Joanna Mastroianni’s designs are based on Iris Apfel’s flamboyant, colourful and theatrical style. If you’ve seen photos of Iris, you’ll instantly pick up on the similarities. For example, Iris wears a lot of black with brights like red, emerald green and peacock blue. She also wears metallics like copper, bronze, gold and pewter, all of which we saw in the collection.
The first thing that pops into my head when I think of Iris’s style are her oversized specs. After that, I think of A-line high-necked smock-type toppers with kimono sleeves and turned back cuffs in luxurious fabrications. She often pairs these arty jackets with slim cut brocade trousers and extremely dramatic shoes. So it was fun to see the designer’s interpretation of this style of jacket and cigarette pant on the runway.
Iris’s style is also very texture rich. Feathers often feature in her outfits as a trim as do fabrics like organza, embossed leather and crushed velvet. Mastroianni used these signature Iris looks in her collection and the result was effective.
My favourite outfit of the range was a pair of bright red, slim cut brocade trousers matched with a halter neck tunic. I’m really enjoying the idea of wearing a bright colour from head to toe instead of breaking it up with a neutral or alternative colour. I have a yearning for a brightly coloured trouser suit.
What also struck me about the collection was Mastroianni’s accessory-free approach to her outfits. Iris Apfel wears many, many accessories at once. Lots of colourful layered necklaces, bangles and cocktail rings, along with her gigantic geek chic specs. Models sported a pair of dramatic gloves from time to time but that was it. I enjoyed the more refined and minimal approach of the collection.
The end of this show was very moving. One of the models was holding a Pomeranian as they all came back onto the catwalk for the finale. This may have been Iris’s little doggie, but I’m not sure. The audience applauded heavily as the models walked off the runway. Joanna Mastroianni walked on and headed straight for Iris in the front row. Iris stood up and with the help of a cane walked onto the catwalk with the designer. By this time the models and the cute Pomeranian had returned to the runway, and they backed Iris and the designer like a protective army. The whole audience was on their feet and photographers were going crazy as Mastroianni and Iris slowly walked arm in arm to the runway entrance, followed by their army of models. The whole sequence was accompanied by a roar of applause. I reached for my tissues.
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