Bust Size Classification: Small, Regular or Large

Petite Scarlet recently catalyzed a wonderful forum discussion when she posed the question, “what is considered a large bust size?”. She asked: 

How do you define this? On the one hand I feel large busted because it can be a fitting problem area, but on the other hand lots of women are much larger busted than I am. Also I don’t see my bustline as a reason not to wear a big scarf a la Angie’s blog post. Where do you draw the line for small/average/large?

FWIW, I usually wear a 32D (ideally it would be a 30DD, but that is too hard to find) am currently in an 34 DD due to pregnancy, but since my girth has increased it still feels more balanced than large to me. I have learned though that my feelings about large and small can be more in my head than what is apparent to other people.

The responses on Scarlet’s thread are fascinating and well worth a read. To summarize, some consider a 36D bra size “busty”. Others feel it isn’t that straightforward because height and bone structure are relevant factors that form part of the visual picture. Some feel that shoulder and chest shape play a role. Some feel that despite your height, you look more busty when you are short waisted. And others think that a D-cup, in all band widths, is a very average bust size. 

I have two main thoughts on this question. First of all, cup sizes are not created equal. A D-cup on a size 30D bra is smaller than a D-cup on a size 38D bra. So using the cup size as a reference point for bust size can be misleading. 

Second, I support the idea that it’s all about how the size of your bust relates to the rest of your body. For example, I have an almost 6 foot tall client who wears a size 36DD. To my eye she looks small busted, and she agrees with me. She is very tall with broad shouders. Her height and extra strong shoulder line make her bust size appear relatively small. On the other hand, I have a client who stands at 5′ 2″ with a short torso and wears a size 32D. Although her bra size is smaller, her shorter proportions increase the size of her bust relative to the rest of her body. She looks like she has a fuller bust than my tall client. 

Although it’s interesting to hear how people’s perceptions on bust size differ, it’s more important to think about but how your bust size affects the way you dress, and how your clothes fit your bustline. In other words, do you want to minimize or maximize your bust size, or leave it be. Scarlet hits the nail on the head when she puts it like this: 

You are only “large-busted” as a shape modifier if you feel like it is something you need to dress around. I personally don’t feel I need to dress around my bust line (i.e. minimize or balance it), although I do need to take the extra effort to find the shirts/dresses that fit.

I’ve noticed that my clients are different in this regard. At one extreme, some large busted clients like to accentuate the size of their chest. At another extreme some small busted clients like to minimize it. And then there’s every bust size dressing preference in-between. 

I’m 5′ 6″ and wear a size 29D or 30D sized bra. I feel neither large nor small busted. I do not dress around my bustline, although wearing a form fitting turtleneck clearly accentuates the size of my bust. I often wear form fitting turtlenecks so I’m fine with looking more full busted on those days. 

Do you feel small, regular or large busted? How does the size of your bust affect the way you dress? Do you prefer to minimize or maximize the size of your chest?

Link Love: Fashion Illustrated

French artist René Gruau, renowned for his vibrant illustrations for women’s fashion magazines and couture houses, also worked on tons of men’s ad campaigns. This body of work is the subject of a new book out this month: Portraits of Men.

Deborah Bowness’ unique handmade wallpaper creations are always a big hit in the blogosphere. With good reason. Just look at this fantastic Wallpaper Frocks collection!

“Dries goes psychedelic”. To celebrate the Autumn-Winter 2012 collections, Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters, recently painted a live mural on the store windows of the Dries Van Noten Antwerp flagship store. The colours and designs interact especially well in photo 3, don’t you think?

Fab Links from Our Members

This article explains why black clothing is the best way to keep cool in the heat. Deborah thought it was the perfect justification for all the black dresses in her Summer wardrobe.

Laura loves Seattle street style blog it’s my darlin’, it’s especially fun scrolling through the pictures while imagining Angie among all those outfits.

The commercial for this revolutionary beauty regime had Gaylene in stitches. Who knew it could be so easy?

Avid handknitter Diana adores Wovember, a website that contains a wealth of information about how wool is made, from sheep to sweater. More posts will be added throughout November.

Outfits are becoming more and more androgynous. Angie is a fan, and points out that this exact outfit with great ’80s vibe would look as fab on a lass as it does on a bloke.

Now this is a zebra print, says bj1111. The top is unfortunately no longer available.

MaryK is smitten with Catie’s style, colour combinations and the way she combines vintage finds with modern pieces. Also: how can you resist someone who dresses up as Grace Coddington for Halloween!

