Rise, Waist and Torso Measurements

Every so often a Fabber asks about the difference between a rise and a waist measurement. The waist measurement we’re talking about is the length of your torso, not the circumference of the narrowest part of your midsection. It’s what we’re referring to when we say “short-waisted” or “long-waisted.” 

Here’s a simple definition of rise, waist and torso measurements:

  • Rise is the distance from your crotch point to your natural waist
  • Waist is the distance from your shoulder neck intersection to your natural waist
  • Torso = Rise + Waist

Either measurement can be relatively short, long or regular. You can usually figure out where you fall on the rise continuum by trying on lots of bottoms. People who are short in the rise tend to prefer wearing low and mid-rise bottoms, and are cautious with high rises because the waist of the garment comes up higher on the body than it does on average. People who are long in the rise wear high rises extremely well because they have the real estate to fill out the length. They tend to find low and mid rises too low because they’re positioned lower on their bodies than was intended.

The distance between the shoulder neck point and the natural waist will vary, even among people who are the same size in other respects. If you’re outside the norm and either “short-waisted” or “long-waisted“, it can be a little trickier to find clothes that create flattering proportions because most clothes are designed for people with average proportions.

It’s easy to figure out if you’re short or long in the waist. Stand up straight (don’t sit!) and see if you can fit two hand widths between the under bust and the natural waist. If you can fit more than two hand widths, you have a long waist. Less than two is a short waist.

When you are relatively short both in the rise and waist, you have a short torso relative to the average person. When both measurements are relatively long, you are long in the torso relative to the average person. Often, people who have short torsos have relatively long legs. People who have long torsos have relatively short legs.

I’m 5ft 6, and relatively short in the rise. I like low rises, and mid rises tend to come up higher on me than the average person. I cautiously wear higher rises if they aren’t too high. A nine inch front rise on a pair of jeans or pants is in line with my belly button. A ten inch rise is as high as I can go on a pair of tailored jeans, thereby covering my belly button and reaching my natural waistline. I can go longer in the rise on a pair of pants when they’re baggy because the crotch point isn’t fitted and hangs lower on my body.

I can fit exactly two hand widths between my under bust and waistline, so I’m regular length in the waist. This helps me to create flattering proportions with high-rise bottoms, despite my short rise measurement. I enjoy semi and fully tucking tops, and belting at the waist because I have sufficient length in my upper torso to comfortably accommodate the action. Since I wear flats up to an inch in height 99% of the time, semi and fully tucking tops, or belting at the waist is a useful styling strategy because it lengthens the leg line from the hips upward without wearing high heels.

Understanding how your measurements relate to each other can help you create your figure flattering priorities, so over to you. Are you relatively long or short in the rise? How many hand widths can you fit between your under bust and waistline? Are you short or long-waisted? Feel free to ask questions in the comments section.

Link Love: The Summer Wedge

Roundups of wedge-heeled footwear keep popping up in my feeds, and I’m seeing them in just about every shoe store here as well. If you’re interested in getting a new pair too, these three links are for you:

From a wedge sandal with a cheerful cherry print to raffia sandals with a relaxed Summer vibe, these 25 pairs look very fun.

Looking for a budget-friendly pair? Popsugar found 10 pairs under $30 on Amazon.

Some fun patterns, pastels, and options for the fans of the sleek, minimal look.

Fab Links from Our Members

L’Abeille enjoyed all the outfits in Tiffany blue in the jeweller’s new video campaign.

She also wanted to share this article about the Manolo Blahnik exhibition at the Toronto Bata Shoe Museum.

La Belle Demimondaine has a collection of inspiration boards on Pinterest, but never really considered how they might be put to practical use. This stylist demonstrates how she actually uses them to plan and alter wardrobe pieces.

Kari thought this overview celebrating the sartorial choices of late writer Tom Wolfe was interesting.

Gigi came across this video on getting dressed in the 14th century.

Vildy, who is interested in the psychology of merchandising, found this article on how retailers choose in-store music very informative.

“Fashion, an industry dominated by women’s wear and buoyed by female dollars, with an image sold by women to women, is still largely run by men.” Like the Season is intrigued by the results of a new study on gender inequality in the fashion industry.

Shevia thinks Racked has been publishing some interesting articles lately, like this one about “Mom hair”.

Krishnidoux finds Bon and Ton, a couple that wears coordinating outfits, very cute and inspiring.

kkards directs us to this article on how to accept a compliment: “I think the writer nicely lays out that here in the US, often a compliment isn’t just a compliment, but really is the opening line in a person to person conversation.”

The part about the tight dress taking a backseat in this article on the royal wedding stood out to Sal because it made her realise why one or two of hers are just not getting worn right now.

Top Picks at the Nordstrom Half-Yearly Sale

The Nordstrom end-of-season sale is here. It is NOT to be confused with the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale. The Half-Yearly Sale discounts end-of-season merchandise, which is Spring and Summer merchandise in this case. The Anniversary Sale (or NAS), on the other hand, starts in July, and that’s when hot-off-the-press Fall and Winter merchandise is discounted for a couple of weeks before prices go back up in August.

