes and tulip pants — take your pick. Silhouettes can be streamlined, relaxed through the leg, voluminous on the leg, or flare out at the hems. Waistbands can be pleated, paper-bagged, or high rise. Fabrics can be soft and drapey, or stiff and architectural.

There is a version of cropped pants and jeans for everyone and for every occasion. Most styles look best cropped between two to four inches above the ankle bone. Any longer and they tend to look like regular bottoms that are too short, so make the silhouette look intentional. Two inches is quite the sweet spot, especially with wider calves.

5. Volume on the Bottom

Think further than just skinnies, pencil skirts and sheath dresses, and try a little or a lot of volume on the bottom. It needn’t be extreme. Subtle works well if that’s more your cup of tea. Try wearing culottes, wide crops, Mom jeans, pleated pants, paper-bag waists, cropped flares, cropped straights, A-line skirts, A-line skirts with asymmetrical hems, flared skirts with inverted pleats, bubble skirts, ruffled skirts, tiered skirts, fit-and-flare dresses, tiered dresses, shift dresses, sack dresses and straight dresses.

6. High Rise

High-rise jeans, pants and skirts are the most on-trend. The point is to SHOWCASE the waist by fully or semi-tucking a top, or wearing a cropped untucked top. Don’t hide the rise with a long and roomy top. The best way to showcase a high rise when you’re self-conscious about the midsection is to wear a tailored bottom without too much stretch with a semi-tucked top. Stretch fabrics are comfortable when they’re tight, but they create muffin top so go for something less tight.

7. Embellishment

Embroidery is once again the embellishment of the season, but all sorts of other bells and whistles are also fab. Think fringe, pom-poms, lace insets, badges, tassels, ladder lace, bows, beading, lacing, sequins, and raw denim hems. Go tonal or high contrast. Remix it with patterns and colours, if you dare.

If embellished items aren’t your thing, add bells and whistles to your outfit with accessories like scarves, belts, jewellery, brooches, watches, hats, bold make-up, nail polish and rainbow hair.

8. Tailoring

Reduce slouch and oversized silhouettes by wearing items that are tailored and fit closer to the body. Think about defining the curve of the bust, waist and hip because it looks FRESH. Tailoring goes hand in hand with wearing volume on the bottom because it’s a way of adding structure to the outfit. Think fit-and-flare dresses, sheath dresses, bootcut jeans, straight legs, fitted tops, tie-front tops, peplum tops, pencil skirts, fluted skirts, tailored trousers, structured jackets, belted jackets and dusters, belted trench coats, and structured gilets. Or wear a roomy top tucked into tailored bottoms to showcase the waist. Remember that tailored fits are tighter than fluid fits, but not as tight as body-con fits.

9. Flats & Low Heels

Gone are the days when heels were the only way to elevate your style. In fact, it’s trendy to wear fashion sneakers with just about any outfit these days. Supportive flats, low heels up to two inches, stable block heels, soft footbed sandals like Birkenstocks, slides, mules, loafers, oxfords, sandal booties, and shoes with straps that stay on your feet like Mary Janes and ankle strap footwear — are all on trend.

Remember that flat shoes needn’t be casual, and that dressy flats do exist. You can absolutely look professional or adequately dressed up in a dressy pair of flats or very low heels for the office or an event. My party shoes have one and a half inch heels.

10. Wild Cards

Add an item to your wardrobe that is atypical for your style persona, but that speaks to you in some way. This is an excellent way to evolve your style, making it feel extra refreshed for the season. Wild cards can be new colours or styles of clothing, footwear and accessories. Or a new way that you wear your hair, your make-up, or put together your outfits.

Take the PERSONAL in personal style to heart. You have the power to pick and choose from the trend buffet, and sport it your way.

Eloquii Utility Jacket with Belt

Eloquii Dramatic Ruffle Plaid Top

Eloquii Printed Flutter Sleeve Dress

Eloquii Striped Side Tie Midi Skirt

Team Dress or Team Skirt

We are re-running this poll because it’s been THE most incredible dress and skirt season. My clients are having a ball purchasing dresses and skirts instead of the usual pants, tops and jeans. Finally, retailers are getting that we need sleeved dresses with knee-covering lengths in casual styles and flattering silhouettes. We need skirts that are not just the basic pencil. AND we want them across an assortment of sizes, colours, patterns and fabrics. I’ve waited six years for the dress and skirt trends to change and at last they have. Let’s hope these trends continue.

I like skirts, but I love dresses and bat for Team Dress. There’s something about the ease of the one-piece dress that you can pull on and go that’s very appealing. It has built-in vertical and elongating integrity. Dresses are easier to style than a skirt because you don’t need to worry about matching it with a top. When you have a good assortment of denim jackets, short toppers, and coats like I do, dresses are easy to insulate when you want the extra coverage.