How Fast is Fast Fashion

In a recent post summarizing the upcoming trends for Spring 2013, I mentioned that a blouse cut in the shape of a roomy T-shirt would be one of the new silhouettes for next season. Well. Zara, has already knocked off the concept with panache and it’s just hit their stores (see photos below). It’s been less than a month since the last Spring 2013 runway show in Paris. Fast fashion is FAST. 

Zara, one of the most successful retail chains in the world, is unique for many reasons. For one, it can turn around an item much faster than other chain stores because it is vertically integrated. In other words, it owns much of its own supply chain, from production all the way through to retail. This cuts down operating costs and speeds up the manufacturing process. The fastest turnaround time for chain stores who outsource clothing production is approximately three months — and that’s if everything runs smoothly. That’s how long it takes to design, order fabric and trims, cut and sew the item, and deliver it to stores. Clothing production can be turned around faster if the fabric is already in stock and does not have to be especially produced for the garment order. Zara, on the other hand, has a three week turnaround time from sketch to delivery. Unbelievable. 

As far as the new “T-shirt blouse” goes, I hope to see it in an assortment of colours, patterns and solids for Spring 2013. Its dressy yet casual integrity is modern. It’s roomy and comfortable with just the right amount of structure, especially with the addition of the banded bottom. Woven fabrication amps up its versatility allowing it to be dressed up or down. Great for work and play. I’m a fan of this new silhouette. 

Fast fashion has its advantages and disadvantages, which is a topic for another day. But one thing is for sure. As a fashion professional I continue to be fascinated by the trend cycle. Seeing new trends and fashion concepts appear in stores at virtually the speed of light is part of what makes fashion such a fun sport.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Team Jeans or Team Trousers

This poll celebrates our third trouser season in a row. Important note: we are talking any style of jeans and any style of trousers. Trousers do not mean classic dress pants, but all styles of casual or dressy pants that are NOT jeans.

I love jeans and trousers, and both items are represented equally in my wardrobe. I still wear jeans regularly, but I reach for my trousers as often as I can because I’m trouser crazy at the moment. My style feels refreshed and extra modern when I wear trousers. I have absolutely no interest in purchasing more jeans, but could purchase several pairs of trousers right this second. This puts me firmly on Team Trousers. 

Over to you. Are you on Team Jeans or Team Trousers? Tell us why and no batting for both sides. If you can’t pick a side you’re sitting this one out on the bench with fries and a shake. I have a hunch that Team Jeans is going to win this race. 

Casual Holiday Party Ensemble: The Little Shiny Pant

Holiday parties are becoming more and more casual, which I find a great shame, but what can you do. We live in the age of casualization. These days a pair of fab jeans matched with heels and a sparkly top is as holiday-ready as a little black dress with all the trimmings. 

How about an in-between holiday look that’s not as casual as dressed up blue jeans, but not as formal as a LBD? A couple of years ago Kendall Farr wrote about the little black pant as a holiday party option. This year I bring you the Little Shiny Pant, or LSP — an on-trend outfit formula for our trouser season. 

The photos below provide great inspiration for the look. Here are the components:

Little Shiny Pant: You’re after anything with shine. Sequins, brocade, lace, lurex-rich fabrications, satin and metallic coated jeans are ideal options. Silhouettes can be cropped or full length. Slouchy, baggy, tailored or body con. 

Simple Top: I like the ensemble best with simple tops because they make the pants really shine. Think roomy or tailored fine gauge knitwear and soft drapey blouses over tight skinnies. Boxy blouses with high-low hemlines will also look fab. Tailored tops tucked into baggy and slouchy little shiny pants are another way to go. Or even a layering t-shirt worn under a tuxedo jacket or black moto jacket. For a maximal effect add a brocade jacket (see the model below with the green blazer). 

Heels: To my eye, dressy heeled pumps or heeled stacked sandals are the best way to finish off the look. That way you’ve created just enough formality. Shooties and booties are not my first choice because they dress down the vibe no matter what. That said, patent shooties are a nice option. 

Clutch: Hands down the best handbag to carry for this formula. Large or small. With or without a dainty strap. 

As with all the formulas, I sow the seed of an idea. The next step is to substitute the items so that they are in line with your own style persona. I’ve chosen a predominantly neutral colour palette because I’m taken with this look in metallic and black. But choose any colour spectrum. Keep it tonal or high contrasting. Add arm candy or a necklace. Add a belt. Or throw in your significant other for a serious bit of arm candy. 

I am feeling this vibe the most for my holiday look this year because I am trouser crazy. I wanted to wear sequin pants last year, but a minimalist midi dress won me over. It’s trousers this year.

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