The Half-Yearly Sale is one way to stock up on warm-weather items, especially when your Summers are hot and long. I browsed the items and these are the ones that have been winners on clients, or that caught my eye. Keep stalking the items when they’re out of your size because they do occasionally come back into stock.

Here’s the collection page if you would like to see the items alongside my descriptions.

Nordstrom
LEWIT Trench Coat
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Top Pick
6
Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Thoughts on Distressed Jeans

On one end of the distressed jeans continuum, the distressing is mild. Jeans are stone-washed, whiskered, and faded to look weathered but they don’t have holes, rips or tears. On the other end, jeans are distressed in the extreme. They are ripped, torn, frayed, threadbare, and shredded to create holes. The distressing is deliberate, and you can purchase them brand new looking like they’ve been through a post-apocalyptic dystopia.

Here’s an assortment that shows the range:

Shopbop
R13 Kick Long Jeans
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1
Shopbop
R13 Twister Shorts
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Top Pick
2
Shopbop
R13 Biker Boy Jeans
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Top Pick
2
Shopbop
AG Alex Shorts
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Top Pick
1
 

The distressed jeans trend was adopted from street style, where jeans that distressed naturally with age became edgy, tough, daring and hip. Designers and retailers artificially manufactured distressed jeans to create the same vibe for the masses. It found a market, and there’s no stopping the trend.

Distressed jeans add texture to an outfit. They create a unique juxtaposition when combined with dressier pieces like pumps, blazers, glitzy jewellery and a structured bag. They do a great job of dressing down more formal wardrobe items so that you can wear them more frequently.

It’s easy to get philosophical about what distressed jeans might represent. They can symbolize that we are flawed, that there is beauty in imperfection, that we are weathered by life, that our path is not a perfectly pretty one, that we come from humble beginnings, and that we can weather a storm. They can also symbolize that we are polished, but not precious. That we have a down-to-earth and relatable component to our persona, despite the formality that we project from the outside.

Visually, highly distressed jeans are not my cup of tea. I prefer to project a polished and professional appearance. That said, I’ll wear very faded blue jeans — and skirts and jackets for that matter — and I don’t mind a frayed hem as long as there are no rips, tears and holes or shredding in the denim. I enjoy wearing faded denim because it’s the easiest way to dress down my dressy pieces so that I can wear them more often. I also like the colour of very faded blue denim.

What are your thoughts on distressed jeans?

Eloquii Peach Lift Jean

Weekly Roundup: Assorted Items

The excellent shopping season continues and I hope you’re finding fabulous items that you’re wearing your way. The Topshop Floral Mesh Skater Dress was one of my unexpected finds, and I love it. I wasn’t initially drawn to the black background of the pattern and wished it was navy, but the flowers and leaves are in my favourite colours so I had to give it a try. It’s a perfect fit, length and silhouette, that will look equally good in Autumn worn with my tall dressy ink blue boots. The neckline fits closely around my neck thanks to a back zipper, and the fabric doesn’t crease. It’s lined with the softest knitted modal that makes it feel like you’re wearing a cotton dress.

Here’s the next roundup of winners from clients and forum members. Some items are available in an assortment of colours.