Dresses and skirts are equally feminine, dressy and elegant wardrobe items that can be worn with dressy or casual flat or low-heeled footwear. Yet I generally feel more pulled together wearing a dress than a skirt. The top can be fussy when it’s tucked or semi-tucked into a skirt, but I’m carefree about that aspect in a dress. Granted, skirts can be easier to fit than dresses especially if you wear a different size on the top and bottom. But it’s been a brilliant dress season, and I’m prepared to have dresses altered to create a perfect fit.

My preferences for dresses over skirts is reflected in my wardrobe. I have many dresses, and these are the exact ones hanging in my closet:

These are my skirts, and I have fewer of them:

My clients run the gamut. Some prefer dresses over skirts and vice versa. What’s your preference, and no batting for both teams. If you can’t choose, you’re welcome to hang out on the bench where I’m serving quinoa and tofu veggie bowls, steamed broccoli, and homemade frozen strawberry yogurt.

The Modern Twinset

Over the years I’ve talked about the twinset effect you can create by combining two top layers that match perfectly in colour and/or pattern. It’s not the traditional twinset pairing of a pullover and cardigan in exactly the same fabric, colour and pattern, but rather the more unexpected pairing of two other kinds of top. 

Here are some items from my own wardrobe as to illustrate the effect.

Patterned Blouse and Matching Scarf

First, there’s the patterned blouse that can be worn with a scarf in exactly the same pattern (although the fabrics are different). I bought the floral combinations at J.Crew last year and LOVED the set. So I bought a botanical and striped combination in the Netherlands a few months ago and have enjoyed it just as much. The effect is maximally Modern Retro, which appeals to my sartorial preferences.

Double and Triple Layers of the Same Solid Colour

Second, there’s the layering of two or three items in exactly the same solid colour. The collection shows two tops that I interchange with the same topper and scarf for a triple layered effect. The topper can be a cardigan, jacket or coat, and the top any silhouette at all. Sometimes I leave off the topper or scarf to create a double layer with the top.

The yellows look mismatched in the pictures, but they match perfectly in person. The fabrics are different, creating textural interest and outfit depth. Personally, I find the visual effect most effective in a non-neutral, and any non-neutral will work. Pastels, brights, mid-tones, jewel tones, muddy colours or earth tones — it’s all fab.

Both versions of my modern twinset feel fresh and different, create a polished effect, and I very much enjoy wearing them. Granted, combining a patterned blouse with matching scarf is an acquired taste and the sets aren’t easy to find. But a solid, non-neutral version is fairly easy to accomplish.

Who’s liking the modern twinset?

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Trend: Mom Jeans

The term “Mom jeans” makes me cringe because it makes a generalization about moms and what they wear. These so-called mom jeans were thought of as dowdy, unattractive and unflattering for the longest time. But silhouettes and combinations are frumpy right up until they’re fashionable. And now, the very same fashion industry that judged the silhouette unfashionable is putting it on a pedestal. Mom jeans are currently very trendy and hip. Fashion can be very fickle so laugh a lot, and don’t take it too seriously.

Mom jeans are an ‘80s inspired silhouette. Sometimes they’re described as high-rise ankle jeans or high-rise classic jeans. They are very high in the rise, fitted on the waist, hips and bottom, have ease through the thighs, taper to the hem, and are cropped in length (about two inches above the ankle bone.) They are not boyfriend jeans because the waistband of mom jeans finishes on the natural waist in line with the belly button, and the crotch point is in the regular position. The ease through the thighs varies depending on the fit. Slightly tapered hem widths are not skintight and can be rolled to create shorter lengths. The collection below shows a good assortment of mom jeans silhouettes.

Nordstrom
Topshop Mom Jeans
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ASOS
ONLY Washed Mom Jean
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What I like best about the mom jeans trend is that it has thrown yet another look into the melting pot of fashion. This reinforces the notion that there’s no such thing as a fad, that items take a long time to date, and that almost anything goes. The power lies with us and not the fashion industry, as we pick and choose from the vast assortment of silhouettes that is today’s fashion.

This is how I see the good and not-so-good of the mom jeans trend:

The Good

  • It’s a good fit on a curvy body type with a narrow waist and fuller hips and thighs
  • It’s a fabulous fit on a long rise and regular-to-long waist
  • It showcases the waist and adds structure to an outfit, thereby creating conventionally flattering proportions
  • It showcases the curves of your bottom
  • The high-rise and tailored fit is comfortable and girdling
  • The silhouette looks fresh in a sea of sausage-casing skinnies
  • It’s a trendy look and a fun flashback to the glorious ‘80s

The Not-So-Good

  • It’s not the best fit for a short rise and short waist
  • The point is to tuck or semi-tuck tops to showcase the rise and midsection, which might be an area you prefer to conceal
  • High rises can be uncomfortable on the midsection and accentuate the bulge on the belly, especially when seated
  • It’s not very streamlined on the thighs, despite the ease in fit
  • It can create a wedgie
  • The past stigma of the style might be too strong for you

I like the mom jeans trend for a few reasons. I enjoy showcasing my waist with a full or semi-tuck. I adore ‘80s fashion, and feel that the silhouette looks fresh and Modern Retro. I’m also sick of stretchy, tight jeggings and would much rather wear mom jeans.

