Four Starting Points for Outfit Creation

Outfit creation is at the heart of your style. This is where it all comes together, and it is where you can achieve maximum impact because it’s not just about the item itself, but how you wear it that counts. 

I have many clients who ask me to help them only with outfit creation, because that’s where they get stuck. That means they’ve edited and reviewed their closet and shopped for items on their shopping list on their own, but find it challenging to create flattering, interesting and comfortable outfits. So we spend anywhere from several hours to the entire day putting together outfits for all aspects of their lifestyle. Along the way we document the combinations we come up with and note wardrobe gaps and surpluses.

I go into the outfit creation process with my head full of information that acts as reference point and inspiration, often very specific to my client’s needs. This makes it hard to distill general guidelines, but recently I have been thinking more about the things that my outfit creation sessions have in common. I realized that our approach often falls into one of four categories, each based on a different starting point.

1. An Item

The item could be a new pair of trousers, a dress, a skirt, a top or topper, belt, necklace, or pair of shoes. Any wardrobe item at all. Sometimes my clients will pull out an old item that they love and want to find ways to wear it more frequently. More often they have bought a new piece that they adore, but are stuck on how to use it in a fabulous outfit.

The challenge with using a single item as an outfit creating starting point is that it’s only one piece of the puzzle and you might not have much context for the rest of the picture. 

2. A Colour Palette 

You might want to create a set of outfits within a particular colour palette because it is a new-to-you colour combination that you really like, or because you already have a lot of that palette represented in your wardrobe and want to make better use of it. Sometimes the setting dictates a particular colour palette. For example, I have executive clients who prefer to work within a neutral colour palette.

The challenges with using a colour palette as an outfit creating starting point are twofold. First, it is sometimes tricky to combine hues and intensities in ways that work well together, and with your complexion. Second, I find with my clients that certain colours and colour combinations really test their comfort zone. Too bright, too flashy, too muted, too cold or too warm. Colours are very emotive, after all, so they generate strong feelings, especially when associations from the past get involved.

3. An Outfit Formula

Outfit formulas can be general, like jeans + blouse + blazer + flats. Or they can be more specific like the dressy nostalgic tee ensemble, which combines a nostalgic tee with a pencil skirt, chic dressy jacket and girly shoes. Formulas are a very effective way to simplify the outfit creation process, and they can also be a very efficient way to think of your wardrobe, creating a series of “uniforms” that you can wear in different situations.

They do also have their challenges. First, you have to know about a formula in order to use it. Second, a formula is seldom all that you need. A general formula leaves a lot of blanks to fill. And a very specific formula is hardly ever perfect for everyone and will require some substitution when it is applied. For example, in the jeans + blouse + blazer + flats formula, it can be quite effective to substitute the blouse for a layering tee or sweater, or the flats for heeled ankle boots. This is where my clients sometimes battle, not realizing the substitutions they can make, or just not having the confidence to make them.

4. A Copycat Example

The popularity of this starting point has exploded along with the growth of Pinterest, with people pinning and sharing outfits from blogs, catalogues and online style magazines. These days my clients will often show me an outfit on their Pinterest boards or in a fashion magazine and ask for my help in replicating the look.

The copycat approach is easier said than done. Seldom is the person wearing the outfit an exact match for your persona, lifestyle and body type. So the challenge is to modify and substitute, capturing the essence of what you like about the outfit, but making it work for you.

Looking back over the years of YLF I realised that I have written relatively few posts about the nuts and bolts of outfit creation. This is probably because it is so hard to give specific, tangible advice that will apply to everyone. But just because it’s hard doesn’t mean I shouldn’t try. I’m going to use the set of starting points above as a framework and in future posts I will tackle each one in more detail.

Are there other approaches or starting points that you find useful when you set about creating outfits?

21 Gift Ideas for Mother’s Day

Whether it’s giving your own Mum a gift or being showered with gifts yourself because you’re a Mum, Mother’s Day gifts run the gamut. Everything from brunch, lunch and dinner out, to spa treatments, books, flowers and weekends away. Of course, there’s also the option of treating Mum, and that includes YOU if you’re a Mum, to a gift of style. 