  • BP Kari Bow Loafer: An elegant, girly and pretty DRESSY loafer that's moderately comfy on lower and regular volume feet. Many colours and they're all nice. Great price and read the rave reviews.
  • Furla Medium Pin Shoulder Bag - Farfetch: A STUNNING quality bag and fabulous silhouette if you enjoy shoulder totes. Structured yet very versatile. Relaxed elegance, and a true white.
  • Anthropologie | Anthropologie Peplum Military Jacket: The photo does not do the darling justice. It looks better in person and drapes awfully well for a casual cotton jacket. Everyone who tried it on liked it. Looks best open, and works over dresses, jeans, pants and skirts. The olive-y brown is surprisingly flattering on most complexions. Might run a size big.
  • Treasure&Bond Tyler Metallic Leather Satchel: A verastile satchel that's compact in size but with a lot of room.
  • Converse One Star Sneaker: These are AMAZING, and made it into my wardrobe. They're LEATHER, very cushioning, and beautifully made. They look and feel better than designer sneakers, and at a fraction the price. Check out the inside stripes on these shoes. The quality is WOW. A little wide for my low-volume feet, but an insole and tighter lacing help. Fun red soles and pretty in blush. Comes in black too.
  • Topshop Nifty Woven Flared Heel Sandal: Fabulous sandal booties for regular volume feet, and medium comfort levels. Look dressy and chic on the foot. Office appropriate if you can wear open-toed shoes. Comes in black.
  • Halogen Ruffle Hem Zip Front Jacket: Super cute TAILORED bomber for dresses, skirts, jeans and pants. Might need to size down. Nice shade of navy.
  • Hobo Sable: Super cute, compact wristlet. A little '60s touch and fabulous in 2018.
  • Paul Green Sally Quarter Strap Sandal: A beautifully made trendy classic with added comfort. Size down half a size for lower volume feet, and tighten the straps. Works as well for higher volume feet. The cognac is as lovely.
  • Banana Republic Lace Midi Pencil Skirt: A fab skirt for both curvier and straighter figures. Dress it up or down, and excellent with a denim jacket. Good on petites.
  • Talbots Tweed Contrast-Trim Jacket: One of the best dressy Spring tweed jackets of the year. Impeccable quality, and brilliant on petites. Elongating and elegant.
  • Calvin Klein Faux Suede Moto Jacket: BUTTERY soft faux suede topper that is as comfy as can be. Excellent on a larger bust. Not good on petites. Runs a size big. The pale pink is yummy too. Fab pewter hardware.
  • Halogen Ruffle Zip Jacket: This jacket looks like a COS item. Avant-garde and GORGEOUS. The overwhelming sleeves are architectural, and the drawstring tailoring on the torso is genius. Looks as fab in tan. Runs a size big.
  • Halogen Tuxedo Stripe Straight Leg Jeans: Fun trendy jeans that run a size big. Best on a longer rise and torso. Works well on curvier hips, bottom and thighs. Read the rave reviews.
  • Franco Sarto SARTO by Franco Sarto Kenan Platform Sandal: Fun flatform Euro sandals for high-volume feet. Lots of good neutrals.
  • Talbots Womans Exclusive Wrap-Front Knit Jersey Top: A beautifully streamlined faux wrap top to wear as is or under a jacket. Works with all sorts of bottoms. Substantial fabric and a quality item. Flattering, forgiving, and sharp.
  • Sole Society 'Katarina' Block Heel Pump: A versatile and comfy pump that works on an assortment of feet. Great block heel. Read the rave reviews and browse the fun colours.
  • Naturalizer Emiline Flat Loafer: I can't rave enough about these loafers, which I wore on a shopping day with a client on their first outing. They are SUBLIME. Extremely comfortable, stay on your feet, and come in a wide width. The regular width works for lower volume feet with the addition of an insole. All the colours are nice, but rose metallic is unique - so my blush-loving self got those. They are instant wardrobe workhorses.
  • Pilcro And The Letterpress | Anthropologie Pilcro Embroidered High-Rise Cropped Bootcut Jeans: AMAZING quality jeans that work on curvier and straighter figures. Looks designer. Fabulous fit and length. Casually dressy and simply charming. Very even distressing.
  • Maeve | Anthropologie Cleary Dress: A fabulous casual dress WITH POCKETS. Forgiving of lumpage and bumpage. Works well on Team Tall with plenty of length. The photo is a very good gauge on how the dress falls on a 5ft 10 client who wore a size large. Available in patterns and solids.
  • Topshop Floral Print Mesh Skater Dress by YAS: I have this dress, which looks and falls just like how the model is wearing it in the photo. Gorgeous length, does not crease, and is extremely comfy. It’s an easy silhouette and elegant length. Will look equally good in Autumn with tall dressy boots. The neckline fits closely around my neck thanks to a back zipper, and the fabric doesn’t crease. It’s lined with the softest knitted modal and feels like you’re wearing a cotton dress.
  • Klub Nico Dallas Woven Sandal: A polished and comfy sandal bootie in a pretty shade of blush pink. Fab block heel, and office appropriate. Read the rave reviews.
  • Kelsi Dagger Brooklyn Ohana Sandal: A dystopian mule for Team High-Volume feet. All the neutrals are nice.
  • Kelsi Dagger Brooklyn Shiloh Block Heel Sandal: Well-made and fun looking dressy sandals that are quite comfy for regular volume feet. I love the blush colour way.
  • Ancient Greek Sandals Niki Slide Sandal: Cute Grecian slides for very casual outfits. Elegant and Summery. Works on regular volume feet and are moderately comfy.
  • Gorjana Laguna Adjustable Lariat Necklace: An adjustable and therefore versatile lariat necklace that comes in three metals.
  • Furla Handbag: I'm a huge Furla fan, and added this wardrobe pet to my happy Furla family of eight this year. It became an instant wardrobe workhorse as it complements my many pairs of blush shoes. I find blush very versatile and it functions like a neutral for my style. The quality is sublime, and size just perfect for my needs and small frame. It's structured, but looks as good with pink sneakers. It can be converted into a crossbody and is great for travel. Adds polish to an outfit. All the colours are nice.
  • Halogen Lace & Pinstripe Pencil Skirt: An interesting floral lace skirt with a pinstriped lining. Fits an hourglass and straighter hourglass really well, but is a little straight for a pretty pear. Elegant length and gorgeous Summery look.

Here’s the collection page if you would like to see the items alongside my descriptions.

Nordstrom
BP Kari Bow Loafer
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Top Pick
10
Zappos
Hobo Sable
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Top Pick
7
Yoox
Furla Handbag
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Top Pick
20