I’m set for jeans for Spring and Summer, but I’ll look for a pair in the Autumn. I’ll need to be careful with the length of the rise because although I have a regular length waist, I am relatively short in the rise. I’ll have fun finding the perfect pair.

Over to you. What do you think of mom jeans, and will you wear the trend?

GUCCI Tiger Head-embroidered Straight-leg Jeans

An Assortment of Fab Finds

Here’s a selection of items that have been unexpectedly good this season. It just goes to show that you never know where the next wardrobe winner will come from. Sometimes the most unexpected retailer surprises us, so don’t be too quick to cross them off your list. 

1. SPANX Thinstincts Mid Thigh Shorts

These have been a revelation for many of my clients. Gone are the days of shapewear being uncomfortable, constricting and bothersome. Thinstincts are soft, easy to pull on and off, comfortable, and breezy. They create just enough compression to smooth out the silhouette without sucking the living daylights out of you. You forget that you’re wearing them. My clients who were dead set against wearing any type of shapewear are wearing them several times a week. They work best with skirts, dresses and tailored trousers. They also create a secure feeling under dresses and skirts that otherwise might leave you feeling a little exposed.

2. Talbots Marseille Topper With Lace

The quality of this top is mesmerizing, especially since it’s knitted jersey. The drape is architectural, and the fabric extremely luxurious. The workmanship and finish made me gasp. The inside of the neck is bound with tape so that it doesn’t stretch out. The lace insets are as neat as can be. It looks like you’ve ironed it after it’s been hung dry and machine washed. THAT is quality.

I bought the navy and have worn it semi-tucked with olive utility pants. It runs big so size down. If you wear a regular US zero, size down to PP in petites because the XS will be too big. I wear mine more fluidly than the model. Available in plus sizes too.

3. Boden Dresses

I rave about my own Boden dresses, so my clients tried them too. They’ve been equally impressed with the quality, silhouette, LENGTH, colour assortment and size range. The cuts work for an assortment of body types. Many of the styles are machine washable, come in solids and patterns, and are CASUAL. Sizes range from petite to plus, and they offer longer lengths too.

Boden
Jennifer Jersey Dress
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Boden
Nicole Jersey Dress
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Boden
Emmie Jersey Dress
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Boden
Thea Midi Dress
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Boden
Elena Dress
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Boden
Nicole Jersey Dress
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Boden
Nicole Jersey Dress
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Boden
Elisa Jersey Dress
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Boden
Elisa Jersey Dress
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Boden
Emory Jersey Dress
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Boden
Cornelia Wrap Dress
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Boden
Emory Jersey Dress
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Boden
Elena Dress
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Boden
Kassidy Jersey Dress
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Boden
Tie Waist Shirt Dress
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Boden
Tie Waist Shirt Dress
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Boden
Tie Waist Shirt Dress
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Boden
Beatrix Dress
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3
Boden
Kassidy Jersey Dress
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Boden
Thea Midi Dress
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2
Boden
Emmie Jersey Dress
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4
Boden
Emily Jersey Dress
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11
Boden
Ruth Midi Dress
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5
Boden
Eleanor Dress
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15
Boden
Eleanor Dress
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26
Boden
Julieta Lace Dress
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19
Boden
Vanessa Jersey Dress
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13
Boden
Vanessa Jersey Dress
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22
Boden
Jade Dress
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Boden
Phoebe Jersey Dress
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Boden
Claremont Dress
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Boden
Brione Knitted Dress
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Boden
Casual Jersey Dress
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3
Boden
Jessie Jersey Dress
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Boden
Hallie Jersey Dress
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Boden
Louisa Jersey Dress
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4. Halogen Ruched Detail Sheath Dress

Oh my word, I couldn’t believe the fit and silhouette of this $69 dress. I had the black on a 5ft 10 size US10/12 client in a Large, and it took my breath away. The fit and drape is WOW. It’s fitted but does not cling. It looks body-con, but isn’t tight. It looked amazing dressed down with a denim jacket and dressy ballet flats. Now I want one too.

5. Everlane Leather Street Shoe

A stunningly streamlined sneaker-oxford hybrid that’s made in Italy. It’s the first casual sneaker, slip-on shoe that stays securely on my feet. It works well for lower and higher volume feet, and feet with gentler bunions. Comfortable, polished and versatile. Fits an orthotic if you size up. Read the rave reviews. I’m thinking about keeping a pair in white since they are GREAT for travelling and city walking.

6. Alfani Draped Cardigan

An excellent topper for sleeveless dresses and tops when you want a breezy and elegantly casual cover-up. They’re on sale and run a size big. All the colours are nice, and read the rave reviews.

7. Tommy Bahama Two Palms Linen Raw Edge Jacket

Another great topper to wear over sleeveless or short-sleeved dresses and tops if you need the coverage. It’s soft and pretty, and much more feminine and breezy than a classic denim jacket. It runs one to two sizes big so size down. Nicely made, and you must be at peace with the crease.