Here are items across an assortment of price points that could make fun and practical gifts for Mum:  

  1. Joie Day Dreaming Light Gold Slipper Flats: Trendy, beautifully made, soft leather, ageless and versatile. They are very flat, but they work well with orthotic inserts and cushioning insoles. Mum might need to size down half a size. 
  2. Bella Vita Wow Pump: The pump has a two inch heel (the information on the site is incorrect). It’s on trend, comfortable, elegant and comes in several colours and patterns. AND it comes in wide widths. I couldn’t be happier with my white pair. 
  3. Book: Summer at Tiffany: Two friends become the first ever women to work on the sales floor of the legendary Tiffany & Co. A delightful story about fashion, friendship and love. 
  4. Book: Women from the Ankle Down: This book is for shoe lovers. It tells the story of 20th century American footwear through the eras’ most iconic shoes. 
  5. Casual Studio Pleat Front Blouse: An easy pull-on-and-go over a white cami and jeans. 
  6. Movie: Funny Face: Audrey Hepburn wears the most famous pair of black cropped pants of all time in this movie. It’s a must-see for iconic fashion and fabulous dance routines.  
  7. Documentary: Bill Cunningham New York: This incomparable man on his bike has been snapping photos of interesting street style for many decades and continues to do so well into his eighties. It’s the most moving fashion documentary I have ever seen. 
  8. Kate Spade Larabee Dot Ring Holder: An easy, attractive and visible storage idea for rings. 
  9. Natori Shangri-La Robe: Fabulous robes are hard to find, but this one is great. It’s pretty, lightweight and comes in many colors. Read the rave reviews. Also available in plus.
  10. Zella Supersoft Hoodie: An excellent item for a lounging or workout capsule. Its shaped fit is flattering. 
  11. Nordstrom Waffle Cotton Robe: Here’s a shorter and more structured robe in a stiffer waffle knit. Fresh for Summer. 
  12. Elliott Lucca Intreccio Leather Tote: It’s like a work of art. Casual, chic and playful. 
  13. Michael Kors Bracelet Chronograph 38mm Watch: A mixed metal time piece that double duties as a bracelet. Here it is in plain gold
  14. Michael Kors MK5680 Emma Multifunction Glitz Watch: Here’s a silver one with a little more glitz and square face. 
  15. Rebecca Minkoff ‘M.A.B.’ Leather Tote: A quality bag with a high longevity quotient. Simple, practical and modern. 
  16. Natasha Couture Dotty Cuff: An architectural piece of arm candy with a sense of humour.  
  17. Charles Albert Musical Bubble Pendant Necklace: A cheerful round pendant that jingles on a delicate chain as you stride. Mum can wear this type of necklace with just about any outfit. 
  18. Fina Firenze Floral Foiled Denim Belt: The silver option is great with a blush and white ensemble. Soft, pretty and on trend. 
  19. Michael Kors Eyelet Cotton Tunic (Plus): So modernly bohemian it’s almost graphic. Feminine and breezy. Fab over a pair of bermuda shorts, pencil skirt or jeans. 
  20. Foley & Corinna FC Wallet: Particularly fab in the iridescent. It virtually functions as a mini clutch. 
  21. Kate Spade Millionaire iPad Sleeve: Just for fun! 

If my Mum were still with us today, she’d most appreciate receiving something pretty for her wardrobe as well as time with her family on Mother’s Day. So it would probably be a blouse or pullover of sorts, accompanied by a bunch of pink flowers, and lunch out somewhere dressy. Then back home by mid-afternoon so that she could spend the rest of the day relaxing with the dogs. 

What do you get your Mum for Mother’s Day? And if you’re a Mum, do you have any requests for your special day? 

Dotty CuffSupersoft HoodieIntreccio Leather ToteMichael Kors Chain Bracelet-Chronograph-WatchSummer at TiffanyWomen from the Ankle DownM. A. B. Leather Tote

Link Love: Wedding Bells

Harper’s Bazaar has a roundup of the best bridal fashion for Spring 2014. Or check out these white runway dresses if a classic wedding gown is not your cup of tea.

From yellow ballet flats to pink patent oxfords and bright red rainboots. Cup of Jo presents seven offbeat alternatives for the traditional wedding pump. Looking for more ideas? Tons of alternative wedding inspiration can be found on Kat Williams’ wedding blog Rock n Roll Bride.

And what will the husband-to-be wear? I loved reading how these four grooms chose their wedding suits!

Fab Links from Our Members

This New York Times article brings up the question whether fashion books and movies are just another marketing tool or if they are really art. Deb thinks it’s all about the money.

When she grows up Angie will be dressing just like this magnificent lady, who is sporting what has got to be one of the most beautiful bobs of all time.

H&M is getting applause for showing its beachwear collection on a plus-size model. Janet hopes that many retailers will follow suit, and wonders if customers wrote to express their approval of this tactic, it would encourage more of the same. What do you think?

Peri was very moved by the powerful and profound message in Lauren Slater’s article about how she used fashion and beauty to deal with her depression.

Charmian enjoyed Jess’ take on the recent garment factory collapse in Bangladesh and on how buying ethically is more nuanced than merely shunning sweatshops. For people wanting to read more about sweatshop labour, she recommends Factory Girls: From Village to City in a Changing China by Leslie T. Chang.

Ironkurtin directs us to more background context on the subject: a very thoughtful overview of why the textile trade is prone to abuses (be sure to read the comments as well).

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Stretch Your Shoes with Wet Feet

Bella Vita Wow PumpWhite, dainty, low heeled pointy toe pumps were on my Spring 2013 shopping list and I recently found a pair that fit the bill. I had searched high and low all year, trying everything that tickled my fancy between $50 and $500. I finally settled on Bella Vita’s Wow pump. The toe box looked particularly elegant, the soles were not black, the leather is super soft, and the footbed is extra comfy. It outshone all the white pumps from better-end designer brands like Stuart Weitzman and Kate Spade, whose pumps usually work really well for me. Just another reminder to leave no retail stone unturned.

The catch? I found myself between two sizes. Size 6.5 was a dash tight everywhere, although my long toes had plenty of room. The size 7 was too big, even with an added insole. So I remembered something my Mother used to do when she wanted some of her shoes to fit a little looser all over. In fact, this is how she used to break in brand new ballet shoes when she was a dancing teen back in the ’50s. The trick is to wet your feet, put on the shoes and walk around in them for an hour or two. It’s a little squelch-y but you get used to it. Walk around at home, or take them out for a spin. Repeat the process a few times and you’ll find that the leather stretches over time and molds to the shape of your feet. 

I received the pumps last Friday morning. In the afternoon I tried the wet foot trick around the house for a couple of hours. I repeated the exercise on Saturday morning, even taking them out to run errands. Yup. I was walking around with damp feet in brand new shoes. It’s not that bad! The shoes dried by the evening, by which time they were less tight and more comfy.  So I wore them with hose and a skirt to a birthday party on Saturday night. I will repeat the process if they start to feel tight again. But so far, I’m sorted. 

This shoe stretching method does have its drawbacks. First, it is most effective when the leather is really soft. And second, because you need to put the shoes through their paces with wet feet, it eliminates the option of returning them. But if the method does not work, you can still have them professionally stretched at Nordstrom or a cobbler. I could have gone that route in the first place, but decided not to. I had a pair of expensive pumps overstretched and have had to subsequently pop in two insoles so that they stay on my feet. Plus they never looked the same again. 

Anyway, the wet foot trick might be worth a try from time to time when you just need a little more ease in the fit of your shoes.

A New Frock Gets Down to Business

This is the kind of outfit I might wear while shopping with an executive client who works in a business casual work environment. It’s relatively modest and conservative, modern classic, conventionally flattering, and professional. Thanks to the peplum and my current hairstyle I don’t think many people would describe the outfit as conservative, but it feels that way to me. That is by no means a bad thing. There is a time and place for this look in my style, and I enjoy sporting it as much as any other outfit. 

I wanted to add an easy pull-on-and-go frock to my wardrobe this year, and this is it. It’s the long sleeve crew neck tee dress from Kamalikulture that I mentioned a few days ago. Although I was not planning on a pattern, nor am I all that into formfitting frocks, I loved this dress because it has sleeves and length, and it fits really well. I have a hard time “filling out” dresses because I just don’t have bombshell real estate. So finding a knee-length dress that closely hugs my straight curves with a high neckline is a tall order. That’s why this comfortable and versatile darling instantly earned a spot in my wardrobe.

Jacket - Full

Jacket - Side

Jacket - Close

I put the dress through its paces and it worked well aside from two things. First, it’s not as warm as I expected. Second, wearing it with hose is not the best idea. The slippery jersey of the dress clung to my nude hose and made it creep up. This creeping is exacerbated by my fast walking style. I kept on straightening the skirt because it made me look unpolished. So while it’s doable to wear this frock with nude hose on cooler days, I’ll be more comfortable wearing it sans hose on warmer days. 

Jacket - Popped

Dress - Close

This is the little jacket that belongs to my power suit. It’s very structured and creates a tailored effect worn over the dress. I scrunch the sleeves to add skin to the outfit. Leaving the sleeves down over an already predominantly black dress makes for “too much black”. And now more than ever, I do not enjoy wearing outfits with too much black. I like the dress best on its own, but our weather is not there yet. Soon, I hope! 

Seated

My cream and black wedges work with all my dresses so it was an obvious choice to pair them with this one. Nude hose, retro specs and a bright red clutch finish off the look. I bought that clutch nine years ago and being vintage, it was already old. It still looks fresh to my eye. It’s so interesting how some items have a high longevity quotient, while others don’t. I can be done with something brand new in a season, yet still wear something so much older with a big smile several years on. 

Dress - Side

Dress - Front

I haven’t worn my silver watch and wedding ring for a while so I popped those on to match the hardware of the bag and shoes. I also added my triple strand of gumball pearls at some point in front of my mirror. They looked gorgeous with the ensemble, but felt so wrong for my minimal style. They came off immediately. You really do have to feel your way through your outfit creation process in order to hit that all important happiness-factor. When you are truly happy in your outfit, you can forget about what you are wearing for the day, feel fab, and get on with it.

Dress - Closer

Mural